How to Adjust Front Camber on a Tenth Gen Civic

360glitch

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From what I can tell this is not common knowledge and my local alignment shop (not a Honda dealer) certainly had no idea how to do it so I thought I would share my findings. This is NOT a guide on how to align your vehicle (special equipment is required), simply how to adjust the front camber. Please note that if you adjust your front camber you can expect your toe to change and very likely be out of spec. This is not something that should be done without a professional alignment immediately following. Now, to the nuts and bolts of things:

Ever wonder why there is a fourth stud sticking out of the top of your strut tower, without a nut on it? This is a "guide pin" that is only there for the purpose of vehicle assembly. In order to adjust your front camber, you must first remove it.

guidepinhole.png

If you have the screw type, Honda instructs you to place a few suitably sized washers around it and a hex nut on top. Tighten the nut with whatever tool you have handy (I prefer an electric impact driver) and it will pop out. If your guide pin is the "hex type", Honda instructs you to use a wrench that fits over the pin to rock it back and forth until it pops out. This part is no longer needed after vehicle assembly and can be discarded. This weight reduction will surely drop your 1/4 mile time by at least a tenth.

Once the guide pin is out, loose the three flange nuts. If your car is on the ground, you will find that the strut immediately slides into the inward position, which gives you the maximum negative camber obtainable with factory equipment. To be honest with you I am not sure how much adjustment this offers. The manual from Honda specifics " +-19' ". That certainly cannot be 19 degrees, perhaps 0.19 degrees? I'm hoping for more than that, we'll see. My next trip is back to the alignment shop to have it fine tuned. I will update then.

Here is a photo showing it all taken part:

disassembled.jpg

And one after re-assembly:

backtogether.jpg

I will also attach a copy of the alignment procedures straight from Honda, originally posted by member @ayau.

Hopefully this proves helpful to someone.





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360glitch

360glitch

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Here is the part number to the sticker that covers the hole:

QTY: (2)
91607-T0T-000

49a7a77e-59a5-4bca-bb12-4376b9b555be-jpeg.jpg

img_5880-png.png
These are about $1 each so be ready to re-finance your car in order to purchase them. :D
 

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Mikex18

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So yo thread a nut on it and turn it clock wise?
 

Trey

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So yo thread a nut on it and turn it clock wise?
It wasn't that easy for me. I used a few washers and a nut thinking it would pull the stud out but it didn't. I had to tug and pull as well to get it to free up. Nothing major but not what I expected.
 

Mikex18

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It wasn't that easy for me. I used a few washers and a nut thinking it would pull the stud out but it didn't. I had to tug and pull as well to get it to free up. Nothing major but not what I expected.
So you put washer so the nut cant go further than the threaded part?
 
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So you put washer so the nut cant go further than the threaded part?
You want the washers to be a little above the threaded section.
 

Mikex18

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Thatss perfect guyss

Thanks alot!! I will do this when i get my new wheels, i know i wont get -2° of this..but it will help!
 

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After doing this, when you take it to an alignment shop. Do you tell them to leave the camber spec and only fix the toe and caster?
 

werdna

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Also anyone find out how much negative camber this provides?
 
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werdna

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So, I tried doing this without any washer and now the bolt is stuck on the loose nut.. Bad decision on my part.
 
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So, I tried doing this without any washer and now the bolt is stuck on the loose nut.. Bad decision on my part.
Sounds like you are going to have to get up under the nut to try to pry/pop it out. Try to put something between your prying tool and the painted surface to protect it from scratches.
 

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