Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

OP
fatherpain

fatherpain

Senior Member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Dec 22, 2018
Messages
1,512
Reaction score
1,935
Location
SoCal
Website
www.civicx.com
Car(s)
2018 CTR - CW, 1996 Honda Accord EX coupe
Build Thread
Link
Country flag
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #631
A6E7F35D-B9A7-4108-95DA-9CFD61834A17.jpeg

Whelp this has probably been the longest I’ve gone without updating this thread since it’s inception.

Been a hectic November to say the least. Election drama, work’s been busy, turned (51), the holidays are upon us and oh btw, my youngest son bashed his toe pretty good on our trampoline. :doh:


D526A55A-FC7E-4B12-B5A7-F333087AD373.jpeg

Yep, that doesn’t look good. Partially dislocated and broken at the tip. Ouch 😢


BA3A792D-C54D-45AD-85D3-7D629D8BAE26.jpeg

Fortunately we were able to get him in for surgery pretty quick to get his toe “modded”. 😆


87FD5D93-2417-4197-B9E1-AF93C79AFD6F.jpeg

Yeah that looks so much better. Doctor inserted a pin to stabilize It. Asked for it to be titanium, no dice. (jk).


6030049D-EA2B-4CCD-B1C3-092E708FF053.jpeg
Hobbling out after being sedated for the procedure. Good news is our “baby waby” is on the mend and should have that pin removed in a few weeks. :)


73210624-6DA3-4CEE-89D8-B3588B8D3C4E.jpeg

Ended up withdrawing from the Chuckwalla 11/21/20 track day and by all accounts, missed out on a really fun time.

Relieved to not being up against a deadline. With no more track sessions scheduled, can get back to maintaining and modding the car. Still have a few items to knock out before wanting to get back out there:
  • Reinstall the Motec ECU and resolve the engine tick.
  • Possibly add flex fuel capability.
  • Finally get the car tuned.
  • Install JRZ coilovers and RV6 suspension gear. Purchased a nitrogen bottle, pressure regulator and the JRZ filling gauge. Still need a hose to connect the regulator to the Schraeder valve on the gauge. What a pain. 🙄
  • Add a remote drain valve for the Radium CCV catch can and re-route the PCV remote drain.
  • Get the annual service for the ceramic coat.
  • Replace any damaged underbody plastics.
  • Remove bent rims and install new ones. Thinking to save the bent ones for track days and the new set for street use.
  • Change transmission fluid.
  • Change brake pads if needed.

E678BFD2-E551-491E-B1A6-6DDB84574601.png

Received an unexpected, but welcome message from Jacek Wisniewski (Carbon Zone Poland) checking if I was interested in one of his steering wheel offerings.

Asked for one like this. 50/50 CF and Alcantara. ETA hopefully within the next few weeks :)





Advertisement

 
Last edited:

kimtyson

Senior Member
First Name
Kim
Joined
Jul 30, 2018
Messages
656
Reaction score
596
Location
York, Pa
Car(s)
2020 Blue Civic Si Coupe
Vehicle Showcase
1
Country flag
Glad your son got through his ordeal relatively well. Kids play hard.
Love the wheel. Link or cost? I bet it ain't cheap.
 
OP
fatherpain

fatherpain

Senior Member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Dec 22, 2018
Messages
1,512
Reaction score
1,935
Location
SoCal
Website
www.civicx.com
Car(s)
2018 CTR - CW, 1996 Honda Accord EX coupe
Build Thread
Link
Country flag
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #633
Thanks kimtyson. He ditched the crutches the first day and is back to running around which is nerve wracking for his mom and me. He needs to survive (2) more weeks without stubbing that toe or getting it wet then the pin gets removed. :rolleyes:

Steering wheel is a little over $1k. The tough part is CZP needs a US core, in hand, to make one for us. Apparently the Euro cores are different.

Jacek has a US core otherwise I’d have had to send one to him. He may have more US cores, not sure.

