I replaced my Pads and my rotors

Banshee

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I didn't do a full how to, as it is late but wanted to give a bit of info.

Rear Pads: Stock from Honda (Part Number tomorrow)
Front Pads: Hawk HPS (Same from Evo 8,9, 10 - HB453 F.585) Thanks @RatedR for the info!
Honda Civic 10th gen I replaced my Pads and my rotors 20170828_223216


Stock Rear Rotor: If you were wondering, rear rotors weigh about 10.4 lbs(on my bathroom scale)
Stock Front Rotor: However most cross drilled rotors are directional. They both seem to be for the left side. These weight about 24.8 lbs
Both front and rear Rotors, are held in by 1 screw. Either use in impact screwdriver, or drill that puppy out.
Honda Civic 10th gen I replaced my Pads and my rotors 20170828_203122
Also, the rear brakes, normally on Honda's you have to use the little Brake cube you use with the 3/8 drive wrench. Well, the rear piston is a little wider than the all of the 2 pronged sides(I believe it is about .98 inches). I had to dremel off two of the prongs, opposite of each other to get it to work, as the 4 prong side was wide enough. However, it does slip off, so you will have to take your time. Hopefully a better tool is made.
Honda Civic 10th gen I replaced my Pads and my rotors 20170828_173338
You will need a 7mm allen wrench(or Allen socket, if you prefer, but I only had the wrench) for the rear calipers. There is a plastic plug that comes off easily with your fingernail(to prevent it rusting as easy)
A 17mm socket removes the caliper holding bracket, if replacing the rotors.
The rear pads have arrows, on the back of the inside pad. Go with the arrow up.
Honda Civic 10th gen I replaced my Pads and my rotors 20170828_182152
Front Calipers, you need a punch, to punch out the holding pins from the outside, inward. An old 3/8" extension will work in a pinch.
You will need a 19mm socket to remove the front caliper holding bracket if you are replacing the Front rotors.
 
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Banshee

Banshee

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Oh, and after 3 hard HPDE days, the dust boots on both the front, and rear, have no cracks on them. Brake temps were very hot, and they survived. Granted, I don't have 10's of thousands of miles, and many, many track days, so that could change, as rubber eventually, deteriorates.
 

CincyTypeR

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Thanks for the info. Be sure to do a follow up review of the Hawk pads for everyone. Curious on how the dust, noise, etc is with them.
 

CTR1633FK2

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Oh, and after 3 hard HPDE days, the dust boots on both the front, and rear, have no cracks on them. Brake temps were very hot, and they survived. Granted, I don't have 10's of thousands of miles, and many, many track days, so that could change, as rubber eventually, deteriorates.
That's great, because those dust boots in my car were all melted after one track day. That is probably because I put copper grease on the pistons, to prevent brake squeal.
 
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Banshee

Banshee

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Can everybody else look at your front brake rotors, and see if they are the right side rotors (start from the inside to the outside) sweeping left, or sweeping right?
The picture of the rotors above, show the correct left (driver) side rotors.
 


CTR1633FK2

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The cooling vanes inside the rotor look non-directional to me. I don't think that the orientation of the holes matters that much.
 

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Can everybody else look at your front brake rotors, and see if they are the right side rotors (start from the inside to the outside) sweeping left, or sweeping right?
The picture of the rotors above, show the correct left (driver) side rotors.
The cooling vanes inside the rotor look non-directional to me. I don't think that the orientation of the holes matters that much.
I also agree that it looks like the cooling vanes in th center seem non-directional but it's too tight to see in there with the wheel on. But feeling with my finger they seem straight up and down. As far as the holes direction it doesn't seem to matter. On the LT side trailing "tail" of the holes is point back towards the rear of the car while the RT side points the opposite direction towards the front. See pics...

Honda Civic 10th gen I replaced my Pads and my rotors IMG_6570.JPG


Honda Civic 10th gen I replaced my Pads and my rotors IMG_6574.JPG
 

17CivicTypeR_Brian

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Sorry - once again, what brake fluid did you go with? Is it a different color than stock? (can you tell when you've fully flushed it?)
 
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Banshee

Banshee

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I use Prospeed 683. It is light amber in color. Fully Flushed it on 7 AUG 17. Bled just the fluid in the calipers yesterday.
 

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I switched to the Hawk HPS pads a few weeks ago. No noise. Amount of brake dust is normal. Running your finger across the wheel will get it dirty but not really visible on black wheels – unlike the thick brown powder coat from OEM brakes.

How is the grease supposed to be applied with the Brembo calipers? I followed the directions on the box from Hawk and coated all surfaces except the disc. But I have seen it done differently here where grease is only applied to the edges.
 


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You don't need that much grease. It will dampen the noise a bit, but it will also collect dust. A thin layer on the edges plus a thin layer on the contact patch between pad and pistons should be ok.
 

17CivicTypeR_Brian

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I use Prospeed 683. It is light amber in color. Fully Flushed it on 7 AUG 17. Bled just the fluid in the calipers yesterday.
Dig it. Thanks!
Is there any reason this isn't suitable for every day street use? I've always just been about DOT3 but now that I have a legit brake setup, I'm thinking I need to get edumicated.
 

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Does the CTR have the electronic parking brake like the other Civics? If so was there anything special required for disabling/resetting the EPB?
 
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Banshee

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Nothing special that I noticed.. I did turn off the brake before I worked on them though
 

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I can confirm there is only one part number for the CTR front rotors. So no matter left side or right side, same rotor is used.
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