I snapped the bolt stud on the turbo charger when installing Turbo Blanket.

Patrick Bateman

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I got my turbo blanket on without removing the downpipe but have any try cut the bolts on the studs them self's ie dremel
You mean nuts? Why the hell would you do that?
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Patrick Bateman

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Well the bolts come out it's the two nuts that give the promble so I've seen
Okay? I still don’t understand why anyone would choose to cut them rather than attempting to remove them and....

A. The nuts come off without issues (like they did for me and many others)
B. The stud snaps and you’re left with exactly what you’d have if you cut them.
 
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typeRkidd

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Okay? I still don’t understand why anyone would choose to cut them rather than attempting to remove them and....

A. The nuts come off without issues (like they did for me and many others)
B. The stud snaps and you’re left with exactly what you’d have if you cut them.
I wasnt referring to cutting the entire nut and bolt there are 2 bolts that come out and the two studs with nuts that sized up I was saying cutting at a angle and just removing the nut part only leaving the stud in place
 

Patrick Bateman

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I wasnt referring to cutting the entire nut and bolt there are 2 bolts that come out and the two studs with nuts that sized up I was saying cutting at a angle and just removing the nut part only leaving the stud in place
Good luck with that.
 


CW20038TypeR

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If you are in SoCal hit up

Louis_fc3

On Instagram. He’s done a lot of these downpipe installs and have never snapped one. He just did mine.

He does the opposite actually, he puts a fan on it cool down your engine and car while he soaks it in PB blaster for a good 30-45 mins spraying it multiple times.

Then he uses breaker bar and finesses it. He’s not yanking and no impact guns. Just a nice swift downward pull and off the bolt goes. He’s done a lot and hasn’t had a snap so far.
 

aldksgo

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So just did this with a couple of buddies. What a mission.

Soaked the bolts for 2 hours with PB. Broke the seal and the nuts were coming off fine. The top right one however, once it got halfway there started to be done resistance and it felt like we were tightening it. Eventually got it off, and proceed with the rest of the downpipe install.

Putting the new downpipe on, 3/4 go on perfect. Top left, bottom left, bottom right. Now we're at the top right, and it goes on and gets tight again seemingly halfway on the stud and feels crazy tight.. then the bolt snapped and looked like OPs.

Hindsight is 20/20.. Should’ve never used that trouble nut as visually it looked like there were some issues with the thread on tiny area, should’ve used another 14mm that wasn’t reused from the DP to FP because PRL supplied their own in the kit..

Only thought about the extra 14 after the fact.. and the turbo had enough stud to get a bolt on for now. It’s pretty tight, and takes definite effort to come off, but any tighter never locks and probably just spins the stud. See pic below.

Went for a test drive when all said and done. From what we saw on first start, no leaks at Dp to fp. I was able to hit me normal boost and didn’t experience any boost leaks. Didn’t smell exhaust in the cabin but I can definitely smell the new pipe breaking in and see little bit of white smoke rising from under heatshield and at my exhaust, and maybe my ceramic coating as well.. but the snapped stud is bothering me.

If anyone more experienced can chime in.. will be an issue? This is just a few hours old so.. not sure what will happen. Is there something I should check in a datalog to see if this is causing issues?



Honda Civic 10th gen I snapped the bolt stud on the turbo charger when installing Turbo Blanket. 55768496-C684-4D8A-8CAF-1BC0D98DBC68
 
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fatherpain

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Sorry to hear you guys snapped one.. but at least you had enough stud left to get the DP secured and sealed for now..

I’d recommend replacing that stud for full engagement of that nut, so it doesn’t loosen on heat cycles and vibration, loosen and fall off.

I’ll be attempting a DP install soon. Plan is to soak with Kroil, (similar to PB blaster) use heat, then cool studs with an ice water spray, while turning the nuts. Once the nuts move, spray more kroil then take them off.

