Help needed to get sunroof working in Type R (I know, sounds nuts..)

[blacklightning.fk8]

With everything connected and power, measure the voltage of GRN wire. Is it 12V? Measure the voltage of one of the switch wires with and without the switch pressed. Does it change from 12V released to 0.2V pressed?

With everything connected and powered on, GRN wire does have 12v.
When pressing the open switch, I do get -12v on my volt meter.

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[bikejog]

And with everything connected and powered, what's the voltage

With everything connected and powered on, GRN wire does have 12v.
When pressing the open switch, I do get -12v on my volt meter.

You get 12V with the switch pressed? That's abnormal. You should get close to 0V when a switch is pressed. With the RED wire, you have to force the switch all the way back. Or you can probe the PNK wire and press the TILT switch. You see see it toggle between 12V and close to 0V.

EDIT: Sorry I meant the 4 switch wires should toggle between 12V and 0V when the switch is released and pressed. The GRN wire should always have 12V.

 

[blacklightning.fk8]

And with everything connected and powered, what's the voltage


You get 12V with the switch pressed? That's abnormal. You should get close to 0V when a switch is pressed. With the RED wire, you have to force the switch all the way back. Or you can probe the PNK wire and press the TILT switch. You see see it toggle between 12V and close to 0V.

EDIT: Sorry I meant the 4 switch wires should toggle between 12V and 0V when the switch is released and pressed. The GRN wire should always have 12V.

I also believe I didn't express myself correctly on my last post..
When I had my voltmeter on let's say the brown wire from C143, it was showing 0v.
When toggling the switch to open the sunroof, it goes up to 12v (or -12v).

 

[bikejog]

I also believe I didn't express myself correctly on my last post..
When I had my voltmeter on let's say the brown wire from C143, it was showing 0v.
When toggling the switch to open the sunroof, it goes up to 12v (or -12v).

Where did you put the negative meter lead when you probe, say, the BRN wire? On the GRN wire? If so that explains the -12V reading.

If negative lead is on GRN and positve lead is on BRN, then OPEN released will read 0V and pressed will read -12V. If negative lead is on GND, then 12V and 0V.

If negative lead is on GND and you read -12V, I don't think that's even possible.

 

[blacklightning.fk8]

Where did you put the negative meter lead when you probe, say, the BRN wire? On the GRN wire? If so that explains the -12V reading.

If negative lead is on GRN and positve lead is on BRN, then OPEN released will read 0V and pressed will read -12V. If negative lead is on GND, then 12V and 0V.

If negative lead is on GND and you read -12V, I don't think that's even possible.

I had the negative on a body ground

 

[bikejog]

I had the negative on a body ground

Yeah if you're seeing the voltages are flipped or -12V, then either the motor control unit is fried or the sub-sunroof harness is connected to something else.

 

[BABY NSX]

Wow, this is a really great thread for two reasons. First, is the whole swap thing is a cool thing (Is there a thread on the swap???) but secondly the knowledge that bikejog is giving. About 30 years ago I used to get a lot of the weird electrical issue jobs when I worked at Acura of Boston and bikejog knows his stuff.

bikejog, very admirable all the help you are giving! Takes a lot of time!

 

[bikejog]

Wow, this is a really great thread for two reasons. First, is the whole swap thing is a cool thing (Is there a thread on the swap???) but secondly the knowledge that bikejog is giving. About 30 years ago I used to get a lot of the weird electrical issue jobs when I worked at Acura of Boston and bikejog knows his stuff.

bikejog, very admirable all the help you are giving! Takes a lot of time!

Thanks Dude. I was working remote doing "team" work so the work load is alternating between team members so I had some free time. But it really didn't took that much time once I found the sunroof information and diagrams. It's a really simple system: power and LIN Bus goes into a self contained Motor-Control-Unit and it feeds and senses the 4 switches.

