Favorite Brake Pads......GO!

dixie1

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Thanks for the reply!

Did you happen to daily drive on them at all? How were they for a little street use? Looking for something great At the track and still decent for a bit of street use.
They work perfect for street driving , but they create more dust on street than on a track...
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I just ordered the Akebonos from Rock Auto and they'll be here Wednesday. This will be my first DIY pad replacement (car has 25K miles) and the OEM pads are still good, but the brake dust drives me nuts and I want to change them this week when I put my NSX rims back on for the summer. Front pad change looks super simple but rears look a little more complicated. Do I need any sort of special tool to do the rears? I've seen conflicting advice online, so I'm asking those who have posted about installing the Akebonos. Thanks!
 

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I just ordered the Akebonos from Rock Auto and they'll be here Wednesday. This will be my first DIY pad replacement (car has 25K miles) and the OEM pads are still good, but the brake dust drives me nuts and I want to change them this week when I put my NSX rims back on for the summer. Front pad change looks super simple but rears look a little more complicated. Do I need any sort of special tool to do the rears? I've seen conflicting advice online, so I'm asking those who have posted about installing the Akebonos. Thanks!
No special tools are needed. Just remember NOT TO SET THE PARKING BRAKE before starting the pad replacement. You will have to have access to some type of windback tool for the rear caliper pistons. Do a quick search and I'm sure that there are pictures and step by step instructions on here somewhere.:thumbsup:
 

hpbyhermann

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I just ordered the Akebonos from Rock Auto and they'll be here Wednesday. This will be my first DIY pad replacement (car has 25K miles) and the OEM pads are still good, but the brake dust drives me nuts and I want to change them this week when I put my NSX rims back on for the summer. Front pad change looks super simple but rears look a little more complicated. Do I need any sort of special tool to do the rears? I've seen conflicting advice online, so I'm asking those who have posted about installing the Akebonos. Thanks!
Read post #78 in this thread by JON, that is all you need there.
 


Muggsy

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No special tools are needed. Just remember NOT TO SET THE PARKING BRAKE before starting the pad replacement. You will have to have access to some type of windback tool for the rear caliper pistons. Do a quick search and I'm sure that there are pictures and step by step instructions on here somewhere.:thumbsup:
Read post #78 in this thread by JON, that is all you need there.
That's what I needed. Thanks! I will update after (I hope) a successful install.
 

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Replaced the front pads over the weekend with the Akebonos when I was putting my summer tires back on. All good, no issues. Unfortunately I couldn't do the rear pads because I am waiting on the caliper wind-back tool. I ordered one from Amazon about a week ago, but shipping is delayed for non-essential items so it won't be here for another couple of weeks. I did take one of the rear calipers off to check it out, and the pad replacement looks pretty straightforward with the tool. I did note that the rear OEM pads are much more worn than the front pads, which were still in pretty good shape after 25k miles.
 

hpbyhermann

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Replaced the front pads over the weekend with the Akebonos when I was putting my summer tires back on. All good, no issues. Unfortunately I couldn't do the rear pads because I am waiting on the caliper wind-back tool. I ordered one from Amazon about a week ago, but shipping is delayed for non-essential items so it won't be here for another couple of weeks. I did take one of the rear calipers off to check it out, and the pad replacement looks pretty straightforward with the tool. I did note that the rear OEM pads are much more worn than the front pads, which were still in pretty good shape after 25k miles.
If you want to do the rear pads now you can use a set of needle nose pliers to windback the caliper pistons. :thumbsup:
 

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If you want to do the rear pads now you can use a set of needle nose pliers to windback the caliper pistons. :thumbsup:
Thanks, I actually tried that briefly because I had seen your suggestion. I got the caliper moving but couldn't get the pliers firmly set in the notches and decided I didn't want to risk screwing it up. I will need to wind back the pistons a good bit because the rear pads were pretty worn. I can wait for the tool, particularly since I'm not really driving anywhere at the moment.
 

hpbyhermann

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You can get a cheap "cube" at any local auto parts store. Another option.....used with a 3/8" ratchet and extension. I keep one at home for emergencies!!:headbang:

