Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

[fatherpain]

My wife sprung a surprise family camping trip along with some friends in nearby Laguna Beach... so the HKS BOV install was briefly put on hold.

Tide pools are pretty fantastic there. My son and his buddy found a huge lobster.
I had to work each day, but made it time for low tide.

We found several of these cool wiggly starfish dudes.

Our holy grail when visiting tide pools has always been finding an octopus... but we’ve never located one. .

Instead, found one of these super rare, beautiful venomous nudibranch‘s.

Got home Sunday and picked up where I left off... Configuring hose connections for the HKS BOV.

The top connector of “C” gets disconnected and segment “D” is removed entirely.

I have a Radium CCV oil catch can and found it necessary to undo the hoses to get space to work.

The hose ends are stubborn to come off, so used some Kroil.

A flat head screwdriver worked well to dislodge “C

Then pulled “C” to the side.

Removing “D” was a little trickier. The screwdriver wasn’t effective so used a needle nose. Grabbed the end, got some kroil inside then twisted off.

Channel locks worked great to pull “D” off by using as a fulcrum on the silver bolt head.

“D” hose entirely removed. It will be replaced by a new piece of hose included with the kit.

(3) 6mm rubber caps and (1) 4mm rubber cap are included with the kit. (One not pictured.)

A 6mm cap goes on the upper connection of “D” and a 4mm goes on “C”

This 4mm to 6mm adapter will be installed to the loose hose end of “C”.

Like this. For all hose connections be sure a clamp secures it.

Advertisement

 

[fatherpain]

Here is a clear view of “D” where the supplied 6mm hose connects to.​

​

​

The hose slides right on, but needs to be trimmed to the correct length.​

​

This will be repeated for several connections, until the job is complete.​

​

​

The heated blade technique makes this easy work ​

​

​

Not knowing the optimal length, I cut here to start.​

​

​

Like this.​

​

​

Inserted the tee fitting. Didn’t like the fitment, so pulled the hose back off from “D” to trim some more.​

​

​

1-3/4” was a good length.​

​

​

Attached the length of hose to the adapter on “C”, then cut it also.​

​

​

1-3/4” was the correct length for “C” as well.​

​

​

Connected the tee fitting to “D” and “C”. Attached the remaining hose and routed towards “E” at the rear of the engine.​

 

[fatherpain]

OEM hoseclamp left. HKS hoseclamp right. Noticed the HKS was slightly larger in diameter and didn’t cinch down to my satisfaction. Stayed with OEM hoseclamps on all connections except for the “F” solenoid.

With the front tee installed, moved to the rear connections. Can see the excess hose running along the side of the engine cover that will tie into connection “E”.

Opened the hood to the maximum, to get room to work.

These are the (2) connectors that will be repurposed.

The “E” hose will be eliminated. One end will be capped and the hose running from the “CD” tee will connect to the solenoid in its place.

The “F” hose will be rotated 180 degrees towards the BOV and other end capped.

Disconnected the “F” hose here.

Removed the hose from the solenoid. Used kroil, wiggled the hose and was very careful not to break anything.

“F” hose removed.

Using a small flat screwdriver, removed the “E” hose here and at the solenoid.

Placed 6mm caps here on “E” and “F”

Measured and cut the hose coming from the tee and installed to “E” on the solenoid.

This is the factory “F” hose that will be rotated and reused.

Here are all the connections laid out that will tie the solenoid to the rear of the BOV:

• Factory hose “F”
• 6mm coupler
• Cut section of 6mm hose
• Filter that transitions from 6mm to 4mm
• Supplied 4mm hose

Figured it would be easiest to make the connections before installing to the engine.

Attached the factory hose to “F” at the solenoid then routed the 4mm hose to the rear of the HKS BOV and cut the excess.

Zip tied the 4mm hose to this beefier hose. Just snug so not to pinch and restrict flow.

HKS BOV installed. All that remains is to reinstall the battery tray, battery, tower brace and intake, but won’t bore with those details.

 

[ImTheStatMan]

Random belated question. When installing the DEI fire wrap on the oil cooler lines, were you able to slide it on over the fittings or did you have to remove the fittings?

 

[fatherpain]

Swapped the HKS BOV insert to purple. Going to try this first. Pretty sure will prefer the whoosh sound over the higher pitched whistle.

To access the insert, it’s a simple matter of removing the (4) slightly raised Allen set screws at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.

Then the cover slides off.

The plastic insert sits in a slot and lifts out.

Purple, gold and original HKS inserts side by side. Feeling a bit jipped (and stoopid) for buying the gold. It appears identical to the original.

