Hondata "stock boost" tune?

[Ruskee]

So I just purchased a 2018 Si. I already own FlashPro (taken off the EX-T I had before). I've heard the Si clutch is known to be very weak. Eventually I plan to upgrade it, but not looking to do that right away. Is there an OTS map that will give me all the other benefits of a tune (eliminate rev hang, launch control, full throttle shifting, better response, etc.) while keeping the same power level? I'm okay with the stock power for now, but I really don't like the rev hang, and I just want the car to feel a bit less "nerfed down" if that makes sense. Eventually I'll save up for a clutch job and run the +6 psi map for as long as I can until the clutch starts slipping and it's time to install an FX350, but for now I want a good stock power tune. Or maybe like +3 psi tune if that doesn't cause significantly faster clutch wear. Let me know if there's a preset map for this, or if there is a safe way to modify an existing map to do this (without compromising those other features mentioned earlier). Thanks

TL;DR
How can I tune my Si with FlashPro to get all the features and benefits of a tune without enough extra power to cause premature clutch wear and slippage?

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[360glitch]

I don't have the software in front of me but I am 99% sure there is a factory equivalent base map available.

 

[Ruskee]

I don't have the software in front of me but I am 99% sure there is a factory equivalent base map available.

But does this "factory equivalent" map still eliminate rev hang and provide features such as launch control and full throttle shifting?

 

[360glitch]

But does this "factory equivalent" map still eliminate rev hang and provide features such as launch control and full throttle shifting?

It is a base map that you can edit any way you'd please. Once you open up the base map, check out the new "mods" menu.

 

[WOPSiWOT]

I'm like you and interested in avoiding a clutch job for right now. I've tried a couple of different things. Certainly you can use the "stock equivalent" tune and just go with that. You can then do the rev hang delete and other stuff you mentioned. What I'm doing right now is take the +6 tune and then copied stock boost targets to 4k RPM. Beyond 4k I reduced everything by .2 bar (2.9 psi). This gives a max boost target of ~20.3 (what Honda advertised!). By starting from the +6 base map you also get reduced knock air limits for more consistent boost and leans out WOT. Maybe overly conservative and it is pretty subtle vs. stock, but that's what I'm doing.

 

[Ruskee]

I'm like you and interested in avoiding a clutch job for right now. I've tried a couple of different things. Certainly you can use the "stock equivalent" tune and just go with that. You can then do the rev hang delete and other stuff you mentioned. What I'm doing right now is take the +6 tune and then copied stock boost targets to 4k RPM. Beyond 4k I reduced everything by .2 bar (2.9 psi). This gives a max boost target of ~20.3 (what Honda advertised!). By starting from the +6 base map you also get reduced knock air limits for more consistent boost and leans out WOT. Maybe overly conservative and it is pretty subtle vs. stock, but that's what I'm doing.

Could you please explain exactly how/where/what I would need to edit to replicate this? I don't really know what I'm doing so I'm very hesitant about messing with the parameters.

 

[WOPSiWOT]

Could you please explain exactly how/where/what I would need to edit to replicate this? I don't really know what I'm doing so I'm very hesitant about messing with the parameters.

The TC Max Pressure Ratio Table is the one with the boost targets. What I did was open the “stock equivalent” tune and copy the tables up to 4K. Then opened a +6 tune and copied over those values. Then highlighted everything from 4K down and decreased by .2 bar (all values are in bar and you have to subtract the top line number from the number in the table to calculate the boost target). That gives a maximum boost target of 1.398 bar (or 20.276 psi) at 5700. That’s just what I’ve done. Not near as good as the +6, but that’s what I’m doing for right now. You can do just about as well, probably, just running the “stock equivalent” and doing the rev hang delete and setting up your launch control rpms. Especially if you don’t feel comfortable altering tables. I do feel like the car runs a little better when I use the +6 as my starting point, but I’d have to study the data logs closer to see if that is quantifiable.

 

[Ruskee]

I've decided to just use a +3 psi tune across the board. I read in another forum where someone asked about the same thing, and Hondata replied saying to just load the +6 psi map, go to TC Max Pressure Ratio, select everything from 1500 rpm downwards, and adjust by -0.2 bar. Hopefully this gives a somewhat noticeable bump in power without stressing the clutch.

 

[WOPSiWOT]

I've decided to just use a +3 psi tune across the board. I read in another forum where someone asked about the same thing, and Hondata replied saying to just load the +6 psi map, go to TC Max Pressure Ratio, select everything from 1500 rpm downwards, and adjust by -0.2 bar. Hopefully this gives a somewhat noticeable bump in power without stressing the clutch.

Yeah, I saw the same post on Hondata boards. The reason I didn’t do that is because the boost targets lower in the RPM range are actually below stock levels. If you just do a universal -.2 from 1500 down then you will end up with boost targets that are well below stock. Take some time to look at the numbers, but definitely do what you want. I kind of did a modified version of what you are saying.

 

[Ruskee]

Yeah, I saw the same post on Hondata boards. The reason I didn’t do that is because the boost targets lower in the RPM range are actually below stock levels. If you just do a universal -.2 from 1500 down then you will end up with boost targets that are well below stock. Take some time to look at the numbers, but definitely do what you want. I kind of did a modified version of what you are saying.

Ohh. That makes sense. I was wondering why the numbers looked kinda weird. I'm gonna try to do what you're saying. Thanks

 

[Micah]

Fwiw, 2017 SI sedan bone stock running Hondata +9 map and having zero issues with clutch. Over 11,000 miles on the car. +6 map from under 3000 miles and +9 map from under 6000 miles.

 

[JNRS]

Fwiw, 2017 SI sedan bone stock running Hondata +9 map and having zero issues with clutch. Over 11,000 miles on the car. +6 map from under 3000 miles and +9 map from under 6000 miles.

Very tempting. With my luck, the clutch would start slipping on the +6 map. I've read that some people experienced their clutch slipping with stock power. I'm not sure why Honda would put in a clutch that could barely hold stock power levels.

 

[Micah]

Very tempting. With my luck, the clutch would start slipping on the +6 map. I've read that some people experienced their clutch slipping with stock power. I'm not sure why Honda would put in a clutch that could barely hold stock power levels.

Problem is the loose nut behind the wheel....

Learn how to drive without burning the hell out of the clutch with a crap ton of slip and it will last a very long time. Granted the clutch delay valve in our cars forces one to be patient in order to do so. I do not launch the car, but I certainly have no issues with getting aggressive with the throttle. Make power in gear, not between gears. Do not use flat foot shifting. I do have the rev hang disable and fuel overrun delay reduced severely (30,20,10,10,10). It isn't difficult to get a feeling for how much of a moment is needed to let the rpms drop between gears.

 

[Ataricade]

Very tempting. With my luck, the clutch would start slipping on the +6 map. I've read that some people experienced their clutch slipping with stock power. I'm not sure why Honda would put in a clutch that could barely hold stock power levels.

Honda didn’t do that. The problem is people who can’t drive stick properly.

 

[JNRS]

Honda didn’t do that. The problem is people who can’t drive stick properly.

Interesting point. The thread below is the one that has me worried about the clutch slipping, if I decide to tune it. I am not looking to upgrade the clutch, as I will probably be replacing the car in three years.

https://www.civicx.com/threads/sis-have-defective-clutch.17052/

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