How do you rate the available Type-R intakes?

tyebo5

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Yeah, I have both Injen and PRL. I use the Injen during the winter season and the PRL in the summer due to heat soak. I just can't let go of the Injen the sound it makes is just too damn good.
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Yeah, I have both Injen and PRL. I use the Injen during the winter season and the PRL in the summer due to heat soak. I just can't let go of the Injen the sound it makes is just too damn good.
haha i do agree. The sound was really good. All the other intakes muffles the turbo spool noise unlike the injen which was LOUD during spool and on let off lol.
We usually don't really have a "winter" here and i was not happy with how the fuel trims and IATs were (we have a lot of stop and go here) after i looked back at my logs so i ultimately decided to let it go.
I did have one of the first ones they made though so they might've fixed the fuel trim issue.
 

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Florence_NC

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How's this for sound? A small teaser video of our upcoming intake system for the FK8 Civic Type-R.

Can you tell us what makes this intake any better, from a performance/power standing, than anything else on the market? I could care less about sound, if it doesn't make more power, then what is the point?

So far, the OEM air box (and the OEM exhaust as well) seem to be pretty decent pieces. I can't see that any of the aftermarket air box solutions really accomplish much of anything on a dyno that can't be had with a K&N filter in the OEM box. Maybe the Eventuri has an advantage due to the additional air inlet, but even that has not been proven to me with dyno numbers collected in a proper scientific manner to actually demonstrate it. I just don't see anything new or innovative on your new box. Certainly nothing different from current offerings, and none of them have shown any real gains.

So what is the sales pitch? What am I not seeing? Why should we buy it? It will take more than a cell phone/GoPro video attempting to demonstrate loudness to get my money.
 

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Can you tell us what makes this intake any better, from a performance/power standing, than anything else on the market? I could care less about sound, if it doesn't make more power, then what is the point?

So far, the OEM air box (and the OEM exhaust as well) seem to be pretty decent pieces. I can't see that any of the aftermarket air box solutions really accomplish much of anything on a dyno that can't be had with a K&N filter in the OEM box. Maybe the Eventuri has an advantage due to the additional air inlet, but even that has not been proven to me with dyno numbers collected in a proper scientific manner to actually demonstrate it. I just don't see anything new or innovative on your new box. Certainly nothing different from current offerings, and none of them have shown any real gains.

So what is the sales pitch? What am I not seeing? Why should we buy it? It will take more than a cell phone/GoPro video attempting to demonstrate loudness to get my money.
Sure, this is all information we've covered in our High Volume Intake thread here.
Part 2 of 2 Post:

We managed to install our prototype intake system on the shop R to test fitment. After marking sure everything met our expectations, we tossed our car on the dyno to see if this intake system performed as well as it looks. Let's take a look at what we experienced! :thumbsup:

Car Specifics:
2017 Honda Civic Type-R (93 Octane)
@KTuner
PRL Motorsports Prototype High Volume Intake System
PRL Motorsports Intercooler Upgrade
PRL Motorsports Race Downpipe
PRL Motorsports Front Pipe
GReddy Supreme Exhaust System

All testing was performed on the same day with a rather mild 55 degree Fahrenheit day and moderate humidity. We started all single dyno pulls at 174 degrees, while continuous (back-to-back) dyno pulls start at 174 degrees and end around 197 degrees.

For our first comparison we tested the factory intake system on KTuner's stock equivalent ECU map versus our High Volume Intake System on KTuner's stock equivalent ECU map for an apples-to-apples comparison. Run 2 was the coolest (174 degree starting temp) for both setups. We saw an 11-12 horsepower peak gain and 32 horsepower gain throughout the mid-range over the factory intake system.
CTR%20Intake%20Comparison%20Stock%20Tune%20Cold_zps5p869pkz.jpg


Continuous dyno pulls and testing under the same conditions produce identical gains time after time. Even our hottest runs, Run 4 (197 degree starting temp), showed a 5 horsepower peak gain and 26 horsepower gain throughout the mid-range over the factory intake system.
CTR%20Intake%20Comparison%20Stock%20Tune%20Hot_zpsoqufiz6d.jpg


