I snapped the bolt stud on the turbo charger when installing Turbo Blanket.

d15b7

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quick question for you guys - (firstly, my car is bone stock so i don't really have a dog in this fight). my first thought as an engineer would be that if I were going to remove my downpipe, and now that i know this is a very common failure - maybe instead of trying to unscrew the nut off that stud that we almost know for certain is going to fail? instead use a nut-cracker, or even a dremel with a small cutting blade to score the nut and thus split it off (and throw it away of course) and use a new nut when you put the new dp on?

just a thought!

PS i've done this when removing exhaust manifolds on old cars that had really rusty looking nuts; i PB blast the crap out of them and then use a nut cracker or score the nuts with my dremel and then they pop right off leaving the stud untouched
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Honda won't create a TSB. Technically, the downpipe isn't supposed to be removed so routinely. It isn't going to fail if left alone.
Removed ours once. Not sure that would be considered routine.....
 

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But, the issue with the studs snapping is not because of them being corroded in place. Soaking it 100x for a week isnā€™t going to change anything.
CRC freeze off is deigned specifically for rust/corrosion and works every time for me.. follow instructions on the can. Spray on stud for 30 seconds then tap with hammer or hard object to shock the rust or corrosion.
 

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2017 CTR PRL catless down pipe and front pipe installation was started and completed yesterday. While removing the nut from the top right stud of turbine housing the stud failed. Shocked, we began corrective action. After multiple different solution attempts the stud starts to spin and not two threads out.....................
SNAP.
Now we are left with a second failure that leaves the stud flush with turbine housing mating surface. Our only option now is to drill and tap. Several frustrating hours later we have a threaded bore that will accept a bolt. Smooth sailing from there to completion. Luckily, we have been through the school of hard knocks and know how to remove broken fasteners but the unexpectedness of such a horrible failure to occur on a brand new vehicle was shocking and disappointing to say the least.

Confused about what happened we were banging our heads against the wall that we had just snapped a stud on a 1770 mile car.... this was extremely suspect to me so I decided to look up if any others had similar issues. Sure enough our stud looked the exact same as OPfailure. I mean to the thread count at where it broke. To similar to be a coincidence.

This is definitely a design issue after closer inspection and verification it happens almost every time dp is removed from 10th gen civics of all trims.

We believe this problem is due to the fact that all bolts/studs on turbine housing to down pipe have open threaded bores that allow the fasteners to cool efficiently compared to the top right stud. The top right studs threaded bore terminates inside the turbine housing effectively creating a catastrophic design failure. The soft metal used for these fasteners combined with the locking mechanism of the nuts on the studs in no way helps this issue. We have heard the bottom left stud also fails but not as often as the top right. Honda needs to release a tech service bulletin (TSB) for replacing the studs with suitable bolts or studs made of a metal that can withstand the conditions created by the turbo on suspect fasteners whenever downpipe is removed. For us that enjoy modifying our vehicles I guess we have to find our own suitable studs (solution mentioned in members previous comments) or upgrade the turbo and the studs.

?

Happy Wrenching.

Kyle
DF955B48-471B-4637-AF38-39C87171B8B2.jpeg
If I were to go into my ziplock bag that has the broken stud + nut and take a picture, it would look exactly like that. Top right as well, if you saw my post from a couple of weeks ago in this thread too :(
 


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CRC freeze off is deigned specifically for rust/corrosion and works every time for me.. follow instructions on the can. Spray on stud for 30 seconds then tap with hammer or hard object to shock the rust or corrosion.
Thatā€™s great. Except rust/corrosion isnā€™t the issue here..

Iā€™m sitting here reading all these comments laughing. THEYā€™RE LOCKNUTS! Honda isnā€™t going to issue a TSB for something doing what itā€™s designed to do. The issue isnā€™t with the ā€œboreā€ being a blind hole. Itā€™s not corrosion. Theyā€™re not meant to be removed. Just lol.

If they break. Drill and tap it. Itā€™s not hard.
 

typeRkidd

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quick question for you guys - (firstly, my car is bone stock so i don't really have a dog in this fight). my first thought as an engineer would be that if I were going to remove my downpipe, and now that i know this is a very common failure - maybe instead of trying to unscrew the nut off that stud that we almost know for certain is going to fail? instead use a nut-cracker, or even a dremel with a small cutting blade to score the nut and thus split it off (and throw it away of course) and use a new nut when you put the new dp on?

just a thought!

PS i've done this when removing exhaust manifolds on old cars that had really rusty looking nuts; i PB blast the crap out of them and then use a nut cracker or score the nuts with my dremel and then they pop right off leaving the stud untouched

That's what I was referring to on one of my post to cut then split the bolt but since I removed my stud before when I first got my car at 800 miles I have 6200 now and the had to do the process again because of dealing with emission issues I soaked mines for 3 day straight
 

Patrick Bateman

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That's what I was referring to on one of my post to cut then split the bolt but since I removed my stud before when I first got my car at 800 miles I have 6200 now and the had to do the process again because of dealing with emission issues I soaked mines for 3 day straight
I swear some of you guys just donā€™t get it.

