I went off of this sticker on my car, used #17 since my car didn't come with CMBS. My dash cam comes on in acc mode
Unless your two devices draw more than 10 amps; I believe that you could split or 'Y' your current fuse #1 supply.
https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-RDA-HDWKT-Detector-Hardwire-Button/dp/B07BBVC7JQWhy not use 21? Interior lights. Also, what R3 kit did you get to hardwire it?
I wouldn’t use anything that’s for the engine, transmission, or airbags. Try using a door lock one. Maybe the passenger door lock?https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-RDA-HDWKT-Detector-Hardwire-Button/dp/B07BBVC7JQ
#21 you referring to is on the outside fuse box, in the engine bay. I rather not mess with that by making wiring too complex, i rather use inside fuse box, more straight forward.
I think either #4 or #17 will work, depending on your car, you need to check the sticker near the interior fuse box.
I thought about using the door lock. Tried using the door lock. Also tried using the power window fuse. Neither have a completed circuit unless you're locking/unlocking the door or opening/closing the windows
What dash cam are you using? Does it have parking mode?yeah, i stay away from those. The door lock ones, driver or passenger lock is ALWAYS on, means my dash cam will be always on.
I'm upgrading from Apeman 420 to Rexing V1, 3rd Gen. It does have parking mode, but i'm not planning to use it for parking mode. If you want parking mode, you need a constant power fuse. I heard the parking mode sensitivity on the Rexing V1, 3rd Gen is low. If you want parking mode, maybe look at another one.What dash cam are you using? Does it have parking mode?