Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM

[Anger]

Another interesting part installed yesterday! The 27WON TIP was fitted and I have to say that it does look great like everyone says! Apart from the looks, the manufacturing and the overall quality are truly of the highest standards. The pipe seems to be quite rigid and since the CRV engine bay is slightly larger than that of the civic, along with the engine sitting lower , makes the TIP look like its OEM!

Fitment, like most if not all engine parts I have installed was an issue. While the TIP fitted perfectly, the silicone hose that connects the MAF to the TIP is quite longer than needed. That stroke weird to me as the civic is not wider and the TIP obviously fits the 27WON air intake box. Bottom line is that the PRL SRI cone hits against the ECU and there is no way to install the supporting bracket. We also installed a small piece of rubber on the stock intake air box mounting point so the silicone hose won't rub against it.

Its a quite tight fit so the bracket is not needed BUT the air filter was slightly bend. It is obviously not the best solution and I already have emailed 27WON to see if they are interested in manufacturing a silicone pipe that will fit. If they do, they can market the TIP for the CRV as well, as long as a PRL SRI is installed. In the case of the stock airbox, another silicone pipe with different length will be needed. I am not aware of the complexity and/or the cost of the process to design an manufacture different silicone piping, but if they do, this part will fit the 5th gen CR-V RW. The important thing is the TIP and since the engine is the same across all models, it will be a pitty not to offer a CRV option as well.

Performance: The car is still running on the Ktuner Base 21 DUAL. I have not moved forward with custom tuning because I was waiting for the TIP to be installed, plus the lockdown is a major restraint. Still, there are some noticeable differences, even with the stock turbo. The car seems to be more eager from 3200 to 4500 rpm. Especially if you are on part throttle, it feels not only that there is absolutely zero lag but also the butt dyno says that the car is more willing to accelerate. I will do a few pulls from 2000 rpm with 4th gear to see if I can sense any differences at lower RPM. There is no significant gain, I can tell you that much. But I do believe that along with a RACE MAF, there is a small margin to be achieved. The upside to the not-ideal installation is that the air filter is now even further from the turbo, which means that the IAT is even lower. Its so lower in fact that the IAT in part throttle/cruising conditions with ambient temps of 50F/10 celcius is identical to that of the IAT2, while before the IAT2 was 4 degrees Celcius lower than IAT.

Another interesting change is the engine noise. The turbo and the intake do not sound louder, but the engine sound is definitely more present. Maybe the "blow-off" sound of the PRL SRI is slightly stronger but all in all, the car finally sounds like its running a small sporty engine like it actually does. So do not expect turbo spool noise increase, but the engine will sound more at higher RPMs, especially if you run a DP.

Now that the car is "full bolt-on", one thing remains and that is the actual turbo. I need to custom tune first to see how the engine is performing given that the intake camshaft is a major question mark. While on civics the overall output could be anywhere from 220 to 240hp, the EU CRV (and the USDM 2020 models probably-I have to cross reference the part numbers) is still unknown territory until its properly tuned and dyno-ed. In case the intake camshaft is in fact less aggressive than that of the non-Si even, a larger turbo is one way street. I do still consider 27WON W1 but will wait until there is a v2 or something, either ball bearing or modified design or different materials used or a combination of the above which will further improve reliability of the turbo.

@Vincent@27WON thanks for the excellent part and the quick replies either over email or instagram. While I will try to sort the silicone pipe out myself (try to find someone to fabricate a custom one for me), I do strongly suggest to look into the CRV being added to your TIP lineup! Fotos below! I am also wondering what this little screw on the side of the TIP is for in the first foto!

 

[Vincent@27WON]

Thanks for the share. We know the TIP will fit the CRV just a few small tweaks. I hope we can get one in sometime in the future and refine it a bit.

 

[JiiJii]

Hi.

Thanks for this avesome thread.

I have same model CR-V and i'm wondering if i should get K-tuner for my Honda.

Do you think that clutch and transmission can handle increased power and torque and last normally?

Do you know why MT has only 173hp and the CVT has 193hp? It's the same engine.

 

[Anger]

Hi.

Thanks for this avesome thread.

I have same model CR-V and i'm wondering if i should get K-tuner for my Honda.

Do you think that clutch and transmission can handle increased power and torque and last normally?

