Fk8 Track alignment

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Hell167

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I've tried every alignment I can think of that would seem beneficial to the car. The one that feels best to me I will highlight below.

Front:
-3.4 Camber
-0.04 Toe out

Rear:
-2.5 Camber
0.07 Toe in (This can be reduced to straight for those who like a slightly more lively rear end)

These alignment specs were tested with the following suspension:
1 way coilovers with 11k/13k spring rates
Whiteline ALK
RV6 RSB
RV6 toe arms
Blitz Front Strut Bar

I've got lots of fast laps to share and even a GTA class and drive record, to aid my credibility :)
I think I will try your settings. We have very similar parts. Except I got 14k/12k. I've noticed some companies do stiffer fronts than rears and some are reversed. I wonder why there is no consensus.
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ApexEight

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Stiffer rear makes more sense for a FWD car, will help with rotation. Especially since our rear suspension is not a true coilover and instead a divorced setup with the spring more inboard than the shock, thus creating a lower motion ratio and even higher rear spring rates more desirable.
 

DPL8

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-3.2 front camber zero toe

-2 rear camber zero toe

works fine for me!

on FA510s rsb and 265 square setup
 

Dave B

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Some of the appropriate camber will depend on tire choices. A soft sidewall tire like an A052 or Nanking CRS needs a ton of negative camber while the stiffer sidewall of the Falken 660 may not need as much.

I have stock suspension, pins pulled and Hardrace ball joints in the middle position. Result is average of -2.6 up front and -2 in the rear. I am on Falken 660s and Hankook RS4s. Interesting the car still understeers (but you can get sig oversteer when the rears are cold) but the tire wear on the front looks smooth and even. It is possible that if I went to the -2 setting on the Hardrace ball joints giving me -3.6 camber, that I would be able to drop the tire pressure a bit but I would need to pull the struts back out a bit.

Also interesting that the rears appear to wear in such a way as to suggest I need more rear camber but considering the car is still understeering somewhat, I probably don't need to correct that.

As for toe settings, I really like zero front toe. Makes the car more stable under high speed braking.
 

ehCobra

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Some of the appropriate camber will depend on tire choices. A soft sidewall tire like an A052 or Nanking CRS needs a ton of negative camber while the stiffer sidewall of the Falken 660 may not need as much.

I have stock suspension, pins pulled and Hardrace ball joints in the middle position. Result is average of -2.6 up front and -2 in the rear. I am on Falken 660s and Hankook RS4s. Interesting the car still understeers (but you can get sig oversteer when the rears are cold) but the tire wear on the front looks smooth and even. It is possible that if I went to the -2 setting on the Hardrace ball joints giving me -3.6 camber, that I would be able to drop the tire pressure a bit but I would need to pull the struts back out a bit.

Also interesting that the rears appear to wear in such a way as to suggest I need more rear camber but considering the car is still understeering somewhat, I probably don't need to correct that.

As for toe settings, I really like zero front toe. Makes the car more stable under high speed braking.
I personally have the Hard Race camber joints in the most extreme (-2) setting, but used my coilovers' camber plates to dial back the camber to -3, and with no toe. Apparently I ended up with a wider front track this way, and it feels really nice. Also running -3 camber out back using the Hard Race camber and toe arms with rubber bushings.
 


AR-Delta

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I've tried every alignment I can think of that would seem beneficial to the car. The one that feels best to me I will highlight below.

Front:
-3.4 Camber
-0.04 Toe out

Rear:
-2.5 Camber
0.07 Toe in (This can be reduced to straight for those who like a slightly more lively rear end)

These alignment specs were tested with the following suspension:
1 way coilovers with 11k/13k spring rates
Whiteline ALK
RV6 RSB
RV6 toe arms
Blitz Front Strut Bar

I've got lots of fast laps to share and even a GTA class and drive record, to aid my credibility :)
Basically the same setup I’m running now. Car feels very neutral with the RSB on full stiff. I’m running 8k/9k rates and plan to up them a bit for next season
 

Chicane_Si

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Basically the same setup I’m running now. Car feels very neutral with the RSB on full stiff. I’m running 8k/9k rates and plan to up them a bit for next season
yeah it’s been great! Mostly neutral with a hair of oversteer when you need it. Somehigh speed tracks it can understeer a bit but I just need to dial in the suspension a bit more for that.
 

AR-Delta

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yeah it’s been great! Mostly neutral with a hair of oversteer when you need it. Somehigh speed tracks it can understeer a bit but I just need to dial in the suspension a bit more for that.
Completely agree. Controllable lift off oversteer when I want it, but did have a touch of understeer in high speed corners. Honestly okay with that though, would rather not have it step out at 120+ 😬
 

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Hello all,

I had to get rid of my track alignment earlier this year since I knew I wasn't going to be racing as much this year. Currently on -1 squared, before I had -3.5 Fronts/-2 Rears and loved it.

I am going on track this weekend, should I get a race alignment again or will -1 be fine till I do an alignment beginning of next race season? If I do a race alignment now, I will just keep it that way since I plan to do the full race season next year. I just don't want to get my schedule booked.
 
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Dave B

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Avoiding the race alignment will cause significant tire damage to whatever tire you plan to use.
 


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Hello all,

I had to get rid of my track alignment earlier this year since I knew I wasn't going to be racing as much this year. Currently on -1 squared, before I had -3.5 Fronts/-2 Rears and loved it.

I am going on track this weekend, should I get a race alignment again or will -1 be fine till I do an alignment beginning of next race season? If I do a race alignment now, I will just keep it that way since I plan to do the full race season next year. I just don't want to get my schedule booked.
If you decide to keep -1, just be sure you don't overdrive the fronts, or you will wear out your shoulders a lot faster. You'll probably need more PSI in the front if running -1 as well.

If the tires you have now are already close to being worn out, you probably don't have much to lose, and can just enjoy the car without expecting to set any PBs.

So ultimately it depends on your goals. Just fun seat time and older tires? I wouldn't rush to get an alignment.

Competing to go faster, or want to preserve your shoulders a bit better? Go with alignment.
 

HomieGohan

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If you decide to keep -1, just be sure you don't overdrive the fronts, or you will wear out your shoulders a lot faster. You'll probably need more PSI in the front if running -1 as well.

If the tires you have now are already close to being worn out, you probably don't have much to lose, and can just enjoy the car without expecting to set any PBs.

So ultimately it depends on your goals. Just fun seat time and older tires? I wouldn't rush to get an alignment.

Competing to go faster, or want to preserve your shoulders a bit better? Go with alignment.

They are a new set of Dunlop tires that I got for a good price from the shop. Normally I run Yokohama or Nakang CR1's. I am not trying to get a PB, maybe just pass some Porsche owners and challenge some corvette guys.
 

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Avoiding the race alignment will cause significant tire damage to whatever tire you plan to use.
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