Hooking up a hidden toggle switch to disable push to start button... and still be able to remote start.

[ricklndn]

So I was sitting here thinking, how can I pervent someone steeling my car or maybe hijacking my remote signal...

Then it came to me! What if I install a toggle switch before the push start button? The car can still be remote started but without finding the hidden toggle switch the car would just die out when putting it into gear...
Could you imagine the adrenaline and there face how happy they would be to get the car started then the car dies when they put it in gear lmao.

I'm kinda interested in this idea and would be interested in hearing your thoughts on how to implement it.

NOTE: I do not want to do the fuel pump route because I want to be able to remote start in winter.

Sponsored

 

[Syntek]

So I was sitting here thinking, how can I pervent someone steeling my car or maybe hijacking my remote signal...

Then it came to me! What if I install a toggle switch before the start button? The car can still be remote started but without finding the hidden toggle switch the car would just die out when putting it into gear...

I'm kinda interested in this idea and would be interested in hearing your thoughts on how to implement it.

A kill switch to the fuel pump would probably work better tbh

 

[ricklndn]

A kill switch to the fuel pump would probably work better tbh

If I did that then I can not remote start the car in winter.

 

[L8apex]

You can interrupt the brake pedal switch to keep the circuit open until you flip a hidden switch. I would say that would be the easiest way. But I’d be careful about turning the switch off (opening the circuit) accidentally while you’re actually driving since your brake lights wouldn’t turn on and maybe do some funky stuff with the ABS and VSA operation.

 

[ricklndn]

You can interrupt the brake pedal switch to keep the circuit open until you flip a hidden switch. I would say that would be the easiest way. But I’d be careful about turning the switch off (opening the circuit) accidentally while you’re actually driving since your brake lights wouldn’t turn on and maybe do some funky stuff with the ABS and VSA operation.

That's true..
I just don't want to pull the dash apart to get at the wire for the push button, so I'm sure there is more then one way to do the toggle switch thing.. ill wait a bit longer to see what other people say.

 

[shoegazer]

I second the brake switch idea. The start button (with its ability to energize and read the fob) seems more complicated that just a simple momentary switch.

 

[ricklndn]

I second the brake switch idea. The start button (with its ability to energize and read the fob) seems more complicated that just a simple momentary switch.

I'm interested in this method, but the other poster says there could be a problem if it was switched off when driving .. what would happen lol.
And would it fail to remote start?

 

[shoegazer]

I'm interested in this method, but the other poster says there could be a problem if it was switched off when driving .. what would happen lol.
And would it fail to remote start?

I'll let others chime in since I ain't no expert. But I think the switch, basically, turns your brake lights on and off. In addition... the computer gets a status of the switch to be able to start and move the shifter out of Park (and release the parking brake maybe). But so far as I know; it's just like the switch that turns the light in your refrigerator on and off. My only concern with the start switch was that it seems like it's more complicated and interrupting its connection may upset the Honda Force.

Or it could be that there is another brake pedal position sensor that I don't know about.

But you'd certainly want to have the kill switch in an area where it couldn't be accidently moved. I don't know exactly what would happen if it was accidently switched off when driving. But I would think that it wouldn't be any different that having the actual switch fail while driving. You'd get errors, for sure. But I don't think the car would go all willy-nilly.

 

[ricklndn]

I'll let others chime in since I ain't no expert. But I think the switch, basically, turns your brake lights on and off. In addition... the computer gets a status of the switch to be able to start and move the shifter out of Park (and release the parking brake maybe). But so far as I know; it's just like the switch that turns the light in your refrigerator on and off. My only concern with the start switch was that it seems like it's more complicated and interrupting its connection may upset the Honda Force.

Or it could be that there is another brake pedal position sensor that I don't know about.

But you'd certainly want to have the kill switch in an area where it couldn't be accidently moved. I don't know exactly what would happen if it was accidently switched off when driving. But I would think that it wouldn't be any different that having the actual switch fail while driving. You'd get errors, for sure. But I don't think the car would go all willy-nilly.

I suppose you could reach up and disconnect the start button and see what happens.

You are most likely right on that and will let others chim in on that method, I just hope it would still remote start, that would be my other concern if this method was done.. it would also be nice if there was a way to have the toggle switch reset to the off automatically when the car was turned off lol.

 

[ricklndn]

You are most likely right on that and will let others chim in on that method, I just hope it would still remote start, that would be my other concern if this method was done.. it would also be nice if there was a way to have the toggle switch reset to the off automatically when the car was turned off lol.

