Had to use the actual key

[Mocha90210]

assuming you have checked it but. As for the non-drivers windows not rolling down. Did you check to make sure the windows are not locked out by the switch on the drivers door?

Yup I'm sure. I was opening all the windows and sunroof by holding down the unlock button on the fob. The other three windows opened, so did the sunroof.

Sponsored

 

[richard_cos]

I found this thread because I had a similar experience today. 2016 Honda Civic Touring with 1700 miles.
All this occurred with the key fob in my pocket. Parked the car. Opened the Trunk. Closed the Trunk. Went into an office for a few minutes. Came out. Opened the Trunk. Closed the Trunk. Went to open the door by touching the handle and it would not unlock. Trunk handle would no longer open the trunk. The Turn signal lights were all on solid.
Removed key fob from pocket. Tried the key fob buttons but they would not unlock the doors or trunk. Tried the mechanical key in the key fob and it turned but did not unlock the car (I did not feel any kind of mechanical feedback). I could not call Honda Road Side Assistance because my phone was in the car. Since I was only going to be in the office a few minutes I left it in the car attached to the car play usb port.
Went to find help and we came outside. While calling Honda Roadside Assistance (about 1/2 hour after the incident began) the turn signal lights turned off and the key fob now unlocked the doors. The car would start and everything seemed normal. I was most concerned about the mechanical key not working. It seemed like a serious design flaw if there needed to be power to use the key. So, I turned the car off and tried the key again. This time it locked and unlocked the doors and I could feel definite mechanical feedback. This was totally different then the earlier attempts to use the mechanical key.
When I finally went to drive away there was no sound from the iPhone through Apple Car Play. I tried other sources. No XM, No FM, No AM. Turned the car off and started it again. Still no sound. Turned the car off, waited a few minutes, and started it again. This time the sound returned. May or may not be related.
I have read some other messages regarding similar experiences with the mechanical key and one regarding the phone being inside the car. A possible clue to reproducing the problem since this is the first time I have ever left the phone in the car attached to the usb port. I may try that tomorrow -- with the windows rolled down of course.

 

[m2hoover]

Happened to me tonight on my keyless. Opened trunk with rubber button on trunk; put in bags, shut trunk; turn lights all came on steady; went to get in and it would not unlock; tried key fob and it blinked but no buttons worked; tried key and it rotated but would not unlock. Kept trying with no luck. Lights went off, still can't get in. Tow truck comes tomorrow to take to dealer. Sons homework and computer inside- wonder if the teacher will believe this story. 2016 Civic Ex-L. I did try both sides and putting phone far away from fob, I even killed the Bluetooth on iPhone 6s. Really glad no zombies were coming. UPDATE- took to dealer via tow. They can't get in, they have a call into Honda engineers. I filed a case with Honda- wow they truly don't care and want you to work through dealer. I have a loaner. Be interesting how this pans out. And the Maint supervisor and staff are all perplexed how the mech key will not work. I shared this thread and said maybe it isn't connected?? Impossible they say, it is all checked on delivery. Could be it came off ??? They are pretty good guys down there and have always treated me right and fair.

 

[CIVicALIZED]

wondering if carplay / apple phones are the problem? I recently switched to a Samsung S7 and so far since then i have not had this problem again. It only happened to me once and at that time i had a iphone 5.

 

[Boz]

This is really concerning! Why Honda design it so ANY situation or fault not allow the mechanical door lock to work!?

 

[m2hoover]

Happened to me tonight on my keyless. Opened trunk with rubber button on trunk; put in bags, shut trunk; turn lights all came on steady; went to get in and it would not unlock; tried key fob and it blinked but no buttons worked; tried key and it rotated but would not unlock. Kept trying with no luck. Lights went off, still can't get in. Tow truck comes tomorrow to take to dealer. Sons homework and computer inside- wonder if the teacher will believe this story. 2016 Civic Ex-L. I did try both sides and putting phone far away from fob, I even killed the Bluetooth on iPhone 6s. Really glad no zombies were coming. UPDATE- took to dealer via tow. They can't get in, they have a call into Honda engineers. I filed a case with Honda- wow they truly don't care and want you to work through dealer. I have a loaner. Be interesting how this pans out. And the Maint supervisor and staff are all perplexed how the mech key will not work. I shared this thread and said maybe it isn't connected?? Impossible they say, it is all checked on delivery. Could be it came off ??? They are pretty good guys down there and have always treated me right and fair.