Honda Civic 10th gen Favorite Brake Pads......GO! B328F123-7EFC-4892-9D38-0CCAC12E846C


Honda Civic 10th gen Favorite Brake Pads......GO! 6B9F4F56-C4AC-4910-A637-3AD49989331D
 


Muggsy

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Replaced the front pads over the weekend with the Akebonos when I was putting my summer tires back on. All good, no issues. Unfortunately I couldn't do the rear pads because I am waiting on the caliper wind-back tool. I ordered one from Amazon about a week ago, but shipping is delayed for non-essential items so it won't be here for another couple of weeks. I did take one of the rear calipers off to check it out, and the pad replacement looks pretty straightforward with the tool. I did note that the rear OEM pads are much more worn than the front pads, which were still in pretty good shape after 25k miles.
Just did the rear pads this afternoon after I got the wind-back tool from Amazon yesterday. It wasn't bad, except a bit tricky to get the caliper back over the new pads even with the piston fully retracted. I did it by screwing one of the caliper pins back in and seating the inside pad within the caliper, then rotating the caliper onto the rotor. Drove around a bit and the brakes still work so I think I'm good. Looking forward to much less dust on my NSX wheels this summer. Thanks to all for the guidance!
 

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I hope you folks are retracting the electronic parking brake before attempting to push back the pistons in the rear. if you have a good scan tool they can set the car to maintenance mode for the EPB system. if not you must remove the electronic motor manually and retract using a an Etorx 11mm. other than that you can damage the system. I did my rears last week manually and it was super easy. I did not need a piston tool. I used my 2 thumbs to push and that was all. with the EBP retracted all the way its that easy. without retracting you are forcing it back with the tool. no good.
 

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Hey Guys and Gals!

Wanted to update you on my brake pad selection and results. Dory now has over 41,000 miles and on her 3rd set of pads! :headbang:
I replaced the OEM with Hawk HB453N.585. Again, I DD my CTR and track a few times/year. THESE pads were wayyyyyyy better than the OEMs on the track! That was a pro. The cons......VERY dusty and noisy! Squealed intermittently and was annoying for DD. Pads lasted just over 20,000 miles and that was with 2 track days. I recently put on Project Mu Type PS F906. I LOVE THEM! Quiet and wayyyyyy less dust! Haven't been to the track with them Yet but the garage owner I go to races a GTR and an S2000 and swears by these pads!

Just another option for those who DD and track occasionally!

Have a GREAT day!:nixon:
Any feedback with the Project Mu's on the track
 

AdamD19DFK8

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After a little bit of a learning curve the rears were pretty simple. You don't need to waste money on a special tool for the spindle. Channel locks work fine, you can just tape them up with vinyl electrical tape if you're worried about scratching it. Just gotta unplug the motor, remove it from the caliper, retract until you see the piston start to spin, and squeeze it down with your fingers. The front pistons are a little more annoying to squeeze down, since if you squeeze the 2 on one side, the other 2 will move back out lol.

I have to admit the first time I did the rear pads I didn't do it in the correct order and the car wanted to beep at me the whole time I was driving saying the parking brake was on, though it still spun fine. To fix it I took it all apart and did it all again but this time I didn't plug the power connector in until everything was together and I sat in the car and pumped the brakes a few times until it was firm. And then I plugged them back in and started the car up and it was fine.

I hate this switch to electronic parking brakes. Give us the lever!

Pad related, after having the hawk hps 5.0s for almost 2k miles or so, I'm very satisfied with their performance along with the girodisc rotors I paired them to. They do make a bit more dust than I thought they would. Especially compared to the PC's I have in the rears, but that could just be due to the brake bias and that the fronts do the majority of braking.

For a street pad I was a bit surprised that you have to get a good bit of heat into them for them to work their best. Plus they initially took a lot more bedding in at first then I expected. Took a couple drives to get them working right and to actually trigger ABS. That could have also been attributed by the brand new girodiscs.
 

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Any youtube videos out there to tell you a good obd2 scan tool to put the car in maintenance mode? What is the purpose of this mode? Cut the voltage to the harness /caliper?

Need a good video that shows the correct way
thanks!
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