Fk8 Track alignment

[Hell167]

Ive looked around and couldn't find much information on ctr track aligment specs. So just wondering what everyone's alignment is like for tracking thier ctr.

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[AlphaDigital]

negative camber with zero toe.

 

[Hell167]

Not quite what I'm looking for. Any specific numbers people are running?

Currently I am running
-1.7 camber front
-2.7 camber rear
0 toe front
0 toe rear

 

[Code Monkey]

You need more camber in front, like -3.5 or so. Can also add a touch of toe out in front for a better turn in.

 

[Hell167]

Thanks. How much is a touch of toe out?

 

[Thatguyraw]

I'm running front -3.0, rear -2.5 and toe 0. you could add +1 in rear and leave 0 toe in front

 

[MadMage]

I'm running stock alignment as I've only run about 2 years and 20 some track days at this point. I've got bigger things to learn and worry about than gains from alignment. My understanding at this point in my learning curve is that until I gain more consistency (like laps times are consistent within about 1 second) or have a specific problem I'm trying to improve (such as turn in r tire wear), its best to keep the car consistent so I can learn on a stable platform.

But it all depends on your use case, and why you are looking to change your alignment.

 

[Brandondan1]

The car will likely understeer with more negative camber in the rear than the front. This can feel safe and predictable, but ideally you want more negative camber in front as you get more comfortable with the car.

Just swapping your camber front/rear and keeping 0 zero all around will make a good difference and not create accelerated tire wear on the street.

 

[AlphaDigital]

Plenty of other methods to play with for better turn in before playing with toe. Is toe bad? It depends. Do you daily your car? You're gonna wear your tires faster then if you toe in or toe out

Things you can do for better turn in include more negative camber, more PSI in the rear tires, adding a wider rear sway bar, trail braking etc.

 

[Hell167]

This is becoming basically a track car with only to and from the closer track on the street so wear isn't really a concern for me. Can't plan on 100 tread tires lasting very long anyways. The further out tracks I have a set of street/wet tires.

As I am starting to switch out suspension components and now have more adjustability, I am wondering how others alignments are so I can try out thier settings.

As I don't think I need any more power yet I am just playing with suspension settings and cooling solutions atm

 

[AlphaDigital]

This is becoming basically a track car with only to and from the closer track on the street so wear isn't really a concern for me. Can't plan on 100 tread tires lasting very long anyways. The further out tracks I have a set of street/wet tires.

As I am starting to switch out suspension components and now have more adjustability, I am wondering how others alignments are so I can try out thier settings.

As I don't think I need any more power yet I am just playing with suspension settings and cooling solutions atm

I think your biggest benefit is to put more negative camber on the front. These cars are really limited on negative camber to begin with so youll see a good amount of improvement there. Most people can get -2 degrees or so just by pulling the pin. If you get balljoints you can easily get more.

Im running -3.6 and -4.3 up front, Ive got to dial the camber back on the -4 though. Thats the most aggressive setting being used on the hard race.

 

[Code Monkey]

I ran 0 toe in front, but a touch of toe out is like 1/16".

 

[Acrbling]

A good starting point would be -2.5/3 camber in the front and -1.5/2 in the rear.

The camber should be set depending on your track (flowy or heavy braking) , skill level/driving style and tire selection. Ideally taking mid session temperature readings and wear into account to fine tune.

Toe: 1/16 total out in the front to counter on throttle bushing deflection and rear either 0 for slower tracks or 1/16 total toe in for faster tracks.

 

[REDRAGN]

Here you go...guide pins pulled, front camber joints, rear camber arms, swift r springs.

 

[Chicane_Si]

I've tried every alignment I can think of that would seem beneficial to the car. The one that feels best to me I will highlight below.

Front:
-3.4 Camber
-0.04 Toe out

Rear:
-2.5 Camber
0.07 Toe in (This can be reduced to straight for those who like a slightly more lively rear end)

These alignment specs were tested with the following suspension:
1 way coilovers with 11k/13k spring rates
Whiteline ALK
RV6 RSB
RV6 toe arms
Blitz Front Strut Bar

I've got lots of fast laps to share and even a GTA class and drive record, to aid my credibility

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