Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

[Lust]

View attachment 274265 @Lust - your Jedi mind trick worked flawlessly btw...The Force is strong with you...my master.

Wasn’t clear where the hard lagged water pipe is physically located, so called Dream Automotive on the good ole telly.

Their customer service is top notch. Really nice and helpful chaps, I must say....during the call, we looked at Honda Parts Now and the rep pointed me to the water pump diagram and there it is. Cheerio

This is the part specifically. Looks like the cost is entirely the insulation.

Here are the O-rings that go with it. Ordered (2) j

And X marks the spot! Looks as though a bunch of stuff needs to come off in order to reach this water pipe


View attachment 274263 View attachment 274307
Looks like the turbo may have to be removed in order to install this heat shield. I inquired whether there would be any adverse affects on the turbo and Dream said no as it is water cooled. They have it on their time attack car, which has won several events and it’s still going strong.

Will need to research if there are any gaskets, etc that need to be replaced when pulling the turbo. If anyone knows, please feel free to help me out

Hopefully these (2) items will combine with the Dream turbo oil return clamshell that was put on awhile back, to mitigate the addtioslaheat, generated by my recent tune.

View attachment 274236

Nice! Probably should have asked them if they’d do a group discount

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[fatherpain]

Shoot, sorry didn’t think about that, brother ...

The Dream Automotive rep said they installed hard lagging on an additional piece for someone having issues with a big power build. Unfortunately the job was a custom one-off and he didn’t recall which pipe it was.

He does know it is not listed on their website. Said he’d look into it an send an email once he locates it. Curious what it could be.

Nice! Probably should have asked them if they’d do a group discount

 

[turbociv910]

that hard lagging stuff looks awesome!

 

[fatherpain]

Thanks Taylor. Here are the other Dream Automotive offerings from previous posts to shed a little light on what to expect.

High flow catted downpipe with hard lagging (similar to water pipe) and the turbo oil return clamshell heat shield (Turbo heat shield). The bronze wrap is advertised for the clutch line, but I can’t figure out where it goes.

The hard lagging (DP right) is applied by a company outsourced by Dream. I’d imagine if someone were interested, they could send any part to Dream and request it to be similarly wrapped, but it would be expensive.

It’s rated to 1200F and they claim it decreases temps from 1000F down to 200F. I believe this as can touch the lagging without burning my fingers after driving.

The hard lagging is actually fairly soft. I had to mash it a little to get one of the downpipe studs to fit. But this shows about how thick the insulation is.

And where the turbo oil return clamshell installs to.

that hard lagging stuff looks awesome!

 

[turbociv910]

I didn't know it was insulation, only thought it was a heat shield. It doesn't look easy to make either, that took some skill if its done by hand

 

[fatherpain]

I suspect this post will mainly be applicable to Motec owners. But might be helpful to others. After reconnecting the battery and turning the car on, was greeted by this super annoying message requesting a code for the anti-theft car play system. Of course I have no idea what the code possibly could be... So the head unit locked out.

Under normal circumstances, this is the message encountered after disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. It clears by simply holding the power button for (2) seconds as indicated on the screen.

But the code request persisted. Asked my Honda tech nephew and he suggested performing a master reset.

This is performed by:

• disconnecting the cables from the battery terminals negative first, positive last.
• Covering the battery terminals with something non conductive like a piece of cloth, rubber or cardboard to prevent the wires from coming back in contact.
• Connecting the positive and negative cables with a pair of alligator clips.
• Leave like this for about (15) minutes to allow the system to completely discharge and power down.
• Remove the clips and reconnect the battery positive first, negative last.
• Master reset complete. Start the car.

Whelp, after doing so, was still greeted by the code request lockout

Discouraged, called the dealer and they said to bring it and they’d take a look. No charge if something simple, but if the issue were complicated by mods there may be a significant charge starting at $150 just to diagnose. Well considering where my OCD tendencies have taken me and also being out of warranty, I said F that Besides I don’t need service techs joyriding my car

Fortunately there is more than one way to skin a cat. Decided to try something different. Performed another master reset..

Swapped the electrical harnesses from the Motec to the good old trusty OEM ECU

Returned the battery to normal, crossed my fingers and fired it up. Bingo, Bango, Bongo!!

As Austin Powers might say: “YEAH BABY YEAH!!! Problem solved.

Turned the car off and switched back to Motec. Turned the car back on and confirmed all was good.

