Thanks man, really appreciate the positive feedback. Would like to say it’s been a carefully developed master plan, but I’ve relied on a lot of the valuable feedback and great builds shared here on the forums
Have made significant progress the last (6) months after enjoying the car in stock form for the first (6). Modified or stock, the Type R is a fantastic car. Still haven’t had an opportunity to push it hard...Tomorrow morning would have been a great opportunity to try a canyon run, but currently have the front bumper off for an oil cooler and radiator install.
Wishing everyone a safe, fun and Happy New Year! Closed out 2019 by redoing all (4) Intercooler hose connections. Installed T-Bolt clamps at the intercooler and kept the existing hose clamps at the engine. T-bolts wouldn’t work there due to the hose gradient. Applied a small amount of O-ring lube on the edges. but could not do the entire sealing surface because the hoses at the engine would pop off under test pressure.
T-Bolt vs regular hose clamp
Did another boost leak check. Verified all intercooler connections 100% and no leaks elsewhere. Optimistic (again) the intermittent high RPM at idle is finally resolved. If not, it won’t be due to the IC.
Applied O-ring lube to the engine connector on just the final engagement edge using a Q-tip.
Reinstalled the hose and tightened the hose clamp. Access to this connection is difficult. No leak.
Turbo Boost Leak Tester came in handy again.
Kept the air test pressure at 21 psi with oil cap off.
No signs of bubbles at this connection with the original clamp. Tested with leak detector solution.
No leak at this intercooler connection with T-bolt clamp.
And no leak at this stubborn connection. With any luck, I’ll start 2020 boost leak and high idle RPM free
Preparing for the HKS oil cooler install so got an opportunity to use the Fumoto drain valve installed a couple months ago. Have really been looking forward to this, especially after TypeSiR shared his positive endorsement
Fumoto F106 available on Amazon.
And optional snap on adapter and tygon tubing.
Tygon tubing had permanent kinks that would not straighten out. So rubber banded a socket extension on as a temporary splint. Will swap it to a wooden dowel or metal rod in the future. Cut off the excess so the end wouldn’t dip into the oil.
All set, engine oil cap opened, ready to drain!
Removed the plastic safety lock.
Opened the drain by first pulling back on the valve handle to disengage then opened it. Really like the safety features to prevent its unintended operation
Fumoto valve in the open position. Have struck oil!
Oil draining with no mess or drama. Will close valve, reinstall plastic lock and remove the tubing when done.
The white plastic tubing adapter is snapped on tight and is difficult to remove with the tubing removed... the trick is to put the hose back on then pull at an angle and it will pop off
Only drawback to the Fumoto is the oil drains slower than before. Will gladly take that trade off rather than dealing with spills, which happened every time, no matter how careful I was. If you change your own oil, I’m joining TypeSiR and Nitroturtle in highly recommending the Fumoto. Game changer for sure
No more tools needed or crush washers to replace.
Or haphazard positioning of oil catch pans, only to get caught off guard by the unexpected head pressure of the oil. That got me every time haha.
Won’t miss getting oil on my hands, worrying if the wind would blow the oil around as it drains and getting yelled at by my wife for staining the concrete, lol.
+1 on the Fumoto valves, I have them on all my cars. I've been preferring the 106SX model, due to it's adjustable positioning.
Haven't posted on here yet, but I've been enjoying following your build and detailed explainations + pictures. Looking forward to seeing your reaction from the recently installed mods, specifically the RMM as I'm contemplating options for this myself. I've been leaning toward the Perrin inserts due to minimal NVH, but I've used Hasport in the past and their quality is top notch.
Thank you Nitroturtle for chiming in and glad to hear you have enjoyed the content Man, had I known about the 106SX I’d have gone that way heh. Was hesitant at first due to slim possibility of valve leak through, but have heard only positive feedback like yours Just wish Fumotos had male threads to allow for an end cap.
Will definitely report back with thoughts on the Hasport. Have the oil cooler and radiator to throw on while the bumper is off so hopefully it won’t take too long...It’s also a matter of balancing time with the family also, heh. Considered going with the Perrin inserts. That seems like a very good option. Nice thing is it will be easy to switch back if the Hasport NVH is too much.
Hoping the RMM + new wheel/tire setup will really plant the car.
Started the HKS oil cooler install. At this point, car is raised, oil drained, oil filter pulled, front bumper, left side fake vent and undercarriage shield are off. **Any reference to (Pxx) numbers refers to parts listed in the HKS online instructions.
Took inventory of all the parts. Just missing the rivets and punch plate which was disclosed at time of the sale and is easily sourced. Picked them up today.
