full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers

ebatr24

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Seems like that's the only way to connect the tweeter.

Another question, if I get the Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81, shallow-mount 8" subwoofer with dual 1-ohm voice coils to replace the stock sub, am I still need an extra mono amp?
I wouldn't run that off a stock factory amp. I really wouldn't run an aftermarket sub on the factory amp for any reason, the gain is not worth it. Honda Hack your headunit instead and install Viper4Android you will get quite a bit more punch out of the stock system. The stock sub can actually produce decent bass but Hondas EQ turns it down when raising the volume to keep you from blowing it. Go ahead and try it though, maybe you'll be happy with it with out getting an aftermarket amp.
 
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elijahblake

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I wouldn't run that off a stock factory amp. I really wouldn't run an aftermarket sub on the factory amp for any reason, the gain is not worth it. Honda Hack your headunit instead and install Viper4Android you will get quite a bit more punch out of the stock system. The stock sub can actually produce decent bass but Hondas EQ turns it down when raising the volume to keep you from blowing it. Go ahead and try it though, maybe you'll be happy with it with out getting an aftermarket amp.
Yeah it's crazy the difference honestly.. Too bad it doesn't work for FM though
 

Seabass' Fk8

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Wow, what an informative thread & roller coaster ride with OP lol. I added an amp and upgraded my subwoofer (polk DB840DVC) and have a question to y'all. Since I'm using the OEM 1 set of subwoffer high level speaker wire connections to my line out conveter that has 2 sets of speaker wires should I combine both positives and both negatives together or just connect the "left" side on the LOC and run just 1 RCA to the amp? Thanks in advance!!

Honda Civic 10th gen full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers 20210103_200653


Honda Civic 10th gen full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers 20210104_015408
 

ebatr24

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Wow, what an informative thread & roller coaster ride with OP lol. I added an amp and upgraded my subwoofer (polk DB840DVC) and have a question to y'all. Since I'm using the OEM 1 set of subwoffer high level speaker wire connections to my line out conveter that has 2 sets of speaker wires should I combine both positives and both negatives together or just connect the "left" side on the LOC and run just 1 RCA to the amp? Thanks in advance!!

20210103_200653.jpg


20210104_015408.jpg
Get an LC2i, you will be disappointed with the sub upgrade using one of those cheap LOCs. Decent bass at low volume but once you turn it up the bass sucks especially once the car is moving.
 


KYRGYZ

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Can someone give me exact way to connect LC2i ? On OPs photo where he installed it, he shows Y split into sub wire - and +... how do I do it? Signal suppose to be BEFORE or AFTER factory amp?
 

Tamporter

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I wouldn't run that off a stock factory amp. I really wouldn't run an aftermarket sub on the factory amp for any reason, the gain is not worth it. Honda Hack your headunit instead and install Viper4Android you will get quite a bit more punch out of the stock system. The stock sub can actually produce decent bass but Hondas EQ turns it down when raising the volume to keep you from blowing it. Go ahead and try it though, maybe you'll be happy with it with out getting an aftermarket amp.
TY for this! Have Honda Hack and would love to get some more bass from the stock sub!
Any other Android apps you recommend?
Did you get Waze to run natively well? It crashes quite often for me. :(
 

cariboublue

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Hello,

New owner of a CTR and my first post here. Lot of really great knowledge to be found. Looking forward to participating more.

So far love the car but the stereo system is really underwhelming.

I read through this whole thread and I fell a little overwhelmed. From what I read I think I am interested in switching out the center channel and doing the amp/subwoofer upgrade.

Is the combination the OP started with still considered worthwhile? I am speaking of

JL C2-350X
Rockford Fosgate Power T500X1br
Pioneer TS-A2000LD2
Audio Control LC2i

Or are there better components people are using these days?

I've never done any car audio installation before (though I have done a lot of wiring for AV systems) so I am trying to keep things inexpensive and easy to install so would appreciate being able to use parts I can see examples of finished work.

Also from what I understand OP discovered that sending signal from teh subwoofer to the LC2i was incorrect. Instead you should use the left (or left and right? Kind of unclear) woofer signal instead. I this correct?

Also how helpful is the sound dampening? Was thinking of doing just the trunk.

Hoping to make some time for this project in about a month so any advice before that would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 


JohnnyOHonda

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Just adding my experience as it may help others. I have the JL Audio C2 650 separates with InstallBay and Noico on the doors to deaden the door and separate the back wave running off the factory front end, Audio Control LC2i, Rockford Fosgate R5001X1D to an Alpine Type R 8” in the factory location aided with 0.75” spacer for speaker depth and covered by a Alpine factory speaker cover. I did originally just use the factory electronic crossover and didn’t used the JL Audio crossover. It was bright but I equalized it but ended up burning out the tweeter. After getting a replacement tweeter, I crossover only the tweeter and use the -3db setting....sounds smooth with no equalIzation. The bass is real good, enjoy it immensely. I have an SVS SB3000 (matched with KEF Wireless II) so I have an idea of what good bass sounds like. I’m super happy with this set up. No distortion and sounds clear with great bass.

I did use the Noico in the “trunk” area as well as the door (noise and keeping the back wave from cancellation....Install Bay helps too). It did make an improvement in the road noise, especially on the freeway where it cut a perceptible amount of noise down. Just enough to notice and enjoy the difference, not a lot.
 
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ians

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Just adding my experience as it may help others. I have the JL Audio C2 650 separates with InstallBay and Noico on the doors to deaden the door and separate the back wave running off the factory front end, Audio Control LC2i, Rockford Fosgate R5001X1D to an Alpine Type R 8” in the factory location aided with 0.75” spacer for speaker depth and covered by a Alpine factory speaker cover. I did originally just use the factory electronic crossover and didn’t used the JL Audio crossover. It was bright but I equalized it but ended up burning out the tweeter. After getting a replacement tweeter, I crossover only the tweeter and use the -3db setting....sounds smooth with no equalIzation. The bass is real good, enjoy it immensely. I have an SVS SB3000 (matched with KEF Wireless II) so I have an idea of what good bass sounds like. I’m super happy with this set up. No distortion and sounds clear with great bass.

I did use the Noico in the “trunk” area as well as the door (noise and keeping the back wave from cancellation....Install Bay helps too). It did make an improvement in the road noise, especially on the freeway where it cut a perceptible amount of noise down. Just enough to notice and enjoy the difference, not a lot.
Do you mind share how to wire the JL Audio crossover? I also have the C2 650 in the front and didn't use the crossover that come in the box because no idea how to wire it.
 

piterek

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Alpine Type R 8” in the factory location aided with 0.75” spacer for speaker depth
Could you tell me where you got the spacers? I drive the Pioneer sub mentioned earlier by the OP with Alpine MRV-M500 mono, and while it sounds way better than factory, I am looking for something more.
 

ebatr24

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Could you tell me where you got the spacers? I drive the Pioneer sub mentioned earlier by the OP with Alpine MRV-M500 mono, and while it sounds way better than factory, I am looking for something more.
They are literally on amazon
 

JohnnyOHonda

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Do you mind share how to wire the JL Audio crossover? I also have the C2 650 in the front and didn't use the crossover that come in the box because no idea how to wire it.
I didn’t wire it myself but you take the two wires that go to the tweeter as the input and then just take the tweeter output to your JL Audio tweeters. In my case, I preferred using the -3db switch but it’s easy to go from -3 or to 0 or to +2 just by changing the little connection inside the crossover. I didn’t use the woofer output at all. I’ll double check with my installer tomorrow, he’s working on a different car of mine tomorrow.
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