Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

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fatherpain

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  • #76
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Hmmm just saw this posted on the SoCal CTR Facebook pages by Mark Tienswang and Erik
Koski, regarding possible inferior rear window seals on 2017/18 models, that they advise having replaced under warranty. Called my dealership and made an appointment for Monday. The service department dude I spoke to said it’s only a warranty item if there is an existing problem, which there isn’t. We’ll see if they honor it. If not, then I’ll order the seal through my nephew for a discount.


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This is the original rear window seal. They are saying it curls up and may cause a problem down the road. Photo credit: Erik Koski


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Here is the replacement seal. Photo credit: Erik Koski.


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This is the issue. Maybe minor, or something that can turn into a leak issue down the road. My passenger side is lifting a tiny amount.

Very cool of these guys to share this information. It doesn’t rain much here in SoCal so likely wouldn’t experience the issue until well past warranty expiration. Will report back what happens at Freeway Honda.

***update*** took to the service department and they took photos. Said they will call in 1-2 weeks when they have the parts.



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You know that old saying life imitates art?
Whelp, yesterday paralleled one of my favorite movies: Predator (1987) and one of its cooler characters, Mac, played by Bill Duke, a total badass... which I’m not, btw, heh.

The TE37SL’s were boxed and stowed in the hatch, seats folded down. Had picked them up during lunch from the ceramic shop and just got home from working OT.


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Wife had plans for us to attend a Christmas party. Having to explain why there were (2) big boxes containing wheels would have been dicey...so decided to “discreetly” move them to the garage while she was showering and getting ready, heh.

Me (while carrying the first box): I’m gonna have me some fun...I’m gonna have me some fun...I’m gonna have me some fun...

Successfully completed the first leg of the mission and was taking in the second box...when this happened...just like it did to Mac...


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Me: I’m gonna have me some fun....I’m gonna have... Ehh? What’s this??


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Uh oh...


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TOM!!! WHAT ARE YOU CARRYING?!! WHAT DID YOU BUY NOW!!!! WHAT’S IN THAT BOX?!!!
TOM!!!!


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BUSTED!!! Doggone it, haha...Should have remembered my wife probably can see infrared like this.

Kidding aside, she is actually really cool and understanding of my obsessions (more so than I deserve), so I got off abit easier than the fictional character Mac did when the Predator found him, heh.
We are doing some “house mods” so that might have earned me some leeway...there definitely is some truth to the saying “happy wife, happy life.” ;)

I miss the good old 80’s and there were some fantastic movies produced during that time like The Predator. 1987 also was the year I graduated high school, which my oldest son is just starting. Damn, where did the all of the time go?

Can you guys imagine how the CTR would have been received if there were some way to time travel it back to 1987? It would have been considered a supercar back then with its 5 second 0-60 and it’s all around awesome handling ;)

For any younger forum members that haven’t seen the original Predator, please do me a favor and give it a shot next time you’re looking for something fun to watch. So many memorable characters and Arnold was still at the top of his game.

I guess that’s one good thing about having a semi-crappy memory... I find if I wait long enough then watch a movie again, it’s almost like watching it for the very first time, lol.
 
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  • #78
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Ordered a Radium coolant cap to replace the OEM.


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OEM doesn’t look bad on the Radium coolant expansion tank.


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Radium Cap has the “completeness” factor going for it though. Looks nice, but literally takes 20x the effort to screw on to the tank compared to OEM. Had to press with everything I had using both hands. The tank will grenade before this cap ever works its way loose, smh.

It is disappointing the Radium coolant expansion tank does not come with this cap standard and makes you purchase it separately :(


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The sight glass level also developed this annoyingly air bubble. Tried tapping it to get it to go away, but no luck. Hopefully won’t have to pull the tank and reseal and tighten the fittings. Will have to inspect for any signs of leakage.
 
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A buddy recently picked up a Type R in PMM and is taking it for PFF and ceramic coating this week. This post is aimed to assist anyone with a newly ceramic coated car and are unsure how to wash it. Found this a bit daunting at first and took a little while to get it figured out and properly set up

Unfortunately no more “regular” or automated car washes are allowed for us. I’ve hear there are “touchless” car wash places but haven’t seen or used one yet.

It’s not recommended to wash a freshly ceramic coated car until (2) weeks have passed so it has enough time to properly cure...which is good because that allows some time to get the equipment you will need:

A pressure washer, preferably with a 2.0 GPM flow rate or higher.
SGS28 gun w/25 or 40 degree spray tip
PF22 Foam cannon
(2) 5 gallon plastic buckets
Microfiber wash mitts
Microfiber drying towels
Wheel cleaning brush - I am using Woolies
Car shampoo - cannot contain carnauba wax.
Wheel cleaner in a plastic spray bottle.
Leaf blower or air dryer *optional*
Deionized water system *optional*
Kobrajet hose *optional*


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Starting with the pressure washer. I use this Comet rated for 1300PSI and 2.2 GPM. It has a higher flow rate than standard 1.8 GPM pressure washers, which makes the job quicker, however the downside is it’s a bit pricier. Amazon currently has them listed for $538 which is the cheapest I’ve seen. They are normally $650-699.