Do you know why MT has only 173hp and the CVT has 193hp? It's the same engine.

Hey there! nice to see a fellow European with 5th gen CR-V, manual nonetheless!
For me Ktuner is a no-brainer. It makes a huge difference. I am not aware if Hondata offers solutions as well, but I would not look into them at all. Ktuner is the way to go. You should check your ECU number and ask Ktuner if they offer support for it. The ECU number is located on the left side of the ECU. Its a bit difficult to see if you dont remove the top part of the airbox at least. I snuffed my cell phone and took a photo, thats how I saw it. Send an email to Ktuner with the ECU number and they will tell you if it is immediately supported or if you have to go through a simple process to send them data so they can unlock it for you. Since you have a manual, its highly likely that the last part is Gxx which is already supported.
Uploading the base tune is really easy, just make sure you either have the car battery plugged in a battery supporter or at least the battery is in good condition, you dont want it dying in the middle of the process.

The clutch is identical to that of the non-Si. The car is heavy so there is more strain on the clutch than on a civic. If however you drive properly a manual transmission, you shouldnt have issues. Its also important not to go WOT on low speeds with high gear. I have had the Ktuner at the 21base map for 1.5 years and the clutch is still holding up but I am starting to sense that its "tired". I am already looking into option with Competition clutch being option 1 (we can get it fairly easily in Europe) and the Eman retrofit being option 2. I will make an attempt to reach him once more before proceeding to Competition.

Its also strange to me that the manual has less HP. Its obviously running at lower PSI in comparison to the CVT. They either did it to make the clutch last longer, run lower emissions or both. I believe it has to do with the clutch. A stock engine with the stock clutch and proper driving can last more than 7 years/150000km. I believe with "spirited" driving, especially launching the car from a dead stop etc will reduce the clutch life significantly. I am launching the car from time to time and I've had the clutch smelling a couple of times. Its generally not a good idea to launch it also because of the strain put on the rear diff. But if you manage to change from 1st to 2nd quickly(which is almost impossible with the stock flywheel and the CDV), it can do a pretty decent 0-100km/h and 0-400m.

 

[JiiJii]

As far as I know, i have the only one MT AVD here in Finland Everyone wants for some reason the CVT, but I think that the manual i way better.

I have the same ECU that you do, I checked it with my phone too during the holidays. I found your post from Ktuners forum.

What about ambient temperatures and the turbo? If the engine is not warm and the temperature outside is about -20C, as it can be in the north, can the turbo be damaged if it goes to 21 PSI?

One thing is where to get the Ktuner, European resellers are bit hard to find. No one sells threir used Ktuner, I have been looking for used ones. All Ebay sellers are from the USA, and with taxes the prize is about 500€.

 

[Anger]

You can find EU Ktuner sellers by checking the Ktuner website. I dont want to say someone publicly cause I dont want to advertize!

The lower the ambient temperature, the better for the turbo! I have been to Finland (Rovaniemi and Hyrynsalmi back in 1997, Christmas and it was -35!) and I know its f@cking cold in Winter!

Dont worry about the 21 PSI. What you should be careful about is getting the engine warm enough before turning it off to avoid oil dilution. I suppose full synthetic oil 0w-20 as Honda recommends is fine for you, but I would not move the car after a cold start, after 2 minutes (about 48 celcius ECT) and drive for at least 20 minutes for the engine to get properly hot before turning it off.

Here in Greece not many CRVs are sold because their price for AWD starts at 40000 euro(and goes up to 50k) which is BMW and Audi money so most people being morons prefer to go the VAG way. CVTs are also more here. I chose the manual because I knew I wanted to tune and the CVT would be a rescriction.

 

[Anger]

So, a little DIY with the help of a local silicone hose fabricator. I got a 85-65mm short silicone hose that fitted the 27WON TIP on one side and the PRL street MAF onthe other. I kept the small rubber piece attached to the OEM airbox mounting point so it wont puncture the silicone hose.
Its not a "bolt-on" solution but does the job! The air filter is once again closer to the turbo, increasing IAT but at least it doesnt rub against the ECU! I'll replace the bent filter element tomorrow!

 

[Vtek]

Awesome build man, im from Gibraltar and im helping my dad out with hisCRV 1.5t 6mt too so far has a ktuner with custom tune by manolitotech and a prl cai with race maf, we had it dynod before the custom tune with the ktuner +9psi map gave 212hp ans 312Nm, want to go back to see the new numbers with the custom tune, have you had yours dynod?

