Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

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fatherpain

fatherpain

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59EBAD8E-482D-49FC-AB11-2FBDE414634D.jpeg

The OEM oil pan didn’t have a gasket but had some type of sealant. I opted to go back with Honda Bond liquid gasket.


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Asked my machinist buddies and they suggested applying to both mating surfaces, so started at the engine. Made sure the face was wiped with contact cleaner first.


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A thin bead was all that was needed. Didn’t want too much as it could extrude into the oil pan area and create major issues.


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Smoothed the bead across the sealing face using the high tech finger method. Made sure it was spread thin and uniform. ;)


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Engine prepped for oil pan reinstall.


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Did the same for the new oil pan. Made sure to go around each Of the (17) bolt holes.


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Baffled oil pan prepped for install. I left the passenger side (top) bare, because I didn’t want to gum up the chain linkage while fitting the pan. Seemed like a good idea to apply the remaining Honda bond after the pan was pulled in place… However it wasn’t :doh:

Would apply the entire thing if had a redo.. :rolleyes:


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The reason is the pan was a real b1tch to fit due to the baffles meshing with the engine components. Took a lot of wiggling and finesse to get it to go. :banghead:

Finally got the pan in, but was afraid to pull it back to get room to properly apply the last of the Honda bond then smooth it.

The pulley wheel was in the way and made it super difficult (and painful) and couldn’t get a good look to make sure it got properly covered. 😓
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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B98B2242-77EB-4B96-9E98-A4D414BD7D9F.png

Pressed the baffled oil pan against the engine and started the (17) bolts. Couldn’t find a specific torque pattern for the FK8 so went with something similar to this. Found it helpful to write the number pattern on the pan with a sharpie.


29DB024C-AA53-412F-A057-FEFA6A86A789.jpeg

Lightly hand tightened each bolt in the cross pattern I copied.


125E8D91-C018-4E43-81C7-4724C02593AE.jpeg

Repeated the process with a torque wrench set to 4.2 ft-lbs on the first pass… then (3) more times at the final setting of 8.7 ft-lbs….and a final go around clockwise. Was able to get to do (16) bolts using a 10mm socket and extension. Having the front pipe loose made things easier.


7EF88660-5D2A-4123-BAA1-65E249CD5A98.jpeg

This last bolt required the use of a universal socket.


0FBDE497-E0F1-4803-94D1-02E50513B68C.jpeg

Unit2 Fabrication baffled oil pan installed to the engine and properly torqued! :headbang:

The remainder of the install was just the reverse of what’s already been posted so won’t cover that..

Feeling pretty stoked to have these mods finally on the car... Now can focus on putting everything back together…which should be a piece of cake. :rolleyes:


EDA1F3BE-2137-4455-AA43-859B246E28F4.jpeg
The only give away this oil pan is different than any other is this Unit2 tag.. and a custom port added for a temperature sensor.;)
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Progress after a month:
  • Dream Automotive hard lagged turbo heat shield - Done
  • Dream Automotive hard lagged water pipe - Done
  • Unit2Fab baffled oil pan - Done
  • Oil temperature and pressure sensor install. - Deferred until Motec C125 dash display added
  • Updated Eventuri CF turbo inlet tube
  • XDI HPFP - May defer until after everything is back together and all systems are verified to have no leaks. Would also need to have car retuned
  • Flex Fuel capability. Trying to figure out what's needed. Ideally would have this done the same time as the XDI HPFP.
  • J's Racing Grill emblem holder
  • Refill oil and leak test
  • Refill radiator fluid and leak test
  • Intercooler leak test
  • Front and rear brake pad change
  • Engine bay cleaning
  • Replace (2) front tires
Seems likes it been slow going... To me at least. But as mentioned previously its sometimes hard to commit the time needed to make serious progress. Today's my wife's day off, so doubt I'll get away with wrenching on the car today :rolleyes:

That said, I've learned a lot and reinforced past knowledge. Seems 2nd nature and easy now, to remove the DP, FP, RMM, airbox, inlet tube, CCV catch can, turbo, oil vacuum pump, serpentine belt and AC Compressor, oil pan and water tube. The FK8 is a great platform for the aspiring DIY mechanic :thumbsup:
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Whelp, yeah as feared, it’s been a challenge finding the time needed to put the car back together, so proceeding at a geriatric pace… Hey I can make that joke as I’ll be turning (52) next month 😂

Reinstalled the RMM, front pipe, oil cooler sandwich plate and oil lines…. Found out the hard way the turbo/downpipe gasket needs to be orientated this way (reverse of how it came off), otherwise the outer tab hits the Dream Automotive turbo heat shield. :doh: Had to undo everything to flip the gasket.


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Got that sorted, so the Dream Automotive high flow catted DP is back on and the clutch arm re-secured.:)


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Received a suggestion today to reverse this wastegate linkage retaining pin, as there is a possibility of it falling out under high stress conditions. Here is how I had it.