How do you figure youā€™re going to cut this flanged nut in a semi-confined space without either damaging the threads on the stud or gouging the shit out of the flange on the downpipe. If you donā€™t care about damaging the down pipe, you still canā€™t split/remove the nut without cutting it twice. As I said before, the nut is crimped every 120*. You do not have room to do this.

Inherent issue with cutting in a 90* corner with a circular disc..

Honda Civic 10th gen I snapped the bolt stud on the turbo charger when installing Turbo Blanket. A9A7D72F-A7C2-48EF-8B82-FF4B76251A74


If you can pull it off Iā€™ll eat crow, but trying/successfully cutting them takes 10x longer than just drilling tapping them. Just spend $30 on the right shit and be done with it.

I donā€™t know why anyone would reuse the same nuts. ESPECIALLY, if you have to take them off again. Get a normal nut and use a flat and lock washer. Or the titanium setup from Rampage.

Again, soaking these things for all of eternity is doing nothing. Itā€™s good practice to use a penetrant as a lubricant to prevent galling, but CORROSION IS NOT THE ISSUE.
 
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It shouldn't be removed in the first place is what I meant.
Lol , so when a 10th Gen civics cat goes bad in the future how is tech supposed to replace? If Honda didnā€™t need to remove something the wouldnā€™t use fasteners. And Iā€™m not sure who commented ā€œbecause it has a locknut that means it doesnā€™t come
offā€ ........ Iā€™m not going to argue online about locknuts so I will keep my mouth shut ?
I posted what I did so there is proper information about what is going on with our cars. I personally ordered quantity 8 rampage titanium hardware as soon as job was done. Just one more thing, whoever thinks itā€™s acceptable that this is happening to our cars is wrong. You should not have to drill and tap a stud on these low mileage cars and they were definitely made to be taken off as the catalytic converter is a consumable. Guess that was two things lol happy Sunday, go wrench.
Kyle
 
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I swear some of you guys just donā€™t get it.

How do you figure youā€™re going to cut this flanged nut in a semi-confined space without either damaging the threads on the stud or gouging the shit out of the flange on the downpipe. If you donā€™t care about damaging the down pipe, you still canā€™t split/remove the nut without cutting it twice. As I said before, the nut is crimped every 120*. You do not have room to do this.

Inherent issue with cutting in a 90* corner with a circular disc..

A9A7D72F-A7C2-48EF-8B82-FF4B76251A74.jpeg


If you can pull it off Iā€™ll eat crow, but trying/successfully cutting them takes 10x longer than just drilling tapping them. Just spend $30 on the right shit and be done with it.

I donā€™t know why anyone would reuse the same nuts. ESPECIALLY, if you have to take them off again. Get a normal nut and use a flat and lock washer. Or the titanium setup from Rampage.

Again, soaking these things for all of eternity is doing nothing. Itā€™s good practice to use a penetrant as a lubricant to prevent galling, but CORROSION IS NOT THE ISSUE.
I agree, there is no room to cut nuts out when down pipe is installed. However remember none of us are snapping these studs during installation or second time off(that I know) this is first removal these studs are snapping and more often than not itā€™s the top right stud usually happening on low mileage cars. Drilling and tapping is not an easy solution in my opinion on a c level job. I will be talking to my local Honda dealership and also the Honda engineers if it gets that far. If enough of us 10th gen owners put their pics and stories in this thread it WILL get to Honda and they WILL correct this issue. (Wishful thinking and fingers crossed) The issue here isnā€™t just one model, so far this is across the board turbo 10th gen civics have a failure on turbine to dp fasteners. If we had the dealerships install these parts there would already be a tsb due to so many occurrences.
Keep posting your pics and problems guys and gals.
happy wrenching
Kyle
 


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Lol , so when a 10th Gen civics cat goes bad in the future how is tech supposed to replace? If Honda didnā€™t need to remove something the wouldnā€™t use fasteners. And Iā€™m not sure who commented ā€œbecause it has a locknut that means it doesnā€™t come
offā€ ........ Iā€™m not going to argue online about locknuts so I will keep my mouth shut ?
I posted what I did so there is proper information about what is going on with our cars. I personally ordered quantity 8 rampage titanium hardware as soon as job was done. Just one more thing, whoever thinks itā€™s acceptable that this is happening to our cars is wrong. You should not have to drill and tap a stud on these low mileage cars and they were definitely made to be taken off as the catalytic converter is a consumable. Guess that was two things lol happy Sunday, go wrench.
Kyle
Itā€™s funny you think this is some isolated issue to the Honda Civic.
 