 

[Anger]

Unfortunately no I havent had it dynoed yet nor do I have a custom tune. I am THIS close to getting the Emman retro flywheel, we have had messages back and forth and he is out of stock. If he doesnt leave me out from the next batch, I will be good to go clutch-wise.

For CR-V owners, bear in mind that PRL may release a bolt-on FMIC for the CR-V, possibly with charge pipes. If they do, I will replace the Injen I retrofitted, mainly to get the charge pipes fitted as the FMIC wont perform much differently.

Also, there is some chatter about PRL doing a drop-in turbo for the L15. Along with the W1, the MHI TD03 and the RV6, it will be another solution.

 

[Vtek]

More support from aftermarket manufacturers would be awesome seems that the crv is lacking in that deparment even though it is one of the best selling cars oit there, seems like a wasted market, ill let you know what n umbers i get, also you should contact manolitotech to get it custom calibrated he does it online spends aroumd 3-4hours and the difference to the basemap is insane especially at the end of the rev range where it needed more timing now it pulls to redline rather than dropping off power after around 5500rpm, and redlines at 6400rpm.
P.s. what do you think about the catted prl downpipe? Worth doing or not much different to stock?

 

[Anger]

Cant say something specific to the downpipe since I havent dyno-ed before and after. I can surely say that the turbo is more eager to spool and that the noise is slightly increased. A downpipe surely helps with engine performance and almost all branded downpipes are pretty good. PRL, 27WON, RV6, AfE, all have positive reviews. An aftermarket downpipe will surely help, you cant go wrong with any well respected brand. If you dont have one, then go for it!

 

[Vtek]

I suppose the adaptors you had made would work with any aftrmarket intercooler, you could have some made and sell them here on the forum, id certainly buy some

 

[Anger]

I suppose the adaptors you had made would work with any aftrmarket intercooler, you could have some made and sell them here on the forum, id certainly buy some

Well these adapters are measured to fit the Injen FMIC specifically. There are slight differences from one intercooler to the other regarding overall length. For instance, it is highly likely that the PRL can be bolted on the cold side directly and then find a way to align it to the hot side pipe.
Plus, the Injen intercooler had to be modified as well with trimming one mounting point which means it can no longer be used on a civic. Lastly, we had to remove (not cut, just unscrew) the inner plastic reinforcements of the bumper (in my case Honda Access-sold as aftermarket accessory). I do not recall if the stock bumper has the same ones.

It was not an easy task but not difficult either. It was done at a machinist with a CNC machine available and it took one test fitting (simple removing the bumper and OEM intercooler-about 1 hour) and another appointment to install everything.

It took me about 1 month to decide which intercooler I should use, mainly because I was scared about intercooler height. Didnt know if it would clear the crash beam. The Injen is the shortest one available but being thick meant it barely fit the bumper. PRL and Mishimoto are thinner but taller but I do not know if they can clear the crash beam plus the temperature probe mounting point.

Best thing is that NOTHING on the car chassis or OEM part was modified. Nothing. The car can go back to stock like nothing happened.

Also, having repeatedly check OEM part numbers, photos etc, I am 10000% certain that the hot side pipe leading to the throttle body is IDENTICAL to that of the civic.
It would be a piece of cake for aftermarket companies to develop a bolt-on solution. They would have to design only end tanks and use the same cores. As for the charge pipes, 1/3 of the job is already done as they have civic solutions available. For them, developing silicone piping for the cold side and two small pipes would be easy.

The 2017-2019 USDM CR-V has the active shutter system in front of the IC as well so an aftermarket FMIC does not fit. HOWEVER the 2019+ model DOES NOT have them. I am baffled as to WHY no one bothers with the CRV, provided it has the same engine as the Civic. I do not believe that development costs are that high and there is great sales potential.

The engine can make as many HP as the Civic can make with CVT being the only restriction. Given that the rest of the world also get manual versions (like myself), an aftermarket clutch is all that is needed to hold the power.
Given that COVID movement restrictions are still in place, I am going to wait on the Emann retrofit. If that takes too long, then ACT for the clutch it is, as well as an aftermarket turbo. I have people telling me that the stock turbo being Si will do, others say that I should go for a hybrid and not a TD03 and in my head I want a TD04 (the W1 being the only solution at this size with housing issues being mentioned here and there). I am still torn between options.

