Hasport fk8 motor mounts

[ipeefreely]

From the sounds of it, i wouldn't do it before your track day. It'll be a rushed job unless you take it to a shop. You don't want to rush anything and miss stuff prior to going to the track. If you've read anything above, you may run into some issues. At the end of the day, depends on your skill. I don't know how mechanically inclined you are. It's not hard, but it still took time. You're tranny side will be the most difficult. You have to remove your intake, battery, and loosen the ecu bracket or however you can to make room. good luck.

Yeah I had some time to take a look at it and while the passenger side seemed easy to install, the tranny side is a whole different story. I think I can knock it out but rather not risk it before a track day. haha. Plus I'll probably be installing it alongside my HKS BOV to minimize redundant work. Thanks for all the help so far guys!

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[Type-JZ]

Yeah I had some time to take a look at it and while the passenger side seemed easy to install, the tranny side is a whole different story. I think I can knock it out but rather not risk it before a track day. haha. Plus I'll probably be installing it alongside my HKS BOV to minimize redundant work. Thanks for all the help so far guys!

have you done the rear mount, yet? I actually had a hard time getting that piece in. I worked under jack stands and didn't have enough leverage. Took me a few hrs, while it should've been 15 min.. Took a lot of pounding.
Yea, the pass side, you could replace in 10 min. I actually did that first and then waited until i did my intercooler to do the tranny side.

 

[ipeefreely]

have you done the rear mount, yet? I actually had a hard time getting that piece in. I worked under jack stands and didn't have enough leverage. Took me a few hrs, while it should've been 15 min.. Took a lot of pounding.
Yea, the pass side, you could replace in 10 min. I actually did that first and then waited until i did my intercooler to do the tranny side.

I couldn't get the rear mount in. Even with the quickjack, there just wasn't enough leverage / space for me to really pound the mount in. Ended up just letting my mechanic take care of it. I think I could've gotten the whole thing done in 10 minutes if I just had a lift. It was a really frustrating experience to say the least. haha.

I was thinking about doing the passenger side first but was wondering how it would affect me on track. lol. Better to just wait and do it all together when my BOV comes in.

 

[Type-JZ]

I couldn't get the rear mount in. Even with the quickjack, there just wasn't enough leverage / space for me to really pound the mount in. Ended up just letting my mechanic take care of it. I think I could've gotten the whole thing done in 10 minutes if I just had a lift. It was a really frustrating experience to say the least. haha.

I was thinking about doing the passenger side first but was wondering how it would affect me on track. lol. Better to just wait and do it all together when my BOV comes in.

lol. Well, we're not the only ones. I've seen some used ones for sale and the solid end looks all scratched up, so we know they had problems too.

 

[jcp227]

I just saw this thread and it was what I was looking for and thought this is a good place to ask my question. I have a RV6 front pipe coming in sometime next month and I am toying the idea of doing Hasport rear mounts at that time. I do not have a lift so is this something extremely difficult to do? Looking at these mounts under the car it does not appear difficult, however I have never done mounts before. Can anyone please give some insight on the installation and tools used? This post might be a little vague as I am somewhat a noob regarding this install but I do have good mechanical skills. I just want to make sure I have all the tools required when the time comes especially any kind of unique tools I might need. Thanks in advance.

 

[ipeefreely]

I just saw this thread and it was what I was looking for and thought this is a good place to ask my question. I have a RV6 front pipe coming in sometime next month and I am toying the idea of doing Hasport rear mounts at that time. I do not have a lift so is this something extremely difficult to do? Looking at these mounts under the car it does not appear difficult, however I have never done mounts before. Can anyone please give some insight on the installation and tools used? This post might be a little vague as I am somewhat a noob regarding this install but I do have good mechanical skills. I just want to make sure I have all the tools required when the time comes especially any kind of unique tools I might need. Thanks in advance.

 

[jcp227]

Thank you sir! It doesn't appear horrible except for having room without a lift.

 

[xGreyWorm]

I did it on jack stands just fine however I would recommend doing it with the frontpipe off if you going to be replacing that anyways. It’s not necessary but easier if you going to have it off to replace it.

 

[lorenkb]

OK, 62 durometer motor mount kit install complete. I didn't take enough pictures for a complete step by step, but here's some lessons learned and an overview of the process.