UPDATE: issue resolved- it was a bad antenna in the driver door handle that caused the BCM to error out; once the codes cleared couldn't really find any issue, but they replaced the BCM anyway just to be sure. The reason the mechanical key would not work is that the actuator arm was off the mechanism inside the door. It is a rod that slides in, it had to be that way from the factory (even though I thought I verified that when I bought it). They replaced all the mechanical parts and it works now. They used a slim jim to open the door; Honda Tech line told them to bust the window or cut the door- luckily I have a great dealer and they were like WOW got to be a better way. The tech told Honda that I had found other instances of this online and they told him it was impossible, as this is the first case of this they have ever heard. So glad this forum exsists.

Bottomline: if you have the keyless entry, I suggest you verify that your mechanical key does in fact work! Thankfully I wasn't in a riot or had a kid in the car. I have a 2016 Civic EX-L with the lane departure and lane keep assist; I have an Iphone 6s at the moment and I use carplay all the time. I have the autolock enabled. The 2016 Accord they loaned me was very buggy on the infotainment and honestly was more annoying than pleasurable.

 

[dino81]

So my stupid 2017 hatch is doing this. But it was consistent. I disconnected the battery and let it sit 5 mins. Reconnected it and so far so good

 

[m2hoover]

So my stupid 2017 hatch is doing this. But it was consistent. I disconnected the battery and let it sit 5 mins. Reconnected it and so far so good

How did you get in?

 

[Mocha90210]

So my stupid 2017 hatch is doing this. But it was consistent. I disconnected the battery and let it sit 5 mins. Reconnected it and so far so good

Sorry to hear they haven't fixed the problem yet. It is so rare and tough to replicate, it might be a while before they figure it out. If at all.

Were you eventually able to get in using the remote? Or did you still have to use the key?

 

[dino81]

Just my comfort access wasn't working (touch handle or button on handle)... my fob still worked but I did make sure my key worked too. So I disconnected the battery, let it sit 5 mins, reconnected it and both touch and button are working now. We will see if it does it again.

 

[majesticblue]

Had my Civic sedan for just over a month and this has happened twice. Can't remember if I opened the trunk first, but the fob wouldn't open the doors and I had to use the actual key to get in the vehicle. The comfort access button on the handle wouldn't work and the FOB wouldn't work. Tonight, I walked up to the car after leaving work and the FOB wouldn't work. I got in using the key, but had no power to anything. No lights, no horn, no red glowing button to start the car, nothing. Thought the battery was dead. Got a jump start and the car ran fine. Got it home, hooked the battery to a charger and the charger indicated the battery was at 100%. The charger has an alternator checker on it and it showed the alternator was putting out 100%. Checked for loose battery terminals and both were on solid. When I moved each cable the entire battery moved, so the terminals were on tight. Checked the lead ground wire and it was firmly attached to the frame. The power lead from the battery to the underhood fuse box were both very tight. Checked the fuses and each of them seemed to be in firmly. Checked for codes using an OBDII checker and no codes were stored. Very strange. Next time it happens I'll shoot a video. Calling the dealer tomorrow to get this on record.

 

[kolokot]

It happened to me yesterday on a shopping mall parking lot. My wife and I came out of the shopping, opened the trunk and put the shopping bags in, closed the trunk, and then attempted to open the driver side door, but it was not working. Tried the remote control thing, it did not work either. Took out the physical key and tried it, to no avail. It would turn, but the door remained locked. The lights, not the main ones, were on. After waiting forty five minutes, I tried again and the physical key opened the door, which initiated the alarm, but then the remote worked well in stopping the alarm. The car then was working normally as if nothing happened. I made an appointment with the dealership for this Thursday, will see what they say and do about it. Needless to say, I am worried.

 

[zsmith]

This happens so rarely, if any of you actually get the dealer to reproduce it, go buy a lottery ticket!!

I actually had this issue while I was picking my car up from the dealer for the recalled parking break software update. They gave me the key and when I went out to get my car it wouldn't unlock and the turn signals were solidly lit just like everyone else. Their "master tech" came out to look at it and had no idea what was going on. After about 20 mins they got me into the car and checked to see if it threw any codes (it didn't) and said to come back if it ever happens again. Guess I should go buy a lottery ticket.

 

[dino81]

Disconnect the negative battery terminal gentleman. Mine hasn't done it since. First time it happened was within 400 miles on the dash. I'm at a whopping 1k now

 

[Boz]

Disconnect the negative battery terminal gentleman. Mine hasn't done it since. First time it happened was within 400 miles on the dash. I'm at a whopping 1k now

Wow! So how do you start your car with the negative battery terminal disconnected?

Sponsored