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Chrisp1

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I am currently in the process of E-Tuning, and I have run into an A/F ratio oscillation issue.

I'll attach a graph showing the inconsistency in A/F Ratio and also a datalog of a pull.

My mods are: PRL HVI / PRL inlet pipes / PRL Charge Pipes / RV6 Catted DP / RV6 Front Pipe / J's Exhaust

I've had the car leak tested and there is not a boost leak. I've uploaded the tunes provided from the tuner and I've uploaded hondata base maps and still get the same results.

Has any one else experienced this? Hoping to find a solution.

Thank you!

@Hondata

Ricky_AFROscillation.png

Preview attachment Test pull 3 6-16.fpdl

octet-stream.png
Test pull 3 6-16.fpdl
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what are you experiencing to go with this??



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Honda_Elite

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what are you experiencing to go with this??
I’d feel a slight hesitation at times in higher RPMs, assumings that’s the changes in the A/F ratio.
 

FK8_K20c1

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Battled the issues for a couple of weeks. Change your gas station it worked for me.
 

kefi

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I am currently in the process of E-Tuning, and I have run into an A/F ratio oscillation issue.

Ricky_AFROscillation.png
I had almost the exact same thing going on and it was driving me nuts, except it was usually only under idle. It's apparently normal to oscillate like this under idle according to Hondata, but under load that's definitely not the case. It should be right on target.

Your datalog didn't upload correctly though, it looks like it just copied the link to GMail instead of reuploading the file. I'll take a closer look when you reupload.

I'm starting to think our cars are just stupid dummy sensitive to gas quality, cause I have so many phantoms that are seemingly connected to nothing..
 

Honda_Elite

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I had almost the exact same thing going on and it was driving me nuts, except it was usually only under idle. It's apparently normal to oscillate like this under idle according to Hondata, but under load that's definitely not the case. It should be right on target.

Your datalog didn't upload correctly though, it looks like it just copied the link to GMail instead of reuploading the file. I'll take a closer look when you reupload.

I'm starting to think our cars are just stupid dummy sensitive to gas quality, cause I have so many phantoms that are seemingly connected to nothing..
Thanks! I'm starting to think that may be the same issue I am experiencing with the gas. I will change gas and datalog again later today.

Here's my old datalog again.

Thank you for the help!
 

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Honda_Elite

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Let me know if this upload works for the datalog. Any specific I need to do once I change gas or just change and log to see if there’s a difference.

Thanks!
 

FK8_K20c1

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Let me know if this upload works for the datalog. Any specific I need to do once I change gas or just change and log to see if there’s a difference.

Thanks!
Just emtpy the gas tank fill and test.
 

Chrisp1

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I would recommend disconnecting the negative terminal after a fresh tank to have the fuel trims recalibrate..it won’t have any effect on the tune
 

kefi

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I would recommend disconnecting the negative terminal after a fresh tank to have the fuel trims recalibrate..it won’t have any effect on the tune
You'd probably be better off just reflashing the tune, which is guaranteed to clear the lamba learning and you don't have to wrench anything or play with sparks. I'm actually not even sure if losing power resets the baseline lambda on our ECUs.. I should go experiment with that and find out. I've only reflashed for that purpose.

You'd also be without a head unit for god knows how long (it takes a while to come back on) if you pulled the negative... or does that only happen on the positive? I can't remember, lol.

It's worth mentioning our 'long term fuel trims' aren't nearly as long as other ECUs, it moves pretty rapidly too, so I kinda doubt this will have any actual effect. But it's absolutely worth a try and should be tested!
 

Chrisp1

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You'd probably be better off just reflashing the tune, which is guaranteed to clear the lamba learning and you don't have to wrench anything or play with sparks. I'm actually not even sure if losing power resets the baseline lambda on our ECUs.. I should go experiment with that and find out. I've only reflashed for that purpose.

You'd also be without a head unit for god knows how long (it takes a while to come back on) if you pulled the negative... or does that only happen on the positive? I can't remember, lol.

It's worth mentioning our 'long term fuel trims' aren't nearly as long as other ECUs, it moves pretty rapidly too, so I kinda doubt this will have any actual effect. But it's absolutely worth a try and should be tested!
I guess you can do it this different ways but yes you can also reflash.

When I was diagnosing I first reflashed and when I experienced no change after filling up a fresh tank I then disconnected the terminal for half hour to be safe.

I did get lucky as all my dash lights and radio went back to normal literally within a couple minutes of driving.
 

Chi_The_Process

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The Hondata 93 octane PRL DP IC map, do you know which cat was used to develop this map?

How comparable is the RV6 catted DP vs PRL catted DP exhaust gas flow? RV6 compare to stock?

We pulled some data tonight on a 93 octane by using a 93 high flow and 93 PRL DP IC. The result was similar. I was getting 4-5 degree knock in the higher rpm on a 4th gear pull. We reduced the AC by 7 percent and the graph for AF is pretty good.

We took the same 7 percent and used the 91 oct PRL DP IC map. It ran perfect. No knock and the AF was on target.
 

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