Finesse - The Type R -

oak

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I can vouch 100% the GM friction modified MTF eliminated my gear grinds and made shifts overall smoother. No need to adjust the rod. I think if you are experiencing sticky, lock outs, grinds etc better to switch early as possible as once the damage is done time is not on your side.
 

TypeRNY

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I can vouch 100% the GM friction modified MTF eliminated my gear grinds and made shifts overall smoother. No need to adjust the rod. I think if you are experiencing sticky, lock outs, grinds etc better to switch early as possible as once the damage is done time is not on your side.
Quite frankly I am not even sure what the GM friction modified MTF is. I am coming from 6 years in an STi with kartboy short throw and bushings. I have experienced zero issues with any kind of gear grind unless its driver error. Just always trying to make the shifting and driving experience better than it already is.
 

AdamD19DFK8

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I only get a 2nd gear grind if I try to move the shifter immediately after I push the clutch in, or sometimes looking at logs I would still have a little bit of throttle applied. As long as I'm deliberate in my 1st-2nd shifts it works perfectly. Sometimes though, I haven't pinpointed why, I'll get gear grind downshifting into 4th gear.
Still going to swap out to amsoil synchromesh fluid soon. At 20k miles I may be over due.

As for low speed acceleration, with hondata/ traction control, and their dampened torque targets (not sure if they are the same as the stock tune, I need to compare the 2). On a flat dry road I can 100% mash the throttle in during the first 2 gears. I tried full power for awhile and modulated the throttle, but in the end dampened was still faster, easier, and more effective. With full power 2nd gear would kind of hang there for a bit at 50mph. Without it just sails right by it. Even on uneven or unlevel roads mashing it works very well as long as VSA is fully disabled. Up at speed this thing handles incredibly, it pretty much drives itself through bends and just rotates through
 

Marrk

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I am not familiar with the Type R gearbox. Does 2nd gear have triple cone synchros like the S2000 had?

Thanks.
 


Type aah

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I've had a long line of performance cars, a large majority of them stickshift, some dual clutch / standard auto. I'd put the 'feel' of driving a stock Type R at the top of my list of owned cars, followed by my old 2005 WRX and 2008 STi, and trailing that my 2014 EVO.
You don't mention your M2... How does it compare?
 

blitz

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If you haven't yet, I encourage you (and anyone else having the issue) to adjust the freeplay in your clutch master cylinder. I too thought I had minor grinding issues when trying to shift quickly, but each time I was certain I had the clutch to the floor. It took me all of about 5 minutes to adjust nearly a half turn of slack out of the CMC rod and now it shifts perfectly, even fast shifts at high RPM.
I agree with this post too, however, it may not apply to all members. My Type R’s CMC rod had some excess lateral movement (two turns), and it’s probably attributed to the break-in period of many parts seating properly.

A separate fixed bolt above the pedal adjusts the pedal travel, but I do not advise adjusting that because it will affect the distancing of the piston travel within the cylinder.

Nonetheless, removing this excess movement in the CMC rod should be a maintenance issue that Honda inspects and corrects for this model during every service inspection or maintenance procedure.
 
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NapalmEnema

NapalmEnema

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You don't mention your M2... How does it compare?
Apples and oranges - the Type R is definitely faster through turns at the limit - both fun for different reasons. I think if you look at my post history I made a thread about them - if I had to choose one or the other on a car lot? Type R would edge out the M2.

I have a 1/150 2017 Performance Edition M2's, so for the Type R to be this much fun / capable really says a lot in comparison to a car that costs 2x as much lol.

The M2 requires a TON of finesse as well - you mash the gas you just spin tires constantly - very torque-ee like the Type R. The only 'drink a coffee and beat anything' is my wife's X5m - that thing is hilariously easy to win with lol.
 

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I agree with this post too, however, it may not apply to all members. My Type R’s CMC rod had some excess lateral movement (two turns), and it’s probably attributed to the break-in period of many parts seating properly.

A separate fixed bolt above the pedal adjusts the pedal travel, but I do not advise adjusting that because it will affect the distancing of the piston travel within the cylinder.

Nonetheless, removing this excess movement in the CMC rod should be a maintenance issue that Honda inspects and corrects for this model during every service inspection or maintenance procedure.
Completely agree with all of this. It's incredible with so many complaints that Honda isn't checking this adjustment the first time anyone reports an issue. I know it probably won't fix it for everyone, but it definitely seems like an easy fix that's worth a shot.
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