Fbo p600

[Unity Performance]

I'm one of the few here to have upgraded the turbo (27WON Kuro), and not touch anything with the fuel system. Managed to put down 406whp when corrected for Dynojet; running Petro-Canada 94, which isn't as good as the 93 offered in the US.

Mod List:
27WON Kuro Drop-In Turbo
27WON IC w/Boost Tubes
27WON FP and Exhaust
RV6 Catted DP
Eventuri Intake
Eventuri Inlet

Is there a point of dropping $2-2.5K on a drop-in turbo + labor for peak numbers that are barely higher than FBO? Yes, tuned stock turbos lose their linear nature - hitting peak torque around 3,400, and peak hp around 5,800 to me personally takes the fun out of revving out the K20C to 7,000. With FBO and Kuro my peak torque is at 4,400, and peak power is at 6,800. I can also stretch 2nd gear to 60mph if need be with a new redline of 7,600. I love turbocharged cars for their ability to extract immense power from small displacement engines, but I will always favor power delivery and response of a naturally aspirated engine. Speaking of response, the Ball Bearings in all the drop-ins spool up very quickly compared to stock turbo Journal Bearings.

Secondly, you're pushing the stock turbo to 100% capacity and beyond to match a drop-in working at 90% like mine is. Being a circuit car that's also a daily I'm alright with sacrificing peak numbers in exchange for drivability, creating less heat, and ultimately long-term reliability - 5,000+ miles with the Kuro already and not a single hiccup with either the hardware or the e-tune by DRob.

That's just my two cents, I'm really happy with my personal decision and I understand some may not agree with my view

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[AlphaDigital]

I'm one of the few here to have upgraded the turbo (27WON Kuro), and not touch anything with the fuel system. Managed to put down 406whp when corrected for Dynojet; running Petro-Canada 94, which isn't as good as the 93 offered in the US.

Mod List:
27WON Kuro Drop-In Turbo
27WON IC w/Boost Tubes
27WON FP and Exhaust
RV6 Catted DP
Eventuri Intake
Eventuri Inlet

Is there a point of dropping $2-2.5K on a drop-in turbo + labor for peak numbers that are barely higher than FBO? Yes, tuned stock turbos lose their linear nature - hitting peak torque around 3,400, and peak hp around 5,800 to me personally takes the fun out of revving out the K20C to 7,000. With FBO and Kuro my peak torque is at 4,400, and peak power is at 6,800. I can also stretch 2nd gear to 60mph if need be with a new redline of 7,600. I love turbocharged cars for their ability to extract immense power from small displacement engines, but I will always favor power delivery and response of a naturally aspirated engine. Speaking of response, the Ball Bearings in all the drop-ins spool up very quickly compared to stock turbo Journal Bearings.

Secondly, you're pushing the stock turbo to 100% capacity and beyond to match a drop-in working at 90% like mine is. Being a circuit car that's also a daily I'm alright with sacrificing peak numbers in exchange for drivability, creating less heat, and ultimately long-term reliability - 5,000+ miles with the Kuro already and not a single hiccup with either the hardware or the e-tune by DRob.

That's just my two cents, I'm really happy with my personal decision and I understand some may not agree with my view

Im surprised to see you revving it all the way out to 7600 on a stock head. Is there no indication of valve float out that high?

 

[Mufasa]

How are you not out of fuel at 7600?

 

[Unity Performance]

Im surprised to see you revving it all the way out to 7600 on a stock head. Is there no indication of valve float out that high?

7,800 is where stock Valve Springs will begin floating, per 4Piston and PerformNC. Of course it's not recommended to hit that redline or stay near it too often - I've been up to it twice only; once at AutoX trying to hold it in 2nd gear, and once when I was genuinely curious what my new redline was and had the Hondata Graphing screen going:

How are you not out of fuel at 7600?

Stock fuel pump is out of steam at 7,200, you can see it above in the horsepower chart that it flatlines after 7,200.

7K is usually where I call it however to keep things safe and it's just past peak power so no need to exploit it further, but the point is that I have pretty much all the power till 7K. I did try FBO on stock turbo for a month, and I wasn't liking the last 1,000 rpm not being as exciting as they used to be without a tune.

 

[Los’fk8]

then drop 1600 for just the pump and make around 500. problem solved.

Hold on, so I wouldn't need the entire FSU to push those numbers? I thought that I would need injectors, the new lines and the LPFP as well??? (and obvs the p600 which I have but haven't installed)

 

[AlphaDigital]

Technically youd only need the HPFP.

the LPFP should be replaced if you plan on running E. If you buy the XDI HPFP, and want to run E, then its suggested to drill out your fuel line, or buy a predrilled replacement so that it can flow more.

But you can probably get away with just doing the HPFP.

Injectors arent necessary. If you want to make more than 500hp, then youll need them.

 

[415_CTR]

Got tuned by fk8tuningdevelopmet 404 and 400tq pulls hard faster turbo spool on oem turbo . I will be throwing the p600 with fsu . Ima chase 500hp now

 

[415_CTR]

With a modded fuel line fk8 development can get you to 430whp no fuel system upgrade oem turbo .

 

[AlphaDigital]

With a modded fuel line fk8 development can get you to 430whp no fuel system upgrade oem turbo .

without fuel system upgrade? Maybe with Water/Meth

 

[415_CTR]

without fuel system upgrade? Maybe with Water/Meth

Disregard not one turbo lol t would be drop in

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