Flashpro upload issue while custom tuning

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19typer

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How did you do that? I can’t go above 1800 rpm in any gear. I just drove around the neighborhood side roads.
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It would take me ten minutes of driving on main roads to get to where I can do that. Is that the only option?
 

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It would take me ten minutes of driving on main roads to get to where I can do that. Is that the only option?
Besides reflashing over and over, that’s the only other thing we’ve found so far that works.
 


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Besides reflashing over and over, that’s the only other thing we’ve found so far that works.
That's the only thing I've had success with. Driving to a dealership cleared the code because it was a longer drive. I've pulled the battery, reset the temp. memory, fingered my throttle body, heated my throttle body, and even killed my battery multiple times from flashing it so many times.
 
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Ok, so it has to be steady driving at speed not stop and go? Obviously this is a software issue which wasn’t present two versions ago, should be easy to fix I would think
 

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Ok, so it has to be steady driving at speed not stop and go? Obviously this is a software issue which wasn’t present two versions ago, should be easy to fix I would think
Stop and go should be fine as steady is obviously next to impossible, but from the research I've done the permanent CEL is related to emissions and requires very specific requirements to clear the code. I believe the speed needs to be maintained for 10-15 minutes cumulative.
 
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Ok, I guess I will go out again. Since you said cumulative I can do it multiple times than instead of driving it until it shuts off?
 

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Ok, I guess I will go out again. Since you said cumulative I can do it multiple times than instead of driving it until it shuts off?
No, in one drive, not multiple cycles. As in you can reach required speed and slow down multiple times during the same drive, but it must be the same drive. I will try and find the article I was reading and post it here for reference.
 


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https://www.autoserviceworld.com/carsmagazine/taking-a-first-look-at-permanent-dtcs/

This is the article that I found my information in. I found that 5 minutes was not long enough to clear the codes, and that while there were other lights on the dash, there were no other CELs present at the time. Your mileage may vary.

@kefi for your reference as well.
Universal Trip Drive Pattern
So, how to clear a Permanent DTC? By performing a Universal Trip Drive Pattern that meets the strict criteria in the repair manual, to prove to the computer that the fault has indeed been repaired and no one is trying to cheat on an emissions test. After performing this Drive Pattern, if the code doesn’t clear it’s usually because the strict criteria were not followed exactly. It’s a pain, but that’s the way it goes.​
Typically, this Universal Trip Drive Pattern starts off by clearing all the DTCs so that only the Permanent DTC remains (always refer to service information for applicable information and procedures).​
Then turn the ignition ON, start the vehicle and let it idle for at least 30 seconds. Then, without cycling the key, drive the vehicle for at least five minutes at more than 40 km/h. Then (again without cycling the key) let the vehicle idle for at least 30 seconds before shutting it OFF. The whole drive cycle must take at least 10 minutes. After performing a Universal Trip Drive Pattern, the computer clears the code, since it’s “seen” that the problem is fixed and not reoccurring. Sounds simple enough, and most problems have apparently come from not performing the Universal Trip Drive Pattern correctly, but time will tell if these new DTCs will be problematic.​
 
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Thank you . I definitely didn’t do it that way. So I should clear the codes first?
 

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If the vehicle is not normal after an upload then don't drive it. Switch it off, unplug the FlashPro from both the vehicle and laptop, switch off the ignition, check the software is up to date then upload again. Don't try to track down errors or do throttle learning or anything like that. And it's not the battery voltage.

If it still does it afterwards then use 'Send Feedback' which will give me the details of the ECU part number, the calibration ID and the last upload log. I'll probably also need the calibration which you can send as part of the feedback process. Datalogs are not useful but sending feedback with the ignition on will give me the error codes.

And unless you are running ethanol, return the ECU to stock if you need to drive it. Don't drive a vehicle when something is obviously wrong.
 

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If the vehicle is not normal after an upload then don't drive it. Switch it off, unplug the FlashPro from both the vehicle and laptop, switch off the ignition, check the software is up to date then upload again. Don't try to track down errors or do throttle learning or anything like that. And it's not the battery voltage.

If it still does it afterwards then use 'Send Feedback' which will give me the details of the ECU part number, the calibration ID and the last upload log. I'll probably also need the calibration which you can send as part of the feedback process. Datalogs are not useful but sending feedback with the ignition on will give me the error codes.

And unless you are running ethanol, return the ECU to stock if you need to drive it. Don't drive a vehicle when something is obviously wrong.
That's not always an option, unfortunately. Thankfully I'm able to get mine working and don't hold you or @kefi liable for any of damages that may occur, but you weren't able to reproduce the error that I was experiencing with my flash, so up until now we assumed it was a problem on my end.
 

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If it happens again then send the feedback immediately after the bad upload and then we can start to track down the cause.
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