Gas octane

dc2turbo

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Hatch sport recommended fuel is premium fuel 91-93 for the extra power.
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darkseas

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I only used premium '91' in my '16 Touring and I wouldn't get over 28mpg. I finally switched to '89' after 20k miles. I'm now at 30k miles and I'm now up to 35.7 mpg and still climbing. I know the '16 1.5l motor was tuned to run on 89. Now obviously you can run 91 or 93 with the Hondata Reflash but if you're stock, run 89. Your car & wallet will thank you. I just wish I would have done it sooner.
On a side note I only fill with top tier. It makes a difference people.
 

dthatcher7

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I only used premium '91' in my '16 Touring and I wouldn't get over 28mpg. I finally switched to '89' after 20k miles. I'm now at 30k miles and I'm now up to 35.7 mpg and still climbing. I know the '16 1.5l motor was tuned to run on 89. Now obviously you can run 91 or 93 with the Hondata Reflash but if you're stock, run 89. Your car & wallet will thank you. I just wish I would have done it sooner.
On a side note I only fill with top tier. It makes a difference people.
++on the Top Tier recommendation!
So you said the 1.5 is tuned for 89? Do you know about the 2.0? Where did you see this information?
 

Snoopyslr

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++on the Top Tier recommendation!
So you said the 1.5 is tuned for 89? Do you know about the 2.0? Where did you see this information?
The 1.5T is tuned for 87 Octane.
 

Irocnrol

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The 1.5L Turbo does not have an octane sensor on it. We've got a knock sensor to pull timing if it's seeing pinging, but nothing to tell the ECU what fuel is being fed.

You also didn't answer the question. Flex fuel cars will adjust timing based on the octane they are reading. Timing does affect HP numbers, but at this level not very much. We're probably talking less than 1hp.

You are right about marketing tho. This is why I wouldn't waste the money on the SI considering it has the same engine my EX-T has, but with some bolt ons and a better tune. 6MT would be nice tho :p
 


dthatcher7

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OK question here. The compression ratio of the 2.0L is 9.8:1. Even with engine management wouldn't that traditionally call for mid-grade/89? I guess I am just wondering. I mean sure the ECU might be capable of changing the timing to run well on 87. I mean Honda isn't going to release a mainstream car that can't use 87 gas, but they would still want to use a high-compression engine to reduce emissions/increase efficiency, and then make both possible through advanced engine management. Although the both goals could be further enhanced by running a fuel more aligned with the actual compression ratio, right? Thus reducing the number of tricks the ECU has to play.
And the turbo compression ratio is even higher...
 
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peterletran

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I've been running 87 octane on my ex-t coupe since I bought the vehicle. I can't tell if there's knocking going on, but I've noticed on WOT I get a afr of 10:1 and significantly lower performance since I purchased the vehicle in February. Either I've got a boost leak or the ECU is flooding the engine to prevent pre-detonation. So, IMO, if you've got the turbo model, running 91-93 octane would be better, but as for the LX model, there is no turbo, and tier 1 fuel with detergents is the best bet.
 

dallasjhawk

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I've been running 87 octane on my ex-t coupe since I bought the vehicle. I can't tell if there's knocking going on, but I've noticed on WOT I get a afr of 10:1 and significantly lower performance since I purchased the vehicle in February. Either I've got a boost leak or the ECU is flooding the engine to prevent pre-detonation. So, IMO, if you've got the turbo model, running 91-93 octane would be better, but as for the LX model, there is no turbo, and tier 1 fuel with detergents is the best bet.
heat will kill our turbos. Anytime its hot out, the ecu wants to pull timing which lowers boost which kills output. If you are tuning with ktuner, you can adjust the ign tables to pull less timing even when hot
 

peterletran

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Unfortunately, I don't have any flashing hardware, yet. All I've got is the Torque Pro App and the bluetooth OBD2 interface, and that's how I'm monitoring my engine. However, it looks like the MAP sensor and the maf sensor are contradicting each other. on one side I get up to 20 psi, but the other, I only get about 14 psi. Its all really odd to me. I wish I had a legitimate flashing node.
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