That said, don’t be surprised if I also report back with a broken stud..
 

aldksgo

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Yeah.. :(.
I sprayed very very generously, multiple times throughout the two hour span. The breaking of the nut went well, but that one I guess started to cross near the end and it was tainted from there. Really wish I had thought of the nuts from the DP to FP sides since PRL provided new bolt with washers, so didn’t have to reuse the nut. Hindsight..
 

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They’re locknuts. Notice how they’re not round in comparison to the one that comes off the lower flange. It’s crimped every 120*.

Honda Civic 10th gen I snapped the bolt stud on the turbo charger when installing Turbo Blanket. F86A7EFC-C099-4193-821E-6C3284B1F154


Soaking with PB Blaster or whatever penetrating oil is fine for preventing the nut from galling upon removal once it’s broken loose. But, the issue with the studs snapping is not because of them being corroded in place. Soaking it 100x for a week isn’t going to change anything.

Heating them up is also pointless. Heating them and cooling them is definitely pointless. If anything heating it till it’s cherry red is going to increase the likelihood it does break by weakening the stud.

Just don’t use an impact or jerk on it abruptly. It’s either going to break or it’s not. If it breaks be prepared with a 8.7mm drill bit and a starter and bottom tap. There’s more than enough room to drill out the stud re-tap/chase the threads with the turbo in place. Grind it flat and flush to the housing and center punch it as close to center as possible and start with a small bit till you get to the tap/drill side.

Honda Civic 10th gen I snapped the bolt stud on the turbo charger when installing Turbo Blanket. 41899C23-481D-4165-AF22-7ECEBF4998F8


It’s not a difficult problem to overcome. I think people are making a big deal out of nothing.
If you break the nut loose and it gives you issues while removing it, start turning it the other way and add some oil and work the thing back and forth till it’s removed.
 
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typeRkidd

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Sorry to hear you guys snapped one.. but at least you had enough stud left to get the DP secured and sealed for now..

I’d recommend replacing that stud for full engagement of that nut, so it doesn’t loosen on heat cycles and vibration, loosen and fall off.

I’ll be attempting a DP install soon. Plan is to soak with Kroil, (similar to PB blaster) use heat, then cool studs with an ice water spray, while turning the nuts. Once the nuts move, spray more kroil then take them off.

That said, don’t be surprised if I also report back with a broken stud..
let us know im going to start soaking them as of today and tommrow going to go ham ill use ever spray know to man i have to replce my down pipe back to stock because of emission
 

typeRkidd

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They’re locknuts. Notice how they’re not round in comparison to the one that comes off the lower flange. It’s crimped every 120*.

F86A7EFC-C099-4193-821E-6C3284B1F154.jpeg


Soaking with PB Blaster or whatever penetrating oil is fine for preventing the nut from galling upon removal once it’s broken loose. But, the issue with the studs snapping is not because of them being corroded in place. Soaking it 100x for a week isn’t going to change anything.

Heating them up is also pointless. Heating them and cooling them is definitely pointless. If anything heating it till it’s cherry red is going to increase the likelihood it does break by weakening the stud.

Just don’t use an impact or jerk on it abruptly. It’s either going to break or it’s not. If it breaks be prepared with a 8.7mm drill bit and a starter and bottom tap. There’s more than enough room to drill out the stud re-tap/chase the threads with the turbo in place. Grind it flat and flush to the housing and center punch it as close to center as possible and start with a small bit till you get to the tap/drill side.

