HOW TO: Boomba Rear Motor Mount Civic Si 2017+

[edgeautosport.com]

This is a pretty simple install that can be done on any flat surface if you have a jack and 2 jack stands or on a lift. You're getting under the car so as always, safety first! Make sure the car is clearly supported by some quality jack stands rated to hold the weight.

Tools Needed:

• Flathead screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Socket Wrench
• 10 mm Socket
• 17 mm Socket
• 19 mm Socket
• 17 mm Wrench
• 19 mm Wrench
• Rubber Mallet (you might not need this but it helped us get the mount in place without damaging it)

Step 1: REMOVE UNDER TRAYS

There are 6 quarter turn fasteners and 2 phillips style screws holding the metal part of the undertray on. Remove all those and remove the metal tray.

Remove only the back half of the plastic undertray to access the mount's rear bolt. There are 2 plastic clips on the sides, 2 plastic clips underneath, 4 10mm bolts on the very back, and 1 10mm bolt right by the mount. These should all be located from the rear engine mount going towards the back of the car. You don't need to remove anything on the front half. The back half will hang down slightly while you're working.

​

Step 2: REMOVE MOTOR MOUNT

Using the 17mm socket, remove the bolt going through the subframe.

Using the 19mm socket, remove the front bolt on the black bracket attached to the transmission.

Using the 19mm wrench, remove the front bolt going through the motor mount.

You'll have to wiggle the engine mount out of there but it should come out with a little bit of work.

Step 3: PUT IN NEW MOUNT

First, make sure you put the bolt attaching the bracket back in and tighten it. Removing that bolt only allowed a little extra clearance to remove the OEM mount.

Put the front bolt through the mount only until it reaches the other end of the pin in the bushing. This makes it easier to push the mount up without having to struggle to get the bolt in after. The bolt won't be able to go in after the mount because of the exhaust pipe.

Insert the new mount with the front bolt already in. Boomba conveniently engraved the direction of the mount so you don't need to think very hard! If you can't seem to get the mount to go in, try using a rubber mallet to force it in. It's a tight squeeze but it'll go in.

Fasten the 2 bolts attaching the mount to the car and you're done! We didn't look up torque values but 40-50 ft lbs is about normal for this sort of thing. Just make sure they are pretty snug, especially if you're using a shorter wrench.

Step 4: REATTACH BOTH UNDER TRAYS

Reattach the back half of the plastic undertray and then the metal tray using the same fasteners you took off! You're done!

 

[5th 3l3ment]

This is a pretty simple install that can be done on any flat surface if you have a jack and 2 jack stands or on a lift. You're getting under the car so as always, safety first! Make sure the car is clearly supported by some quality jack stands rated to hold the weight.

Tools Needed:

• Flathead screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Socket Wrench
• 10 mm Socket
• 17 mm Socket
• 19 mm Socket
• 17 mm Wrench
• 19 mm Wrench
• Rubber Mallet (you might not need this but it helped us get the mount in place without damaging it)

Step 1: REMOVE UNDER TRAYS

There are 6 quarter turn fasteners and 2 phillips style screws holding the metal part of the undertray on. Remove all those and remove the metal tray.

Remove only the back half of the plastic undertray to access the mount's rear bolt. There are 2 plastic clips on the sides, 2 plastic clips underneath, 4 10mm bolts on the very back, and 1 10mm bolt right by the mount. These should all be located from the rear engine mount going towards the back of the car. You don't need to remove anything on the front half. The back half will hang down slightly while you're working.

​

Step 2: REMOVE MOTOR MOUNT

Using the 17mm socket, remove the bolt going through the subframe.

Using the 19mm socket, remove the front bolt on the black bracket attached to the transmission.

Using the 19mm wrench, remove the front bolt going through the motor mount.

You'll have to wiggle the engine mount out of there but it should come out with a little bit of work.

Step 3: PUT IN NEW MOUNT

First, make sure you put the bolt attaching the bracket back in and tighten it. Removing that bolt only allowed a little extra clearance to remove the OEM mount.

Put the front bolt through the mount only until it reaches the other end of the pin in the bushing. This makes it easier to push the mount up without having to struggle to get the bolt in after. The bolt won't be able to go in after the mount because of the exhaust pipe.

Insert the new mount with the front bolt already in. Boomba conveniently engraved the direction of the mount so you don't need to think very hard! If you can't seem to get the mount to go in, try using a rubber mallet to force it in. It's a tight squeeze but it'll go in.

Fasten the 2 bolts attaching the mount to the car and you're done! We didn't look up torque values but 40-50 ft lbs is about normal for this sort of thing. Just make sure they are pretty snug, especially if you're using a shorter wrench.

Step 4: REATTACH BOTH UNDER TRAYS

Reattach the back half of the plastic undertray and then the metal tray using the same fasteners you took off! You're done!

Thanks for the detailed instructions. Can’t wait to order receive and replace my oem one. I have some questions. How will this improve my ride compared to others out here selling upgrades for the xgen?
Also I am riding on oem suspension with minor upgrades such as fr adjustable endlinks rear 18 Accord endlinks paired up to Megan racing rear sway bar how will these be useful added to the above upgrades? Thanks in advanced

 

[5th 3l3ment]

Thanks for the detailed instructions. Can’t wait to order receive and replace my oem one. I have some questions. How will this improve my ride compared to others out here selling upgrades for the xgen?
Also I am riding on oem suspension with minor upgrades such as fr adjustable endlinks rear 18 Accord endlinks paired up to Megan racing rear sway bar how will these be useful added to the above upgrades? Thanks in advanced

Is there any flex when shifting and how does it rate/compare between Bomba , Hasport, & Torque solutions?

