full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers

Bernz1973

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sorry to revive an old thread. Does the factory headunit/amp exhibit full range/flat frequency signal?
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86salmon

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craulston

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Just adding to this great post. Thanks to @ctrmofo for starting it and doing all the research.

My findings.
1. You do need to grab the signal from the Left Front Woofer to get a full range signal. (Only the left channel is needed because that channel carries the full signal but you can you both if you wish)

2. An Audio Control LC is not needed. (Although I am a fan of their products). Many amps with high level inputs and voltage offset turn on will work similarly. You will want some kind of restoration or bass enhancement on the the amp.

3. There are several options for replacement speakers. Follow the measurements given.

I chose to use a Rockford Fosgate T750X1bd with two Kicker L7 8's in a custom box from https://frostbitebox.com . I also replaced only the lower door woofers with Kicker 6.5 coax speakers. It helped but still not great. I think it's more of a source issue at this point. I may tackle that in the future.

The install was a little painful but I am more than happy with the bass.

I removed the factory sub and mounted the T750X1bd in its place. Of note, I did an install on a 2020 Civic Sport and put the amp under the seat. I think that was easier.

Here are some pics of my install.

Civic-TypeR-Amp.jpg


Civic-TypeR-Box.jpg
 

squirrel04

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So i've almost read this entire thread and wow. This is so much shit that i dont know and confusing to me haha.

All i want to replace is the stock sub with an amp and possible the center speaker.

What exactly is required of me to do this correctly?
Any info is appreciated.
 

squirrel04

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Ok so i just ordered the ALPINE S-A60M, Rockville RWK41 4 Gauge Amp Kit, Tesa Black Fuzzy tape, and the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2.

Is there anything else required to make this complete? :)


EDIT==== NEVERMIND THE PIONEER WAS SOLD OUT...LOOKING FOR SOMETHING ELSE NOW LOL

EDIT AGAIN=== I ORDERED THE
Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81
 
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rallyered225

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Ok so i just ordered the ALPINE S-A60M, Rockville RWK41 4 Gauge Amp Kit, Tesa Black Fuzzy tape, and the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2.

Is there anything else required to make this complete? :)


EDIT==== NEVERMIND THE PIONEER WAS SOLD OUT...LOOKING FOR SOMETHING ELSE NOW LOL

EDIT AGAIN=== I ORDERED THE
Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81
For shizzle
 

mattyhops

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Anyone have the original FB post or know where I can find it? Orignal user seems to have been banned or deleted their profile : (
 

Mikex18

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Does somehody know rhe maximum woofer dept thar can fit the front doors? And whar impedance ste the stock touring front speakers??
 

FifStreet

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Just adding to this great post. Thanks to @ctrmofo for starting it and doing all the research.

My findings.
1. You do need to grab the signal from the Left Front Woofer to get a full range signal. (Only the left channel is needed because that channel carries the full signal but you can you both if you wish)

2. An Audio Control LC is not needed. (Although I am a fan of their products). Many amps with high level inputs and voltage offset turn on will work similarly. You will want some kind of restoration or bass enhancement on the the amp.
Any tips for identifying the wire to the left front woofer? Where did you tap into it?

What if my amp doesn't have an auto-turn on feature? Where to run the amp turn on wire?
 

craulston

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Any tips for identifying the wire to the left front woofer? Where did you tap into it?

What if my amp doesn't have an auto-turn on feature? Where to run the amp turn on wire?
For the CTR you can look back in this thread and the wire is mentioned. If the post is gone, I can look it up again. (Other models have different wires). I tapped it from the amp in the passenger foot well and ran it to the sub amp.

As for remote turn on, there are several adapters you can get that will do it. The LC2i will do it as well. Or you could find a switched accessory and tap that to turn on.
 

craulston

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Updated my front & Rear mids and tweets with Rockford Fosgate T16-S

Easy install for the tweets. I'll drive these for a little while and see what I think.
Update: Much Better! Huge Improvement. I can hear the actual highs now and they are crisp and clear.

BTW:
Front Tweeter Left:
Positive = Green
Negative = Yellow

Front Tweeter Right:
Positive = Pink
Negative = Blue

Back Tweeter Left:
Positive = Light Green
Negative = Pink

Back Tweeter Right:
Positive = Light Blue
Negative = Grey

IMG-0205.jpg
IMG-0206.jpg
IMG-0207.jpg


IMG-0212.jpg
 
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RatedR

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Great thread, thanks to all who gave info. After lots of reading & shopping around, bought the following:
JL C2-350 for center channel
(4) JL C2-650x for all doors
XTC Baffle cones
10”x10” Dynamat Extreme to surround speaker holes
Enough Dynamat Superlite for all doors & hatch
Road Kill foam surrounds for speakers

A lot of this thread is over my head, so running all on stock HU & amp.

Will see how this sounds & then decide about door tweeters.

Again, appreciate the education!
Hi. Question on this: Are the JL C2-650x a direct bolt in, or does the install require those pre-fabbed connectors from amazon.com? And how do you like those speakers with the stock HU and amp? Are they a noticeable improved sound difference over stock? Thanks.
 
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