It has a carry handle so I just place it on a stool when in use. It’s modded with a Kobrajet hose which doesn’t kink or get twisted. A pressure washer repair shop adapted the hose for me, after I had no luck finding the special fittings needed.


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This is the SGS28 gun with 25 or 40 degree green spray nozzle. Anything less (like a 15 or 0 degree) will damage your paint.


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This is the foam cannon that attaches in place of the spray nozzle. Add shampoo and dilute with water to the instructions.


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These are the wash products I use.
Cool guy for wheels.
Shift to wash the car
Throttle for removing bird turds between washes

These are the products sold by the ceramic coating shop that did my car. I purchase these in (1) gallon sizes. There probably are cheaper alternatives that work as well.


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(2) 5 gallon buckets of clean water and wash mitt.


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Worx WG520 leaf blower. TypeSiR suggested this tool and it works fantastic. I like that it is corded so don’t need to deal with a battery and it’s inexpensive. There is a slight risk of damaging paint if a rock somehow got sucked into the intake. A filtered blower is the safest method.
 
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It’s recommended to clean the wheels before washing the rest of the car.
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Look at this dusty old wheel.


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I like to begin by rinsing the wheels really well using the pressure washer, making sure to spray the calipers and brake pads thoroughly at close range. Have not had any issues with brake squeal or rocks since I’ve made this part of the routine.


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Then spray wheel cleaner of your choice. I use “Cool Guy” and it works well to react and loosen the brake dust.


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Use a soft wheel brush to scrub the spokes, inner barrel and calipers. Wheel Woolies work well.


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About 1/2 way through a wheel, stop and rinse the brush.


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Then continue scrubbing until all spots are hit.


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Lastly, thoroughly rinse the chemical and crud off using the pressure washer. Repeat for the (3) remaining wheels, then proceed with washing the rest of the car. As a final step, can apply tire dressing for the rubber.


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Results: Before


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And after ;)


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front wheels also look great when cleaned
 
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  • #81
I find the best time to wash the car is in the morning or evening so water doesn’t evaporate so quickly and you have time to work.

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Pre-rinse the car completely. A lot of loose dirt and dust will fall right off.


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Connect your foam cannon to the SGS gun, filled with car shampoo of your choice. Diluted to instructions and safe for ceramic coatings.


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Spray car with the foam cannon.


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Then let the shampoo sit for about 5-10 minutes.


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Starting from the roof, handwash using a safe microfiber washmitt. Doesn’t take much effort.


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After several passes, rinse the mitt in (2) clean buckets filled with water. First in one then the second. Continue scrubbing the car, then repeat.


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The ceramic shop claimed I simply needed to pre-rinse, shampoo and rinse to wash the car...no scrubbing. That’s BS and here is the proof. The right has been gone over using a wash mitt. The left side has not ;)


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After the car has been hit with a wash mitt, rinse off the shampoo.


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Can use a leaf blower here to blast off excess water...then use a microfiber towel to dry off the car. I use (2) of these per wash. If you pick up and use a deionized water filtration system, I hear there is no drying needed.


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If your son or daughter makes the mistake of coming to see what you’re doing, put them to work ;)


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All done. Total time to wash, about 30-45 minutes. All that’s left would be to apply tire dressing and vacuum the car ;)
 
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Here is a really cool exterior mod that improves the look of the car. Picked up these Revi Motorwerks Depo smoked sidemarkers on Amazon for about $45.

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They come with amber bulbs but do not come with instructions. That said, there are videos on YouTube that explain how and it’s pretty easy to figure out


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First turn the wheel away from the sidemarker to provide room to work. I’m a big proponent of “smarter not harder”....even though I can be a doofus at times.


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Remove the (3) Phillips head screws.


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Then gently pry back the black plastic shroud. So you can access this orange clip.


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Press the clip with a flat head screwdriver and the side marker will pop out.


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The side marker won’t come off until the grey light bulb plug is disconnected.


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Press the tab with a flat screwdriver and off it comes.


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This is the tab that needs to be pressed.


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Here is the side marker completely removed. Now need to remove the gray socket and replace the light bulb.


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Twist the socket and it pops off.


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Remove the original bulb preferably without touching with your skin.


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Then insert the new amber bulb and install to the new side marker.


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Line up the side marker and snap it in.


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Reach in and reconnect the electrical plug. This was the toughest part of the install.


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Put the plastic shroud back to its original position and reinstall the (3) screws. Repeat for the other side and the job is done!


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Turn on the lights to verify it works.


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Yes yes yes!!! Looking good ;)


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Original side marker.


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Depo smoked side marker installed. Fitment is perfect and they look pretty dope. Quality product for sure. Digging the new look...hoping Revi Motorwerks produces smoked taillights soon ;)
 
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...

