Got rear ended yesterday :(

DETHRONE

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Totaled, there's structural damage. Hatch was pushed into both quarter panels and the unibody clearly has damage you can see in the pics (right below the hatch/above bumper).
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syndragore

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Well I showed to the body shop today and they seem to think it won't be totaled. I'm a bit surprised myself. Not sure if I should be pleased or disappointed by this. Although now that the Bay Area seems to be entering a lockdown I'm not sure they'll still take it in...
 

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I would not accept that as repairable. The repair shop will likely throw on some fresh painted salvaged parts, pull the creases out and call it good without assessing any secondary damage. Would you mind posting the quote for the damage?

As a California resident, you do have the right to pursue a legal claim against the driver who hit you as California is not a no fault state for auto insurance.
 
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syndragore

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So the estimate from the body shop came in and it's around $13,000 for the repairs. They are saying they won't total it. Not sure what I should do..
 

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So the estimate from the body shop came in and it's around $13,000 for the repairs. They are saying they won't total it. Not sure what I should do..
Get an attorney that specializes in this. Also, are you okay over all? Soft tissue damage is no joke and can literally fuck with you years later down the road
 


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syndragore

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Get an attorney that specializes in this. Also, are you okay over all? Soft tissue damage is no joke and can literally fuck with you years later down the road
I'll start looking into it. So far I think I'm fine but I should probably get myself checked out to be safe.

Is anyone familiar with the process for pursuing a diminished value claim in CA?
 

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I'll start looking into it. So far I think I'm fine but I should probably get myself checked out to be safe.

Is anyone familiar with the process for pursuing a diminished value claim in CA?
Check an expert on both things, medical and legal - a doctor and (your) lawyer! Good luck, sorry about your car :(
 

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I was stopped at a red light when my civic got slammed into by the car behind me. Do you guys think this will get totaled? I’m heartbroken right now.

1BB85F6B-C2EB-4BA5-9E14-7F888D2B2835.jpeg


You've lost your trunk!

ROAD KILL. You're just grinding metal..

EDIT: Oh, yah, it's totaled. They may tell you it's not, but I would never take that car back. That just looks like an internal structure f*ck. :/
 
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syndragore

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EDIT: Oh, yah, it's totaled. They may tell you it's not, but I would never take that car back. That just looks like an internal structure f*ck. :/
When you say you would never take that car back, what do you mean exactly? My understanding is if the insurance company decides not to total my car there isn't exactly much I can do to convince them otherwise.
 

charleswrivers

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Whatever is decided... make sure you get additional money to cover the loss in value of the car. I got my car keyed and got a depreciation check that pretty most covered most of the deductible back when I had it at $500... and that was for my paint getting keyed. Not the rear end smashed in.

It looks like an awful lot of damage to me... but it's not your power/drivetrain so (shrug) maybe so. They have to make it as good as new. Accept nothing less. If they sink $13,000 to fix a 2 year old car valued at maybe $20k or so and don't get it right the first time... make them pour the additional thousands and take it in the ass to make everything as good as the moment before the accident. Ever creak... pop... steering feel... everything... and look into the diminished value and get yourself some money back through the insurance you'll never get back during a future trade.

https://www.carfax.com/blog/accidents-and-car-prices
 


FC3L15B7

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When you say you would never take that car back, what do you mean exactly? My understanding is if the insurance company decides not to total my car there isn't exactly much I can do to convince them otherwise.
From your point of view, if ever you wanted to resell it, it's been in a major accident. One CarFax and no one will want it or they will beat you to the dirt on price. If the buyer doesn't pay for a CarFax or similar report, by law, you still have to tell them. If I were in your position, I would tell the insurance company you are not willing to accept the car back due to the amount of damage, depreciation to its resale value and difficulty selling it with a major accident recorded.

Something tells me the insurance company is not going to pay 13k to fix a car worth 24k, but they might. Usually they factor the cost of the repair twice - that is to say it's 13,000 now and if it gets written off next year or even hit just as bad, that's another 13k (or let's say 22,000 if it's a write off). Then they have paid more out than the car's current value or even more than it was worth when it was new. ;)

The car is probably worth 12,000 at auction. If it sells for 12k (let's not include premiums and fees for the ease of calculation) and they pay out 24k, they're only out 12k, not 13k for repair and the risk of another accident and even more money. These guys are slick as snot - they know it's not worth the risk when they can spend just as much paying it out and grinding the write off through an auction.
 