Purple insert dropped in.

And reinstalled.

 

[fatherpain]

Hey there ImTheStatMan, yes the DEI wraps were able to slide past the fittings, no issues.

In fact, when I first received the HKS oil cooler and saw these, almost threw them away thinking it was just packing material.

Am glad the previous owner, Mario_Kart purchased and included them. The DEI fire wrap is much more substantial than the included HKS insulation. Highly recommend adding it.

Random belated question. When installing the DEI fire wrap on the oil cooler lines, were you able to slide it on over the fittings or did you have to remove the fittings?

 

[saint365]

@fatherpain Did you try original bov before you changed to Purple?

 

[fatherpain]

Have an appointment tomorrow for the tires to be replaced, provided everything goes back together smoothly tonight.

Battery and tower bar are on...Have the airbox and Motec ECU left to install. Should go fairly fast.

Hopefully, will get a chance to hear the HKS BOV sound soon. The insert was easy to change, so will likely throw the original back in at some point to check it out

@fatherpain Did you try original bov before you changed to Purple?

 

[LURK-R]

Went ahead and installed the Voltex 2V. Was a simple process and took maybe 30 minutes.

There are (2) rubber bump stoppers to remove. Used a plastic interior trim tool. Each stopper had (3) plastic pins but were damaged when it came off. Not sure how to avoid doing so. The replacements are $30 each

Loving the detail in this thread. Would you happen to know the part number for this piece?

 

[fatherpain]

Thanks LURK-R, very cool you made it here

These are the parts you’ll need... A left and right.

Loving the detail in this thread. Would you happen to know the part number for this piece?

 

[LURK-R]

@fatherpain Thanks for the prompt reply. Luckily I was able to remove the panels like in the video.

 

[fatherpain]

Ouff, yes... Encountered the HKS BOV Eventuri fitment issue @saint365 mentioned. The black rubber bypass hose prevents the airbox from seating...Which is somewhat disappointing, as Evasive sells this as an Eventuri adapter kit.

To get around it, cut the EVS hose along the dotted line to push it further down for a little more space.

Which required the heated blade trick again.

Stayed conservative and cut this amount off, which worked (barely).

The shortened hose angled down just enough. Rotated the hose clamp to the back side so not to rub the airbox.

Eventuri airbox re-installed with the HKS BOV. Sits a smidge high on the left side. Might cut a little more off hose in the future, but for now, it’s ok

For me even with EVS bracket, it was still rubbing with eventuri so I ended up getting whole HKS setup. Can't wait to see your installation process..where I struggled installing mine lol

 

[oleverStar]

if this is not the most detailed and organized build thread I've ever seen I don't know what is... bravo! lots of useful info!

 

[fatherpain]

With the HKS BOV in place and a Dyno/E-Tune appointment set for Friday, went ahead with the Motec FK8 AU kit install which appeared to be straightforward.

In hindsight, should have test driven the car with just the HKS BOV to see if any issues before adding a 2nd variable, More on that later.

The Motec kit comes with some great instructions. Only tools needed are a 10mm socket, ratchet, extension, 10mm combo wrench, Allen wrench, needle nose, cutters and zip ties.

Removed the factory ECU cover.

Disconnected both harnesses.

Pushed the harnesses to the side. Factory ECU exposed.

Used the 10mm ratchet and extension to undo the (2) bolts securing the ECU here.

And here.

Used a needle nose to release this plastic clip holding the MAF wiring, here.

And here. ECU completely freed up and ready to come out.

Stock ECU removed.

 

[fatherpain]

Locate the primary O2 sensor on the DP. It’s recommended to install a new one prior to tuning.

And unplug it. There is a little plastic tab to depress for it to release.

Break the sensor free using a ratchet, extension and O2 sensor wrench.

Old O2 sensor removed. Release the other loose end from its’ post, by depressing another plastic tab.

Before setting the old sensor aside, this is the special clip that needs to be transferred to the new sensor, so it will attach to the post. Gently pry at the arrow with a small screwdriver and it will release.

Then snap it onto the new O2 sensor.

Thread the new O2 sensor onto the DP. The sensor comes with a calibrated amount of anti-seize already applied, so do not add any.

Tighten the sensor, but don’t over do it.

The factory Lamda harness will no longer be used. Probably not a bad idea to tape it up or find a plug for it.

The Motec Lamda connector will plug into the O2 sensor later, when it goes in.

The new Bosch 17025 O2 sensor was longer than the original, so looped it around and zip tied it.