I'm thinking my Type-R is a POS

[kefi]

I love performance Hondas, and I was so psyched to get this, and just having this issue in a critical component of the vehicle gives me no joy at the moment.

I can only imagine. This car is an absolute treat otherwise. Seriously - since the FK8 came out, we've only discovered a handful of common problems... and you hit the worst one.

I hope you figure this out and I can see you posting about the joys of this car one day.

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[Lust]

Definitely not my expertise here, but I removed my CDV because as I understand it, it can have an effect on your shifting abilities simply due to it shifting the timing of things just enough to where it can mess with your muscle memory.

For example, quickly letting off the clutch may not actually happen as quickly as you're used to simply because of the CDV, so you end up applying throttle too early.

I've been noticing more lately that my own problems with gear shifting may be more related to there being some 'play' at the very end of the clutch pedal being depressed though, which I think is related to the CMC?

The CDV in the slave just slows the return of the friction materials of the clutch. This helps prevent driveline shock from dumping the clutch too quickly. The modified CMC does have the damper deleted along with a larger feed hole. This will pass more fluid quicker than stock. This paired with the clutch adjustment helps release the clutch as quick as possible which is what you want. The lock out is probably caused by the gates not being lined up properly either by being lazy with the shifter or something wrong with the linkage. I was trying to figure out how he’s shifting since I’ve seen so many people shift in a diagonal line versus a zig zag like an old school gated shifter

 

[Steve_868]

Hello. I have ot read the full thread. I had issues with 5th to 4th downshift for 2 years. I replaced with fresh honda fluid and the issue was the same.
This spring, I was in your shoes - I would not put the car in 5th gear on track because I had too much anxiety wondering if the car would let me downshift.
I put the GM synchromesh friction modified fluid in and the problem disappeared. This was a recommendation based on forum members here.
As for the overheating, I am running stock and overheat. Now, I would do a cool down lap every other lap to manage this issue.
Hope that helps.

 

[BS1]

I had a 2018 CTR that overheated on the track...very frustrating for such a good track car. The stock wheels are a joke; they bent easily after a few miles on normal roads. Getting no help from Honda, I bought a set of 18" Titan7 T-S5s and mounted Pilot Sports. The result was tricky windup/release on turn-in that was apparenly due to the change in scrub radius of the new wheels (less offset than stock), as well as the greater tire aspect ratio, which shouldn't have that a big of an effect. Never had transmission issues, but I don't think I ever had to do any quick 5-4 downshifts. Refusing to waste money on dumb (and heavy) 20" wheels and tires, I sold the car and bought a used Sport Hatchback manual instead.

 

[REBELXSi]

Thirdly, the Type-R is supposed to have a better sound system...it disappoints on that as well. The Si sounds WAAAAAY better.

Ooof, that's gotta be bad because my Si's speakers are hot garbage.

 

[Cornercarver]

Only put 2,500 miles (thank you COVID) on my 2018 since buying it with 13,800 already on it. I have had just two instances of 1st to 2nd and no real lockouts. That said, I consciously shift more slowly and even double clutch sometimes which helps. I have had a weird time or three where the shifter bounced back into neutral when I was shifting, but figured I mistimed it. Or was that the dreaded lockout? I had a '17 Si before and I do remember it was generally fine, but you still could not rush the 1st to 2nd shift on that either. Sound system probably better in the SI. And I don't care.

 

[kefi]

I have had a weird time or three where the shifter bounced back into neutral when I was shifting, but figured I mistimed it.

This has also happened to me.. or something like it. I don't really know how to describe it - it's almost like I'm halfway engaged and then it goes back into neutral.

 

[tinyman392]

This has also happened to me.. or something like it. I don't really know how to describe it - it's almost like I'm halfway engaged and then it goes back into neutral.

I always thought this was the “pop out” portion of the 4th gear pop out. I had this during my first 10k miles. Went away though. All my tranny issues went away after 12-15k to be honest.

 

[kefi]

I always thought this was the “pop out” portion of the 4th gear pop out. I had this during my first 10k miles. Went away though. All my tranny issues went away after 12-15k to be honest.

Yeah, if I recall it was always in fourth gear. I could feel the synchros trying to mesh (or something) and the shifter would violently vibrate when I tried to accelerate. Spooky shit.