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Whatever is decided... make sure you get additional money to cover the loss in value of the car. I got my car keyed and got a depreciation check that pretty most covered most of the deductible back when I had it at $500... and that was for my paint getting keyed. Not the rear end smashed in.

It looks like an awful lot of damage to me... but it's not your power/drivetrain so (shrug) maybe so. They have to make it as good as new. Accept nothing less. If they sink $13,000 to fix a 2 year old car valued at maybe $20k or so and don't get it right the first time... make them pour the additional thousands and take it in the ass to make everything as good as the moment before the accident. Ever creak... pop... steering feel... everything... and look into the diminished value and get yourself some money back through the insurance you'll never get back during a future trade.

https://www.carfax.com/blog/accidents-and-car-prices

Quick question, did you do anything to proof depreciation of the car? I'm going through a cliam right now, it was the other driver's fault. Driver's insurance (state farm) wants ME to proof that my car depreciate.
 

charleswrivers

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Quick question, did you do anything to proof depreciation of the car? I'm going through a cliam right now, it was the other driver's fault. Driver's insurance (state farm) wants ME to proof that my car depreciate.
Nope. They just spoke to me and asked if I wanted a check or to get a credit on my deductible and I chose the latter. I got a check for my Xterra years ago when it got rear ended. This was through GEICO. I think they do it automatically but if they didn’t... I’d be calling and asking for them to assess depreciation. I don’t know if there are industry standards for assessing accident depreciation, but GEICO seems to have it locked down. Despite the accident and my expectation to get something around KBB fair value on the Xterra when I did a trade (accident plus a massive amount of undercarriage rust and the start of some body rust on the hatch).
 

Gruber

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Fortunately or unfortunately, this was a very central hit straight to the back and into the hatch thanks to the shape of the car at fault. It could cost much more to repair if it was more to either side destroying a fender and/or hitting around a wheel, or if it went lower into the exhaust. So it's possible there is no structural damage at all, and it might be completely fine after repair.

Of course this doesn't solve the loss of value issue related to a car simply having a black spot on it for being in an accident. You definitely need to ask for this. The amount of resistance will depend on the name of other drivers insurance company.
 

FC3L15B7

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Quick question, did you do anything to proof depreciation of the car? I'm going through a cliam right now, it was the other driver's fault. Driver's insurance (state farm) wants ME to proof that my car depreciate.
Don't take my word for it - you can read this excerpt:

Why Does a Car Depreciate After an Accident?
There’s the immediate reason for car depreciation, and that’s because your car looks worse than it did before. Whether it’s a minor dent, a broken window, the front end is smashed in, or the car is nearly totaled, it doesn’t have the same resale appeal that it used to.

Sure, you can get the damage repaired through your insurance. But even fully repaired, the depreciation value of a car after an accident is still present. Even with all new parts and no sign of damage anywhere, you can’t command the same resale value.

That’s because there’s now accident history on the vehicle history report. When you try to sell your car, the buyer will pull a Carfax report and discover the accident. If there’s an identical vehicle – same make, model, year, mileage, and condition – but yours has an accident on record, which one do you think a buyer will choose? The answer is: NOT YOURS. You have to lower the price to make it enticing to sell, hence car depreciation after accident.

Normal Car Depreciation Rate
As soon as you drive a new car off the lot, it depreciates 20 percent or more. New car depreciation occurs simply because it can never be sold as new again. Within the first year, it will further depreciate up to 20 percent more. The car depreciation rate by model also factors in - most domestic brands depreciate more than import and luxury brands, but only by a few percent.

Within the first three years, a vehicle depreciates roughly by 40 to 55 percent of its new car value in normal operating conditions. Obviously, it depends on how well the car is maintained.

And within roughly five years, average car depreciation slows, losing around another 10 to 15 percent. In real-world conditions, you can expect that a car will be worth around 35 to 50 percent of its new price after five years.

Depreciation Value of a Car After an Accident
But throw an accident into the mix and the numbers are way lower. A car with an accident on the vehicle history report or still evident on the vehicle simply doesn’t command the same resale price.

At any stage, the car depreciation rate is about 10 to 25 percent more than the normal rate. Factors include the vehicle’s age and post-accident condition. Cars that have been fully repaired will have less depreciation and cars with more extensive repairs or incomplete repairs will see higher depreciation rates.
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