First of all, this is an all day job if you take your time. I did transmission mount first, engine mount second, and torque rod last.

You're going to need to move or remove a bunch of stuff on the driver's side. There's wiring harnesses clipped in to just about everything on this list; use a dental pick and patience to get them out without damage. Also, do yourself a favor and bag all the hardware in labeled ziplocs as you go.

• Battery - remove
• Intake - remove
• ECU - remove
• ECU harness/mount bracket - remove
• Battery tray - remove
• Batter tray bracket - remove
• Fuse Box - unbolt/unclip, but leave in place

After that, you need to unclip the main harness that runs on the driver's side framerail to the fuse box. There is a single hidden clip underneath the plastic tray. A straight pick inserted in the top portion of this clip will depress the catch and the tray will slide right off with little effort. Detail of the clip from the side:

And from the top after being unclipped. You can see how the bottom of the clip remains in the frame rail, and the harness is able to slide over just enough to gain access to the rear transmission framerail bolt:

You should be faced with a small disaster zone at this point that gives you enough room to work on the factory transmission mount:

Support the transmission with a jack, and get to work removing the transmission mount. This setup worked really well for me:

Out with the old, and in with the new. Here's the order that worked well for me.

• Transmission bracket mounted and torqued
• Framerail bracket mounted but loose
• Billet damper mounted to transmission bracket and torqued
• Framerail bracket torqued
• Jack up/down to line up holes for thru bolt and torque

I didn't have any real issues with my transmission bracket, unlike some other members here. Check carefully for any interference, and tighten slowly. I was a little worried about the fitment after getting the rear of the bracket seated, and noting the following gap at the front, but it snugged down without issue:

For whatever reason Hasport decided to take the easy way out and skip all torque values for stock hardware in their "instructions". Annoying. Here's the specs from Honda:

The engine mount side is a breeze compared to the transmission mount. Reposition the jack to underneath the oil pan. Unbolt and reposition the expansion tank so you can get at the rear framerail bolt and the lateral support bracket (sneak under the AC lines). I don't think I realized just how much the engine is settled on the stock rubber mounts, and ended up having to pry the engine mount off. Didn't take much, just enough to get it off the shouldered portion of the stud. Had I jacked the engine up a bit more, I think it would have come off by hand.

Order of operation on the new engine mount for me was as follows:

• Framerail bracket mounted but loose
• Lateral support mounted but loose
• Billet damper mounted to the engine and torqued
• Framerail bracket and lateral support torqued
• Jack up/down to line up holes for thru bolt, and torque

Also, don't forget to put the hose on the bottom of the expansion tank underneath the lateral support! I did, and ended up having to remove and reinstall the lateral bracket. For reference, hose underneath and hard to see:

The lower torque rod was a breeze; so much so that I didn't even bother to take pictures. Do yourself a favor and pull all the rear mounts for the plastic undertray so that you aren't fighting it for the rear torque rod bolt removal. Number one key for success is a bit of of quality grease on the rear bushings of the new torque rod mount. Without the forward bolt in place (forgot it the first time) I was able to push the mount into place by hand, no hammering required. With the bolt installed for round two, there was just enough interference to merit a couple of taps with the rubber mallet. I might have been able to wiggle the engine and skip the mallet, but I wasn't going to chance getting a finger pinched.

Other things of note: To do it right (torque), you're going to need a deep socket 19mm for the transmission mount stud, or crowsfoot. Crowsfoot 17mm and 19mm are required for the torque rod mount bolts.

Right then, on to impressions. I haven't driven the car yet, but did start it up. Full disclosure, I did not buy this mount set for instant performance gains. I don't have wheel hop issues because I don't launch the car. I bought this mount set hoping for one thing only: the visceral feel I remember as a kid getting to ride in a 1968 Cougar with a high compression 427. The 62 durometer kit met my expectation, and resulted in instant nostalgia grin on startup. Direct and deep vibration from the engine through the seat, and the occasional stumble that you can feel and hear from cold idle. Perfect

 

[lorenkb]

Short version of impressions after getting a chance to drive the full 62 durometer kit: all of Honda's hard work at reducing NVH has been successfully undone.

Vibrations at idle are very pronounced, enough to shake the hood. Frequency of vibration is just right to resonate and turn the cabin into a subwoofer. Decent back massage through the seat as well.

