Hondata Flashpro

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Mike2954...

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How do you like the Perrin? I’m in between that and PRL
I like it so far, only reason I went with perrin is because it was cheaper and in stock. Just a forewarning, since its alot bigger than stock, you arent able to get all the clips on the bottom side of the bumper without cutting the little plastic fins on the bumper. I didnt cut them, so i have a little rattle when i go over bumps. but good overall
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tinyman392

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So the stock FK8 can overheat with Hondata? I’m looking at going this route but don’t want over heating issues
The stock FK8 overheats in general. If you're on track, it's possible you'll run into limp mode when it's > 70-80 degrees out. If you're driving on the road, your intercooler can heat soak. However, if you're tracking the vehicle, it's not super advised to be upgrading your intercooler (I think the C&R is being tested for track work). The issue with most of the aftermarket intercoolers is that they will still heat soak, they'll just take longer to do so (and will take just as long to un-heatsoak vs the stock that will heat soak quickly, but also cool quickly if in fresh air).
 

BoostedDreams

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The stock FK8 overheats in general. If you're on track, it's possible you'll run into limp mode when it's > 70-80 degrees out. If you're driving on the road, your intercooler can heat soak. However, if you're tracking the vehicle, it's not super advised to be upgrading your intercooler (I think the C&R is being tested for track work). The issue with most of the aftermarket intercoolers is that they will still heat soak, they'll just take longer to do so (and will take just as long to un-heatsoak vs the stock that will heat soak quickly, but also cool quickly if in fresh air).
Could you find a link for the c&r intercooler for the fk8? I’m not having luck.
 


ayau

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I wouldn't be too certain about an aftermarket creating more power than the stock IC.

On a dyno, you have less airflow, which means your IC will heat soak sooner. This means you can potentially make more power on an aftermarket IC once your OEM IC is heat soaked.

On the streets, you have a lot more airflow. Once you're at cruising speed, your IC temps will drop and your IC will no longer be heat soaked.

In other words, dyno numbers are not real world numbers. Hopefully that shouldn't be surprising to anyone. You would need 2 FK8 side by side, one with stock IC and the other with an aftermarket IC, to truly determine whether or not an IC would net you more power.
 

Turboroe

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No, you will have to have a custom tune. I'm just saying you don't need a sensor to run ethanol if you are confident of the mixture.

Putting a little E85 won't necessarily hurt anything, just throw off your fuel trims. E30 is a bit much to just run without a tune.
I am trying to figure out how to adapt my basemap for the E27 fuel standard from my country. From what I am reading, I dont need a flex fuel sensor (since the 27% is pretty accurate around the country).

Can you sort of point me to the right direction in terms of what changes I have to do to the basemap to account for the 27% ethanol content, and if the process is safe for a on-the-leaning-ladder guy?

First thing I figured is that my fuel has 13,2 stoichiometric AFR. How to apply this to the tune?

Thanks
 


ayau

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I am trying to figure out how to adapt my basemap for the E27 fuel standard from my country. From what I am reading, I dont need a flex fuel sensor (since the 27% is pretty accurate around the country).

Can you sort of point me to the right direction in terms of what changes I have to do to the basemap to account for the 27% ethanol content, and if the process is safe for a on-the-leaning-ladder guy?

First thing I figured is that my fuel has 13,2 stoichiometric AFR. How to apply this to the tune?

Thanks
Increase fuel trims to 10% in Hondata. Go out and drive around for 15 minutes and log. Review the long term fuel trims and see if they’re positive or negative. If negative, reduce it to 9%. If positive, increase it to 11%. Repeat this process until long term trim is +/- 1%.

The ecu runs in full time closed loop, so you don’t need to worry about wide open throttle fueling.
 

kefi

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I am trying to figure out how to adapt my basemap for the E27 fuel standard from my country. From what I am reading, I dont need a flex fuel sensor (since the 27% is pretty accurate around the country).

Can you sort of point me to the right direction in terms of what changes I have to do to the basemap to account for the 27% ethanol content, and if the process is safe for a on-the-leaning-ladder guy?

First thing I figured is that my fuel has 13,2 stoichiometric AFR. How to apply this to the tune?

Thanks
It's quite simple to tune for ethanol's trims on an FK8. Our ECU always operates in lambdas and the fuel learning process takes care of figuring out where stoichiometric actually sits. With our full time closed loop operation during WOT its even easier. It'll always show 14.7 in Hondata but the ECU is actually working in lambdas.

Like ayau said, start at 10% and look at LTrim. Bump it by 2% up or down at a time, based on what LTrim shows on average (use the xy graph with RPM and l.trim). I personally run E30 at 13%.
 

kefi

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I just realized you've got a 1.5 and not an FK8. No idea how things work on that platform for ethanol in terms if stoichiometric, but the trim process should be the same.

I didn't know Brazil had 27% ethanol everywhere. Good god I'm jealous now.
 

Turboroe

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Thanks, I never would have figured it would be that easy.

To increase the fuel trims, I use the Fuel / Cylinder trim?

Yeah I like having ethanol blend at the pump, but it is a real problem for some imported vehicles because the only pure gasoline available is Premium, which costs 60% more than regular.
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