Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

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fatherpain

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Whelp, got the car back together and was feeling pretty good about how things went. Found and fixed (3) vacuum leaks. Idle and emissions CEL problem solved, right?


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Wrong. Dagnabbit, the problem persists and immediately came back, pretty much within minutes of starting the car, grrr. Ah well, back to the drawing board..


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Still, today was a success, having eliminated possible cause #1 and fixing (3) leaks in the process. Will see if any info is on the web and ask my nephew, the Honda Tech, what the logical next step would be.

**update** found very small vacuum leaks at the intercooler connections. Changed some of the front hose clamps to t-bolt style and tightened the hoseclamps to engine. Problem solved :)



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Blue18SI

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Another thing you could check that’s fairly simple would be to see if there is any debris inside the MAF sensor. Wile I was a tech at Honda I had a few cars with this code and turns out it was a piece of grass, dead bug, debris inside the actual part of the MAF that measures the air. Causing the pcm to over compensate for the minuscule “blockage”. Not sure how accessible the MAF is with your beautiful Intake but just a thought. :thumbsup:
Just be careful when cleaning it. Airduster or you just blowing in it with your mouth is usually enough to dislodge anything in there.
 
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fatherpain

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Thank you for that Blue... Think I may have located the problem. While driving to work this morning, noticed it didn’t sound like I was getting the full exhaust note under boost (7+psi), as if maybe the Sequence Exhaust bypass valve wasn’t opening..

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Idle was going nuts. Bouncing consistently at 1.2k - 1.4k...


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Took a peek... and lo and behold... The vacuum line to the exhaust bypass valve must have overpressured and popped off as the testing was wrapping up, heh.


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Popped the line back on. Vacuum leak #4 fixed. Will look into securing it better so this doesn’t happen again.


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Fired it up and car is idling again @800 rpm. Connected the Autel and cleared the P0507 CEL.
Hopefully this takes care of the problem ;)

Another thing you could check that’s fairly simple would be to see if there is any debris inside the MAF sensor. Wile I was a tech at Honda I had a few cars with this code and turns out it was a piece of grass, dead bug, debris inside the actual part of the MAF that measures the air. Causing the pcm to over compensate for the minuscule “blockage”. Not sure how accessible the MAF is with your beautiful Intake but just a thought. :thumbsup:
Just be careful when cleaning it. Airduster or you just blowing in it with your mouth is usually enough to dislodge anything in there.
 
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fatherpain

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hmm so far so good. Took the car for a quick , semi spirited run. With all the vacuum leaks repaired, noticed boost level was reaching 22-24 psi and vacuum bouncing between -10 and -11.

Was not seeing these numbers prior to the testing and repairs ;)
 
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Great write-up! I'm also suffering from intermittent P0507, just started happening about a month ago. My last mod was the Sirimoto Flex Fuel kit, but that was installed way back in June. I visually checked the connections/hoses around the oil catch can as some mentioned that was a common vacuum leak source, but to no avail.
 
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Thank you...hope it helps. Be sure to also check the metal fittings attaching the hoses to the catch can. Thought I had all of them tight enough...Was very surprised one was leaking and it was a decent amount.


Great write-up! I'm also suffering from intermittent P0507, just started happening about a month ago. My last mod was the Sirimoto Flex Fuel kit, but that was installed way back in June. I visually checked the connections/hoses around the oil catch can as some mentioned that was a common vacuum leak source, but to no avail.
 

Topsportsman916

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Tom, great write up. Definitely enjoy your posts. You're making me jealous with all of your mods. Lol! ! I'll be doing my first real mod probably over Christmas shutdown. I ordered an AWE exhaust yesterday . I should have it in a week or two. The EZ lift should be a big help with this.
 
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***perform this mod at own risk***

For anyone that might have missed this, one really cool free performance mod is the “Perrin” ACT sensor mod. The good folks at Perrin noted oddities in their performance testing and determined the ACT sensor bulb was resting against its protective plastic housing and was reading the temperature of that housing and getting heat soaked instead of measuring the air charge temperature. To remedy this, they trimmed the center plastic post about 1/2 to 2/3 down to permit space for the sensor bulb to move to the center away from the housing and just read air temperature. The result is improved response and I believe Perrin posted seeing a 20 HP gain on their dyno, lol.