That makes me think... maybe there's away to hold in a button so I could put it in gear without it stalling... and the button would always need to be held in when putting it in to a gear... this way there's no way of forgetting to switch off the toggle switch after finishing driving...
Sounds like it's getting more complicated lol.. but there could be some good ideas out there

 

[bikejog]

Whatever you decided to do, check out smart relays like this one below. It's Alexa compatible so you can turn it on and off with your voice. Much better than hiding a switch. Just hide this relay way, way, way, out of sight.

https://www.amazon.com/MHCOZY-Wireless-Switch-applied-control/dp/B0752P57ZG

 

[ricklndn]

Whatever you decided to do, check out smart relays like this one below. It's Alexa compatible so you can turn it on and off with your voice. Much better than hiding a switch. Just hide this relay way, way, way, out of sight.

https://www.amazon.com/MHCOZY-Wireless-Switch-applied-control/dp/B0752P57ZG

That also sounds interesting, almost like 2 factor security, almost to brilliant! Why 2 factor security is not apart of are big investment is not available in the 21st century is mind blowing... but we are starting to come up with some awesome ideas.. let's keep it coming..

 

[bikejog]

Regarding the actual switch. You could connect a two pole relay in series with G9 and G18 in the BCM. The smart relay I linked to is a single pole relay, but you could easily drive another plain double pole relay with it. Or maybe there're double pole versions of the smart relay available somewhere else. Or you could possibly just connect a single pole relay in series with G503, but that's probably more risky because you don't know how the start/stop circuit is designed inside the BCM.

EDIT: Or you could also connect a single pole relay in series with the yellow wire. This will cut power to the start/stop switch so the lights won't even flash unless the cutoff switch/relay is turned on. But it carries similar risk as in connecting to G503 and not sure how easy it is to find this wire since it's connected to the button itself. And don't go back too far since the yellow wire also powers B16 of the BCM and the electric steering wheel lock so you don't want to cut off power to these two.

https://github.com/JW0914/Wikis/blob/master/Automotive/FK8 CTR/Electrical/Schematics/Keyless/Keyless Access System.pdf

G9, G18, and G503 are for the hatchback. Sedan/Coupe might be different.

And also that smart switch's standby current is 80mA@5V (so < 40mA @12V?). That's not a lot of current draw and won't kill the battery for at least 2 weeks or more, but it's probably best to design another power circuit that provides power for x number of seconds/minutes after the door is opened and whenever in ACC or ON mode. Also make sure all of the parts in the smart relay are of automotive grade so they operate in the cold and heat. And obviously, you need to think about a bypass switch in case you're having problem connecting to it. But those are all design decisions you need to make anyway!

 

[ricklndn]

Regarding the actual switch. You could connect a two pole relay in series with G9 and G18 in the BCM. The smart relay I linked to is a single pole relay, but you could easily drive another plain double pole relay with it. Or maybe there're double pole versions of the smart relay available somewhere else. Or you could possibly just connect a single pole relay in series with G503, but that's probably more risky because you don't know how the start/stop circuit is designed inside the BCM.

EDIT: Or you could also connect a single pole relay in series with the yellow wire. This will cut power to the start/stop switch so the lights won't even flash unless the cutoff switch/relay is turned on. But it carries similar risk as in connecting to G503 and not sure how easy it is to find this wire since it's connected to the button itself. And don't go back too far since the yellow wire also powers B16 of the BCM and the electric steering wheel lock so you don't want to cut off power to these two.

https://github.com/JW0914/Wikis/blob/master/Automotive/FK8 CTR/Electrical/Schematics/Keyless/Keyless Access System.pdf

G9, G18, and G503 are for the hatchback. Sedan/Coupe might be different.

And also that smart switch's standby current is 80mA@5V (so < 40mA @12V?). That's not a lot of current draw and won't kill the battery for at least 2 weeks or more, but it's probably best to design another power circuit that provides power for x number of seconds/minutes after the door is opened and whenever in ACC or ON mode. Also make sure all of the parts in the smart relay are of automotive grade so they operate in the cold and heat. And obviously, you need to think about a bypass switch in case you're having problem connecting to it. But those are all design decisions you need to make anyway!

This sounds complicated lol, I'm thinking there must be easier ways haha

 

[bikejog]

This sounds complicated lol, I'm thinking there must be easier ways haha

Neah it's easy. All you gotta do is get to the BCM under the dash. It's somewhere around the fuse box. The goal is to cut G9 and G18 and wire them to a two pole switch (or a smart relay). Basically, when the start/stop switch is not pressed, both B9 and B18 are just open. When they're pressed, then B18 is connected to +12V and B9 is connected to GND. So if you wired a two pole switch/relay in series and if you don't turn the switch/relay on, then the two will always be open.

You do have to cut two wires in one of the BCM connectors, but you'd have to do that anyway if you were to use the brake switch (which is less safe as you mentioned).

Sponsored