full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers

RatedR

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I have another noob question. Ctrmofo mentioned he's running the JL Audio W3v3 8 inch woofer and the JL Audio XD600/1v2 Amp. The sub says it's rated at - power range: 50-250 watts RMS/peak power handling: 500 watts and the amp is 400 watt RMS at 4 ohms and 600 watt at 2 ohms. Is this amp over kill for the sub? Would the XD300/1v2 be sufficient with 200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms)? Whats the number I need to be focused on, the power range watts 50-250 or the peak watts, 500?
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ians

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Hi, I am new here. I am planning to upgrade the speakers on my FK8. I already dead set to get the JL Audio C2 650 for the front & C2 350x for the dash center. Now if I want to upgrade the sub with the pioneer 8" shallow one, is any mono amp is fine? or need to have specific spec?
 

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Hi, I am new here. I am planning to upgrade the speakers on my FK8. I already dead set to get the JL Audio C2 650 for the front & C2 350x for the dash center. Now if I want to upgrade the sub with the pioneer 8" shallow one, is any mono amp is fine? or need to have specific spec?
I'd suggest something with a little more power personally, the Kicker Comp R or the a Skar Audio VD-8 both fit with a small spacer you can get on Amazon. The Kicker CX400.1 would be a great amp to pair with them too.
 

ians

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I'd suggest something with a little more power personally, the Kicker Comp R or the a Skar Audio VD-8 both fit with a small spacer you can get on Amazon. The Kicker CX400.1 would be a great amp to pair with them too.
Thanks. But kicker's amp CX400.1 is out of stock. So how about Kenwood or Pioneer mono amp?

I don't know am I made a mistake or not, I got the JL C2 650 component set instead of C2 650x + C2 0.75 tweeter(out of stock). So should I connect the woofer & tweeter directly and forget about the crossover come in the package or I should feed the factory woofer line to the JL crossover and then feed to the speakers set? Or I have to return and wait for the C2 tweeter back in stock
 

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Hi ians:

I have this same setup up front and I am currently not using the kit's crossovers for the tweeters. I just used the same leads previously powering the stock tweeters directly to the JL ones since the Honda amplifier has these leads already filtered for tweeter use. With that being said, if something were to happen that make the tweeters blow, JL would more than likely not honor your warranty if they know you were not using their provided crossovers(since they provided protection for lower frequencies). With that being said, I have been using them as previously shared without any issues.

As an alternative, you could have the woofer leads coming from the amplifier connected to the JL crossovers and then have the signal split between the woofer and the tweeters. I decided not to do this as I wasn't sure what to expect from the stock amp in terms of sound quality. However, no adverse effects (from a hardware aspect) should be expected by doing this.

Hope this helps.

Thanks. But kicker's amp CX400.1 is out of stock. So how about Kenwood or Pioneer mono amp?

I don't know am I made a mistake or not, I got the JL C2 650 component set instead of C2 650x + C2 0.75 tweeter(out of stock). So should I connect the woofer & tweeter directly and forget about the crossover come in the package or I should feed the factory woofer line to the JL crossover and then feed to the speakers set? Or I have to return and wait for the C2 tweeter back in stock
 


ians

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Hi ians:

I have this same setup up front and I am currently not using the kit's crossovers for the tweeters. I just used the same leads previously powering the stock tweeters directly to the JL ones since the Honda amplifier has these leads already filtered for tweeter use. With that being said, if something were to happen that make the tweeters blow, JL would more than likely not honor your warranty if they know you were not using their provided crossovers(since they provided protection for lower frequencies). With that being said, I have been using them as previously shared without any issues.

As an alternative, you could have the woofer leads coming from the amplifier connected to the JL crossovers and then have the signal split between the woofer and the tweeters. I decided not to do this as I wasn't sure what to expect from the stock amp in terms of sound quality. However, no adverse effects (from a hardware aspect) should be expected by doing this.

Hope this helps.
That's very helpful! thanks a lot! I will do the same too. If the tweeter really blow, then I will just get the tweeter replacement instead of make a complicated installation
 

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That's very helpful! thanks a lot! I will do the same too. If the tweeter really blow, then I will just get the tweeter replacement instead of make a complicated installation
The tweeter won't blow, ideally getting the components is best actually, signal is crossover'd at the amp so you will be alright. I run the components in the doors and have them paired up to a Kicker Key amp, it gets real loud and have yet to blow one of the speakers. As for the sub amp, I like the kicker because it will accept a hi or lo signal, but any other mono amp will also do just fine.
 

ians

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The tweeter won't blow, ideally getting the components is best actually, signal is crossover'd at the amp so you will be alright. I run the components in the doors and have them paired up to a Kicker Key amp, it gets real loud and have yet to blow one of the speakers. As for the sub amp, I like the kicker because it will accept a hi or lo signal, but any other mono amp will also do just fine.
Thanks a lot for the info! Now when I try to install the door speakers, I ran into issue! C2 650 too big for the door! seems like I need to get the C2 600 instead! 650 didn't fit the adapter that crutchfield ship to me. So I have to return the 650 and get the 600. Or am I miss anything?
 

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ians

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ebatr24

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that's the adapter I have but the C2 650 woofer(Frame outer diameter is 6.5") is too big for the adapter!
20200827_211409.jpg
Did you snap off the inner plastic bits? Mine definitely fit, fit on my 650s and the infinitys I used for the rear.
 

ians

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Did you snap off the inner plastic bits? Mine definitely fit, fit on my 650s and the infinitys I used for the rear.
Even I snap off the inner plastic bits still won't fit, basically the speaker outer rim is larger than the adapter.

Also am I need to cut the wire to connect the tweeter? seems like I can't find any harness for the tweeter
 

ebatr24

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Even I snap off the inner plastic bits still won't fit, basically the speaker outer rim is larger than the adapter.

Also am I need to cut the wire to connect the tweeter? seems like I can't find any harness for the tweeter
Yes, there is no wiring harness for the tweeter, you will need to wire those and solder them (personal preference). Try shaving the inner ring a bit, I remember mine were snug but with the screws they sealed up real nice especially with the foam bits, and dynamat/soundskins stuff. The Infinitys I used in the rear doors definitely were a little easier to get mounted.
 

ians

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Yes, there is no wiring harness for the tweeter, you will need to wire those and solder them (personal preference). Try shaving the inner ring a bit, I remember mine were snug but with the screws they sealed up real nice especially with the foam bits, and dynamat/soundskins stuff. The Infinitys I used in the rear doors definitely were a little easier to get mounted.
Seems like that's the only way to connect the tweeter.

Another question, if I get the Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81, shallow-mount 8" subwoofer with dual 1-ohm voice coils to replace the stock sub, am I still need an extra mono amp?
 

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