HONDA CIVIC 2017 LX 2.0L MODS/QUESTIONS

a c i d.f l y

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If you think about it. It sounds pretty And it looks pretty big. Do you think it’s possible? Also, Is a 1.5 cold air intake compatible with a 2.0 engine?
Nothing about the engine is compatible between the 1.5t and the 2.0. The 1.5t intake connects at the front of the engine, while the intake on the 2.0 connects directly to the throttle body which is on the back of the engine.

Nobody has turbo'd the 2.0na as of yet, so unless you really know what you're doing, not something I'd mess with. It would be cheaper/easier to buy a Type R crate motor, and even then you shoulda just bought the Type R.

Regarding the CVT, it has a proven ability to run on a track, dyno'd around 220lbft of torque without belt or cylinder scarring (using a modified 1.5t with CVT), so there's a bit of headroom from the 138wtq stock from the 2.0na.

Right now these are your options for tuning the 2.0:
Ktuner $449 (or Hondata)
RV6 Catless downpipe $320
RAI/CAI ~$2-300+ (K&N, Injen, AEM, etc)
Exhaust $800 (Invidia)
Cams $1400 (Skunk2)
Throttle body $70-120+ (may require an adapter and/or machining)

Non-engine upgrades:
Tires $200+
Rims $600+
Springs/coil overs $400+/600+
Lower torsion bars ~$100 each
Strut bar $80-100+
Carbon fiber body panels $700-1000+ each
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CCRIDER74

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Save your money! You're not going to get much bang for you buck on the 2 liter NA. Stick to exterior mods and enjoy the car for what it is- an economy commuter.
My $0.02
So if you drive the 2.0 cvt with technique that lets it perform at its best ,you'd be surprised.
I have stock lx coupe and have taken down plenty of 1.5t sedans. Its feeling how much throttle she will take b4 it's too much and knda like pouring a cup of gas on a match. It would just douse it and put it out , but if you put it in a bottle spray bottle and missed it on there then you might actually get some flameage. All I'm saying is lighter initial peddle and say around 4000-4500 rpm then peddle down . The vtech kicks in some here past 5000 or 5500 rpm but when you get it right the little sucker pulls pretty good. This coming from a Yamaha R1 pilot 200hp 460pound rocket. So yes getting ktuner + exhaust would defiantly be worth it I'm sure. Coil overs good tires and most cars will be unable to hang in corners with you!
 
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frontlinegeek

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The Hondata guys tortured a Touring model with CVT and they did indeed make it fail. I would bet the CVT in the 2.0 and the 1.5t is the same and that the cutoff for power and reliability is at or under the 200hp mark. Honda is limiting the Accord 1.5T to less than 200 and the 2.0T gets either a manual or a 10 speed auto. The ILX has over the 200hp mark and it has an 8 speed auto as well. Even the new CRV is limited under the 200/200 line and only has a CVT.

I would say that going too close to 200/200 on a CVT and certainly going over it, will not be a good choice on the long term. As sacreligious as it would be to some people, a dual clutch automatic in the Si would be a terrific option for some.
 

a c i d.f l y

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The Hondata guys tortured a Touring model with CVT and they did indeed make it fail. I would bet the CVT in the 2.0 and the 1.5t is the same and that the cutoff for power and reliability is at or under the 200hp mark. Honda is limiting the Accord 1.5T to less than 200 and the 2.0T gets either a manual or a 10 speed auto. The ILX has over the 200hp mark and it has an 8 speed auto as well. Even the new CRV is limited under the 200/200 line and only has a CVT.

I would say that going too close to 200/200 on a CVT and certainly going over it, will not be a good choice on the long term. As sacreligious as it would be to some people, a dual clutch automatic in the Si would be a terrific option for some.
This is what I was talking about (LINK), and they were able to run 220wtq (200-205 on a dyno) on a track for 6 hours without issues. It's not hp, it's torque that's the issue. More than that causes the belt to slip. They also didn't say the torque level that produced scoring, just that at 220wtq it was able to operate without scoring issues. Still, that gives about 62-67wtq headroom, and right now with tune and downpipe, it's only pushing 150hp and 140wtq (LINK). These folks were able to get 176hp/148wtq with intake, tune, downpipe, Invidia exhaust, and wheels (Youtube / Final Results *NOTE: with 6MT, not CVT).
 


frontlinegeek

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Still, that gives about 62-67wtq headroom, and right now with tune and downpipe, it's only pushing 150hp and 140wtq (LINK). These folks were able to get 176hp/148wtq with intake, tune, downpipe, Invidia exhaust, and wheels (Youtube / Final Results *NOTE: with 6MT, not CVT).
I would love to get those #s added to my 2.0 but without spending the difference of just upgrading to the EX-T here in Canada and just doing Hondata to it... It is not even $1500 + tax difference between the two on this side of the border. I SHOULD have got the EX-T but was not thinking properly at the time or something. Maybe I'll treat myself if the mid model refresh is compelling enough...
 

chryslersolis

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Save your money! You're not going to get much bang for you buck on the 2 liter NA. Stick to exterior mods and enjoy the car for what it is- an economy commuter.
My $0.02
You could’ve bought a manual instead of a CVT. Cause having a manual transmission has more possibility of improving performance wise. Cause you’re in control of the speed and engine failure is avoidable. Having a manual it leads to many possible improviment. Manual for life.
 