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Went back through old photos and here is the pin, as found, from the factory. The recommendation I received was to position the loop at the top to eliminate any chance of it coming loose and falling out. The horizontal cross end probably will prevent that and was not visible, but can never be too careful. :thumbsup:

Still need to re-install various Knick-knacks, perform a boost leak check, swap to OEM ECU the refill radiator, swap ECU's to enter brake maintenance mod and change the pads and bleed the brakes, then clean the engine bay... so still have a bit left to do, before getting back on the road. :rolleyes:

I guess the silver lining is my "high mileage" type R may eventually become a "low mileage" car the longer it sits. :crazy:
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Picked up this Motivx oil funnel several months back…but hadn’t tried it yet. The clear lower chamber is interchangeable with other Motivx adapters for use with other cars. The one needed for the Civic is an MX2303.


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With the oil pan installed and oil cooler lines back on, it was time to refill the system.

The Motivx threads directly into the engine oil fill port and is supplied with a rubber gasket to prevent leaks. It’s made of plastic, so just hand tight is good to avoid cracking.


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Check out how easy it is to add oil. :headbang:

No longer need to hold the funnel steady with one hand, plus it has a large opening to pour into.

Game changer! No more inadvertent spills. Very impressed with this handy dandy funnel from Motivx. :bow:
 
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Nitroturtle

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I have that same funnel and love it. Keep up the good work!
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Finally got around to swapping out the original Eventuri CF inlet tube (subject to recall due to failures on high HP builds). Slow going and my wife is threatening to have the car towed if I don’t finish modding It soon. Sheesh… the car has been apart for only (2) months… :rolleyes:

Side by side comparison of the Eventuri CF turbo inlet tubes (original on top). Doesn’t look all too different.

This bracket that secured the tube to the engine has been deleted.


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Another angle. The remaining bracket appears thinner on the updated tube.


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Eventuri CF inlet tube V2.0 installed. :)

Performed a boost leak check using the OEM aluminum inlet tube prior and addressed a couple small leaks that cropped up during this round of mods.


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A052s after (2) track days. Was debating new tires, but these don’t look too bad after all. Posted a pic to the FB CTR track group and they say the tires are good for one more track session…. So these will be going back on after the brake pads are replaced.
 
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ManitobaSI

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Love the build and the progress… quick question. If you could do it again, would you still pick the radium coolant overflow or would you go with mishimoto and their one piece design? I’m struggling to pick because I like the looks of radium but don’t want to deal with any leaks.
 

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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Thank you for the kind words ManitobaSI, much appreciated. :)

Initially leaned towards Mishimoto as their design is striking… But opted for Radium as wanted to match their dual PCV/CCV oil catch can system and preferred a level indicator tube for more visual range.

Radium build quality is excellent and they’ve been terrific answering questions and backing their product. I developed an odd air leak on their PCV catch can and was promptly sent a pressure tested replacement.

The small coolant leak at the filling neck has not returned after replacing the o-ring. The joint is located at the top, so it sees coolant when fluid was hot and expanded. O-ring replacement doesn’t require draining when the car is cold.

Did not like having to purchase their radiator cap separately, adding to the cost… which I think is lame :mad:

Don’t think you can go wrong with either expansion tank. . The plastic OEM expansion will eventually become brittle, so I prefer something more durable.

The Mishimoto is beautiful and I’m sure they stand by their product as well.

As for an opportunity for a redo? If budget isn’t a concern, yes I would go Radium again… but both are worthwhile upgrade options if your car is a long term keeper. :)


Love the build and the progress… quick question. If you could do it again, would you still pick the radium coolant overflow or would you go with mishimoto and their one piece design? I’m struggling to pick because I like the looks of radium but don’t want to deal with any leaks.
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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5A2302DF-D6F8-499D-8968-AAF4EBD3C8A9.jpeg
Found some time to install this J’s Racing emblem holder to the J’s grill. Had given up trying to put Type R lettering back on, then this became available.

The kit comes with (2) plastic pieces that sandwich the grill, (3) useless screws + an Allen wrench and peel and stick OEM letters.


DCC43C04-D6F4-4A75-B5B5-F82A2F87F972.jpeg

The back of the emblem holder has these brass reinforcements… but they will pull out if the screws are tightened too hard.


19E9625B-2692-48F5-BC16-299EA0CF56D8.jpeg

Unfortunately, the screws provided in the kit are too short for the job.


62076100-2FB5-4E57-9A62-16BE51D8F871.jpeg

There just isn’t enough length to sandwich the (2) halves between the mesh… So lame :doh:

Relayed this info to [email protected]’s Racing USA for correction on future kits :)


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Luckily, Home Depot has 0.5 x 12mm replacements and some lock and flat washers.


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Much better. The plastic pieces could be properly attached with the proper length screws. Tightened by hand so the brass inserts wouldn’t pull out.