PERRIN’s original details and post here:

https://www.civicx.com/threads/mod-your-act-sensor-and-gain-hp.41988/


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The ACT sensor is located here. Requires removal of the red plastic engine cover which takes a 10mm socket. Probably a good idea to also disconnect the battery before doing this. Photo credit: PERRIN_Jeff


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Sideview of the ACT sensor location from the driver’s side.


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Here is a top down view of the ACT sensor. It is secured by (1) 10mm bolt and has an electrical connector to remove. Release the plastic tab on the rubber hose above it to gain access.


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Close up view


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Use a flat heat screwdriver to pop open the plastic holding clip.


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Now the hose can be moved out of the way so the (1) holding screw can be reached


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A 10mm socket and short extension works perfect.


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With the bolt removed the sensor comes right out. Pull off its’ electrical connector and it’s ready to mod


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Here is Perrin’s proposed mod. Photo credit: PERRIN_Jeff


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Close up top view. The round sensor tip is circled in green. The thin white circle surrounding it does not exist. It is Perrin’s marking. This is great photo showing how the sensor bulb is normally pressed against the plastic shroud.

The center rectangular post to be trimmed is marked in green.

Photo credit: PERRIN_Jeff


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This is the plastic rectangular post that needs to be trimmed. Ideal spot to cut is where it’s marked in green. It will allow the bulb to move away from the shroud, but the remaining post will still offer some protection to the wire legs. Think I read some have applied some epoxy or gardening silicone on these legs to reinforce them. I have not done so. Photo credit: PERRIN_Jeff


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Here is the sensor removed. It was much smaller than I anticipated.


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An exacto knife worked well to gently score the center post repeatedly until it cut through and was able to snap it off. Just take your time to avoid nicking the sensor legs.


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Here is what the sensor looks like with the rectangular post trimmed. Photo credit: PERRIN_Jeff.


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Wow, look how tiny and delicate the sensor bulb is. The tip of the exacto knife worked perfectly to gently move the tip of the sensor bulb to the center, where it is just reading air and not the plastic shroud when it gets heat soaked.


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Here is the new position of the sensor circled in green. Don’t worry if it’s not perfectly centered, as long as it’s no longer resting against the outer circlular shroud, it’s good to go. Be sure to wipe or clean off any residual oil on the tip as that will also affect the sensor’s performance.

All that remains is to reinstall the sensor, engine cover and battery connections, and take it for a test drive and enjoy improved response.

I am not tuned yet, so have no means of data logging to support this claim, other than my foot and butt dyno...which could be subject to the power of expectation.

That said, adding the Wagner intercooler resulted in a decent amount of turbo lag, which makes sense as it is massive in comparison to stock and I was a little disappointed...

I performed the “Perrin” ACT sensor mod a couple days later and it seemed like the car came back to life and was even more responsive than before the Wagner was installed, so I was elated.

Again, I currently have no way of proving this, but there is data posted in the Perrin thread and others have reported similar gains.

The nice thing about this mod is it is free, and if decide want to return to stock, a replacement sensor costs something like $50 and has a lead time of about 1 week. If the Type R is your only means of transportation, it may be a good idea to order an extra sensor and mod that one, then swap it in.


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Replacement sensor part#. Photo credit: PwrOfDreams


If the “Perrin” ACT sensor mod is not something you decide to do, it is still worthwhile to pull and clean oil from the sensor bulb periodically, to maintain performance.
 
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fatherpain

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Thank you Chris, hope you and your family had a great Thanksgiving sir.

The AWE looks like an excellent choice in exhausts. Watched the video clips they posted and it sounds amazing. It also looks great. Please share your experience with it after you get it installed.

An aftermarket exhaust was also the first performance mod I opted for. Love the R, but the stock exhaust note is a little too tame for a car that performs and looks the way it does imo, heh.