BoostedDreams

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You could’ve bought a manual instead of a CVT. Cause having a manual transmission has more possibility of improving performance wise. Cause you’re in control of the speed and engine failure is avoidable. Having a manual it leads to many possible improviment. Manual for life.
Save the manuals! They’re a dying breed!
 

CCRIDER74

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The Hondata guys tortured a Touring model with CVT and they did indeed make it fail. I would bet the CVT in the 2.0 and the 1.5t is the same and that the cutoff for power and reliability is at or under the 200hp mark. Honda is limiting the Accord 1.5T to less than 200 and the 2.0T gets either a manual or a 10 speed auto. The ILX has over the 200hp mark and it has an 8 speed auto as well. Even the new CRV is limited under the 200/200 line and only has a CVT.

I would say that going too close to 200/200 on a CVT and certainly going over it, will not be a good choice on the long term. As sacreligious as it would be to some people, a dual clutch automatic in the Si would be a terrific option for some.
Yeah I seen that on YouTube but they're on a track beating the s*** out of it for the equivalent of a trip from SF to LA but with twisties along the whole way .Hours at revs maintained for way longer than you're ever going to do on the street and then just change the CVT fluid every 10,000 miles or 15000 miles so it's not burnt and then getting hot they also make a cvt cooler I believe, and yes there are different CVT's for the turbo model and the LX model higher up models come with standard which is I guess beefier then just a CVT that comes in the LX 2.0
 

CCRIDER74

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Yeah I seen that on YouTube but they're on a track beating the s*** out of it for the equivalent of a trip from SF to LA but with twisties along the whole way .Hours at revs maintained for way longer than you're ever going to do on the street and then just change the CVT fluid every 10,000 miles or 15000 miles so it's not burnt and then getting hot they also make a cvt cooler I believe, and yes there are different CVT's for the turbo model and the LX model higher up models come with standard which is I guess beefier then just a CVT that comes in the LX 2.0
I'm pretty sure some point someone will come up with a wider band CVT belt or something you can do to it to make it better. And doesn't ktuner also need to make adjustments for the shift points or what not for all of the goings-on in a CVT if your changing the fuel Maps and vtec advancement. I mean don't they mess with it when they put their 20 inch or 18 inch Si wheels to a 16 in rim that transmission needs to be adjusted to new ktuned engine parameters I would imagine
 


chryslersolis

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Nothing about the engine is compatible between the 1.5t and the 2.0. The 1.5t intake connects at the front of the engine, while the intake on the 2.0 connects directly to the throttle body which is on the back of the engine.

Nobody has turbo'd the 2.0na as of yet, so unless you really know what you're doing, not something I'd mess with. It would be cheaper/easier to buy a Type R crate motor, and even then you shoulda just bought the Type R.

Regarding the CVT, it has a proven ability to run on a track, dyno'd around 220lbft of torque without belt or cylinder scarring (using a modified 1.5t with CVT), so there's a bit of headroom from the 138wtq stock from the 2.0na.

Right now these are your options for tuning the 2.0:
Ktuner $449 (or Hondata)
RV6 Catless downpipe $320
RAI/CAI ~$2-300+ (K&N, Injen, AEM, etc)
Exhaust $800 (Invidia)
Cams $1400 (Skunk2)
Throttle body $70-120+ (may require an adapter and/or machining)

Non-engine upgrades:
Tires $200+
Rims $600
Springs/coil overs $400+/600+
Lower torsion bars ~$100 each
Strut bar $80-100+
Carbon fiber body panels $700-1000+ each
This is what I was waiting for appreciate it man.. about the turbo and all that.. I'll see what I can find on those stuff.. I'm pretty sure it's possible. lol
 

a c i d.f l y

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I can't speak to the differences between the CVT's across various models, though looking at their components the CR-V 2WD, Civic 2dr and 4dr Turbo models look virtually identical, while the 2.0 CVT looks slightly different.

2017 CRV 2WD & Civic 1.5t
Honda Civic 10th gen HONDA CIVIC 2017 LX 2.0L MODS/QUESTIONS at-transmission-case-components-3075443


2017 Civic 2.0
Honda Civic 10th gen HONDA CIVIC 2017 LX 2.0L MODS/QUESTIONS at-transmission-case-components-3075453



Lastly, Ktuner does not change the transmission at all. The ECU does not control the CVT, it has its own control unit independent of the ECU, and adjust automatically to changing power loads. Ktuner adjusts throttle response and lowers vtec activation, nothing to do with the CVT.
 

frontlinegeek

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Yeah I seen that on YouTube but they're on a track beating the s*** out of it for the equivalent of a trip from SF to LA but with twisties along the whole way .Hours at revs maintained for way longer than you're ever going to do on the street and then just change the CVT fluid every 10,000 miles or 15000 miles so it's not burnt and then getting hot they also make a cvt cooler I believe, and yes there are different CVT's for the turbo model and the LX model higher up models come with standard which is I guess beefier then just a CVT that comes in the LX 2.0

These are true points.

Also, I still have to wonder if the cones (Pullies) and the belts are actually different (Material composition/friction coefficients) or not in the two different transmissions. But from what is shown in a followup post regarding the CRV with the same 1.5T motor, you are likely correct that the guts are indeed better for the turbo models. Which is good. It just surprises me as one would think that the cost to maintain two parts bins would outweigh the cost of the more expensive transmission. But when you are engineering to value, I guess every savings counts if the projection on sales of the 2.0 is higher than for the turbo models.
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