How much HP am I running on my SI?

What should I buy for my car next?


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Chilidog

Chilidog

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I think Si's running MAP 3 with an intake, intercooler, and full exhaust should make about 250 wheel and probably 280+ torque. Does that sound about right?
I refuse to get out of my stock exhaust — not only do I I LOVE the HDMI exhaust tip, I can’t go 3” without getting a “noisy” exhaust — which I hate. I like a quiet exhaust
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curlichfc1

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I think Si's running MAP 3 with an intake, intercooler, and full exhaust should make about 250 wheel and probably 280+ torque. Does that sound about right?
if we are talking about the tsp1 or phearable 1.5 not their race versions you’re on the money with torque but probably around 230-240whp with bolts ons.
 

curlichfc1

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I refuse to get out of my stock exhaust — not only do I I LOVE the HDMI exhaust tip, I can’t go 3” without getting a “noisy” exhaust — which I hate. I like a quiet exhaust
Look into the new high volume downpipe my si is at the shop right now getting it installed supposed to be way less drone then a catted or catless and gives you the performance benefit, I’m not sure how restrictive the exhaust is but the cat definitely has its restrictions haha
 

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if we are talking about the tsp1 or phearable 1.5 not their race versions you’re on the money with torque but probably around 230-240whp with bolts ons.
And Vega's Phearable 1.5R saw 249/302 on a stock Si on their dyno (26 psi). YMMV.
 

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I think Si's running MAP 3 with an intake, intercooler, and full exhaust should make about 250 wheel and probably 280+ torque. Does that sound about right?
My first guess for my TSP stage 1 tuned Si with a PRL race cobra and rv6 catless downpipe (stock front pipe) was 260 whp and 300 wtq. I now learned that that was a very optimistic number, but one can dream. I now estimate 240-245 whp and right around 280 wtq. I found that kind of weird at first because TSP stage 1 is rated at 237 whp and 279 wtq, but now that I’ve driven the car a bit I think the bolt ons really only add power to the low and mid range and not too much in the top end.
 


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Chilidog

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My first guess for my TSP stage 1 tuned Si with a PRL race cobra and rv6 catless downpipe (stock front pipe) was 260 whp and 300 wtq. I now learned that that was a very optimistic number, but one can dream. I now estimate 240-245 whp and right around 280 wtq. I found that kind of weird at first because TSP stage 1 is rated at 237 whp and 279 wtq, but now that I’ve driven the car a bit I think the bolt ons really only add power to the low and mid range and not too much in the top end.
So why are there such major performance difference on different dyno’s? Which is most accurate? Dyno jet?
 

curlichfc1

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And Vega's Phearable 1.5R saw 249/302 on a stock Si on their dyno (26 psi). YMMV.
Yea the race option
And Vega's Phearable 1.5R saw 249/302 on a stock Si on their dyno (26 psi). YMMV.
yea the race version both tsp and phearable like a 15whp bump give or take from their original tune, I like how both have their own characteristics tsp pull hard in lower rpms and phearable rips at high rpms, I haven’t really seen people compare the tsp2 or phearable2.5 tune anyone know how takes the cake their?
 

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Guys remember that bolt ons have the potential for producing more power but not necessarily all that much more on an OTS tune. Once you add full bolt ons and you really want to dial in a tune, custom is the way to go 100%.
 
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gtman

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So why are there such major performance difference on different dyno’s? Which is most accurate? Dyno jet?
Dynos are just a tool. You can't really compare. Different dynos, different cars, different day, different temps and humidity etc... all are factors. I do know that Dynapack tends to read a bit higher than others.
 
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Chilidog

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Dynos are just a tool. You can't really compare. Different dynos, different cars, different day, different temps and humidity etc... all are factors. I do know that Dynapack tends to read a bit higher than others.
so— what are your thoughts when phearable 1.5r states that it dyno’s 248whp and 302tq bone stock?? —I’ve got a few bolt ones and still have people telling me that I’m still only pushing 235-240 max. I live I’m nebraska — it’s 42 degrees — 42% humidity — 1000ft above sea level
 


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so— what are your thoughts when phearable 1.5r states that it dyno’s 248whp and 302tq bone stock?? —I’ve got a few bolt ones and still have people telling me that I’m still only pushing 235-240 max. I live I’m nebraska — it’s 42 degrees — 42% humidity — 1000ft above sea level
I’d say that’s probably true, and anything higher would slip the clutch.
 

gtman

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Here's the thing. Stop getting hung up on dyno numbers. I've learned over the years the most important thing is how things feel from behind the wheel, not looking at a dyno sheet. If you read my earlier post you aren't going to get much more from bolt ons on an OTS tune. And dyno numbers as I posted, depend on many factors.
 
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curlichfc1

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so— what are your thoughts when phearable 1.5r states that it dyno’s 248whp and 302tq bone stock?? —I’ve got a few bolt ones and still have people telling me that I’m still only pushing 235-240 max. I live I’m nebraska — it’s 42 degrees — 42% humidity — 1000ft above sea level
your probably on the money with what they claim, just because the tune is compatible with bolt ons doesn’t mean the bolt ons are being used to their full potential that’s why custom tunes are recommended after adding bolt ons, I think they only two that would make any difference on an ots is an intake and downpipe and even then the change in power isn’t noticeable enough to gain anything other then better spool time and what gtman was saying dyno’s are just measuring tool and the final result can vary depending on countless factors the day it’s tuned.
 

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for those who knows how to log then extract the info needed can try to use virtual dyno for a very rough guesstimate especially those who do not have access to an actual dyno.

Some dynos reads higher some lower, ALWAYS look at the whole chart not just focusing on the numbers alone & best it is compared on the same dyno being used.
 

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shit man — what tube did you have all those problems?! How do I avoid all that?
I was on phearable 1.5 up until 17k. great tune, i just beat the shit out of my car. i highly doubt you have anything to worry about. i push my car hard and that means sometimes things will break but as long as you understand what pushing your car to its limits will bring you, nothing to worry about.

The head lifted because i would go for top speed runs. the clutch burnt up because I would speed shift, and i did a decent amount of digs, and countless rolls. also i learned manual on this car so that factors in too. i ran map 2 most of the time, and i'd pop into map 3 for races. Once i got my summer tires is when the clutch started slipping more because i'd do a pull at least once a day.
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