One unknown is if the LIN Bus is required. Even if it is and his system didn't have the required LIN Bus signal, it still shouldn't explain the voltage levels he was seeing at the four switch sense wires. The wire colors all seem to match so unlikely the wiring have been moved around. I guess the other end of the sub-sunroof harness could have been plugged into something else, but Honda is usually pretty good at using different connectors to prevent such errors.

 

[MaxPower]

First, is the whole swap thing is a cool thing (Is there a thread on the swap???)

Agreed. Honestly I'm not really following the electrical stuff, but I'd love to read more about the swap. @blacklightning.fk8 maybe you can start a new thread describing your frankenCTR? Sounds pretty wild, I've never heard of such a thing

 

[blacklightning.fk8]

Agreed. Honestly I'm not really following the electrical stuff, but I'd love to read more about the swap. @blacklightning.fk8 maybe you can start a new thread describing your frankenCTR? Sounds pretty wild, I've never heard of such a thing

First time i've ever seen one too.. compared it to real type R's in town side by side and couldn't find any differences.

 

[blacklightning.fk8]

Thanks Dude. I was working remote doing "team" work so the work load is alternating between team members so I had some free time. But it really didn't took that much time once I found the sunroof information and diagrams. It's a really simple system: power and LIN Bus goes into a self contained Motor-Control-Unit and it feeds and senses the 4 switches.

One unknown is if the LIN Bus is required. Even if it is and his system didn't have the required LIN Bus signal, it still shouldn't explain the voltage levels he was seeing at the four switch sense wires. The wire colors all seem to match so unlikely the wiring have been moved around. I guess the other end of the sub-sunroof harness could have been plugged into something else, but Honda is usually pretty good at using different connectors to prevent such errors.

I still have to double check those voltages, I just haven't had a min yet..

 

[BABY NSX]

Agreed. Honestly I'm not really following the electrical stuff, but I'd love to read more about the swap. @blacklightning.fk8 maybe you can start a new thread describing your frankenCTR? Sounds pretty wild, I've never heard of such a thing

Yeah this swap is cool. Reminds me of the old days when someone swaps stuff of a totaled Shelby Mustang onto their plain mustang. This is much harder than the 60s cars. Would love to see the history of like what happened to the CTR, like why it was scrapped and stuff like how long the whole swap took.

But actually I forgot that the OP I think bought it like that so the history is possibly unknown.

 

[blacklightning.fk8]

With everything connected and power, measure the voltage of GRN wire. Is it 12V? Measure the voltage of one of the switch wires with and without the switch pressed. Does it change from 12V released to 0.2V pressed?

So .. silly question.. when checking this, would I put the negative prong of the voltmeter on the ground? And the positive on one of the 4 colored wires that are for open, close, auto and tilt?

But yes, GRN wire does have 12v when I turn on the car.

 

[bikejog]

So .. silly question.. when checking this, would I put the negative prong of the voltmeter on the ground? And the positive on one of the 4 colored wires that are for open, close, auto and tilt?

But yes, GRN wire does have 12v when I turn on the car.

Man I thought you already measured it ref to GND. But yes, all voltages are measured in reference to GND. On the 4 switch sense wires, switch released should read 12V and pressed less than 0.2V. I think you said you're gonna connect GND to the black wire. If you don't do that, then check continuity of the black wire to GND to to be sure.

 

[blacklightning.fk8]

Man I thought you already measured it ref to GND. But yes, all voltages are measured in reference to GND. On the 4 switch sense wires, switch released should read 12V and pressed less than 0.2V. I think you said you're gonna connect GND to the black wire. If you don't do that, then check continuity of the black wire to GND to to be sure.

I did measure it ref to ground previously, but was using a bolt I could see and not the ground wire from the connector. (Which probably ends up the same)
I now have power tied in from the fuse box and confident that both GREEN and GND are good.

So this is what I got, doesn't make sense to me but..

Cyan - 12v with no buttons pressed, goes down to 0v when pressing close button.
Pink - 0v with no buttons pressed, close button gives me 8v and auto 0.5v
Red - 0v with no buttons pressed, Auto gives me 8v
Brown - 0v with no buttons pressed, close gives me 8v, auto gives me 0.5v

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