He also makes a perforated leather/CF wheel similar to other wheels on the market...Though I think his is nicer quality at an elevated price.

Went with the Alcantara as prefer the rounder shape. Gonna have to start washing my hands or wear my track day gloves each time I drive, so dirt and gunk doesn’t transfer over like on my other car. 😂

Here is the link:

https://www.carbonzonepoland.com/product-details/fk8-type-rfc-steering-wheel-carbon-fiberalcantara


Glad your son got through his ordeal relatively well. Kids play hard.
Love the wheel. Link or cost? I bet it ain't cheap.
 
OP
fatherpain

fatherpain

Senior Member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Dec 22, 2018
Messages
1,512
Reaction score
1,935
Location
SoCal
Website
www.civicx.com
Car(s)
2018 CTR - CW, 1996 Honda Accord EX coupe
Build Thread
Link
Country flag
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #634
EACEFF86-4BBD-427D-B22A-E2D0622DA19C.jpeg

Thanks Brian. Really appreciate you taking the time to send a sticker to make the BMSPEC ducktail complete. Applied tonight and was just the extra touch it needed. :bow:


AH. Now I'm finally putting faces to names lol. Glad you like it!
 
OP
fatherpain

fatherpain

Senior Member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Dec 22, 2018
Messages
1,512
Reaction score
1,935
Location
SoCal
Website
www.civicx.com
Car(s)
2018 CTR - CW, 1996 Honda Accord EX coupe
Build Thread
Link
Country flag
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #635
D928ED1B-0D32-4540-8E57-35851D2931C7.jpeg

Wanted to share a simple game changer that has made fluid changes much quicker and less messy:

The sealable plastic bucket :headbang:

How now? Brown cow? Well... previously, I’d drain oil to a catch pan then transfer to empty bottles using a funnel, for disposal... which inevitably resulted in spills, no matter how careful, then I’d have to clean the pan and funnel afterwards. The end result was a lot of mess and wasted time. :confused:


4B46FBC1-E7A1-4203-8211-C903733EA83F.jpeg

If able to raise your car high enough, a sealable bucket can be positioned to catch fluids directly. Besides oil, have caught transmission fluid. Will also work to drain the radiator.


69B3F0E6-0470-4BA9-9854-6C2DC40B1CC7.jpeg

By catching directly, very little chance of a mess.


15579E14-9390-4C43-9866-1F77B43617F2.jpeg

If unable to raise the car high enough, can drain to a catch pan then empty to the bucket, like this.


BB37E2E5-EF03-4D12-AA7E-E73CE6782E87.jpeg

Then screw the lid on. Has a locking mechanism and rubber seal that prevents leakage, allowing for worry free storage or transfer.


0F089AE4-E37A-4FD1-994F-B063F29E7887.jpeg
Then unscrew the lid and dump at your local oil disposal facility :)
 
OP
fatherpain

fatherpain

Senior Member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Dec 22, 2018
Messages
1,512
Reaction score
1,935
Location
SoCal
Website
www.civicx.com
Car(s)
2018 CTR - CW, 1996 Honda Accord EX coupe
Build Thread
Link
Country flag
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #636
DE28E0BE-79DA-4C61-97A6-F106E3470EE0.jpeg

Took the car in for its 2nd annual service to refresh the ceramic coat and it’s akin to getting the car detailed.


DC56E5EA-EC35-4A26-85BD-6625A84D5AC2.jpeg

In addition to the ceramic, the carpet is vacuumed, exhaust tips polished and the engine bay is cleaned.


1F852DC6-7333-44B0-9B73-5E9CD0AB39A6.jpeg

All of which is cool, except the Santa Ana winds whipped up overnight and wildfires have ignited in SoCal filling the air with smoke and ash. Can’t wash the car for at least (1) week and the garage is full of junk at the moment. :drool:
 
Last edited:
OP
fatherpain

fatherpain

Senior Member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Dec 22, 2018
Messages
1,512
Reaction score
1,935
Location
SoCal
Website
www.civicx.com
Car(s)
2018 CTR - CW, 1996 Honda Accord EX coupe
Build Thread
Link
Country flag
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #638
Hello V3N0M_VZL4,

Sure thing. Are you referring to the black chrome front H and rear Civic emblems?

