High Pressure Fuel Pump

[Japsw20]

Any pictures of the NSX pump?

So it looks like the 4P pump is a GM LT pump modified with a different flange and some machine work (mounting flange and feed line is on opposite side) I have a new LT1 pump and it’s definitely doable on the hardware side but the problem is going to be running it on the Bosch ECU, the pressure relief valve even plugs into the Honda harness (ZR1 runs a Bosch ECU like us so who knows)

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[18RRtypeR]

So it looks like the 4P pump is a GM LT pump modified with a different flange and some machine work (mounting flange and feed line is on opposite side) I have a new LT1 pump and it’s definitely doable on the hardware side but the problem is going to be running it on the Bosch ECU, the pressure relief valve even plugs into the Honda harness (ZR1 runs a Bosch ECU like us so who knows)

Hence the reason 4P uses motec to tune it.

 

[davemarco]

I thought that 4P had tested a smaller HPFP upgrade that was compatible with the stock ECU?

 

[18RRtypeR]

I thought that 4P had tested a smaller HPFP upgrade that was compatible with the stock ECU?

Yes you're right I forgot...flows about 20 percent more than stock. I think hondata supports it...i use ktuner...and i wont be switching lol.

 

[RV6]

So it looks like the 4P pump is a GM LT pump modified with a different flange and some machine work (mounting flange and feed line is on opposite side) I have a new LT1 pump and it’s definitely doable on the hardware side but the problem is going to be running it on the Bosch ECU, the pressure relief valve even plugs into the Honda harness (ZR1 runs a Bosch ECU like us so who knows)

I thought 4P tested the upgraded pump with the stock ECU. How much is the LT pump? The NSX one is pretty tempting to try at ~$200.

Yes you're right I forgot...flows about 20 percent more than stock. I think hondata supports it...i use ktuner...and i wont be switching lol.

There was some rumors going around on the FB group that the upgraded Hondata pump was just a 1.5T hatch pump. I just picked a used one to play with. I will try post some pics soon.

 

[Jpierro79]

There was some rumors going around on the FB group that the upgraded Hondata pump was just a 1.5T hatch pump. I just picked a used one to play with. I will try post some pics soon.[/QUOTE]
Did you pick one up ? Also there’s got to be a better option that 1600 and requiring a motec or 2500 and getting parts you don’t need yet. If there was a high pressure pump only upgrade that functioned on oem it would sell like hot cakes.

 

[Night Fury]

There was some rumors going around on the FB group that the upgraded Hondata pump was just a 1.5T hatch pump. I just picked a used one to play with. I will try post some pics soon.

First victim of the Coronavirus (Covid-19) for Type R owners, launch was set for this month & nothing yet, 6 days left.

 

[davemarco]

California is pretty much completely shut down, so I'm not surprised.

 

[Jpierro79]

First victim of the Coronavirus (Covid-19) for Type R owners, launch was set for this month & nothing yet, 6 days left.

Not my quote but are you trying to say they think it’s a 1.5 hatch pump?

 

[Night Fury]

Not my quote but are you trying to say they think it’s a 1.5 hatch pump?

No, I just wonder if we will get lucky enough to get this kit before the end of the month. I was talking about time frame purely due the virus stoping everything worldwide.

 

[Jpierro79]

No, I just wonder if we will get lucky enough to get this kit before the end of the month. I was talking about time frame purely due the virus stoping everything worldwide.

I refuse to pay 2950 fir hondata fuel system upgrade. Here’s the first reason. On 93 octane you can max out the stock fuel all the way to 5500 rpm. After that your already at 11.8 afr and the stock turbo can’t outrun the fuel system so your turbo limited. This also means that you still can’t run full e85 stock turbo at full boost cause e85 takes 30 percent more fuel than 93 and hondata fuel system only adds 24 percent. The biggest number on hondata uses race gas which uses the same afr as regular pump. You can actually run leaner using less fuel. With that being said the 507 hp on a dynapack screen isn’t a race gas with full race efr7173 kit.. Dynapacks read Like crank hp they are NOT. true wheel HP. Dynojet is the closest and most reliable. The other number you see from full race is 544 on dynapack but I doubt it’s the EFR turbo cause they put that up right after they developed the garret turbo kit. The bigger garret also doesn’t spool till 4500. Q16 decreases spool time due to exhaust gases. Running e40 you can see the fuel system is maxed out at 477. Keep in mind dynapack reads more like crank numbers. That’s like 440whp. That’s hardly a fuel system upgrade for 2950. Dynojet print outs look like this.

you’ll either see rpm or mph on the bottom with the hp and Torque boxed. It will say dynojet. Mustang dynos can have similar print outs. It should always say dynojet. Those are often all over the place due to user settings. Dynojet and dynapack you can’t change output variables like mustang dyno. That dyno sheet is from a 700hp camaro zl1. In 95 degree weather. It’s not a glory pull either.
The reason dynojet works so well cause it uses a 3000lb roller and not a braking system. How fast you spin up the roller defines your output. With braking system like dynapack it doesn’t make real world like loads. The reason I said glory pull is with a car heavier than the roller you can add more ignition timing on the roller cause it will experience less resistance on the roller vs road. That camaro ran the same ignition on road or dyno with no ignition knock retard. With dynapack the resistance is not by weight like the vehicle so depending on scenario you can make glory pulls and will not translate to street power. That’s why I always finalize my tune on the street.
Hondata 93 octane onky makes 338whp in 74 degree weather with full bolt ons.
I explained all this so the public doesn’t just keep staring at glory pulls and understands not all dynos are created equal. NO ONE IS DOING 400 WHP ON 91 WITH A STOCK TURBO! 93 with meth injection puts you just at 400whp maxes out. Ask PRL. ask KTUNER ask IMV innovative motor works. 4 piston racing put out real dynojet numbers stock 280whp. So if you make 360whp on dynojet be proud!! If you make that on dynaack be prepared to be whooped by the guy who made that on dynojet!! Rambling on cause I’m so tired of glory pulls and bs numbers.

