Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

SethNES

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Nice you were able to drop your time pretty good by 5 and onward. If you say theirs some tread left I'll take your word. Definitely got all you could out of those tires. I'm sure you can get into the 20s easily next time with fresh tires.
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Thank you. Early on there was some slower drivers and point by passing was allowed on one short straight, not the entire track, like normal.

This event was hosted by the Shelby club geared more towards driver’s instruction and car enjoyment. Lots of American muscle new and old. Was on the tail of a newer Mustang that wouldn’t let me pass for several laps, so exited and re-entered the track to get some clean laps, lol.

Tires aren’t corded, but not a fan of taking it that far. Could have finished the remaining sessions if the missus hadn’t made plans for us. But definitely would have pushed harder if had the confidence of a fresher set. That, combined with cooler temps,a little more practice and I’m confident I’d be able to drop my time by several seconds. My previous best was in the 1:29’s. Pretty sure I beat that on the early session, but the Hotlap app didn’t record when I switched to Spotify to get some driving tunes going. :doh:

Finally figuring out how to heel toe or having auto rev match ON would probably help. I drive with it OFF.

Still will be able to drive around abit until the wife gives me permission for a new set, lol
 
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MarcusgibbS

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Yea that's why I like my weathertech mat set. Usually just have to dump them out and barely vacuum underneath. I then spray them with armorall which is a no no because makes them slippery as heck the first few days but then goes away. I just can't help myself from doing it.
Weather tech sells their own so they don’t get slippery. Don’t skimp out on the real stuff.
Although it is hilarious to see somebody fall trying to get into their car with slippery floor mats 🤣
 

SethNES

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Well at least if you fall getting in then you have seat to fall into. Now if you fall getting out. That would be awkward. Thanks for heads up though I'll check it out. Knowing weathertech they probably charge arm and leg for it. I might try out this Mcguires ultimate protectant on it first might not be as slippery as armorall. Apparently armorall is crap but I never had too bad experiences with them except their head light wipes are complete shit. Gotta get that 30 dollar Mcguires with buffing and sanding attachments that actually works. Mcguires 10 dollar treatment isn't too bad but doesn't do much against pretty oxidized lights
 
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fatherpain

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Driver mod update:

Did a follow up blood test a few weeks back and the doctor was really surprised my A1C dropped to 6.3 down from 10.4 when I was having all kinds of issues a several months back. Cholesterol also came way down.

Can’t say I was perfect addressing my bad habits. Started strong then gradually went back to some old ways…Still eat things I really shouldn’t but not as much as I used to… and need to incorporate a lot more exercise into the routine. But switched to primarily drinking water.

Dropped (20) lbs and it’s stayed off…Might be able to lose another 10 if get serious about it.

Viewed in car terms, it’s like swapping the OEM battery to a lighter one… and the race helmet doesn’t feel as tight on my cheeks haha :)
 


SethNES

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So you did a self weight reduction mod. I need one of those myself.
 

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Your build is absolutely amazing! I do have a question on the J's Racing lip, the way its mounted on the bumper would you say it's more than sturdy for high speeds. I am really wanting to run it as well just scared that with the added downforce it would rip right off the bumper at really high speeds. Thanks in advance!
 
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fatherpain

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Thank you @WrenchMunky appreciate it brother.

Had similar concerns about the J’s Racing lip not being chassis mounted, but J’s Racing Japan claims the lip has been track tested with no issues.

Though I’ve driven the car sparingly since the lip was installed, have envisioned taking the car to 146mph for a short duration, with no issues.

Also did a track day at Streets of Willow hitting 105mph no issues.

Would like to test it at Big Willow 130-140mph, but need new tires and the wife is watching my activities like a hawk now, so dunno when I’ll be able to go again, lol.

If the J’s lip was longer or heavier, I’d be more concerned about the bumper tearing off at high speed. FWIW, am confident this will not occur under the conditions the car will see at the track.

However, the R’s streetability has been severely downgraded and will only get worse when the car is finally lowered. The lip already has some hairline cracks from light scraping, so that is something to consider, due to the price. Is the look and function worth the anxiety?

An option to consider if want to make 100% sure the bumper doesn’t tear away would be to add a chassis mount front splitter to support the J’s lip.

Racebred splitters ($750) are a good option, though it is constructed of plywood.