Next, we uploaded KTuner's Stage 1 ECU map with the factory intake system and our High Volume Intake System. The coolest runs, Run 2, showed an 8-9 horsepower peak gain and 25 horsepower gain throughout the mid-range.
CTR%20Intake%20Comparison%20S1%20Tune%20Cold_zpsynn0l6uk.jpg


The hottest runs, Run 5, showed a 9 horespower peak gain and 18 horsepower gain throughout the mid-range.
CTR%20Intake%20Comparison%20S1%20Tune%20Hot_zps0d76mmvj.jpg


One of our main focuses with this intake system was to offer a factory-like fuel trims (much like our 1.5T Cobra CAI & SRI) for optimal drivability and performance. We spent quite a bit of time designing what we feel is the best intake system/MAF housing on the market. Thus far we have seen Short Term Fuel Trims within +2-4% of the factory. We have a few more tricks up our sleeve, but we are very happy and confident with what we've come up with! :)
edited-image_zpsnjwnvrao.png

edited-image_zpswwwkaocd.png


Stay tuned as we continue to do do more testing and development. We will be putting together some street data for Long Term Fuel Trims as well!
While the factory intake system and exhaust system do a decent job, there are still gains to be had. Cat-back and turbo-back exhaust systems pick up notable gains with this 2.0L turbo platform, especially at higher power levels. The factory intake system works quite well, which is why it has taken so long for us to come to the market with anything that we feel confident in. We have proven many months ago that a smooth flowing, high flow silicone hose and air filter picks up notable gains with our Stage 1 intake system. Our High Volume Intake system picks up even larger gains due to the massive 6" ID cone filter, air box, ducting, silicone intake hose and velocity stack. Our billet MAF housing also helps to keep fuel trims within spec.
 

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Sure, this is all information we've covered in our High Volume Intake thread here.


While the factory intake system and exhaust system do a decent job, there are still gains to be had. Cat-back and turbo-back exhaust systems pick up notable gains with this 2.0L turbo platform, especially at higher power levels. The factory intake system works quite well, which is why it has taken so long for us to come to the market with anything that we feel confident in. We have proven many months ago that a smooth flowing, high flow silicone hose and air filter picks up notable gains with our Stage 1 intake system. Our High Volume Intake system picks up even larger gains due to the massive 6" ID cone filter, air box, ducting, silicone intake hose and velocity stack. Our billet MAF housing also helps to keep fuel trims within spec.
Hi PRL, any possibilities to remove some variables into your testing? Strictly stock everything and just the stage 2 intake? I strongly believe half, if not most, of the CTR owners are not decked with enthusiast mods such as what you are adding into your test. I can only speak for myself, but I would like to know if the output makes a difference. I realize this may mean that the stage 2 intake may not live up to its peak, but hey, if you have willing customers to fork over their money, then why not shell out more test cases :)
 

PRL Motorsports

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Hi PRL, any possibilities to remove some variables into your testing? Strictly stock everything and just the stage 2 intake? I strongly believe half, if not most, of the CTR owners are not decked with enthusiast mods such as what you are adding into your test. I can only speak for myself, but I would like to know if the output makes a difference. I realize this may mean that the stage 2 intake may not live up to its peak, but hey, if you have willing customers to fork over their money, then why not shell out more test cases :)
We have no plans at this time to test on a stock car, there will be various third party testing involved to determine this. Also removing performance modifications does not change the way the intake behaves as it is a direct bolt on does not require a tune to run it.
 

Florence_NC

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Sure, this is all information we've covered in our High Volume Intake thread here.