 

[seselectronics]

I refuse to pay 2950 fir hondata fuel system upgrade. Here’s the first reason. On 93 octane you can max out the stock fuel all the way to 5500 rpm. After that your already at 11.8 afr and the stock turbo can’t outrun the fuel system so your turbo limited. This also means that you still can’t run full e85 stock turbo at full boost cause e85 takes 30 percent more fuel than 93 and hondata fuel system only adds 24 percent. The biggest number on hondata uses race gas which uses the same afr as regular pump. You can actually run leaner using less fuel. With that being said the 507 hp on a dynapack screen isn’t a race gas with full race efr7173 kit.. Dynapacks read Like crank hp they are NOT. true wheel HP. Dynojet is the closest and most reliable. The other number you see from full race is 544 on dynapack but I doubt it’s the EFR turbo cause they put that up right after they developed the garret turbo kit. The bigger garret also doesn’t spool till 4500. Q16 decreases spool time due to exhaust gases. Running e40 you can see the fuel system is maxed out at 477. Keep in mind dynapack reads more like crank numbers. That’s like 440whp. That’s hardly a fuel system upgrade for 2950. Dynojet print outs look like this.

you’ll either see rpm or mph on the bottom with the hp and Torque boxed. It will say dynojet. Mustang dynos can have similar print outs. It should always say dynojet. Those are often all over the place due to user settings. Dynojet and dynapack you can’t change output variables like mustang dyno. That dyno sheet is from a 700hp camaro zl1. In 95 degree weather. It’s not a glory pull either.
The reason dynojet works so well cause it uses a 3000lb roller and not a braking system. How fast you spin up the roller defines your output. With braking system like dynapack it doesn’t make real world like loads. The reason I said glory pull is with a car heavier than the roller you can add more ignition timing on the roller cause it will experience less resistance on the roller vs road. That camaro ran the same ignition on road or dyno with no ignition knock retard. With dynapack the resistance is not by weight like the vehicle so depending on scenario you can make glory pulls and will not translate to street power. That’s why I always finalize my tune on the street.
Hondata 93 octane onky makes 338whp in 74 degree weather with full bolt ons.
I explained all this so the public doesn’t just keep staring at glory pulls and understands not all dynos are created equal. NO ONE IS DOING 400 WHP ON 91 WITH A STOCK TURBO! 93 with meth injection puts you just at 400whp maxes out. Ask PRL. ask KTUNER ask IMV innovative motor works. 4 piston racing put out real dynojet numbers stock 280whp. So if you make 360whp on dynojet be proud!! If you make that on dynaack be prepared to be whooped by the guy who made that on dynojet!! Rambling on cause I’m so tired of glory pulls and bs numbers.

This is something really hard to explain , is something I've been talking about long time ago, but for the people is very difficult to understand and you ending being the ''Ignorant'' for them.. .
But I have seen nice dyno charts btw lol. With our stock fuel system and upgraded turbo we can reach 400 whp and stock turbo we can get 370~380 whp I need to spend more time on the dyno and keep testing. I have got those number on 93 octane 95 degrees ambient Dynojet.

 

[ebatr24]

Resurrecting this thread to say that I am glad I am not alone in my goals. Found my car maxing out the HPFP real quick when retuning after just adding the PRL inlet, intercooler pipes, and switching to Hondata from Ktuner. I really just want to be able to squeeze the power I can out of this set up safely on pump, maybe even run a bit of ethanol to hit that 400whp number if I had that slight bit of headroom. Disappointing that a 3k upgrade is all that is available right now though. Anyone ever get that NSX fuel pump to give it a shot?

 

[kefi]

Resurrecting this thread to say that I am glad I am not alone in my goals. Found my car maxing out the HPFP real quick when retuning after just adding the PRL inlet, intercooler pipes, and switching to Hondata from Ktuner. I really just want to be able to squeeze the power I can out of this set up safely on pump, maybe even run a bit of ethanol to hit that 400whp number if I had that slight bit of headroom. Disappointing that a 3k upgrade is all that is available right now though. Anyone ever get that NSX fuel pump to give it a shot?

The XDI pump is being tested right now at Hondata HQ. E30 will get you to the 400 mark on a stock fuel system but extra care has to be taken with the parameters to get it on the edge without maxing anything out and losing pressure.

 

[ebatr24]

The XDI pump is being tested right now at Hondata HQ. E30 will get you to the 400 mark on a stock fuel system but extra care has to be taken with the parameters to get it on the edge without maxing anything out and losing pressure.

Sadly I don't think my car can handle running any bit of ethanol beyond e10 that is already in pump gas. Tuning with DRob he has had to keep pulling boost because of my HPFP being maxed out. Flex Fuel might be out of the question unless that HPFP is upgrade with either the Hondata FSU or if something else comes out.

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