That's so messed up. Disconnect the switch assembly connector, the 12 pin connector you showed in your first post, and measure the voltages on those four wires again? Do they all have 12V?
Should be a secure connection, I have a short piece of wire that i'm sticking into the connector and have the probe from the voltmeter at the other end of the wire.
If all the wiring have not been modified and you're seeing 0V in some of the switch wires, then the wire is either not connected to the motor control or shorted to ground. But then you're also seeing 8V when some of the switches are pressed so that sorta indicate something is drawing current and loading down the voltage when some switch is pressed. I think you should not drive with the GRN wire powered then. I think either the motor unit is fried or there's something seriously wrong with your wiring. Also can you measure the GRN voltage when the CLOSE button is pressed?
I do not drive with the GRN wire plugged in, I unplug it from the fuse box once I am done testing.
But it def goes to the motor though? If so, then it's probably the same harness. I checked the motor and the sub-sunroof harness between the sport canada and the 4 dr Si US and they're the same. So if you think there's reason to need to verify for sure, then you need to get to the motor and check the part number and match wire colors to the pins.I do not drive with the GRN wire plugged in, I unplug it from the fuse box once I am done testing.
Voltage didnt change or drop on the green wire when trying open/close the sunroof.
The body of the car is a hatch yes, but I believe the doors are from the Type R..
I took a picture of the wiring and sunroof motor, but doesnt appear to have the same sticker with part number as the ebay listings you have there.
Yes, the wires definitely go towards the sunroof motor..But it def goes to the motor though? If so, then it's probably the same harness. I checked the motor and the sub-sunroof harness between the sport canada and the 4 dr Si US and they're the same. So if you think there's reason to need to verify for sure, then you need to get to the motor and check the part number and match wire colors to the pins.
Anyhow, I drew a block diagram of the entire system including switches, power, LIN, and motor-control-unit. Ignore the labels inside the box. The pin numbers are the pin number on the motor unit connector (not on C143). CLOSE is the 1st position forward. OPEN is first position backward. AUTO is the 2nd position (hard press) forward and 2nd position (hard press) backward. In the 2nd position backward, both OPEN and AUTO will be shorted to ground. In the 2nd position forward, both CLOSE and AUTO will be shorted to ground. TILT is up on the back of the switch.
If you have reason to believe that the roof harness might be at fault and want to totally isolate the motor-control-unit wiring, then disconnect C143 and what you have on the sub-roof harness connector is only the Motor-Control-Unit box in the diagram. Then you can, if you can safely access the pins, feed in V+, GND, and measure the voltages on pins 7, 8, 9, and 14 (BRN, PNK, LT-GRN, and RED) and if they're the same as when C143 was connected, then you probably have a bad motor-control-unit, a bad connection to the unit, or it needs the LIN Bus (the motor unit might indeed require a signal on the LIN before it operates, however, I don't think the weir voltages can be explained by the absence of LIN but I could be wrong). If you see 12V on all 4 pins, then if you connect only one pin (I wouldn't play with the AUTO pin since it requires shorting two pins to GND together) at a time to GND, then the motor should move if the LIN Bus is not required. It's probably safer to try this on a junkyard motor unit. Obviously, always fuse power lines.
Yeah you are stuck until you get more detail knowledge of exactly what the motor needs to operate. Good luck.Yes, the wires definitely go towards the sunroof motor..
I want to say again how much I appreciate you helping out with this.. You have no idea!
At this point I feel like i'm at a loss.. probably going to forget about making this work
I might look around local junk yards for a motor unit and go from there like you suggested.
Just found this in a service manual..
It's totally possible for Honda to design the Motor Control CPU and switches to be powered from the LIN Bus while the GRN wire powers only the motor. However, the PNK switch has power and the other three don't so what's up with that?Maybe my next step will be to follow the white LIN BUS wire.
that's what I was thinking about trying..It's totally possible for Honda to design the Motor Control CPU and switches to be powered from the LIN Bus while the GRN wire powers only the motor. However, the PNK switch has power and the other three don't so what's up with that?
The LIN Bus carries the remote open/close commands. Can you open and close the windows using the key fob? I guess if you hook up the LIN Bus to the Window Master Switch LIN Bus and you still can open/close the windows using the key fob, then you didn't blow the LIN Bus.
Checked for continuity between terminal No. 34 and moonroof motor-control unit 14P connector terminal No. 12: There is NO continuityIt's totally possible for Honda to design the Motor Control CPU and switches to be powered from the LIN Bus while the GRN wire powers only the motor. However, the PNK switch has power and the other three don't so what's up with that?
The LIN Bus carries the remote open/close commands. Can you open and close the windows using the key fob? I guess if you hook up the LIN Bus to the Window Master Switch LIN Bus and you still can open/close the windows using the key fob, then you didn't blow the LIN Bus.
