I wouldn't run that off a stock factory amp. I really wouldn't run an aftermarket sub on the factory amp for any reason, the gain is not worth it. Honda Hack your headunit instead and install Viper4Android you will get quite a bit more punch out of the stock system. The stock sub can actually produce decent bass but Hondas EQ turns it down when raising the volume to keep you from blowing it. Go ahead and try it though, maybe you'll be happy with it with out getting an aftermarket amp.Seems like that's the only way to connect the tweeter.
Another question, if I get the Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81, shallow-mount 8" subwoofer with dual 1-ohm voice coils to replace the stock sub, am I still need an extra mono amp?
Yeah it's crazy the difference honestly.. Too bad it doesn't work for FM thoughI wouldn't run that off a stock factory amp. I really wouldn't run an aftermarket sub on the factory amp for any reason, the gain is not worth it. Honda Hack your headunit instead and install Viper4Android you will get quite a bit more punch out of the stock system. The stock sub can actually produce decent bass but Hondas EQ turns it down when raising the volume to keep you from blowing it. Go ahead and try it though, maybe you'll be happy with it with out getting an aftermarket amp.
Get an LC2i, you will be disappointed with the sub upgrade using one of those cheap LOCs. Decent bass at low volume but once you turn it up the bass sucks especially once the car is moving.Wow, what an informative thread & roller coaster ride with OP lol. I added an amp and upgraded my subwoofer (polk DB840DVC) and have a question to y'all. Since I'm using the OEM 1 set of subwoffer high level speaker wire connections to my line out conveter that has 2 sets of speaker wires should I combine both positives and both negatives together or just connect the "left" side on the LOC and run just 1 RCA to the amp? Thanks in advance!!
TY for this! Have Honda Hack and would love to get some more bass from the stock sub!I wouldn't run that off a stock factory amp. I really wouldn't run an aftermarket sub on the factory amp for any reason, the gain is not worth it. Honda Hack your headunit instead and install Viper4Android you will get quite a bit more punch out of the stock system. The stock sub can actually produce decent bass but Hondas EQ turns it down when raising the volume to keep you from blowing it. Go ahead and try it though, maybe you'll be happy with it with out getting an aftermarket amp.
Do you mind share how to wire the JL Audio crossover? I also have the C2 650 in the front and didn't use the crossover that come in the box because no idea how to wire it.Just adding my experience as it may help others. I have the JL Audio C2 650 separates with InstallBay and Noico on the doors to deaden the door and separate the back wave running off the factory front end, Audio Control LC2i, Rockford Fosgate R5001X1D to an Alpine Type R 8” in the factory location aided with 0.75” spacer for speaker depth and covered by a Alpine factory speaker cover. I did originally just use the factory electronic crossover and didn’t used the JL Audio crossover. It was bright but I equalized it but ended up burning out the tweeter. After getting a replacement tweeter, I crossover only the tweeter and use the -3db setting....sounds smooth with no equalIzation. The bass is real good, enjoy it immensely. I have an SVS SB3000 (matched with KEF Wireless II) so I have an idea of what good bass sounds like. I’m super happy with this set up. No distortion and sounds clear with great bass.
I did use the Noico in the “trunk” area as well as the door (noise and keeping the back wave from cancellation....Install Bay helps too). It did make an improvement in the road noise, especially on the freeway where it cut a perceptible amount of noise down. Just enough to notice and enjoy the difference, not a lot.
Could you tell me where you got the spacers? I drive the Pioneer sub mentioned earlier by the OP with Alpine MRV-M500 mono, and while it sounds way better than factory, I am looking for something more.Alpine Type R 8” in the factory location aided with 0.75” spacer for speaker depth
They are literally on amazonCould you tell me where you got the spacers? I drive the Pioneer sub mentioned earlier by the OP with Alpine MRV-M500 mono, and while it sounds way better than factory, I am looking for something more.
I didn’t wire it myself but you take the two wires that go to the tweeter as the input and then just take the tweeter output to your JL Audio tweeters. In my case, I preferred using the -3db switch but it’s easy to go from -3 or to 0 or to +2 just by changing the little connection inside the crossover. I didn’t use the woofer output at all. I’ll double check with my installer tomorrow, he’s working on a different car of mine tomorrow.Do you mind share how to wire the JL Audio crossover? I also have the C2 650 in the front and didn't use the crossover that come in the box because no idea how to wire it.