The clutch, turbo and charge pipes are the only things left. Given how entertaining the car is after doing the pedal dance (VSA completely off) and that it can already exceed 143mph, I definitely want to proceed with those as well. The only question mark would then be the rear diff and rear drive shafts torque limits for AWD versions. I am going to find out

 

[Vtek]

My dads Crv does have the active shutter which is a bit of a bummer, wouldnt it be possible to just cut out the shutters and leave the mechanism in place or would that not work, hopefully someone releases an intercooler kit with viable solution for the asg

Seen these?https://trupowermotorsports.com/product/honda-cr-v-1-5t-charge-pipe-boost-pipe-kit/

I dont think the rear diff being a problem as older 4wd honda systems are being used in 1000hp+ aplications, even the stock clutch should be good for at least 260-270hp given any massive torque spike is tuned out, any good tuner should be able to do that its easy enough to modify the torque request table

A 27won turbo in the V should be hilarious???but i think around 240hp should be attainable with 98ron fuel on the stock turbo

i assume you are somewhere in europe where did you find the access bumper add on i cant find it anywhere in eu

 

[Anger]

My dads Crv does have the active shutter which is a bit of a bummer, wouldnt it be possible to just cut out the shutters and leave the mechanism in place or would that not work, hopefully someone releases an intercooler kit with viable solution for the asg

Seen these?https://trupowermotorsports.com/product/honda-cr-v-1-5t-charge-pipe-boost-pipe-kit/

I dont think the rear diff being a problem as older 4wd honda systems are being used in 1000hp+ aplications, even the stock clutch should be good for at least 260-270hp given any massive torque spike is tuned out, any good tuner should be able to do that its easy enough to modify the torque request table

A 27won turbo in the V should be hilarious???but i think around 240hp should be attainable with 98ron fuel on the stock turbo

i assume you are somewhere in europe where did you find the access bumper add on i cant find it anywhere in eu

The active shutter system is present in all CR-Vs. THE USDM 2017-2019 however have it in front of the intercooler as well, whilst EUDM (2019 onwards) have it only behind the radar/the mesh that has the logo badge.

I see you live in Gibraltar, so I suppose you dont have the lower active shutters system like in the USA, which means an aftermarket FMIC wont be such a problem. If you dont mind, upload a photo of the front of your car so we can verify.

If by a small chance you do have the shutters in front of the intercooler, its a bit complicated to remove them. Cutting them wont help and even if it did, you would destroy a very expensive part...I know of one guy who has done it. Upload a foto and if necessary, I 'll post here what he had to do.

240hp is possible indeed. The thing is that the car is really heavy (about 1700kg in my trim-called elegance, its doesnt even have the sunroof) so 240hp is not barely enough for the car. The suspension, brakes and chassis can EASILY cope with 300hp. Anything over that would probably need a BBK. And the clutch may hold up but the flywheel is shockingly heavy as well. We do not get rev-hang delete and even if we did, revs taking too long to drop would still be a PITA.

Suspension-wise, BC Racing has a kit for our cars that drops the ride height by 1cm. I have spoken with the Greek dealer and he confirmed after discussing with the BC Racing factory that they can provide a custom kit that does NOT drop the ride height, which is pretty cool.

Honda-Access can be obtained by any licensed dealer within the EU. If your dealer says he cant find it, then he is just too lazy to search the Honda EPC! Please see below pt numbers for platinum white pearl:

Front bumper
08P98-TLA-6S0

Rear Bumper
08P99-TLA-6S0A

Go to www.honda.de -> configurator and play around. You will find the original accessories with part numbers. www.parts-honda.uk can also most likely ship them to you.

Those CRV AWD systems used on other platforms are not 100% bone stock. They change the gears in the rear diff and use much stronger drive shafts. I do believe that the drive shafts will have no problem with torque up to 35kg, nor the main driveshaft but the rear diff is like a childs toy...dont know how much it can take and neither does anyone else for that matter! If we had the SH-AWD and the K20C engine the RDX has, I wouldnt even consider it to be a problem....


EDIT: For the pipes you posted, I dont see flanges on the pipes to bolt on the intercooler. I emailed them but forgot to ask about that.

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