My preferred chassis mount splitter would be K&R_Perfomance_Studio carbon fiber with Battle Aero mounts…However, this route is cost prohibitive ($2500) and I’d rather incorporate a Motec C125 dash display first for that kind of money.


Your build is absolutely amazing! I do have a question on the J's Racing lip, the way its mounted on the bumper would you say it's more than sturdy for high speeds. I am really wanting to run it as well just scared that with the added downforce it would rip right off the bumper at really high speeds. Thanks in advance!
 

SethNES

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You have joint bank account with wife I assume? Maybe open a checking account at a credit union by yourself then split your automatic deposit with 90% going to joint and 10% going to new account for car fund. Then tell her that company is going through a little rough time and knocked your pay down a little.

Who am I kidding she's probably a good detective like they always are and you'd get caught. Don't want to send you to the dog house.
 
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78224662-01DE-4BD3-A21B-674D7A5E0E86.jpeg

Though not impossible, unscrewing the Radium PCV oil catch can to drain, then putting it back again is a pain. It also introduces the possibility of damaging the can’s o-ring seal that could result in a boost leak.

To save my wrists, broke down and purchased Radium’s remote petcock drain valve. Don’t like the idea of spending $30 for essentially $5 worth of parts, but I’ve gone this far already so why not ??

Besides the kit saves the time and hassle of procuring the parts separately.

Radium says the instructions are online, but they are not. It’s a simple install however.


F2AEE340-A0D8-41D4-9758-0111DEA24B72.jpeg

With the can removed, install this fitting and tighten. It has an o-ring to seal it.


DB3437BC-28A0-494D-AE2F-A20FE7D4699E.jpeg

The rest the kit consists of this directional plastic valve that operates 1/4 turn open and close, a length of hose and (2) hose clamps. The kit really needs (3) clamps if one were to want to run the hose to the bottom of the car..


FA4F732C-54B8-447A-8916-C528B3E52419.jpeg

Opted to go with this configuration and skip the extra length of hose, otherwise would have to raise the car each time wanted to drain the contents.


B14291A1-042F-4CE4-8172-71008194CDC7.jpeg

Radium PCV catch can remote petcock drain installed. Nice red handle for visibility and operates smoothly. Will hold an empty plastic bottle under the drain when it’s time to empty the can. Much easier and highly recommended for those rocking a Radium PCV can. I won’t miss messing with the PCV can at all, heh.

As previously mentioned, the CCV version is really easy to empty if remove the mounting bolts so this drain kit isn’t necessary for that can.
Hey are you happy with the drain kit? Thinking about getting it. @Lust I seem to recall you preferring to unscrew the can to empty?
 


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You have joint bank account with wife I assume? Maybe open a checking account at a credit union by yourself then split your automatic deposit with 90% going to joint and 10% going to new account for car fund. Then tell her that company is going through a little rough time and knocked your pay down a little.

Who am I kidding she's probably a good detective like they always are and you'd get caught. Don't want to send you to the dog house.
Well, if the monthly contribution on pains part goes down if he's at the dog house, maybe a month or 2 wouldn't be so bad 😂.

@fatherpain Love this build. Been quietly following since I got my 2018 shortly after.
 
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fatherpain

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Yes. The Radium petcock drain kit works well on the PCV can. Have a 2nd kit for the CCV, but haven’t made it a priority to install since that can catches so little.

Definitely recommend a drain valve over manually unscrewing the catch can for the following reasons:
  • Unscrewing the PCV can is kind of a pain and a little difficult to reach. The threads are fine pitch so takes numerous turns to undo. Combined it makes for a carpal tunnel inducing.
  • There is a risk of damaging the rubber O-ring seal when it’s disturbed. My PCV can developed a boost leak and Radium had to send a replacement.
  • Reinstalling the can is similarly annoying + a slight risk of cross threading if not careful.
Didn’t run the provided hose and valve to the bottom of the car per the instructions.

Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 34A6A4BF-E08D-44B0-8305-2ADFA0CD444E

Cut it short and have the drain right underneath the can. To drain, I reach down with a plastic water bottle, cut in half, then collect the oil. Otherwise would only be able to do it from under the car during an oil change.

The best solution would be to eliminate the short hose entirely, by sourcing the correct size drain valve so it threads directly to the can.