Vibrations off idle don't resonate with the cabin anymore, but you still feel them through the pedals, steering wheel, and shifter.

Transmission gear noise is now audible. Distinct difference in tone between on throttle, steady state, and off throttle.

 

[Type-JZ]

Short version of impressions after getting a chance to drive the full 62 durometer kit: all of Honda's hard work at reducing NVH has been successfully undone.

Vibrations at idle are very pronounced, enough to shake the hood. Frequency of vibration is just right to resonate and turn the cabin into a subwoofer. Decent back massage through the seat as well.

Vibrations off idle don't resonate with the cabin anymore, but you still feel them through the pedals, steering wheel, and shifter.

Transmission gear noise is now audible. Distinct difference in tone between on throttle, steady state, and off throttle.

I notice the transmission is more audible in lower rpms. Interesting noise. Sounds a bit like a tin can w/ bunch of loose bearings in it

 

[lorenkb]

I notice the transmission is more audible in lower rpms. Interesting noise. Sounds a bit like a tin can w/ bunch of loose bearings in it

Are you on 62 or 82 durometer mounts?

I'm loving the higher speed cruise gear whine; like a tame version of a straight-cut gear transmission. Down low in speed is definitely a more crunchy noise, especially the transition between on and off throttle.

The only thing I find annoying is the vibration in the rear-view mirror. Love every other aspect of the change in NVH. I know it's not for everyone, but this is how the Type R should have come from the factory in my opinion.

I've noticed that the vibrations at idle are worse at high temps VS low temps. I expected the opposite, but I've noticed the difference between morning and afternoon each time (~50°F in the morning, ~85°F in the afternoon).

 

[fatherpain]

Loren, thank you for the informative posts. Apologies I’m a noob. Would you recommend this motor mount upgrade for someone who daily drives?

It would seem an increase in NVH would be a negative? Or do you feel the stock type R is too refined?

Can you please share how the motor mounts have changed your driving experience?

Thank you sir

Are you on 62 or 82 durometer mounts?

I'm loving the higher speed cruise gear whine; like a tame version of a straight-cut gear transmission. Down low in speed is definitely a more crunchy noise, especially the transition between on and off throttle.

The only thing I find annoying is the vibration in the rear-view mirror. Love every other aspect of the change in NVH. I know it's not for everyone, but this is how the Type R should have come from the factory in my opinion.

I've noticed that the vibrations at idle are worse at high temps VS low temps. I expected the opposite, but I've noticed the difference between morning and afternoon each time (~50°F in the morning, ~85°F in the afternoon).

 

[ipeefreely]

Loren, thank you for the informative posts. Apologies I’m a noob. Would you recommend this motor mount upgrade for someone who daily drives?

It would seem an increase in NVH would be a negative? Or do you feel the stock type R is too refined?

Can you please share how the motor mounts have changed your driving experience?

Thank you sir

NOPE. Don't upgrade it if you just daily drive your car. It ain't worth it. haha.

 

[veehexx]

Loren, thank you for the informative posts. Apologies I’m a noob. Would you recommend this motor mount upgrade for someone who daily drives?

It would seem an increase in NVH would be a negative? Or do you feel the stock type R is too refined?

Can you please share how the motor mounts have changed your driving experience?

Thank you sir

edit: just noticed this post has mentioned both the engine mounts and the lower rear torque mount. below response is on the rear lower torque mount...

figured i'd chime in with the opposite and say it's well worth doing.
I've their 70a mount which has been installed for 3 weeks now and it's noticably smoother than when first fitted (ambient temps risen from maybe 10c to 15c avg in the UK).
Xtreme twin-plate and michelin cup2 tyres had judder and the worst wheel hop i've had in the car. after the mount, both have gone. shifts feel noticably better, accurate and no intermittent vaugeness i had with the factory mount.

Yes there is more vibration but the advantages outweight the negative. idle vibration just makes the car feel more focused and sporty and imo suits the typeR. I'd likely have a different opinion if it was the 1.0t/1.5t. maybe the lowest shore (62a?) hasport have would be better suited to these versions?
vibration is noticeable but not intrusive. worst vibration is around 1800rpm but can just downshift to avoid it. imo 70a is perfect and glad i didnt go for the next shore level (82a?). car is my only car, year round daily with track use. gets 3h long distance drives too and didnt notice the mount was fitted on 70mph cruise.

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