Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

[fatherpain]

Heh, that would be an honor Kefi if this somehow got stickied to a higher traffic area of CivicX, like the general forum, so new comers could see. I’d wager 50% or more of our members are unaware the build section exists.

My buddy @boosted180sx has been a big influence with knowledge drops that have helped this build. @turbociv910 has been critical helping me upgrade to Motec and I’m watching his thread in case I ever decide to go further than FBO. Just sharing what I’m learning along the way to hopefully help our CTR community.

Just need to find some way to catch the attention of an admin

this thread damn near needs to be stickied for knowledge tell ya hwat

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[fatherpain]

Here is how the J’s Racing front center badge holder with a STEK carbon fiber PPF backing turned out.

It’s a subtle difference, but am pleased with the outcome.

The STEK background provides a little bit of contrast for the black chrome H emblem, as opposed to solid black.

California Legacy mounted to the Raceseng license plate adapter, in place of the tow hook.

One of the guys at work commented: “Kinda OCD, Tom? How about very OCD?”

 

[fatherpain]

Since getting tuned, it seems like the car has some pops and burbles in 2nd gear under WOT....Then again, it could just be extra wheel hop due to the power increase, . A review of the datalog would tell for sure, but I’m a simp and not up to doing that hi tech stuff yet.

Either way, at 40k miles with (7) track days, figured it couldn’t hurt to change spark plugs. Salasko Racing suggested closing the gap to 0.018”
Tools needed to change spark plugs:

• 10mm socket and ratchet
• 14mm thin wall deep spark plug socket
• Long socket extension
• Feeler aka thickness gauge
• Gapping tool of your choice
• (4) Spark plugs. ILZKAR8H8S) (NGK)

I run without the OEM engine coil cover, otherwise it would be simple matter of removing (5) 10mm bolts.

I like to disconnect battery (negative first, positive last). This may not really be necessary, but I do it for safety, just in case.

First, remove this 10mm bolt securing the harness.

Unplug all (4) ignition coils.

Press this tab to free the harness.

Push harness back to free up space.

Loosen the 10mm bolts securing ignition coil

Then lift out each coil.

All (4) ignition coils removed. Kept them in the same orientation as found.

Picked up this nifty 14mm spark plug socket from Amazon.

It has prongs inside that grab and hold spark plugs, making removal and installation a breeze. A magnetic socket would work equally well.

Loosen each spark plug. Hold the extension with other hand while doing so.

Then lift each plug out.

Condition of the plugs @40k miles + (7) track days.

Closeup and typical physical condition for each plug that was pulled.

 

[fatherpain]

There are several methods to gap the plugs. Picked up this gapping tool and thickness/feeler gauge from Amazon. The tool was $60. Found out later there are regular old school type tools for $5 that do the same thing probably just as well.

Anyhoo, to use this gapping tool, insert spark plug, place the desired thickness in the gap and tighten until the leaf stops moving freely. Takes both hands doing so, and recommend tightening in tiny increments, when getting close, so not to over do it.

Salasko Racing suggested setting a gap of 0.018 - 0.022”.

Went with 0.018” and noticed the gap would spring back, so found the sweet spot to be 0.006” extra. Tightened to 0.012”.

With pressure released the gap sprung back to the perfect 0.018” I was looking for. There was a slight drag on the leaf when verifying, which is good. Repeated this for the remaining plugs.

Noticed some grime and gunk on the cover, so cleaned using Q-tips which fit the crevasses nicely.

Insert the new plugs into the spark plug socket and extension...

The spark plug threads are fine, so suggest screwing back in by hand. No anti-seize required.

Then torque to 16 ft-lbs or 192 inch-lbs until it clicks.

Reinstall the ignition coils and tighten the retaining bolts.

Reconnect the plugs, snap the harness back in place, secure the screw and reconnect the battery (Postive first, negative last).

Spark plug change complete. Ready for the next 40k+ miles and more track days.

 

[Lust]

There are several methods to gap the plugs. Picked up this gapping tool and thickness/feeler gauge from Amazon. The tool was $60. Found out later there are regular old school type tools for $5 that do the same thing probably just as well.

Anyhoo, to use this gapping tool, insert spark plug, place the desired thickness in the gap and tighten until the leaf stops moving freely. Takes both hands doing so, and recommend tightening in tiny increments, when getting close, so not to over do it.

Salasko Racing suggested setting a gap of 0.018 - 0.022”.

Went with 0.018” and noticed the gap would spring back, so found the sweet spot to be 0.006” extra. Tightened to 0.012”.

With pressure released the gap sprung back to the perfect 0.018” I was looking for. There was a slight drag on the leaf when verifying, which is good. Repeated this for the remaining plugs.

Noticed some grime and gunk on the cover, so cleaned using Q-tips which fit the crevasses nicely.

Insert the new plugs into the spark plug socket and extension...

The spark plug threads are fine, so suggest screwing back in by hand. No anti-seize required.

Then torque to 16 ft-lbs or 192 inch-lbs until it clicks.

Reinstall the ignition coils and tighten the retaining bolts.

Reconnect the plugs, snap the harness back in place, secure the screw and reconnect the battery.

Spark plug change complete. Ready for the next 40k+ miles and more track days.

You should get the Dream Automotive Inconel turbo shield and hard lagged water pipe to match all of the other hard lagged stuff you have. I'm thinking about getting them myself too!