While the factory intake system and exhaust system do a decent job, there are still gains to be had. Cat-back and turbo-back exhaust systems pick up notable gains with this 2.0L turbo platform, especially at higher power levels. The factory intake system works quite well, which is why it has taken so long for us to come to the market with anything that we feel confident in. We have proven many months ago that a smooth flowing, high flow silicone hose and air filter picks up notable gains with our Stage 1 intake system. Our High Volume Intake system picks up even larger gains due to the massive 6" ID cone filter, air box, ducting, silicone intake hose and velocity stack. Our billet MAF housing also helps to keep fuel trims within spec.
I appreciate the response back. My comments:

Exhaust: Since this is a discussion about intakes I did not fully detail and qualify my statement about exhausts. A complete statement would be that the OEM exhaust is very good at the stock sound levels. Sure, it is easy to make power if you can live with a lot higher volume levels. But I have yet to see any aftermarket system that can gain power without also carrying significantly more noise level. I would be happy to continue the discussions on exhausts, but probably somewhere else that is not high-jacking a thread on intakes.

Intakes: I had not seen the thread on your new intake. It is 17 pages long, so it will take me some time to read it all before further specific comments. I will comment back either here or within that thread when I have time to do so.



I will say this in general, though. And this is not aimed directly at you, just a generalized statement about the performance industry:

I have been a Motec dealer for over 10 years, and have been dynoing and tuning vehicles for over 20 years. So I know how easy it is to produce misleading performance data, both intentionally and unintentionally. A manufacturer can publish data all day long, but as a consumer, that is not sufficient proof of anything to me. I need to see a complete explanation of how the tests were run, what is the raw data, what is the data that was thrown out, and why was it thrown out. If you give me 2 or more bolt-on components for comparison, I can manipulate the test and the results to make any order of results that you want. So can just about any other experienced tuner/dyno operator.

All this cheating is especially easy to do when the power gain is less than 5%, which is the range of gain expected from an airbox. The amount of tweaking on the tests needed to create this much error in the results is very small. I see such intentional cheating all the time in the industry. Way too many people buy a claimed dyno number, and not a proven product. It is a perfect breeding ground for unscrupulous and dishonest people, and results in many ill-educated consumers being shafted. I see this stuff happen every day.

It is also very easy to skew the results from poor scientific practices when operating a dyno, especially a wheel dyno. It is very easy (and way more common than most people would believe) for a dyno back-to-back test to give the results everyone was hoping for, but are in fact not an accurate assessment of the real performance of the products.

As humans, we tend to find what we are looking for. When a set of dyno results tells us what we didn't want to hear, we tend to go investigate why, try more tests, check the weather, tire pressure, etc. We keep trying to figure out why this new product "B" is not better than the old product "A". Sometimes we find an issue in the testing and correct the results, sometime we invent an issue in the testing and "correct" the results. But if we get the results we want the first time, how many people do you think question the "good" results and invest the same effort to verify the accuracy of the test results as when they were "bad"? So it takes patience, a setting aside of ego and preconceived desires, and strict adherence to standard scientific methods and practices to get dependable, accurate results. Unless claimed dyno numbers also include proof of the above standards, they are little more than unscaled numbers on a page to me.
 
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PRL Motorsports

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I appreciate the response back. My comments:

Exhaust: Since this is a discussion about intakes I did not fully detail and qualify my statement about exhausts. A complete statement would be that the OEM exhaust is very good at the stock sound levels. Sure, it is easy to make power if you can live with a lot higher volume levels. But I have yet to see any aftermarket system that can gain power without also carrying significantly more noise level. I would be happy to continue the discussions on exhausts, but probably somewhere else that is not high-jacking a thread on intakes.

Intakes: I had not seen the thread on your new intake. It is 17 pages long, so it will take me some time to read it all before further specific comments. I will comment back either here or within that thread when I have time to do so.



I will say this in general, though. And this is not aimed directly at you, just a generalized statement about the performance industry:

I have been a Motec dealer for over 10 years, and have been dynoing and tuning vehicles for over 20 years. So I know how easy it is to produce misleading performance data, both intentionally and unintentionally. A manufacturer can publish data all day long, but as a consumer, that is not sufficient proof of anything to me. I need to see a complete explanation of how the tests were run, what is the raw data, what is the data that was thrown out, and why was it thrown out. If you give me 2 or more bolt-on components for comparison, I can manipulate the test and the results to make any order of results that you want. So can just about any other experienced tuner/dyno operator.

