1.5T For those who have clutch master cylinder issues

JonnySuicide

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I've been fighting with the clutch system in this car since I've upgraded to the Clutch Master S2 and flywheel. The factory master cylinder was too weak and died during the break in so I upgraded to the Wilwood unit. Big mistake, way too stiff especially with the CM. It was way too harsh but I kept it because it at least wasn't causing lock out at higher shifts. Well it blew out Saturday. Doing some googlen I found the Exedy EM2 for the 2016+ and by the pic it looked like it would fit my 2020 Si. I just installed it and took it for a test and it is as smooth as stock. The pedal effort is now minimal and it shifted great for me at high rpms. I know there are some other units that delete the stock dampener and redrill that probably work just as good but I believe this is just a unit from an earlier model honda without all that junk. I'd just stay away from Wilwood for daily.

Honda Civic 10th gen For those who have clutch master cylinder issues Screenshot_20220727-204436_Chrome
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Ducota

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Wow!
This is great information. Definitely keep us posted on this.
 

Atlas.46

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Guys with 7th gen Accord and 3rd gen TL use these too. No check valve in them
 

Narumi

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I've been fighting with the clutch system in this car since I've upgraded to the Clutch Master S2 and flywheel. The factory master cylinder was too weak and died during the break in so I upgraded to the Wilwood unit. Big mistake, way too stiff especially with the CM. It was way too harsh but I kept it because it at least wasn't causing lock out at higher shifts. Well it blew out Saturday. Doing some googlen I found the Exedy EM2 for the 2016+ and by the pic it looked like it would fit my 2020 Si. I just installed it and took it for a test and it is as smooth as stock. The pedal effort is now minimal and it shifted great for me at high rpms. I know there are some other units that delete the stock dampener and redrill that probably work just as good but I believe this is just a unit from an earlier model honda without all that junk. I'd just stay away from Wilwood for daily.

Screenshot_20220727-204436_Chrome.jpg
Did you need to modify/bend/clearance any hard lines?
Is the provided SS line long enough (to reach the slave) for our fc chassis?

Thanks for sharing this info. I was just about to purchase the kzcmc and was hoping there would be another alternative.
 


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JonnySuicide

JonnySuicide

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I used the bra
Did you need to modify/bend/clearance any hard lines?
Is the provided SS line long enough (to reach the slave) for our fc chassis?

Thanks for sharing this info. I was just about to purchase the kzcmc and was hoping there would be another alternative.
I used the braided line from my Wilwood. I think the kzcmc would be good but I think most of these are just eliminating the extra stuff that just turns them into an older style cmc. No matter what one used if you get great lock out you have to make sure you have enough stroke on the master cylinder rod.
 

Narumi

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I used the bra

I used the braided line from my Wilwood. I think the kzcmc would be good but I think most of these are just eliminating the extra stuff that just turns them into an older style cmc. No matter what one used if you get great lock out you have to make sure you have enough stroke on the master cylinder rod.
Thanks again for sharing this. I installed it today and omg; my grinding is gone. Unbelievable...
And at a fraction of the price of the kzcmc.

For everyone else viewing this thread make sure you select the CMC for 10th gen. The posted picture is cut off. This company does make a kit featuring a long ss line that will run from the CMC to the slave. It'll take a bit to figure the routing if you don't want to follow the stock plumbing. Just make sure you properly route everything without any resistance when tightening the fittings.
 
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JonnySuicide

JonnySuicide

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Just be sure everyone that use any cmc to make sure you have enough stroke/push on the clutch pedal. For me the release point may be high for some but I have no gear hang. If you get hang, adjust the rod to get more travel/push. Hope this makes sense, I'm not great at Is conveying my point here 😄
 

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I've had the wildwood cmc for 3 years now. The OEM is 1/2” bore and wasn't enough, the wildwood is 5/8" bore and good to run my spec stage 2+ clutch.

It's ran great but I've wanted to change it for years because with it adjusted how it is, I can't enable cruise control! There's a potentiometer that measures the swing and I guess it's out of range. 62k cruse control free miles has been painful!

Will this cmc be enough to run my clutch without high RPM lockout and also be within range to set cruise control? I have a ss braided line from spec or wilwood, will I need anything else?
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