Got my Ultra Racing lower rear bar and I don't have a clue

DarkLight

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IT's been almost a month since the install. Any impression updates?
Yes! Sorry, this got pushed back because of my front pipe project.

This brace has been good to me. I’ve been periodically checking the torque and it hasn’t loosened up at all. I’ve been jacking the car up multiple times this month and one thing I’ve noticed is that when jacking up the rear on one side, both sides come up at the same time. The rear end didn’t use to be that stiff!

The difference it makes is similar to the trunk brace, but it’s not quite as pronounced. I would say it’s a complementary brace, not an essential one.

The best way I can describe it is that it feels very neutral during cornering. It reduces understeer and makes the rear suspension work a bit harder. You won’t feel a noticeable change in steering response or an increase in ride harshness like the trunk brace.

Having installed all of them, the biggest improvements come from the rear braces.

If you only buy one brace, buy the 4 point trunk brace. It improves steering feel as much as the strut brace and makes the rear feel so much more planted. Once you install it, you’ll realize how just much chassis flex there is in the rear.

3B3F4D2A-34D3-4333-B939-494A03E2769F.jpeg


I also installed the subframe brace, and felt almost no difference with stock-ish suspension. I wouldn’t recommend that one unless you’ve substantially upgraded the front suspension. It’s also very difficult to install, compared to the others. Plus it makes it harder to use the jack point on the subframe.

F48A9CD3-0EFC-40D2-A025-214A037E955A.jpeg


The front power brace, which goes just behind the OEM radiator brace, is easy to install and works primarily by preventing flex in the most flex prone area, at the end of the “k” arms. It changes steering feel and increases front end grip, but not as noticeably as the strut bar.

C9505C5D-63B9-4647-9E6E-C4D7B115BAC2.jpeg


Regarding the middle lower brace, it cannot be installed except on the hatch, si, and ctr because the bolts needed to install it are not present. So, it requires riv-nuts if you have an FC1/2 like me.

Cliffs:

-Front strut bar: essential

-Front power brace: complimentary

-Front subframe brace: complimentary

-Middle lower brace: complimentary

-Rear lower brace: complimentary

-4 point trunk brace: essential

 
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pinhead66

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Whats the difficulty of install on the trunk brace? And is the benefits really worth the $175+ with discount? I already have a front strut brace and was pleasantly surprised with the added steering feel. Would like to tighten up the rear as well.


Yes! Sorry, this got pushed back because of my front pipe project.

This brace has been good to me. I’ve been periodically checking the torque and it hasn’t loosened up at all. I’ve been jacking the car up multiple times this month and one thing I’ve noticed is that when jacking up the rear on one side, both sides come up at the same time. The rear end didn’t use to be that stiff!

The difference it makes is similar to the trunk brace, but it’s not quite as pronounced. I would say it’s a complementary brace, not an essential one.

The best way I can describe it is that it feels very neutral during cornering. It reduces understeer and makes the rear suspension work a bit harder. You won’t feel a noticeable change in steering response or an increase in ride harshness like the trunk brace.

Having installed all of them, the biggest improvements come from the rear braces.

If you only buy one brace, buy the 4 point trunk brace. It improves steering feel as much as the strut brace and makes the rear feel so much more planted. Once you install it, you’ll realize how just much chassis flex there is in the rear.

3B3F4D2A-34D3-4333-B939-494A03E2769F.jpeg


I also installed the subframe brace, and felt almost no difference with stock-ish suspension. I wouldn’t recommend that one unless you’ve substantially upgraded the front suspension. It’s also very difficult to install, compared to the others. Plus it makes it harder to use the jack point on the subframe.

F48A9CD3-0EFC-40D2-A025-214A037E955A.jpeg


The front power brace, which goes just behind the OEM radiator brace, is easy to install and works primarily by preventing flex in the most flex prone area, at the end of the “k” arms. It changes steering feel and increases front end grip, but not as noticeably as the strut bar.

C9505C5D-63B9-4647-9E6E-C4D7B115BAC2.jpeg


Regarding the middle lower brace, it cannot be installed except on the hatch, si, and ctr because the bolts needed to install it are not present. So, it requires riv-nuts if you have an FC1/2 like me.

Cliffs:

-Front strut bar: essential

-Front power brace: complimentary

-Front subframe brace: complimentary

-Middle lower brace: complimentary

-Rear lower brace: complimentary

-4 point trunk brace: essential
 

CyberCT

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I have the coupe and unfortunately that 4 point brace isn't available. Ugg so frustrating because I really want to install it!
I may go for that rear lower brace. I already have a front strut bar.
 

Hondanickx

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How is the 4 Point trunk brace mounted into those upper holes? There isn't Any threads in there and the steel is really thin there.
 

jacobzl

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Yes! Sorry, this got pushed back because of my front pipe project.

This brace has been good to me. I’ve been periodically checking the torque and it hasn’t loosened up at all. I’ve been jacking the car up multiple times this month and one thing I’ve noticed is that when jacking up the rear on one side, both sides come up at the same time. The rear end didn’t use to be that stiff!

The difference it makes is similar to the trunk brace, but it’s not quite as pronounced. I would say it’s a complementary brace, not an essential one.

The best way I can describe it is that it feels very neutral during cornering. It reduces understeer and makes the rear suspension work a bit harder. You won’t feel a noticeable change in steering response or an increase in ride harshness like the trunk brace.

Having installed all of them, the biggest improvements come from the rear braces.

