Help with broken wheel stud

[sbace_hamb]

Bought some rear shocks off of rockauto and went to replace them with my day off yesterday. Last lugnut I went to remove on the rear driver's side wheel was stuck pretty good. I sprayed some penetrating oil and let that soak for a bit, then worked what I could, and then repeated. During one of my cranks, there was a loud pop or snap and the lug and stud started free spinning together. So here's where I'm at:

I attempted adding positive pressure to the nut by using a pry between the wheel and suspension, and then quick bursts with an impact. This seemed like it could work, but I was just one dude sitting in my garage with a floor jack, so I didn't have a lot of room or leverage to work with.

With the brake shield in the way and not a lot of clearance to work with, I couldn't get a visual on the back of the hub/stud, nor do I really know if our studs are visible from the back. There's a bit of back-and-forth wiggle, so the stud should be accessible either between the wheel and the hub or from the back of the hub, if they can be accessed that way.

Is it feasible/is there any foreseeable issue if I just decide to crank down and out on the wheel and attempt to snap the stud? Or any other suggestions if that's a bad idea? Otherwise, I'm just going to have to hand it over to my mechanic and let them at it. It would just be nice if I could get this resolved without paying the current labor rates.

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[bluehatch17]

I know the stud is like $7. But I didn’t want to deal with it. I got a single one replaced at a shop for like $60/70. Still worth it.

 

[sbace_hamb]

I know the stud is like $7. But I didn’t want to deal with it. I got a single one replaced at a shop for like $60/70. Still worth it.

Unfortunately, labor costs in my area are running at $150 minimum now, so depending how long it would take them to remove the stuck stud, I could be paying $100-$200 to get a $3 part replaced.

Did you have any issues with hub damage? Or was it just the splines on the bolt that had failed? If I have to replace the hub as well, all the more reason to try and keep costs down.

 

[dt10g]

Having a shop do it could make some sense if you don't have suitable tools to remove and reinstall it properly. (unless you consider tools as an investment, but you probably never use them again,..)

 

[KensBlueGenX]

The stud is just a press in, so the fact that it now spins means either the splines on the stud or of the hub are stripped. (Or both.)

Unfortunately the only answer is that the hub has to come off to facilitate the repair. If you don’t have the tools to pull the hub you will have to get the car to someone who does.

Sorry, bummer.

 

[sbace_hamb]

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Thanks, fellas. From what I was reading, it actually does sound like there's enough room to replace a single wheel stud in the rear without the hub coming off:
Driver rear wheel stud replacement | Page 2 | 2016+ Honda Civic Forum (10th Gen) - Type R Forum, Si Forum - CivicX.com

I've got plenty of tools, and I'm pretty comfortable working on stuff myself. Mostly just trying to figure out the smartest way to go about this without spending unnecessary money. I don't think I have enough info yet to decide and will probably try to get a better look this weekend.

The only tool I'm not completely sure I have is a grinder that can fit where I need it to, which I why I asked on intentionally trying to snap the stud. I would very much like to avoid putting a drill bit near my wheel if I can. Once the wheel is free, I can handle whatever is behind it. If the hub is damaged and needs to be replaced, so be it, the whole assembly is only $140 from HPN.

 

[KensBlueGenX]

Thanks, fellas. From what I was reading, it actually does sound like there's enough room to replace a single wheel stud in the rear without the hub coming off:

That's not the whole issue though. While wheel studs can be replaced, the real question is - why is it spinning in the hub? As I said, either the splines on the hub, or on the stud, or both are stripped. If in the hub, then a new stud will continue to rotate even with pressed into in place.

While yes, there are ways to Micky-mouse a new stud into place, the right way to do it is on a press. However, good luck.

 

[sbace_hamb]

That's not the whole issue though. While wheel studs can be replaced, the real question is - why is it spinning in the hub? As I said, either the splines on the hub, or on the stud, or both are stripped. If in the hub, then a new stud will continue to rotate even with pressed into in place.

While yes, there are ways to Micky-mouse a new stud into place, the right way to do it is on a press. However, good luck.

Oh for sure, I hear you there. Best case scenario is that just the splines are damaged, and hub is fine. I'd just rather find out for myself how deep I am instead of paying to find out and also paying to fix it. And like I mentioned, if the hub is damaged, it still costs less than an hour's labor at a shop. I appreciate the advice

 

[BrandonSmith]

Update?

 

[sbace_hamb]

Update?

Haha nothing solid yet, unfortunately, just haven't had the time. Went ahead and ordered the wheel hub, both for the fact that the hub is likely stripped and the bearing on that axle is going. My plant does a shutdown for about 2 weeks for the holidays, so I'll have a good amount of time in the next week or so to get at it. I got my dad invested in getting it fixed, so he's going to come by for an extra set of hands.

It's seeming pretty likely that I'll have to carefully drill out the nut, unless I get lucky. I'll just need lots of tape and a steady hand. I'll drop an update once I'm all squared away

 

[cryptolime]

The stud is just a press in, so the fact that it now spins means either the splines on the stud or of the hub are stripped. (Or both.)

Unfortunately the only answer is that the hub has to come off to facilitate the repair. If you don’t have the tools to pull the hub you will have to get the car to someone who does.

Sorry, bummer.

yea, much easier for a shop to deal with that. they have a press and all the experience and proper tools.

 

[cryptolime]

Haha nothing solid yet, unfortunately, just haven't had the time. Went ahead and ordered the wheel hub, both for the fact that the hub is likely stripped and the bearing on that axle is going. My plant does a shutdown for about 2 weeks for the holidays, so I'll have a good amount of time in the next week or so to get at it. I got my dad invested in getting it fixed, so he's going to come by for an extra set of hands.

It's seeming pretty likely that I'll have to carefully drill out the nut, unless I get lucky. I'll just need lots of tape and a steady hand. I'll drop an update once I'm all squared away

if you are replacing the hub, you might be able to just weld the stud in place to remove the nut.

 

[sbace_hamb]

if you are replacing the hub, you might be able to just weld the stud in place to remove the nut.

yea, much easier for a shop to deal with that. they have a press and all the experience and proper tools.

Good call on the welding, just not sure there's enough room from behind there. As far as easier for a shop, sure, of course, it's easier to pay anyone to do almost anything. I didn't get into working on cars because it's easy, though, and the satisfaction once this is fixed will be much greater than if I paid to have it done. Thank you for the advice

 

[BrandonSmith]

if you are replacing the hub, you might be able to just weld the stud in place to remove the nut.

Or just grind off the back side of the stud, pull the nut and stud out of the front of the wheel, then clamp the stud in a vice and remove the nut.

 

[cryptolime]

Or just grind off the back side of the stud, pull the nut and stud out of the front of the wheel, then clamp the stud in a vice and remove the nut.

that's probably a better idea considering not everyone can weld...but anyone can grind

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