I miss the good old 80’s and there were some fantastic movies produced during that time like The Predator. 1987 also was the year I graduated high school, which my oldest son is just starting. Damn, where did the all of the time go?

....
haha. I was hoping to see you don your new wheels :drool: when I clicked on this thread. Didn't see a trip down memory lane coming. The 80's really produced some of the best movies that bring back fond memories: The Blue Lagoon, Aliens, Terminator, Star Wars, Back to the Future, ET, Top Gun, Full Metal Jacket, and The Blue Lagoon. Wow, got to re-watch some of these fine masterpieces.

Well, enough of nostalgia. What tires are putting on the new wheels? Brand and size?
 
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Recently discovered there are “revival” movie theaters here in SoCal, so there’s a chance to see these classics again on the big screen if I’m lucky...gonna try to catch John Carpenter’s The Thing in January, heh.

Rims are at a tire shop. Should be ready for pickup tomorrow. Going with hpbyhermann’s suggestion of Bridgestone Potenza RE171R 265-35-18’s.

.
Well, enough of nostalgia. What tires are putting on the new wheels? Brand and size?
 

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Recently discovered there are “revival” movie theaters here in SoCal, so there’s a chance to see these classics again on the big screen if I’m lucky...gonna try to catch John Carpenter’s The Thing in January, heh.

Rims are at a tire shop. Should be ready for pickup tomorrow. Going with hpbyhermann’s suggestion of Bridgestone Potenza RE171R 265-35-18’s.
The Thing was truly a horror movie; scared me to death when I watched it in the dark the first time.

RE71? Those are track-ready tires but may add a little more road noise for daily driving. Great tires from what I heard.
 
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Heh, they sure don’t make movies like that anymore... I’ve seen it a bazillion times and movies like The Thing never get old... that said, have never experienced it on the big screen. Hopefully will be able to catch it January.

Hpbyhermman says the Bridgestones are really good performers, so gonna give it a try. Found them locally for $268 each + mounting, balancing and sales tax. In addition to the cost, a downside is they may only last 17k miles or so.. at my driving pace that might not even be a year :(

Currently experiencing a lot of wheel spin and hop so hoping good tires will eliminate that. I also plan on taking a canyon drive one of these days and want to be confident with the car’s grip. Also have the Hasport 62A RMM coming today so will throw that on either before or after tires and see if that also helps and whether I can deal with the added NVH, ;)

The Thing was truly a horror movie; scared me to death when I watched it in the dark the first time.

RE71? Those are track-ready tires but may add a little more road noise for daily driving. Great tires from what I heard.
 
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Wanted to switch the rear civic lettering to black after seeing hpbyhermann mention them and found they were surprisingly expensive ($70) for (5) letters. No instructions were included, so I pm’d Hermann for install advice and hit up YouTube ;)


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To do this cosmetic mod, needed some non-stick painters tape, a microfiber towel, cleaning solution and..... dental floss??? What the heck?


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The letters have a film covering the adhesive backing.


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Marked the outline of the original lettering with painters tape, to show where the replacement letters are supposed to go.


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Slid the dental floss behind the lettering and worked it back and forth to cut through the adhesive. Wow the floss worked like a champ!


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The floss cut through like butter. Repeated for each letter.


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Letters fell off but left a gummy residue...


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That needed to be removed. Alcohol is mentioned as an effective agent. Didn’t have any so channeled my inner Captain Caveman and peeled it off using my thumb.


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Some of the residue was stubborn, so hit it with a microfiber cloth and some cleaner.


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Surface prepped, applied fresh painters tape as some had been pushed aside during cleaning. Ready for the new letters!


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Did a dry run test fit and traced the outer edges of the template with a pencil. Would have been less stressful had the blue foam been clear or see through.


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With the target marked, peeled off the adhesive backing.


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Pressed on the letters then removed the foam template. Was afraid some of the lettering might miss and land on the painters tape.


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Heyyyyy!!!! Better lucky than good I always say ;)


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Gave each letter a good press to make sure they are on.


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Removed the painters tape and cleaned the surface.


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All done! This is how the lettering probably should have come from the factory. While this may look a little better, it’s not much different than the OEM as the chrome letters seem to pick up and reflect the surrounding black.
 
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  • #88
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A quick preview... just had them installed and had abit of a close call...will elaborate when time permits. For now here are some evening pics of TE37 SL Pressed Double Black 18 x 9.5 +45 on Bridgestone Potenza RE71R 265-35-18’s. Kics Koyo El hub centric rings and kics black wheel lugs. Stock height no drop.

haha. I was hoping to see you don your new wheels :drool: .......
Well, enough of nostalgia. What tires are putting on the new wheels? Brand and size?
 

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A quick preview... just had them installed and had abit of a close call...will elaborate when time permits. For now here are some evening pics of TE37 SL Pressed Double Black 18 x 9.5 +45 on Bridgestone Potenza RE71R 265-35-18’s. Kics Koyo El hub centric rings and kics black wheel lugs. Stock height no drop.
:thumbsup: Looking good! How does it drive now?
 

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