Pretty certain this anomaly is due to the Motec. Would be nice to get the code from the dealer so don’t have to go through this if the Issue crops up again... or maybe there’s a setting that can be turned off in the Motec logic.

 

[ApexEight]

@fatherpain I think that clutch line sleeve actually goes over one of those lines above the turbo inlet pipe. I remember seeing it somewhere.

 

[fatherpain]

With an upcoming outing @Big Willow approaching, took the car to a shop specializing in track alignments at the urging of one of my buddies.

West End Alignment in Gardena.

Though the car is on stock suspension, it can be dialed further for track use by removing the front damper guide pins to allow for a small amount of negative camber adjustment..

Be aware, pulling the pin is non reversible. Once it’s out, it’s out.

West End demonstrated an easy and ingenious method for pin removal: Use a spacer (or stacked washers) to serve a strong back.

Thread a 14mm nut onto the pin...

Then use a ratchet to tighten the nut. As it’s turning, it will press against the spacer and jack the pin out.

Just like this. Here is the pin removed.

West end then proceeded to align the car.

Front camber was adjusted to negative 1.8 degrees.

Rear was negative 2.2 and 2.0 respectively.

Will be able to get more camber, please when finally get around to installing the JRZ coilovers and RV6 suspension stuff.

looking forward to see the effect of negative camber at the track. Also my steering wheel is now perfectly straight again... Had gone off at Streets of Willow at about 15mph at my last event (4) months ago, so I was overdue.

 

[Kotaas]

Ever since I met you at a cruise I swear I can hear your voice every time I’m reading your write ups haha. Thanks for the details don’t have a type r but I always enjoy seeing what route you’re going with your ride

 

[fatherpain]

Heh, thank you brother was fun meeting up and driving Angeles Crest with you guys. Look forward to doing it again one of these days. If the missus didn’t complain about the amount of time I spend tinkering on the car, I’d probably try to get out there a couple times a month.

Though our cars have differences, there are enough similarities that hopefully a lot of this content still applies. Honda really nailed it on the 10th generation. Love em all

Ever since I met you at a cruise I swear I can hear your voice every time I’m reading your write ups haha. Thanks for the details don’t have a type r but I always enjoy seeing what route you’re going with your ride

 

[AlphaDigital]

What was your front camber prior to pulling the pins, sorry if i missed it. Ill probably do this mod as well.

 

[fatherpain]

Hey there Alpha,

Apologies I don’t know what the as found settings were. Asked West End and they said they didn’t bother checking. They just set it where it needed to be.

FWIW, I was on the OEM stock alignment. The car had been previously re-aligned twice, both times at Honda.

Will be going to West End Alignment from now on. Cost was $150.

It will likely be abit more to align coilovers and corner balancing, when the time comes.

What was your front camber prior to pulling the pins, sorry if i missed it. Ill probably do this mod as well.

 

[samji]

Any particular reason for going more camber in the rear?

I ask because I recently got my car aligned twice because I realized the car pushes a lot with that much camber in the rear. My initial setting was -1.4 Front and -2.2 rear. Had to dial back the camber in my rears to -1.5 and up the fronts to -1.7. I feel as though -2 would be perfect but I don't think my car is low enough to run that much on just springs.

 

[fatherpain]

Hi samji,
I’m a n00b to suspension tweaking, all I can offer is I’ve tracked on the stock suspension and alignment the (7) times I’ve gone... and have noticed excessive tire wear towards the outer edges. I just told West End what I wanted the alignment for and they dialed in the settings.

Sunday 2/21/21 will be the first with a track alignment and some negative camber, so am interested if I’ll notice the difference.

A great person to ask about rear camber would be @Lust. One of these days I’ll summon the courage to follow his lead and install the RV6 components that are waiting to go on along with a set of JRZ RS Pro coilovers, which will allow for greater adjustability in the rear and front.

Any particular reason for going more camber in the rear?

I ask because I recently got my car aligned twice because I realized the car pushes a lot with that much camber in the rear. My initial setting was -1.4 Front and -2.2 rear. Had to dial back the camber in my rears to -1.5 and up the fronts to -1.7. I feel as though -2 would be perfect but I don't think my car is low enough to run that much on just springs.

 

[fatherpain]

Hmmm... checked the cabin air filter on a whim and here is the condition after just 6k miles since the last change.

Gonna have to check it at shorter intervals it seems.