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J’s Racing Grill with J’s emblem attached. Bumper ready to reinstall. :)
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Still plugging along at a snails pace, but made decent progress Sunday. Got the bumper, under plastics, intake and engine cooling plates back on, as well as the ECU and battery reconnected.

Experienced a little anxiety turning the car back on for the first time after (2) months of on again, off again (mostly) mods. Always the possibility of forgetting something like a bonehead. But the car fired right up, no leaks, no stress and no worries. :thumbsup:

All that's left is to change brake pads, bleed fluid, reinstall wheels, wash the car and I'll be back on the road. Aiming to post up a more coherent write up regarding brake pads, than my first attempt, so please stay tuned ;)
 
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fatherpain

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644A4377-4D2F-4EC1-B4F3-90622C0ECD0D.jpeg

Reached out to J’s Racing USA to check on an order placed way back in April… and part of it finally arrived! :p


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J’s Racing CF front wing spoilers arrived in Yasu’s latest shipment. 😋


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Unfortunately, the side wing, canards and front vent garnish that complete the J’s Racing aero were still no-shows… probably stuck at the port in Long Beach. :rolleyes:


0E5808C4-5C87-4B88-8D3E-7F41A5D88462.jpeg

Was disappointed to find several blemishes in various spots of the carbon fiber lip. :doh:


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Here is a closeup of the kind of cosmetic defects I’m referring to. :oops:


A70F1362-061A-4A33-A03F-D4736442FB39.jpeg

For a high dollar aero kit, was expecting the quality to be better. Yasu was just as surprised and let me know I didn’t have to accept it.


BE9676B1-7E94-4968-9914-FBF93C8C1942.jpeg

The leading edge of the lip is similarly wonky.


A073308E-FBBB-4B26-A2B8-61CD0B492D0A.png
To refresh, here is what the J’s Racing aero kit looks like.

So now the decision is whether:
  • To go with it, (hopefully at a discount) and gamble it won’t be noticeable under fresh clear coat and PPF. It is a splitter after all and bound to be abused anyway. :dunno:
  • Politely decline and hope for a better example for a future shipment… however 3 of the 4 we looked at were similar or worse... Maybe this is how it’s going to be if want to rock a J’s Racing lip and splitter. :drool:
  • Ditch the idea completely. Save money and the headache (err fun) of installing, 😂 Decisions, decisions. :hmm:
 
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V3N0M_VZL4

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B98B2242-77EB-4B96-9E98-A4D414BD7D9F.png

Pressed the baffled oil pan against the engine and started the (17) bolts. Couldn’t find a specific torque pattern for the FK8 so went with something similar to this. Found it helpful to write the number pattern on the pan with a sharpie.


29DB024C-AA53-412F-A057-FEFA6A86A789.jpeg

Lightly hand tightened each bolt in the cross pattern I copied.


125E8D91-C018-4E43-81C7-4724C02593AE.jpeg

Repeated the process with a torque wrench set to 4.2 ft-lbs on the first pass… then (3) more times at the final setting of 8.7 ft-lbs….and a final go around clockwise. Was able to get to do (16) bolts using a 10mm socket and extension. Having the front pipe loose made things easier.


7EF88660-5D2A-4123-BAA1-65E249CD5A98.jpeg

This last bolt required the use of a universal socket.


0FBDE497-E0F1-4803-94D1-02E50513B68C.jpeg

Unit2 Fabrication baffled oil pan installed to the engine and properly torqued! :headbang:

The remainder of the install was just the reverse of what’s already been posted so won’t cover that..

Feeling pretty stoked to have these mods finally on the car... Now can focus on putting everything back together…which should be a piece of cake. :rolleyes:


EDA1F3BE-2137-4455-AA43-859B246E28F4.jpeg
The only give away this oil pan is different than any other is this Unit2 tag.. and a custom port added for a temperature sensor.;)
Nice progress dude, I was checking the pictures and I can see in the last one a big crack is that real? Or maybe is a effect in the picture?
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Thank you V3N0M…. I’ll be darned… didn’t notice it. The car is still on the lift for the brakes, so it will be easy to pull off the skid plate and check. :bow:


Nice progress dude, I was checking the pictures and I can see in the last one a big crack is that real? Or maybe is a effect in the picture?
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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80E4E7FD-4396-45A7-8121-BC6B8A88C8F0.png

Finally found some time to take a gander at what appeared to be a crack in the oil pan @V3N0M_VZL4 observantly pointed out. Was fearing the worst, despite no oil leaks detected when the car test ran and idled for 15 minutes a couple weeks back. The initial peek didn't look good: maybe a complete redo to remove the pan for weld repair. Oh gawd 😓


DE13851B-A67C-4A5B-89DE-B8204A37513D.png
Separated the front pipe from the downpipe and pried it down a little to get a closer look. Seems I'm in luck and it is just a surface scratch or blemish in the soft aluminum. :cool: Whew! Would have been tough explaining to Mrs. Fatherpain exactly why I had to tear down the car again. She already thinks I don't know what I'm doing and am stuck. :rolleyes:
 
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