How To Change The Oil In Your 10th Gen Honda Civic

BarracksSi

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I found that the old oil drains faster and more thoroughly if I remove the filler cap first.
That's such a great idea. I would've never thought of it, but it totally makes sense.

Side note: Do you guys prefer beam-type torque wrenches, too?

When I stopped by the base shop and asked for a torque wrench to check my wheels, they gave me a click-type. After not being able to make it "click" at 80 ft-lbs, I tested it at its lowest setting, and it still wouldn't click -- it was broken. I handed it back and they gave me a beam-type, which showed me that my wheel nuts were already at 100 ft-lbs.
:doh:

Beam-type torque wrenches FTW. Sometimes simpler is better.
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Rickmeister 48

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That's such a great idea. I would've never thought of it, but it totally makes sense.

Side note: Do you guys prefer beam-type torque wrenches, too?

When I stopped by the base shop and asked for a torque wrench to check my wheels, they gave me a click-type. After not being able to make it "click" at 80 ft-lbs, I tested it at its lowest setting, and it still wouldn't click -- it was broken. I handed it back and they gave me a beam-type, which showed me that my wheel nuts were already at 100 ft-lbs.
:doh:

Beam-type torque wrenches FTW. Sometimes simpler is better.
I've never used a beam type. Harbor freight has these things on sale for ridiculous prices all the time,so I picked up one. I have a kobalt one I use for my main stuff and the harbor freight one for big heavy stuff as it goes a bit higher,but it seems calibrated right with the lovely and both have lifetime warranty so if they ever get out of whack,ill just get a new one for free.
If you just need one for an occasional use, you can rent them like you did, but I was pretty much replacing everything from the suspension to the timing belt,etc, so they are well worth the cash if you do a lot of work.
One thing people don't understand is that you can still break a bolt off trying to get it to the correct torque. If its an old bolt,they stretch and get weak after so much stress. Sorry for the rant,lol
 

Type Rocket

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Crush washers are not a "should", they need to be replaced every time. They are designed to "crush" one time and thereby create a perfect seal while protecting the threads of the oil pan while they compress. Rounding off a drain plug is nothing compared to stripping the threads on an aluminum oil pan. ~40 cents is not much to spend for the added protection to the oil pan threads IMO, and like charleswrivers mentioned, buy a bunch at a time online with a half dozen Honda filters (Majestic or other) and you'll be good to go. Side note, the first time you take your filter off you will definitely need a filter wrench. Not sure why Honda cranks them down so tight at the factory, but they are definitely "stupid" tight.
 
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charleswrivers

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Crush washers are not a "should", they need to be replaced every time. They are designed to "crush" one time and thereby create a perfect seal while protecting the threads of the oil pan while they compress. Rounding off a drain plug is nothing compared to stripping the threads on an aluminum oil pan. ~40 cents is not much to spend for the added protection to the oil pan threads IMO, and like charleswrivers mentioned, buy a bunch at a time online with a half dozen Honda filters (Majestic or other) and you'll be good to go. Side note, the first time you take your filter off you will definitely need a filter wrench. Not sure why Honda cranks them down so tight at the factory, but they are definitely "stupid" tight.
Yeah... well put. That's where you have to put excessive torque to create a good seal when you reuse them. Using a fresh one and just snug it down hand tight? No leaks. Tighten as required? You're good to go. They really do a good job.

I think I have enough for another 10-15 years. I'll chock up not using them before on ignorance/laziness. I don't plan on going without them in the future.
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