Hey are you happy with the drain kit? Thinking about getting it. @Lust I seem to recall you preferring to unscrew the can to empty?
 

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Yes. The Radium petcock drain kit works well on the PCV can. Have a 2nd kit for the CCV, but haven’t made it a priority to install since that can catches so little.

Definitely recommend a drain valve over manually unscrewing the catch can for the following reasons:
  • Unscrewing the PCV can is kind of a pain and a little difficult to reach. The threads are fine pitch so takes numerous turns to undo. Combined it makes for a carpal tunnel inducing.
  • There is a risk of damaging the rubber O-ring seal when it’s disturbed. My PCV can developed a boost leak and Radium had to send a replacement.
  • Reinstalling the can is similarly annoying + a slight risk of cross threading if not careful.
Didn’t run the provided hose and valve to the bottom of the car per the instructions.

34A6A4BF-E08D-44B0-8305-2ADFA0CD444E.jpeg

Cut it short and have the drain right underneath the can. To drain, I reach down with a plastic water bottle, cut in half, then collect the oil. Otherwise would only be able to do it from under the car during an oil change.

The best solution would be to eliminate the short hose entirely, by sourcing the correct size drain valve so it threads directly to the can.
Just picked up a dual catch can kit for a good deal. Seller said it isn't leaking but I may reassemble with thread sealer on all fitting to be safe. Happen to know the thread size for the drain? Shouldn't be hard to find drain valves that can screw directly into the cans.

Edit: the drain fitting is 4AN.
 
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Lwater45

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Here is a surefire method to remove the downpipe bolts, nuts and studs without snapping them off.

I’ve used this on much more stubborn equipment in a power plant, when I was a mechanic.... but didn’t get to confirm it works on the downpipe hardware until today.


DA495506-215D-4907-9C90-9228C678FE8F.jpeg

You will need some Kroil or similar rust penetrant.


56DE7E23-A802-4D44-BE5E-56C726E0BEF6.jpeg

And a butane torch and freezIng spray with a fine aiming straw.


9E1EDCB8-E50F-49C8-B8BB-BD44BCBB6AAD.jpeg

first spray kroil on the threads and bolts. There are (2) bolts that are threaded directly into the body of the turbo housing and (2) nuts threaded onto studs. Be sure to spray kroil through the (2) backside holes in the turbo housing. Let sit for about (10) minutes. Be sure to wear eye protection and leather gloves.


6C7891B0-67C3-456A-9354-121D7B414DA6.jpeg

For the threaded bolts, apply heat evenly to the turbo housing where the threads engage, circled in blue. Do this for about (1) minute. The kroil will smoke off. Does not need to get red hot. This will make it expand.


36E6FCBC-23D7-4867-8586-2D1BC8290C59.jpeg

Immediately spray the bolt head only with the freeze spray for 5-10 seconds. This will make it contract.


B699A8DD-E540-4AE3-8331-3C9E0F97FD11.jpeg

With it still hot, quickly use a 14mm socket and breaker bar and apply even steady pressure to break it free. At this point the external housing is hot (expanded) and the internal bolt thread is cooler (contracted).... A variation of the ball passing easily through the heated ring trick in physics....:cool:

If the bolt doesn't move and you are pulling hard, Stop. Repeat this process and try again.

Always apply pressure perpendicular to the plane and try to keep force as close to the fastener as possible. Avoid pulling from extended, offset angles unless absolutely necessary. The lower and rear fasteners may require a 14mm deep socket.


986C1C14-CF1C-4735-84ED-4883934D7EB6.jpeg

For the (2) nuts, simply heat the nut for about (30) seconds. Try to hit all sides to make it expand evenly.


EA094A01-AD34-46AB-8CF0-6A0CA6C6116E.jpeg

Immediately spray just tip of the exposed thread to make it shrink.


FE51BF68-3ED7-49FC-BEFB-504E2E1339BC.jpeg

Pop the nut free with your wrench.


6AB9E2E9-1E46-4AAA-BD07-E8F0CD83459E.jpeg

Do the same for the other nut below.


A9D1C37B-A303-4353-AE60-67E6AD39CA48.jpeg

And the other stud. It’s a little tricky to get the torch positioned to heat the backside, but it can be done. Cool the bolt head on the other side and break it free.

If wish to remove the (2) remaining studs from the turbo housing, double nut them, then use the methods described above.