All this cheating is especially easy to do when the power gain is less than 5%, which is the range of gain expected from an airbox. The amount of tweaking on the tests needed to create this much error in the results is very small. I see such intentional cheating all the time in the industry. Way too many people buy a claimed dyno number, and not a proven product. It is a perfect breeding ground for unscrupulous and dishonest people, and results in many ill-educated consumers being shafted. I see this stuff happen every day.

It is also very easy to skew the results from poor scientific practices when operating a dyno, especially a wheel dyno. It is very easy (and way more common than most people would believe) for a dyno back-to-back test to give the results everyone was hoping for, but are in fact not an accurate assessment of the real performance of the products.

As humans, we tend to find what we are looking for. When a set of dyno results tells us what we didn't want to hear, we tend to go investigate why, try more tests, check the weather, tire pressure, etc. We keep trying to figure out why this new product "B" is not better than the old product "A". Sometimes we find an issue in the testing and correct the results, sometime we invent an issue in the testing and "correct" the results. But if we get the results we want the first time, how many people do you think question the "good" results and invest the same effort to verify the accuracy of the test results as when they were "bad"? So it takes patience, a setting aside of ego and preconceived desires, and strict adherence to standard scientific methods and practices to get dependable, accurate results. Unless claimed dyno numbers also include proof of the above standards, they are little more than unscaled numbers on a page to me.
We're always open to input. :)

There are actually two different threads on our intake, one of them being shorter than the other, but the 17 comment thread is the most active and relevant. With that being said, the bulk of our information is on the first few pages, as well as the page that the hyperlink links to.

You asked for data, so data is what we posted; not only dyno graphs, but fuel trims from our logs. We are well aware of the fact that many manufacturers skew results, if you have ever followed us or our products, you would know that this is not what we strive to do. We use prefer to use a DynoJet for the fact that roller weight(s) and load cannot be changed. If any pulls/runs were "thrown out" (not saying that any were), it would've been because the run conditions were not identical; i.e. starting a pull at the same starting temp, knock-control, RPM, etc. However, these runs are run identical comparisons of 1vs1, 4vs4, etc. ALL of our products are tried and true, backed up by dyno, track and street results time and time again by various third parties. This is primarily why we have the reputation that we do. If this were a released product you would see identical results from multiple parties (which you will soon). We are not new to the game, our engineers and tuner/dyno operator have been developing/tuning cars and products since the late 90's. We too were not satisfied with the way the industry handled claimed gains and results, which is why we joined forces and aim to do better.
 

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As I have been considering buying a new intake recently, I have compiled data that I've sourced throughout the forums and internet. As a disclaimer I am just compiling data from various sources and have not done any testing myself. I will provide sources to the data at the end of the post so you can go read all of the fine details yourself. The first group of data is gathered from a youtube video done by 11Tenths and the rest is manufacturer data from PRL and Mishimoto themselves. PRL has provided a large amount of good data to go off of and Mishimoto has not, so take that for what its worth. It is also important to keep in mind all of this data was not gathered on the same car, in the same location, under the same conditions or anything so there is a large amount of variables not accounted for yielding this as not a "true" comparison. It's more or less a one stop shop of data available on the internet. Also one thing to keep in mind is some of the pricing may be inconsistent with some of the intakes due to sales and different dealers. At the time of this post, the two intakes I had the hardest time finding consistent pricing for is the Injen and aFe Takeda.

Honda Civic 10th gen How do you rate the available Type-R intakes? upload_2019-4-25_15-16-46

*PHP = Price per Horsepower

Sources:
First Group:
PRL S1: https://www.civicx.com/threads/prl-motorsports-fk8-civic-type-r-stage-1-intake-system.26089/
PRL HVI: https://www.civicx.com/threads/prl-...-r-fk8-high-volume-intake-system.31751/page-6
Mishimoto: https://www.mishimoto.com/engineeri...-r-performance-intake-rd-sample-test-results/
AEM: https://www.aemintakes.com/dynocharts/AEM-21-832_dyno.pdf
 
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Well done xLucidDream4 !
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