 

[NAV8M3]

I have a 2020 Type-R I picked up mid-June of this year (3/20 build on the vin tag so pre-covid car). The car currently has 346 miles (I have a short commute), but the kicker is this....the downshift from 5th to 4th locks out on a daily basis, to the point of absurdity. I've been driving manuals since I learned to drive and have owned manual TLs, Si's and S2000s, and none of them have ever exhibited this defect. In fact, they've been perfect. It is really annoying, especially when you want to have fun coming in hot on your highway exit.

But wait, there's more. On cold start from overnight, there's an annoying buzz when you press on the gas. It goes throughout the rpm range. It goes away after about 5-10 minutes driving. I have no idea what it is...but it makes my car sound like a POS, to be quite honest.

Thirdly, the Type-R is supposed to have a better sound system...it disappoints on that as well. The Si sounds WAAAAAY better.

I regret getting rid of my Si at this juncture for this thing...what a huge letdown. If anyone has any solutions, answers or ideas for the aforementioned, please let me know, I'd be happy to hear about it. Before you tell me to search, no....I don't have time, and would just appreciate some solid citizenry here.

where are you located?


if you (or anyone else experiencing similar issues) are in California, please send me a message to see if you may qualify for a lemon law claim. I am a licensed attorney in California and handle lemon law claims.

I had a similar manual transmission issue in my 2016 BMW 3 series and made a lemon law claim
had the car for 2 years 2 months and got almost all of my money back from BMW when it was repurchased

 

[tinyman392]

Yeah, if I recall it was always in fourth gear. I could feel the synchros trying to mesh (or something) and the shifter would violently vibrate when I tried to accelerate. Spooky shit.

Yeah, that’s the pop out. I’ve only had two or three. But all within the first 12k miles. None since (@44k now).

 

[Openmynd]

Is anyone missing the point that hard downshifting and hard shifting at all before the break in period is bad? Abuse will cause these lockout issues to appear sooner then later and your clutch might be gone before your first oil change. Also giving is gas when its cold and warming up doesnt sound like a good idea either and the “sound” is the least of your worries. Take care of the car and it will take care of you. Its a great platform, dont abuse it. No car is bulletproof especially something with that amount of power. Take your time with the break in period and you should extend the longevity of the car. Just my 2cents.

 

[NapalmEnema]

I am having the same problems you are. I dont have as many miles on it yet, but I an having an issue with the downshifting lockout. The 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 is notchy as hell too. I'm think to get the transmission fluid changed in a couple of miles.

Give it some time to break in bud a couple thousand - mine was quite tight when new but has really gotten perfect with a few miles on it. (at around 7k now it was feeling good around 3-4k.)

Honestly this is the nicest smoothest transmission I've had I love it and never experience lockouts and I hoon a ton in this thing.

 

[James3spearchucker]

Hello. I have ot read the full thread. I had issues with 5th to 4th downshift for 2 years. I replaced with fresh honda fluid and the issue was the same.
This spring, I was in your shoes - I would not put the car in 5th gear on track because I had too much anxiety wondering if the car would let me downshift.
I put the GM synchromesh friction modified fluid in and the problem disappeared. This was a recommendation based on forum members here.
As for the overheating, I am running stock and overheat. Now, I would do a cool down lap every other lap to manage this issue.
Hope that helps.

What exactly is overheating? I take it the engine? (insufficient cooling)If so there are new grills out for sale now letting in more air. Honda did put all these fake air vents so you could open one up and run your own oil cooler or tranny cooler.

 

[James3spearchucker]

I had a 2018 CTR that overheated on the track...very frustrating for such a good track car. The stock wheels are a joke; they bent easily after a few miles on normal roads. Getting no help from Honda, I bought a set of 18" Titan7 T-S5s and mounted Pilot Sports. The result was tricky windup/release on turn-in that was apparenly due to the change in scrub radius of the new wheels (less offset than stock), as well as the greater tire aspect ratio, which shouldn't have that a big of an effect. Never had transmission issues, but I don't think I ever had to do any quick 5-4 downshifts. Refusing to waste money on dumb (and heavy) 20" wheels and tires, I sold the car and bought a used Sport Hatchback manual instead.

Thats amazing that you downgraded from the R. I have a Sport HB and have modified a few things like adding type R seats. I wonder why you did not put 18's with the proper offset?

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