41899C23-481D-4165-AF22-7ECEBF4998F8.jpeg


the size of that drill is it the same size as the bolt or just smaller where can i get the drill bits the taps and threaders i have
 

typeRkidd

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So I was able to remove all the 2 bolts and the two other nuts was wonder should Intel to remove the studs I ordered rampage new bolt kit
 
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2017 CTR PRL catless down pipe and front pipe installation was started and completed yesterday. While removing the nut from the top right stud of turbine housing the stud failed. Shocked, we began corrective action. After multiple different solution attempts the stud starts to spin and not two threads out.....................
SNAP.
Now we are left with a second failure that leaves the stud flush with turbine housing mating surface. Our only option now is to drill and tap. Several frustrating hours later we have a threaded bore that will accept a bolt. Smooth sailing from there to completion. Luckily, we have been through the school of hard knocks and know how to remove broken fasteners but the unexpectedness of such a horrible failure to occur on a brand new vehicle was shocking and disappointing to say the least.

Confused about what happened we were banging our heads against the wall that we had just snapped a stud on a 1770 mile car.... this was extremely suspect to me so I decided to look up if any others had similar issues. Sure enough our stud looked the exact same as OPfailure. I mean to the thread count at where it broke. To similar to be a coincidence.

This is definitely a design issue after closer inspection and verification it happens almost every time dp is removed from 10th gen civics of all trims.

We believe this problem is due to the fact that all bolts/studs on turbine housing to down pipe have open threaded bores that allow the fasteners to cool efficiently compared to the top right stud. The top right studs threaded bore terminates inside the turbine housing effectively creating a catastrophic design failure. The soft metal used for these fasteners combined with the locking mechanism of the nuts on the studs in no way helps this issue. We have heard the bottom left stud also fails but not as often as the top right. Honda needs to release a tech service bulletin (TSB) for replacing the studs with suitable bolts or studs made of a metal that can withstand the conditions created by the turbo on suspect fasteners whenever downpipe is removed. For us that enjoy modifying our vehicles I guess we have to find our own suitable studs (solution mentioned in members previous comments) or upgrade the turbo and the studs.

?

Happy Wrenching.

Kyle
Honda Civic 10th gen I snapped the bolt stud on the turbo charger when installing Turbo Blanket. DF955B48-471B-4637-AF38-39C87171B8B2
 

98-0425

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2017 CTR PRL catless down pipe and front pipe installation was started and completed yesterday. While removing the nut from the top right stud of turbine housing the stud failed. Shocked, we began corrective action. After multiple different solution attempts the stud starts to spin and not two threads out.....................
SNAP.
Now we are left with a second failure that leaves the stud flush with turbine housing mating surface. Our only option now is to drill and tap. Several frustrating hours later we have a threaded bore that will accept a bolt. Smooth sailing from there to completion. Luckily, we have been through the school of hard knocks and know how to remove broken fasteners but the unexpectedness of such a horrible failure to occur on a brand new vehicle was shocking and disappointing to say the least.

Confused about what happened we were banging our heads against the wall that we had just snapped a stud on a 1770 mile car.... this was extremely suspect to me so I decided to look up if any others had similar issues. Sure enough our stud looked the exact same as OPfailure. I mean to the thread count at where it broke. To similar to be a coincidence.

This is definitely a design issue after closer inspection and verification it happens almost every time dp is removed from 10th gen civics of all trims.

We believe this problem is due to the fact that all bolts/studs on turbine housing to down pipe have open threaded bores that allow the fasteners to cool efficiently compared to the top right stud. The top right studs threaded bore terminates inside the turbine housing effectively creating a catastrophic design failure. The soft metal used for these fasteners combined with the locking mechanism of the nuts on the studs in no way helps this issue. We have heard the bottom left stud also fails but not as often as the top right. Honda needs to release a tech service bulletin (TSB) for replacing the studs with suitable bolts or studs made of a metal that can withstand the conditions created by the turbo on suspect fasteners whenever downpipe is removed. For us that enjoy modifying our vehicles I guess we have to find our own suitable studs (solution mentioned in members previous comments) or upgrade the turbo and the studs.

?

Happy Wrenching.

Kyle
DF955B48-471B-4637-AF38-39C87171B8B2.jpeg
Honda won't create a TSB. Technically, the downpipe isn't supposed to be removed so routinely. It isn't going to fail if left alone.
 


 


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