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Itā€™s funny you think this is some isolated issue to the Honda Civic.
I donā€™t. But I only care about my circle of influence. I own a 10th gen civic and this happened to me. I believe Honda needs to fix this problem. Anyone should be able to work on their vehicle without a catastrophic failure happening due to what the factory designed. I thought my dumbass snapped the stud at first. Iā€™ve had my share of snafus on vehicles due to my own ignorance. That is not the case here. This is happening to anyone removing the dp experienced or not.
And know that Iā€™m looking for it Iā€™m finding that this is happening on all turbo 10th gens regardless of model. If your not concerned about this issue please keep your comments to yourself, I am not here to get into arguments with fellow members. I am here to help the community of members who enjoy modifying their vehicles get a problem solved.
Happy Wrenching
Kyle
 

Patrick Bateman

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I donā€™t. But I only care about my circle of influence. I own a 10th gen civic and this happened to me. I believe Honda needs to fix this problem. Anyone should be able to work on their vehicle without a catastrophic failure happening due to what the factory designed. I thought my dumbass snapped the stud at first. Iā€™ve had my share of snafus on vehicles due to my own ignorance. That is not the case here. This is happening to anyone removing the dp experienced or not.
And know that Iā€™m looking for it Iā€™m finding that this is happening on all turbo 10th gens regardless of model. If your not concerned about this issue please keep your comments to yourself, I am not here to get into arguments with fellow members. I am here to help the community of members who enjoy modifying their vehicles get a problem solved.
Happy Wrenching
Kyle
You consider a broken stud to be a catastrophic failure?
Youā€™re not here to argue but have no problem calling other peopleā€™s input stupid?

How exactly have you helped? What useful
Information have you given?

Iā€™ll choose using my head and overcoming a minor problem to crying to my dealer about a broken stud.
 
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Civii

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I donā€™t. But I only care about my circle of influence. I own a 10th gen civic and this happened to me. I believe Honda needs to fix this problem. Anyone should be able to work on their vehicle without a catastrophic failure happening due to what the factory designed. I thought my dumbass snapped the stud at first. Iā€™ve had my share of snafus on vehicles due to my own ignorance. That is not the case here. This is happening to anyone removing the dp experienced or not.
And know that Iā€™m looking for it Iā€™m finding that this is happening on all turbo 10th gens regardless of model. If your not concerned about this issue please keep your comments to yourself, I am not here to get into arguments with fellow members. I am here to help the community of members who enjoy modifying their vehicles get a problem solved.
Happy Wrenching
Kyle
What are they supposed to fix? It is possible to remove the bolts without breaking anything. I did it the other day when installing a new downpipe. I'm not that experienced with stuff but with patience, research, and some tools it's completely possible and not difficult. I'm not trying to argue or be a dick but I don't see what Honda can "fix" given the factors the bolt and stud are exposed to daily while driving.

About 20 minutes before removing the bolts I soaked them with WD-40 Penetrating oil. I did it twice every 10 minutes. Then right before attempting to remove them I soaked them one more time and used a breaker bar (just a pipe) and held the wrench steady with one hand and pulled the bar with the other. I think you're more likely to break the stud if you bend the wrench while attempting to break it loose. You NEED to make sure you keep it straight and steady, don't bend it at all. It's common sense.
 
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You consider a broken stud to be a catastrophic failure?
Youā€™re not here to argue but have no problem calling other peopleā€™s input stupid?

How exactly have you helped? What useful
Information have you given?

Iā€™ll choose using my head and overcoming a minor problem to crying to my dealer about a broken stud.
Yes a broken stud is a catastrophic failure of a system. If whoever is doing job does not have the skill level to fix stud the vehicle will not be operable.
If I called anyoneā€™s opinion stupid I apologize, I did use that word and corrected it. I was still waking up lol.
I believe I am helping by documenting this problem and giving others instructions on how to document, pictures and story etc...
I understand what you mean by not ā€œcryingā€ to dealer but this issue unless fixed will cause problems over and over. For example, 10th gen owner decides to track vehicle, Wants to remove emissions system for track and reinstall for daily driving. During dp removal snaps stud, misses track day, orders new parts from Honda and reinstalls. Next track day comes around and issue reoccurs because owner used oem parts and Honda has not issued new part fix. Owner did the right thing ordering oem parts but there is obviously a design issue with so many occurrences. Personally I ordered rampage titanium stud kit to solve future occurrences of problem but with how many vehicles this is happening to Honda really needs to be aware of issue so they can update studs to stronger material. I am hopeful Honda will catch wind of this and apply solution but I am also preparing my own solution using titanium hardware because I will not count on Honda to solve this problem. Btw, PRL dp and fp combo sounds and performs fantastic with factory exhaust.
happy monday
Keep wrenching
Kyle
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