Read through the instructions and noticed it called for more openings in the fake vent, than had previously removed. **update DO NOT cut the diamonds colored in red even though HKS instructions say to.
This is the reason not to: Bumper shows through behind those cuts. I’ll have to order a new plastic vent. SMH
Busted out the butane torch, box cutter and some spare razor blades.
Heated the blade to make cutting plastic super easy. Used this method for all plastic cutting for this mod. Again, credit boosted180sx for this awesome tip!
Cut (2) sides of a diamond before needing to reheat the blade. Cuts like butter baby!
After making the extra cuts reinstalled the fake vent to the bumper.
Removed these (3) bolts securing the LH brake duct with a 10mm socket, extension and ratchet.
Brake duct slid right out.
Removed these (2) bolts and pulled the brake duct bracket.
Instructions are to cut brake duct bracket at the green line. I used an air grinder with cut off wheel.
Best practice is a bench vice. Mines buried so opted for vice grips to hold the bracket safely since it’s small. Wore eye protection.
brake duct bracket modified.
Ground the (2) topside rivets from the brake duct.
Then squished the remnants so the rivets would come off.
Left hand brake duct modified.
Instructions said to cut this plastic tab inside the bumper and above the left fog light. Marked the cut line with a red sharpie...that is not blood, heh.
Heater blade technique again.
Cut super easy.
Removed the drivers side front wheel to access the wheel well. Converted the dimensions provided by HKS from mm to inches and marked the area to cut. Wrote these down in case anyone picks up the HKS oil cooler and views this. Used the backside of a tape measure as a straight edge since the well is not perfectly flat
Zip tied these also. Instructions said there was a 3rd spot to do but couldn’t locate it.
Next was to install the oil filter mount. Tools and parts needed:
22MM socket and torque wrench set to 47nm
Oil filter mount
Some clean oil and a rag
A bolt with 10mm head, previously removed
Made sure the old filter surface was clean.
Lubed the o-ring and inserted to the new oil filter mount.
Fit up the oil filter mount and threaded in the center bolt to secure it. Used the 10mm bolt head to maintain the required spacing between the top blue filter mount and the AC bracket, per the instructions.
Tightened the centerbolt to 47nm.
HKS oil filter mount installed and ready to go! Pulled the 10mm spacer bolt.
Cut this insulation tape in half to wrap the new oil supply and return lines... No heat needed here
Installed (1) of the insulation tape to the long hose by folding it lengthwise starting at 80mm or 3-1/4” from the 45 degree end. Secured it using stainless steel wire (not included in the kit). Used 19 gauge which was overkill. Suggest using smaller wire. Used lineman’s pliers to twist and secure the wires.
Folded the ends of the wire over on itself so it won’t hurt if it were to snag someone.
Each insulation tape took (4) wires.
On the long hose marked 370mm or 14-1/2” from the end with the U-bend.
On the shorter hose measured 30mm or 1-1/4” from the 45 degree end and installed the insulation tape as above.
The insulation tape seems a little inadequate. I suggest adding some extra insulation to avoid heat soak. Mario_kart hooked me up by including DEI flame proof sleeves, for better heat and abrasion protection. Pulled them over the HKS insulation tape.
Wired each end of the sleeve, Twisted the wire then folded it over like on the insulation tape.
Folded over, no sharp edges.
Then bent the wire over so nothing to snag
Short and long hoses ready to connect to the oil cooler core with the U-bends. The ends with the 45 will connect to the oil filter mount.
Won’t cover assembly of the oil cooler core and ducting as it is very straightforward. Just need the right sized allen and combo wrench for the fasteners.
As posted previously, opted to have my ducting powder coated black. Cost to do so was $80.
Install a conical seal at the hose connection.
make sure the seal is fully seated.
Installed the U-bend side of the longer hose, then threaded hand tight. Final tightening with wrenches will be done when the cooler is mounted on the car. Repeated for the short hose.
Long hose went on this side of the core. Then installed (3) large zip ties. The (2) on the lower right bracket were installed facing up. Then routed the long hose inside that bracket.
Pulled the zip ties down and through. It would be difficult to install them after the hose was in place.
Pull the zip ties right then cut the excess.
The short hose hangs free, no zip ties or bracket. Oil cooler is ready to install to the car
Another angle. Looks good
Cut a new punching plate out of perforated aluminum using straight aviation snips. A pre-cut punching plate is included in the HKS oil cooler kit so you won’t have to do this step. However it is relevant. If this plate touches the brake duct it will need to be trimmed and snips work good.