8FCE6D59-B05F-44DA-90A9-548497465D01.jpeg
Success no broken bolts or studs when removing the downpipe ;)
Here is a surefire method to remove the downpipe bolts, nuts and studs without snapping them off.

I’ve used this on much more stubborn equipment in a power plant, when I was a mechanic.... but didn’t get to confirm it works on the downpipe hardware until today.


DA495506-215D-4907-9C90-9228C678FE8F.jpeg

You will need some Kroil or similar rust penetrant.


56DE7E23-A802-4D44-BE5E-56C726E0BEF6.jpeg

And a butane torch and freezIng spray with a fine aiming straw.


9E1EDCB8-E50F-49C8-B8BB-BD44BCBB6AAD.jpeg

first spray kroil on the threads and bolts. There are (2) bolts that are threaded directly into the body of the turbo housing and (2) nuts threaded onto studs. Be sure to spray kroil through the (2) backside holes in the turbo housing. Let sit for about (10) minutes. Be sure to wear eye protection and leather gloves.


6C7891B0-67C3-456A-9354-121D7B414DA6.jpeg

For the threaded bolts, apply heat evenly to the turbo housing where the threads engage, circled in blue. Do this for about (1) minute. The kroil will smoke off. Does not need to get red hot. This will make it expand.


36E6FCBC-23D7-4867-8586-2D1BC8290C59.jpeg

Immediately spray the bolt head only with the freeze spray for 5-10 seconds. This will make it contract.


B699A8DD-E540-4AE3-8331-3C9E0F97FD11.jpeg

With it still hot, quickly use a 14mm socket and breaker bar and apply even steady pressure to break it free. At this point the external housing is hot (expanded) and the internal bolt thread is cooler (contracted).... A variation of the ball passing easily through the heated ring trick in physics....:cool:

If the bolt doesn't move and you are pulling hard, Stop. Repeat this process and try again.

Always apply pressure perpendicular to the plane and try to keep force as close to the fastener as possible. Avoid pulling from extended, offset angles unless absolutely necessary. The lower and rear fasteners may require a 14mm deep socket.


986C1C14-CF1C-4735-84ED-4883934D7EB6.jpeg

For the (2) nuts, simply heat the nut for about (30) seconds. Try to hit all sides to make it expand evenly.


EA094A01-AD34-46AB-8CF0-6A0CA6C6116E.jpeg

Immediately spray just tip of the exposed thread to make it shrink.


FE51BF68-3ED7-49FC-BEFB-504E2E1339BC.jpeg

Pop the nut free with your wrench.


6AB9E2E9-1E46-4AAA-BD07-E8F0CD83459E.jpeg

Do the same for the other nut below.


A9D1C37B-A303-4353-AE60-67E6AD39CA48.jpeg

And the other stud. It’s a little tricky to get the torch positioned to heat the backside, but it can be done. Cool the bolt head on the other side and break it free.

If wish to remove the (2) remaining studs from the turbo housing, double nut them, then use the methods described above.


8FCE6D59-B05F-44DA-90A9-548497465D01.jpeg
Success no broken bolts or studs when removing the downpipe ;)
Love your write ups man, inspired me to start modding mine more heavily. Did you replace the gasket between the turbo and the DP? Or reuse the old one?
 
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fatherpain

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Thanks brother. Always great to see past content helping other builds and being appreciated :)

I used a new gasket as that is a “best” maintenance practice we preach in the power industry….

However, this isn’t high pressure and worst case would some type of boost error requiring re-work to replace the gasket.

The gasket is on the pricier side. Seem to remember it being something like $60 at Hondapartsnow.

That said, as long as the old gasket isn’t scratched or gouged, and the sealing surfaces are clean…. Am confident it could be reused. Just be sure to tighten everything down evenly in a cross pattern.

My old gasket looked good so kept it for a spare.

In the end, it would be a $60 gamble on your part, with the odds in your favor.

Guessing most repair shops re-use them as they are special order and probably don’t have them on hand when a customer shows up wanting a DP installed.

So my final answer is it’s probably ok to reuse the old one if in good condition.

Though preferred to replace with new, when possible,


Love your write ups man, inspired me to start modding mine more heavily. Did you replace the gasket between the turbo and the DP? Or reuse the old one?
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