Hard wiring dash cam

Civii

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I'm upgrading from Apeman 420 to Rexing V1, 3rd Gen. It does have parking mode, but i'm not planning to use it for parking mode. If you want parking mode, you need a constant power fuse. I heard the parking mode sensitivity on the Rexing V1, 3rd Gen is low. If you want parking mode, maybe look at another one.
I was just asking because I was going to recommend it. My dash cam, VIOFO A129 Duo has parking mode and it works amazing. My battery is the exact same level after a day of not turning the car on. It barely drops even after two days of not turning it on. It’s great. I was thinking of getting the A129 Pro Duo.
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biosses

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I was just asking because I was going to recommend it. My dash cam, VIOFO A129 Duo has parking mode and it works amazing. My battery is the exact same level after a day of not turning the car on. It barely drops even after two days of not turning it on. It’s great. I was thinking of getting the A129 Pro Duo.

did you wired for the back cam also? My budget was $100. I thought about getting back cam also, but i don't want to mess with snaking the wire to the hatch door. I seen vid people doing the wiring to the hatch door, it's a lot of work.
 

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did you wired for the back cam also? My budget was $100. I thought about getting back cam also, but i don't want to mess with snaking the wire to the hatch door. I seen vid people doing the wiring to the hatch door, it's a lot of work.
Yes, both are hardwire to be on 24/7. I have a sedan so I don’t know how you would wire it to the hatch. I’m assuming it’s similar. I hid the wires in the headliner and behind the curtain airbag. To get to the back I ran it from the curtain airbag to the door seal/headliner and ran it through the pillar behind the driver seat. Same for the rear door and into the pillar near the rear windshield up into the headliner. It’s really neat and you can’t see any wires beside the ones going into the camera. It wasn’t too difficult and was relaxing.
 

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I was just asking because I was going to recommend it. My dash cam, VIOFO A129 Duo has parking mode and it works amazing. My battery is the exact same level after a day of not turning the car on. It barely drops even after two days of not turning it on. It’s great. I was thinking of getting the A129 Pro Duo.
Which parking mode (low bitrate, time lapse, etc) are you using and at what voltage cutoff?
 

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Which parking mode (low bitrate, time lapse, etc) are you using and at what voltage cutoff?
The highest voltage cutoff it allows. I don’t remember off the top of my head. My main concern is a dead battery but honestly, my battery barely ever drops low. I’ve never seen it below 13.5-13.8. It’s mainly at 14.something. Keep in mind, sometimes I won’t turn on the car for two days straight because of my days off from work. Sometimes I’m just bumming at home and don’t care to leave. It still records fine. For parking mode I use Low Bitrate. Only because I use a modified firmware to allow a higher bitrate and the other parking modes aren’t support with the modified firmware. Before the modified firmware I’ve used motion detection but to me, it seems a hit or miss with motion detection or the other ones that require an activation. With low bitrate I can capture everything, just incase something happens. I’m using honda hack to check my voltage. It’s on the status bar of my head unit.
 


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biosses

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The highest voltage cutoff it allows. I don’t remember off the top of my head. My main concern is a dead battery but honestly, my battery barely ever drops low. I’ve never seen it below 13.5-13.8. It’s mainly at 14.something. Keep in mind, sometimes I won’t turn on the car for two days straight because of my days off from work. Sometimes I’m just bumming at home and don’t care to leave. It still records fine. For parking mode I use Low Bitrate. Only because I use a modified firmware to allow a higher bitrate and the other parking modes aren’t support with the modified firmware. Before the modified firmware I’ve used motion detection but to me, it seems a hit or miss with motion detection or the other ones that require an activation. With low bitrate I can capture everything, just incase something happens. I’m using honda hack to check my voltage. It’s on the status bar of my head unit.


Quick question guys.....i'm using a fuse tap, the fuse for the dash cam is 5A and the original fuse from the car is also 5A. Is this okay? I was told the new fuse needs to be smaller than the original fuse (car) ?

Honda Civic 10th gen Hard wiring dash cam screenshot.140
 

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In order to distinguish which fuses are always on or turn on with the ignition, look at the fuse diagram in the owner's manual - All the fuses with the round brackets on the ampere rating are always on while those without the brackets are on with the ignition.

Hope this helps someone.
 

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Quick question guys.....i'm using a fuse tap, the fuse for the dash cam is 5A and the original fuse from the car is also 5A. Is this okay? I was told the new fuse needs to be smaller than the original fuse (car) ?
That's not an accurate general rule; although I understand what they meant.

My understanding is that the fuse's value is to protect the wires in the circuit beyond the fuse. I don't know if all the fuse slots deliver the same supply or not. But the wiring outbound of the fusebox differs in its ability to handle current flow.

The fuse that replaces the tapped circuit (and completes the circuit that you are interrupting) should never exceed the original fuse's value. The fuse that protects the 'tapped' wiring (the new power supply) should be rated for that particular (new) device's wiring (the thickness of the wires in the new device's wiring harness).

What I don't know is if the current flow is cumulative or must be summed together to determine the total draw. There's also one thing that I read about these taps where the new current flows through the original fuse... so the total draw of the two devices cannot exceed the original fuse's value.

My way of sleeping at night re: all this was to always pick circuits that exceeded the draw for what I wanted to connect. But that may be excessively 'tin foil hat'.

What I can say pretty confidently is that your accessory power supply (cigarette lighter) supplies 10 amps. You can split it or convert it to USB power with a plug-in transformer. Or you could disconnect the power wires behind it and run them directly to one or more devices whose combined draw doesn't exceed 10 amps.

I hope this helps in some way. And good luck.
 

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Quick question guys.....i'm using a fuse tap, the fuse for the dash cam is 5A and the original fuse from the car is also 5A. Is this okay? I was told the new fuse needs to be smaller than the original fuse (car) ?

screenshot.140.jpg
Hmm, I only used a 10 and 20amp fuse location. For the dash cam I used 7.5amp fuses to pair with the original fuse. I tried to keep it below what the fuse rating was. It’s been working fine and I haven’t had problems. If I remember correctly, I tapped into the Accessory for accessory mode and the wireless charging for always on. My vehicle doesn’t have a wireless charger so the fuse location was empty. I used the 7.5amp fuse for both.
 


 


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