 

[5th 3l3ment]

Is there any flex when shifting and how does it rate/compare between Bomba , Hasport, & Torque solutions?

Is there any flex when shifting and how does it rate/compare between Boomba , Hasport, & Torque solutions?

 

[edgeautosport.com]

I wouldn't say it changes the ride. It prevents the engine from moving forward and back during gear changes, launch, and wide open throttle. We haven't tried all of them but the Boomba definitely comes with a lot of vibration when you're getting going from a stop and at lower rpms. We have the Perrin insert in right now and that's much more civil.

 

[5th 3l3ment]

I wouldn't say it changes the ride. It prevents the engine from moving forward and back during gear changes, launch, and wide open throttle. We haven't tried all of them but the Boomba definitely comes with a lot of vibration when you're getting going from a stop and at lower rpms. We have the Perrin insert in right now and that's much more civil.

This is a quote from precision works: Features:
-Made out of Lightweight 6061-T6 Billet Aluminum
-70A Duro Rating Urethane Bushings
-Eliminates Wheel Hop / Traction Loss
-Improved Launch Times. 70a is compared to the soles of a sneaker is that to much for these 1.5 being that duro rating between 60/80 that would make it the best fit for daily driving? I am asking because Im debating between using 3m window sealer which is messy rated at 60 duro Rating or just get the upgrade and call it a day which would you suggest and why?

 

[edgeautosport.com]

This is a quote from precision works: Features:
-Made out of Lightweight 6061-T6 Billet Aluminum
-70A Duro Rating Urethane Bushings
-Eliminates Wheel Hop / Traction Loss
-Improved Launch Times. 70a is compared to the soles of a sneaker is that to much for these 1.5 being that duro rating between 60/80 that would make it the best fit for daily driving? I am asking because Im debating between using 3m window sealer which is messy rated at 60 duro Rating or just get the upgrade and call it a day which would you suggest and why?

I don't have experience with the stiffness of shoe soles or using window sealer for motor mounts. But I do have actual experience with the Boomba mount and Perrin insert. If you don't like vibes, I suggest staying away from the Boomba. If you want a mild upgrade, I'd do the insert. If you want something in the middle that is really strong and doesn't have insane vibrations, Hasport will probably land right in the middle there, although I don't have actual experience with that one yet. We will soon though.

 

[5th 3l3ment]

i went with the Hasport version 70A works as it should easy to install the videos on YouTube don’t do the install justice i was done in under 25 min in my drive way while laying on my back. Week 1 of break in so far aprox 20-30 miles on it smooth shifts smooth no more engine trying to out run the cart. Uniform shifts even when down shifting. The only issue is when initially shifting into 1st you get a lot of engine drone noise after that smooth as butter

 

[5th 3l3ment]

i went with the Hasport version 70A works as it should easy to install the videos on YouTube don’t do the install justice i was done in under 25 min in my drive way while laying on my back. Week 1 of break in so far aprox 20-30 miles on it smooth shifts smooth no more engine trying to out run the cart. Uniform shifts even when down shifting. The only issue is when initially shifting into 1st you get a lot of engine drone noise after that smooth as butter

This is the Hasport no name brand twin so far so good no issues what so ever knocking on wood.

 

[saiko21]

can we remove the 19 mm bolt with socket and wrench. I read somewhere on this forum that the down pipe will come in the way and cannot access the bolt with normal ratchet

 

[icemansi]

This is a pretty simple install that can be done on any flat surface if you have a jack and 2 jack stands or on a lift. You're getting under the car so as always, safety first! Make sure the car is clearly supported by some quality jack stands rated to hold the weight.

Tools Needed:

• Flathead screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Socket Wrench
• 10 mm Socket
• 17 mm Socket
• 19 mm Socket
• 17 mm Wrench
• 19 mm Wrench
• Rubber Mallet (you might not need this but it helped us get the mount in place without damaging it)

Step 1: REMOVE UNDER TRAYS

There are 6 quarter turn fasteners and 2 phillips style screws holding the metal part of the undertray on. Remove all those and remove the metal tray.

Remove only the back half of the plastic undertray to access the mount's rear bolt. There are 2 plastic clips on the sides, 2 plastic clips underneath, 4 10mm bolts on the very back, and 1 10mm bolt right by the mount. These should all be located from the rear engine mount going towards the back of the car. You don't need to remove anything on the front half. The back half will hang down slightly while you're working.

​

Step 2: REMOVE MOTOR MOUNT

Using the 17mm socket, remove the bolt going through the subframe.

Using the 19mm socket, remove the front bolt on the black bracket attached to the transmission.

Using the 19mm wrench, remove the front bolt going through the motor mount.

You'll have to wiggle the engine mount out of there but it should come out with a little bit of work.

Step 3: PUT IN NEW MOUNT

First, make sure you put the bolt attaching the bracket back in and tighten it. Removing that bolt only allowed a little extra clearance to remove the OEM mount.

Put the front bolt through the mount only until it reaches the other end of the pin in the bushing. This makes it easier to push the mount up without having to struggle to get the bolt in after. The bolt won't be able to go in after the mount because of the exhaust pipe.

Insert the new mount with the front bolt already in. Boomba conveniently engraved the direction of the mount so you don't need to think very hard! If you can't seem to get the mount to go in, try using a rubber mallet to force it in. It's a tight squeeze but it'll go in.

Fasten the 2 bolts attaching the mount to the car and you're done! We didn't look up torque values but 40-50 ft lbs is about normal for this sort of thing. Just make sure they are pretty snug, especially if you're using a shorter wrench.

Step 4: REATTACH BOTH UNDER TRAYS

Reattach the back half of the plastic undertray and then the metal tray using the same fasteners you took off! You're done!

This is awesome step by step