Honda Care and Oil Dilution

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Dannybles

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I wouldn't. Having torn apart the new direct injection engines and replaced the direct injection injectors, I haven't seen the need to. The engines that I tear apart that are clean inside all have 3 things in common: top tier gas, frequent/early oil changes, and OEM oil/air intake filters. Clean fluids and air leads to clean and happy engines. I haven't seen any gunked up valve issues with these engines.

Honda doesn't recommend any additives. I don't like using them.
Even the intake valves? I thought since none of the fuel was getting on them there was no real cleaning going on. And I’ve heard horror stories of people spending thousands of dollars getting the valves blasted with walnut shells and stuff.Even the intake valves? I thought since none of the fuel was getting on them there was no real cleaning going on. And I’ve heard horror stories of people spending thousands of dollars getting the valves blasted with walnut shells and stuff
I was thinking of using CRC spray cleaner but I don’t really know how about going with it. Are you saying not to clean the intake valves at all? Just to be clear I’m talking about the intake valves not any other valve.
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DRUSA

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@DRUSA
So one question;
I'll be driving 3 miles one way to work from home. What should I do for preventing oil dilution. I mean i'm trying to change my oil more often.
my concern mostly for winter season. Should I warm up my engine 5-10 minutes before go to work?
If you were really concerned about it, then yes, you could let the engine get to proper operating temp before taking off. Having said that, Honda has done A LOT over the past 30yrs to make engines get up to operating temps as soon as possible. This has been due to emissions, they want the catalytic converter to get up to temp as soon as possible.

I personally haven't seen anything at work that makes me concerned about oil dilution. Remember that the oil is 0w20, it's super thin. Frequent oil changes and sticking with OEM air filters will keep the engine happy for hundred of thousands of miles. I always push OEM air filters, after having lots of oil burning engines and ITB setups, having clean oil and good rod bearings means more to me than the hp gains.
 

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If you were really concerned about it, then yes, you could let the engine get to proper operating temp before taking off. Having said that, Honda has done A LOT over the past 30yrs to make engines get up to operating temps as soon as possible. This has been due to emissions, they want the catalytic converter to get up to temp as soon as possible.

I personally haven't seen anything at work that makes me concerned about oil dilution. Remember that the oil is 0w20, it's super thin. Frequent oil changes and sticking with OEM air filters will keep the engine happy for hundred of thousands of miles. I always push OEM air filters, after having lots of oil burning engines and ITB setups, having clean oil and good rod bearings means more to me than the hp gains.
Thank you very much!!! Because when i searched first time about oil dilution, people were saying warm engine up 5-10 minutes before driving specially winter season. Then I joined this forum and people saying 30 seconds to a minute is enough.
So warming up engine 5-10 minutes for short distance driving(specially winter season) is good thing to do.
thanks again
 

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Even the intake valves? I thought since none of the fuel was getting on them there was no real cleaning going on. And I’ve heard horror stories of people spending thousands of dollars getting the valves blasted with walnut shells and stuff.Even the intake valves?
Who is "they" and what engine are they talking about? I haven't seen any issues with these engines as far as gunk build up or deposits on the intake or exhaust valves. I see more issues with the actual direct injection injectors, but there is really no cleaning operation for those, just need to replace them as a complete set (which is usually under warranty for many miles/years).
 

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Who is "they" and what engine are they talking about? I haven't seen any issues with these engines as far as gunk build up or deposits on the intake or exhaust valves. I see more issues with the actual direct injection injectors, but there is really no cleaning operation for those, just need to replace them as a complete set (which is usually under warranty for many miles/years).
I think it is the K20 Type R engine. There was a post in the Type R section where the engine was at 60k miles and there is carbon build up on the intake valves.