If you only buy one brace, buy the 4 point trunk brace. It improves steering feel as much as the strut brace and makes the rear feel so much more planted. Once you install it, you’ll realize how just much chassis flex there is in the rear.

3B3F4D2A-34D3-4333-B939-494A03E2769F.jpeg


I also installed the subframe brace, and felt almost no difference with stock-ish suspension. I wouldn’t recommend that one unless you’ve substantially upgraded the front suspension. It’s also very difficult to install, compared to the others. Plus it makes it harder to use the jack point on the subframe.

F48A9CD3-0EFC-40D2-A025-214A037E955A.jpeg


The front power brace, which goes just behind the OEM radiator brace, is easy to install and works primarily by preventing flex in the most flex prone area, at the end of the “k” arms. It changes steering feel and increases front end grip, but not as noticeably as the strut bar.

C9505C5D-63B9-4647-9E6E-C4D7B115BAC2.jpeg


Regarding the middle lower brace, it cannot be installed except on the hatch, si, and ctr because the bolts needed to install it are not present. So, it requires riv-nuts if you have an FC1/2 like me.

Cliffs:

-Front strut bar: essential

-Front power brace: complimentary

-Front subframe brace: complimentary

-Middle lower brace: complimentary

-Rear lower brace: complimentary

-4 point trunk brace: essential
with that rear strut brace are the back seats unusable?
 

DarkLight

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with that rear strut brace are the back seats unusable?
Doesn’t touch the back seats at all. You won’t have to mess with anything unless you drop one of the mounting brackets in the hole. Then the whole rear deck has to come off to get it out. Ask me how I know.

I recommend wrapping dental floss around the threads and pulling it through so that doesn’t happen.
 

jacobzl

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Doesn’t touch the back seats at all. You won’t have to mess with anything unless you drop one of the mounting brackets in the hole. Then the whole rear deck has to come off to get it out. Ask me how I know.

I recommend wrapping dental floss around the threads and pulling it through so that doesn’t happen.
Thanks for the info, super helpful posts, so if you were me (on stock suspension) would you do a strut tower brace and the 4 point trunk brace for starters?
 
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gtman

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Thanks for the info, super helpful posts, so if you were me (on stock suspension) would you do a strut tower brace and the 4 point trunk brace for starters?
For starters, in all honesty, the two most effective first handling mods are better tires and a beefier rear sway bar.
 

jscm

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anyone know how hard is this to install for the si with center exhaust?
 

BLUECIVIC17

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When you install this rear lower bar, you re-use the existing subframe bolts right? Stupid question but when you remove them does anything happen? In other words what do these bolts support? There's no instructions with the rear lower bar.
 

Chicago425

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Yes! Sorry, this got pushed back because of my front pipe project.

This brace has been good to me. I’ve been periodically checking the torque and it hasn’t loosened up at all. I’ve been jacking the car up multiple times this month and one thing I’ve noticed is that when jacking up the rear on one side, both sides come up at the same time. The rear end didn’t use to be that stiff!

The difference it makes is similar to the trunk brace, but it’s not quite as pronounced. I would say it’s a complementary brace, not an essential one.

The best way I can describe it is that it feels very neutral during cornering. It reduces understeer and makes the rear suspension work a bit harder. You won’t feel a noticeable change in steering response or an increase in ride harshness like the trunk brace.

Having installed all of them, the biggest improvements come from the rear braces.

If you only buy one brace, buy the 4 point trunk brace. It improves steering feel as much as the strut brace and makes the rear feel so much more planted. Once you install it, you’ll realize how just much chassis flex there is in the rear.

3B3F4D2A-34D3-4333-B939-494A03E2769F.jpeg


I also installed the subframe brace, and felt almost no difference with stock-ish suspension. I wouldn’t recommend that one unless you’ve substantially upgraded the front suspension. It’s also very difficult to install, compared to the others. Plus it makes it harder to use the jack point on the subframe.

F48A9CD3-0EFC-40D2-A025-214A037E955A.jpeg


The front power brace, which goes just behind the OEM radiator brace, is easy to install and works primarily by preventing flex in the most flex prone area, at the end of the “k” arms. It changes steering feel and increases front end grip, but not as noticeably as the strut bar.

C9505C5D-63B9-4647-9E6E-C4D7B115BAC2.jpeg


Regarding the middle lower brace, it cannot be installed except on the hatch, si, and ctr because the bolts needed to install it are not present. So, it requires riv-nuts if you have an FC1/2 like me.

Cliffs:

-Front strut bar: essential

-Front power brace: complimentary

-Front subframe brace: complimentary

-Middle lower brace: complimentary

-Rear lower brace: complimentary

-4 point trunk brace: essential
Do you remember the torque specs for the trunk brace? Great info btw
 

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Doesn’t touch the back seats at all. You won’t have to mess with anything unless you drop one of the mounting brackets in the hole. Then the whole rear deck has to come off to get it out. Ask me how I know.

I recommend wrapping dental floss around the threads and pulling it through so that doesn’t happen.
Using the dental floss to fish the bolt make things a lot easier.

IMG_7652.jpg
 

kcvpr

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F48A9CD3-0EFC-40D2-A025-214A037E955A.jpeg


The front power brace, which goes just behind the OEM radiator brace, is easy to install and works primarily by preventing flex in the most flex prone area, at the end of the “k” arms. It changes steering feel and increases front end grip, but not as noticeably as the strut bar.
How did you get the bolt into the subframe for this brace?

 

 
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