If so, can find them here:

https://www.heeltoeauto.com/emblem-badge-decal/

Quality of the civic emblem is top notch.

Though it looks good, the front H emblem just seems like cheap plastic.

Have the black chrome H for the rear also, but haven’t moved forward yet. One idea is to apply STEK CF wrap for the background, then install the badge on top. Unlike OEM, it’s not solid. Instead, it is a hollow silhouette.

Also, have the OEM Type R grill emblem but haven’t figured out how to secure it properly to the mesh.


Dude can you share the link of those emblems?
 
Last edited:
OP
fatherpain

fatherpain

Senior Member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Dec 22, 2018
Messages
1,512
Reaction score
1,935
Location
SoCal
Website
www.civicx.com
Car(s)
2018 CTR - CW, 1996 Honda Accord EX coupe
Build Thread
Link
Country flag
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #640
0030C3FC-B7AF-404A-885B-16AB96CD5E44.jpeg
Good eye, Dave B. Yes, there was one piece that didn’t get transferred from the old hood to the J’s. Looked difficult to remove without destroying, so left it behind. Was a metal channel piece if memory serves, secured by rivets.


EC289982-AB09-4BE3-9F56-15F36EE809BB.jpeg

Suppose will put transferring this piece on the list of things to do.

That said, have not noticed leakage into the engine bay when the hood rain guard is in place. (So far).

Doesn’t rain often in SoCal, however the car is pressure washed every 1-2 weeks. Will place towels under the hood next time to see if water is an issue.


4D428A48-2B9B-419E-8EF9-8FFEA2C82107.jpeg

There is an opening here, otherwise the hood appears to seal well.


3AB16650-45A2-4C4D-ABC0-09B0BE9BF416.jpeg

Water collects in the hood opening with the rain guard installed, but seems to have an internal path to drain off. Will be interesting to see what the towels indicate next time the car is washed. Will report back with the findings. :)


I notice with your J's hood that you do not have the hood drain piece part # 74180-TGH-A00 but you do have the hood protector 74144-TGH-A01

Has that been a problem with water getting into the back of engine bay?
 
Last edited:
OP
fatherpain

fatherpain

Senior Member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Dec 22, 2018
Messages
1,512
Reaction score
1,935
Location
SoCal
Website
www.civicx.com
Car(s)
2018 CTR - CW, 1996 Honda Accord EX coupe
Build Thread
Link
Country flag
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #641
78188BC0-D8CE-49B1-AEBF-019E326F0B82.jpeg
Here is an updated photo of the output of the Morimoto XB/Coplus headlights combined with Morimoto yellow fog lights.

Pretty sure the fogs are properly aimed, though may tinker and point them up a little more. They definitely helped increase the light output.

Prefer aesthetics of white fogs, but yellow are nice as the output is easily identifiable to show where pointed and what they add.
 
Last edited:

17RGuy

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Messages
100
Reaction score
134
Location
DFW
Car(s)
2017 Type R
Country flag
@fatherpain great thread! Have a question. Do you happen to have an idea how much extra oil was added to the system once the HKS/C&R oil cooler is installed? I may measure before I install mine by filling the lines and cooler itself.
Thanks!
 
OP
fatherpain

fatherpain

Senior Member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Dec 22, 2018
Messages
1,512
Reaction score
1,935
Location
SoCal
Website
www.civicx.com
Car(s)
2018 CTR - CW, 1996 Honda Accord EX coupe
Build Thread
Link
Country flag
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #643
Hey there 17RGuy,

It seems to be about (1) quart above the 5.7 that it normally takes.

That said, I don’t believe you can add all of the oil in one shot, otherwise will risk a high oil level warning.