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/oil-catch-can-yes-or-no.53445/post-863226
 


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Dannybles

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Who is "they" and what engine are they talking about? I haven't seen any issues with these engines as far as gunk build up or deposits on the intake or exhaust valves. I see more issues with the actual direct injection injectors, but there is really no cleaning operation for those, just need to replace them as a complete set (which is usually under warranty for many miles/years).
I can't say specifically but there's been a couple posts in this forum. But also with other manufacturers engines that have GDI systems. So I guess I'm asking how would you recommend cleaning the gunk off of the intake valves?
I apologize if I'm asking so many questions and it's annoying.
 

zspeed

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I can't say specifically but there's been a couple posts in this forum. But also with other manufacturers engines that have GDI systems. So I guess I'm asking how would you recommend cleaning the gunk off of the intake valves?
I apologize if I'm asking so many questions and it's annoying.
This is non-Honda but a Subaru FA20DIT
 
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Dannybles

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Yeah I’m trying to avoid having to pay for walnut blasting I bet it’s pretty expensive.
 

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How would the owner pay for his million dollar home and summer cottage if they weren't charging outrageous rates for simple jobs?
You could try to be an honest car dealer who lives in a one bedroom apartment and charges the lowest rates..... instead of just idle complaining. :thumbsup: In my book ball game and movie theater tickets are sold at more outrageous prices than car repair, and for this reason I never buy them.:thumbsdown:
 

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I think it is the K20 Type R engine. There was a post in the Type R section where the engine was at 60k miles and there is carbon build up on the intake valves.

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/oil-catch-can-yes-or-no.53445/post-863226

That pic is of the exhaust side of the head and it actually looks incredibly clean lol. IMHO I think a lot of you guys are overthinking this way too much lol. Don't compare Honda DI to other brands, comparing apples to oranges here. The ONLY oil dilution issue I have seen on any of the 2016+ models was a bad DI fuel pump at like 200k miles that was allowing fuel into the engine oil via the cylinder head/camshaft pump. Seen barely any injector issues as well on 10th gens, Pilots and Fits have issues. A bad injector will just cause light misfire, haven't seen any leak and cause a dilution issue.

Oil dilution is so low on my concern list being a 10th gen owner as well. I'd be more concerned about my a/c compressor/condenser/evaporator leaking on me out of warranty. I do one of those 3 every single day.
 


DRUSA

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Right on dude thanks for the heads up. I just wish dealerships weren’t so expensive
This is all relative.

While the dealer is more expensive, we have access to information that no independent shop has. When it comes to serious jobs, this is worth it's weight in gold. Anyone can do brakes, when every light is on the dash and a scan tool wont communicate with the car because the CAN line is dead that's where the dealer pricing pays off. Lots of bodyshops we do sublet work for that just throw thousand dollar control units blindly at cars when all they need is a calibration.

Oil changes and brakes, you can go to Joe's Automotive.
When the dash is a xmas tree, pay the dealer. They aren't B-series EK hatches anymore.

Having said that...it is to pay for the owner's 4th house lol:doh:
 

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Honda Service News Bulletin October 2018:

Customer's concern: "My oil level reading is above the full mark on the dipstick."

What is happening and why: This may be the result of oil dilution. This engine uses direct injection to spray fuel into the cylinder. During engine operation, a very small amount of fuel may stick to the cylinder walls and drain into the crankcase where it mixes with the oil. That fuel typically vaporizes and circulates back into the cylinders through the PCV system. However, when there is more fuel being mixed into the oil than is vaporizing, the oil becomes diluted. This in turn can cause the oil level in the oil pan to rise, which you will see when reading the dipstick.

What can be done: This is a normal occurrence with this engine. However, if there is a drivability concern related to oil dilution, there are published Service Bulletins with servicing information that may address it.


There were early on software issues with 2017-2018 1.5T CRV, repair was to perform a PCM software update and change the oil. I haven't seen this issue for Civic 1.5T.
 

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How would the owner pay for his million dollar home and summer cottage if they weren't charging outrageous rates for simple jobs?
Not defending greedy owners but I'm sure the overhead on an entire dealership with service center isn't exactly cheap.
 

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:thumbsup: In my book ball game and movie theater tickets are sold at more outrageous prices than car repair, and for this reason I never buy them.:thumbsdown:
I haven't gone to a movie or pro sports event in about 10 years because of that.

As I work in more industries I learn how (cheaply and poorly) things are made and completely lose interest. We get ripped off in so many areas it's truly disgusting.
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