 

[fatherpain]

Whoa Michael... had no clue that stuff was available. Link please brother

Dream Automotive’s hard lagging for their downpipe is impressive. They claim it cuts 1000F down to 200F

You should get the Dream Automotive Inconel turbo shield and hard lagged water pipe to match all of the other hard lagged stuff you have. I'm thinking about getting them myself too!

 

[Lust]

Whoa Michael... had no clue that stuff was available. Link please brother

Dream Automotive’s hard lagging for their downpipe is impressive. They claim it cuts 1000F down to 200F

https://www.dream-automotive.com/co...-shield-honda-civic-type-r-fk2-fk8-2-0t-k20c1

https://www.dream-automotive.com/co...ter-pipe-honda-civic-type-r-fk2-fk8-2-0t-k20c

 

[ApexEight]

https://www.dream-automotive.com/co...-shield-honda-civic-type-r-fk2-fk8-2-0t-k20c1

https://www.dream-automotive.com/co...ter-pipe-honda-civic-type-r-fk2-fk8-2-0t-k20c

Those are so sweet. I know Ken Suen highly recommends heat shielding the water pipe. He also hates turbo blankets and is all about inconel lol.

 

[fatherpain]

Price as listed on Dream’s website.

Ouch Michael that’s some decent coin to drop... I’m still working to pay off the Motec kit and my 0% PayPal Credit interest rate expires April 4th the good news is the real price is $150 less than the listed price once it’s in the cart moving forward.. Enough to add a magnetic drain plug and still be ahead, heh.

February 21 will be the first outing on the track with a tune. Big Willow and SoCal temps are still cool, so don’t anticipate any problems. However every little bit helps...

Must resissssstttttttt... but have a good idea which side of my brain will win out..

https://www.dream-automotive.com/co...-shield-honda-civic-type-r-fk2-fk8-2-0t-k20c1

https://www.dream-automotive.com/co...ter-pipe-honda-civic-type-r-fk2-fk8-2-0t-k20c

 

[fatherpain]

Visited Winding Road Racing in Costa Mesa the other day and picked up a Bell K1 Pro helmet in preparation for a 2/21 track day at Big Willow.

Really wish I shopped for a helmet there from the get go. Live and learn....

Last year picked up an entry level HJC helmet from Evasive when I needed something quick... However it fit fairly tight, squishing my cheeks and forehead...even though it was an XL. The sales dude said it was supposed to fit like that.

While bearable, the HJC wasn’t particularly comfortable....at least for my noggin.

Did the job for (7) track days, but i wanted something more comfortable.

The Bell K1 Pro was just a little bit more. $499 compared to the HJC $349. For my head shape, the Bell is much more comfortable... night and day. Looking forward to driving with it.

Side by side comparison. Weight is about the same. The Bell seems to breathe better also.

Will either sell the HJC or keep as a loaner for passengers wanting to check out the track, but don’t have a helmet.

 

[fatherpain]

An electrical mechanic buddy stopped by while I was changing spark plugs during break. He noticed the exposed wiring going to the Motec ECU and suggested wrapping the wires to protect against engine bay heat and avoid cooked wiring insulation.

Electrical tape leaves a nasty residue. However he showed me a cool trick to avoid this:

Wrap the first layer of tape with the sticky side facing out. Then twist it on itself and tape over the entire thing.

No sticky nonsense if ever need to remove the tape!

Did the same for the other end.

Exposed wiring all taped up.

Electrical tape alone isn’t enough, so my buddy suggested additional insulation cut to size.

Much, much better

 

[Lust]

How are your IATs at the maf with the Eventuri intake? I’m considering swapping my PRL HVI for it

 

[fatherpain]

Unfortunately, I don’t know how to read datalogs yet and haven’t had time to familiarize myself with the Motec software... It’s a lot of information to digest and a bit overwhelming for a n00b like me.

That said, Salasko Racing will check my data after my upcoming track day to see how the tune is performing. I’ll ask about the IATs and report back.

The car is tuned on speed density now. Am still getting some burbles under WOT despite gapping the plugs to 0.018”.

How are your IATs at the maf with the Eventuri intake? I’m considering swapping my PRL HVI for it

 

[Dave B]

Neat trick with the electrical tape.

 

[fatherpain]

@Lust - your Jedi mind trick worked flawlessly btw...The Force is strong with you...my master.

Wasn’t clear where the hard lagged water pipe is physically located, so called Dream Automotive on the good ole telly.

Their customer service is top notch. Really nice and helpful chaps, I must say....during the call, we looked at Honda Parts Now and the rep pointed me to the water pump diagram and there it is. Cheerio

This is the part specifically. Looks like the cost is entirely the insulation.

Here are the O-rings that go with it. Ordered (2) from Honda Parts Now.

And X marks the spot! Looks as though a bunch of stuff needs to come off in order to reach this water pipe

And the turbo may have to be removed to install this heat shield. I inquired whether there would be any adverse affects on the turbo and he said no, because it is cooled by water. Dream’s time attack FK8, which has won several events has it and is still going strong.

Will need to research if there are gaskets, etc that need to be replaced when pulling the turbo. If anyone knows, please feel free to help me out

Hopefully these (2) items will combine with the Dream turbo oil return clamshell that was put on awhile back, to mitigate the additional heat generated by my recent tune.