Used the piece cut from the wheel well as a template. May need to trim, but it’s in the ballpark
Bracket (P8) installed with (2) bolts (P30) and washers (P36).
reached inside the plastic brake duct and inserted (2) button bolts (P28) where the original rivets were removed.
Attached bracket (P14) then secured with (2) washers (P35) and self lock nuts (P32). Used a 5/16 socket and 3mm Allen
Reinstalled the original brake duct bracket that had been cut, with just the bottom bolt installed and tightened. Also installed bracket (P7) with bolt (P29) and washer (P36).
Test fit the brake duct and bracket (P14) to the original brake duct bracket and determined the original needed to be adjusted for the brake duct and bracket (P14) to fit properly. Used a grinder to notch the OEM bracket.
With the bracket notched like this, the new brake duct bracket (P14) fit properly.
Used the small spacer (P19) and original OEM bolt to attach the bracket (P14) to the modded OEM bracket.
Inserted the small spacer (P19) between the old bracket and new bracket (P14) and re-inserted an OEM bolt.
With the plastic brake duct back in place, tightened that bolt and did the same for the bottom OEM bolt.
Functionality of the brake duct was not altered in any way. The mod was just to allow use of the new HKS bracket.
Went back to install the punching plate to the wheel well.
Here is the replacement piece I fabricated. Trimmed off the green line to make sure it would not interfere with the new oil hoses.
Pressed the punch plate against the wheel well and used a heated pick to punch through the plastic. The punch plate served as a guide for the holes.The pick was the perfect size for the rivets. No drill needed.
Punched the first hole then put a rivet. Placed the punching plate on it then made holes for the remaining rivets.
Used this rivet gun with medium length rivets. Worked great and was $20 from Amazon.
Pushed rivets through wheel well and punching plate. Fully seated the rivet gun on the live end. Gave (2) squeezes of the handle, the rivets expanded and the excess snapped off.
Installed (11) rivets. The HKS kit comes with (9).
Punching plate installed. In hindsight, suppose could have powder coated it black also...for now likely will paint it and see how it holds up
Began installing the HKS oil cooler core to the car. It is a pain, but doable.
First removed this OEM bolt. Bracket (P9) will attach here using bolt (P30) and washer (P36). The core side bracket will connect here also.
Set the core on a stool to keep it elevated.
Fed the oil cooler lines through this opening.
View of the oil lines being pulled from underneath. Kept the lines in front of the rubber hoses.
It was difficult to feed the lines and position the core, but that probably is because the extra insulation increases the hose diameter. Fortunately my brother in law was visiting, so he pulled the hoses from underneath while I pushed and positioned the core.
Got the hoses and core almost in place. But still need to line up the core brackets to the brackets on the car.
Here is the lower bracket target. Fitment was tight, so sprayed kroil on the bracket rubber boot to help the core slide on. A long bolt (P30) and washer (P36) will lock in this bracket after the other (2) brackets are tied in.
Fastened this upper bracket with (2) short bolts (P29), washers (P36) and flange nuts (P33) after the core bracket lined up. There is another bracket on the far end, where the OEM bolt was removed in the first photo and the oil fittings on the core still need tightening and there wasn’t any space.
So removed some more push clips from the wheel well and under tray to pull the plastics and punch plate back.
Much better. With the push clips removed there was plenty of play and could reach what was needed
Close up of the lower bracket rubber boot that was sprayed with kroil to help the core bracket slide on.
Installed this bracket (P9) closest to the engine bay. There was a zip tie that needed to be slid to the left, to permit this contraption to move more to the right so it would line up with the top bolt hole. There are no threads on the car for the lower bolt hole (shown with a bolt temporarily installed, it’s just inserted as a guide). Doggone it!!
Slid the large spacer (P18) behind bracket (P9) so it would be sandwiched between the bracket and the car.
The lower hole in the car that calls for a bolt (P30) and washer (P36), is NOT threaded, which is a problem. There is no way to get a nut on the backside because it’s a hollow channel. The only way to do so would be to remove the crash beam to expose the channel to reach in there, which I am attempting to do. More on that later.
Thinking the purpose of this problematic bolt is mainly to keep spacer (P18) in place, which can be accomplished with bailing wire inserted through the hole and wrapped around on itself...Core feels solid as is.
My preference is to use the bolt and nut, but debating whether it’s worth the hassle of pulling the crash beam just for this bolt. I’m about 90% into doing so, having pulled the headlights and all bolting, however the beam is also connected to rubber seals which look like a pain to re-install.
Core top bracket attached to bracket (P8) and Core side bracket attached to bracket (P9)
Underneath view of core lower bracket attached to bracket (P7) using bolt (P30) and washer (P36). Used a long extension and 10mm socket for this.