- Jan 20, 2020
- Reaction score
- San Pedro, CA
- (Still waiting..) 2021 Honda Civic Type R, 2014 Mazda 6
Is the dealer honoring your 2020 price or is he reselling it to you including the price increase (MSRP w/o any additional markups)?Well initially I made a deposit for a 2020 but it never got built for some reason, so dealer has an incoming 2021 and they told me i’m getting that instead.
DMV does do that and be prepared to go through this process- Where are you buying the vehicle from?Why do we need VIN verification again? DMV doesn't do that? Also, pardon my ignorance, what is MSO?
Reason I asked is because i'm 2-3 weeks away of getting my 2021 from out-of-state and i'll be also doing the same process as what you did.
DMV does do that and be prepared to go through this process- Where are you buying the vehicle from?
Here is a breakdown from the DMV website on what you need to do in preparation for the arrival of the vehicle prior to registering it here in CA.
Whenever I bought a vehicle here in CA, all of those requirements were oblivious to me because it was already taken care of by the dealer. We pay the DMV fees and state taxes upfront and they do the rest. In my case as an out-of-state buyer, I was dealing with a dealership that sold a vehicle first time to an out of state customer. I had to obtain the MSO and process these documents on my own and then in the end submit them to the lien holder. (in this case, my bank). What's nice about my bank is that they have a dedicated DMV person who actually does nothing but title/registration for vehicles financed through them and visits the DMV to process the paperwork and pay for the registration fees on their behalf on a weekly basis. I'm not sure if your Bank can do this. Ask the person who processed your loan for you.
These are basically the 4 important documents you will need.
Ask for that MSO from the dealer once you close the deal. Everything else you process on your own except for the VIN Verification (that's filled out by whoever is verifying your VIN- do not sign the bottom of that form otherwise it will VOIDED).
- MSO (Manufacturer Statement of Origin) is basically your car's birth certificate. This is usually held by the dealer and you need to ask for this after you close the sale of the vehicle. (IMPORTANT- ask for it to save yourself some time upfront).
- A completed REG343 application for registration (fill this out on your own, but if the dealership knows what they're doing and fills this out for you, go through it to see if they've added info where it's not applicable (for example, my dealer added weight of the vehicle under the commercial vehicle field- that was a mistake)
- Smog Certificate (Be sure to run your car through an OBD2 drive cycle first before you go in for a smog test otherwise your new car will fail for sure. My buddy hooked-up his OBD2 before even running a test and told me it would fail unless I ran an OB2 drive cycle.)
- REG31 (VIN Verification) to be completed by a DMV employee or DMV Certified Verifier in your hometown. This will help you avoid unecessary trip to DMV and/or setting up an appointment at a local branch- (PITA).
Lots of fun isn't it? My bank required all wet-signatures, meaning they want to see all the original signed copies in ink for all the documents listed above. I thought I had already turned in everything, but Iater found-out that the REG343 needed to be turned in as well. So back to the bank I go again later this morning.
Well initially I made a deposit for a 2020 but it never got built for some reason, so dealer has an incoming 2021 and they told me i’m getting that instead.
Wait what? Do you have a signed contract/buyers agreement? No 2020 car then a 2021 but when (haven't seen much info on when these are due to arrive at dealerships). And working out the price? When a deposit is placed, a contract/buyers agreement is typically also created and agreed upon as this protects both the buyer and the dealer.Still trying to work out the price. If anything it'll still be a little bit below MSRP. The 2020 price they gave me is below MSRP.
The 2021 is set to arrive on 9/29 at the dealership. Atleast from where i’m getting mine from. I had a deposit for a 2020 but I guess Honda scrapped that batch so i’ll be getting a 2021 instead.Wait what? Do you have a signed contract/buyers agreement? No 2020 car then a 2021 but when (haven't seen much info on when these are due to arrive at dealerships). And working out the price? When a deposit is placed, a contract/buyers agreement is typically also created and agreed upon as this protects both the buyer and the dealer.
Back to the topic at a hand...
Honda dealership in Stuart, FL has a 2020 with about 2000 miles in SGP. Pictures look like good condition, asking $39.9 CPO. They dropped to 38.4 but that's still too much for what it is IMHO.
I am patient.
Oh it handles awesome! I couldn't tell you until now because I've been straight driving it most of the time until I found a corner to try on and man this thing doesn't body roll at all- it sticks to the road like it's magnetized to it!Typo before, it was 5000 miles. Negotiated to below MSRP. Came with an additional warranty year and the previous owner had already put on ceramic coat and window tint. I added wheel and tire protection which was I think a good deal at 600 for 7 years.
Had a nice ride home, smiled all the way! Thanks for all the great advice on the forum, made the process much easier.
You guys should have told me how well this car handles
Lol,Oh it handles awesome! I couldn't tell you until now because I've been straight driving it most of the time until I found a corner to try on and man this thing doesn't body roll at all- it sticks to the road like it's magnetized to it!
You should go down that same twisty road that Joe Raiti from Raiti's Rides on youtube drives on. I think he's close to Sarasota. Watch his video review driving that 2020 Boost Blue. Guy had a cargasm going around those twisties!!Lol,
I am in Florida, so mostly flatlands. Took a convoluted route home with lots of turns... Amazing.
I still can't imagine how well this car is GLUED to the road, I mean GLUED. When I gave it a turn, it went with the contours of the road and never diverted. And this was all in Sport Mode!! I haven't tried "R" mode yet. That's level 3 for me, but I did find it less jerky when shifting through the gears from 1st-2nd in comfort mode that I did in Sport mode.timtzots,
“You guys should have told me how well this car handles ”
Like Mr T said, it’s fun to drive, even like we do here in flat Florida. Here in panhandle Sally didn’t get to hurt it in garage- whew.
Once broken in, find a local autocross event so you can really check out the grip in turns. At nearly 8k miles and a year, I just got to do that. Hooked!
Corny but ... “If you think the Type R is fun to drive straight, wait until you dive in a turn and slingshot from the apex!” -Me