Pretty sure I added 5.7 quarts first. Ran the engine to let the oil circulate, settle, then shut down.

Re-checked and topped off the oil, until obtaining the proper level on the dipstick

Pre-filling the core probably would work well. Repeating for the oil lines may be tricky however and lead to a spill.

After the initial fill, on oil changes I just drain and add 5.7 quarts then verify the level. Not concerned about the residual oil trapped in the oil cooler and lines.


@fatherpain great thread! Have a question. Do you happen to have an idea how much extra oil was added to the system once the HKS/C&R oil cooler is installed? I may measure before I install mine by filling the lines and cooler itself.
Thanks!
 
Last edited:

17RGuy

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Messages
100
Reaction score
134
Location
DFW
Car(s)
2017 Type R
Country flag
@fatherpain thank you! Pre-filling the lines probably would be messy, the core itself might be good to do though.
Appreciate the response!
 

TypeR604

I choose to live by choice not by chance.
First Name
JM
Joined
Dec 15, 2019
Messages
19
Reaction score
1
Location
Vancouver, BC
Car(s)
Fk8 Type R
Country flag
Changed transmission fluid to Amsoil Synchromesh @18,000 miles.

Tools needed
6mm crush washer
20mm crush washer for drain and fill plug
part#94109-2000

2.3 quarts transmission fluid of your choice
Ratchet with 3/8 extensions, long and short
Flat and Phillips Screwdriver
Funnel
10mm combo wrench
Drain catch pan
Rags
Cardboard
A means of safely raising the car

With the car raised, and oil undertray removed, started the ignition and got the engine to normal operating temperature then shut it off.

MtnBikeAZ1 posted a nice tutorial here: https://www.civicx.com/threads/diy-...e-and-are-they-different-by-model-year.36209/

Accessing the fill plug requires removal of the airbox and ECU (if have an Eventuri) so will need to also disconnect the battery terminals.

248E2621-C6D5-41A6-AB7D-0F98DB27986A.png

Fill plug removal. Photo credit: MtnBikeAZ1


F016F7B7-DE2D-4CBB-8F5C-424B5EF8E79D.jpeg

Drain plug location


FCB532F5-713F-4F6B-AD8E-6389296FD845.png

Drain plug removal. A 3/8 extension fits both drain and fill plugs perfectly. Photo credit: MtnBikeAZ1


5D1C4651-BE40-42CE-9704-399F5B778CCC.png

Here is what the old transmission fluid looked like after 18k miles. Pretty dirty. Reinstall the drain plug with a new 20mm crush washer and add 2.2 to 2.3 quarts of new transmission fluid of your choice. CTR compatible.


6A76A46A-64A0-43CD-94F1-9E87EE6D5D7B.jpeg

I would add to his instructions (because someone pointed it out to me) is the need to open the side check bolt and top off the fluid until it seeps back out... then you will be sure to have the 2.3 quarts the Type R is calling for. The side check bolt is a 10mm.


D0B9B26C-CB69-401A-AE7E-3189DC7A28A3.jpeg

The squirt tube is a perfect fit for the side check opening to top off until it seeps back out. It also has a smaller tip extension and I switched to that towards the end. There are similar ones for sale on Amazon.


2778A3B2-2E09-4F28-AFED-3376ED001B3A.jpeg

Topped off the transmission fluid until it started to drain back out..then reinstalled the check plug. Though a new 6mm crush washer is preferred, I re-used the old one, as it’s on the side and not as critical as the drain plug. I’ve since re-checked and no leaks.


89FB838D-BCB5-4BFF-9309-2CF090DCB0F5.png

This is the amount that went in. I’d estimate about 0.1 L. Was expecting to use the entire 0.3L but that was it. I might try topping it off again in a few days to make sure.

The plastic tip extension is pictured.
Is there a step by step how to remove the air box to access the fill plug?
 

Advertisement






Advertisement
Top