Beyond that for future ideas, I’d suggest a PCV oil catch can (Radium or Mishimoto) which aren’t too expensive for engine protection... then the Acuity Fully Adjustable Shifter and replacement shifter bushings. Completely altered the sensory driving experience for me. Such a fun mod.

Have not had the opportunity to try Hybrid’s shifter, so can’t comment, but sure it is also really good.

Tom, great write up. Definitely enjoy your posts. You're making me jealous with all of your mods. Lol! ! I'll be doing my first real mod probably over Christmas shutdown. I ordered an AWE exhaust yesterday . I should have it in a week or two. The EZ lift should be a big help with this.
 

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Thank you Chris, hope you and your family had a great Thanksgiving sir.

The AWE looks like an excellent choice in exhausts. Watched the video clips they posted and it sounds amazing. It also looks great. Please share your experience with it after you get it installed.

An aftermarket exhaust was also the first performance mod I opted for. Love the R, but the stock exhaust note is a little too tame for a car that performs and looks the way it does imo, heh.

Beyond that for future ideas, I’d suggest a PCV oil catch can (Radium or Mishimoto) which aren’t too expensive for engine protection... then the Acuity Fully Adjustable Shifter and replacement shifter bushings. Completely altered the sensory driving experience for me. Such a fun mod.

Have not had the opportunity to try Hybrid’s shifter, so can’t comment, but sure it is also really good.
Tom, I have been looking at either the catch can or shifter for my next upgrade. I was looking hard at the Hybrid shifter and the AWE exhaust. Decided to get the exhaust while it was on sale. AWE also worked with me on the shipping. Hope to get it installed while I'm out on Christmas shutdown.
 
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fatherpain

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Ah heh, great minds do think alike. Tim818 has the Acuity but just picked up the Hybrid, so may want to see his feedback on a side by side comparison before committing to a shifter. Which ever shifter you choose, suggest getting that company’s upgraded shifter bushings. Really can’t go wrong either way ;)

Tom, I have been looking at either the catch can or shifter for my next upgrade. I was looking hard at the Hybrid shifter and the AWE exhaust. Decided to get the exhaust while it was on sale. AWE also worked with me on the shipping. Hope to get it installed while I'm out on Christmas shutdown.
 
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fatherpain

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With Thanksgiving all done (my favorite holiday btw) finally had some time to install the Radium Coolant Expansion Tank that has been sitting on the shelf for a couple months. This is a pretty low priority mod on the off chance the plastic OEM tank were to crack and leak over time due to engine heat. In reality it’s just a bling mod and got it to pair with the Radium oil catch cans for OCD completeness.


Radium has some pretty good install instructions posted: http://data.radiumauto.com/PublicDocs/19-0197A.PDF


I went a little out of order and assembled the expansion tank first and installed the fittings. Won’t recap everything but will share some tips if anyone wishes to use them.


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There are a couple rubber O-rings in the kit. It is always good practice to apply O-ring lube to minimize cracking over time.


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The online instructions fail to mention installing this O-ring and drain plug on the underside of the tank...Though it’s common sense.


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A 8mm hex bit is needed to tighten.


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It’s also a good idea to use anti seize on all fasteners.


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First step was removing the engine mount brace.


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Engine mount brace removed. This will be reinstalled later.


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Removal of the OEM plastic coolant tank. Pulled the coolant hose and plugged it using a 1/4” extension like the instructions stated. Worked like a champ.



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Poured the coolant contents into a glass measuring cup.


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With the OEM coolant tank out of the way, then next step is to remove both of these brackets. They will not be re-used.


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A 10mm combo wrench was the only tool that could reach the holding bolt on the side bracket. Could not get a socket in there.


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Removing the OEM support brackets took patience and slender fingers. Anyone possessing burly man hands may have difficulty getting these out.


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Installing the expansion tank also took patience and nimble fingers to get the bolts started.


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Then tighten a little a time using a 10mm combo.


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The other side was easier to install. Note the round fitting with the overflow pointed to the right. I didn’t like that configuration so rotated it one position so the overflow pointed to the left.


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For the few folks that may be adding this coolant tank with the Radium CCV oil catch can already installed, disconnecting both catch can fittings will provide space to remove the old coolant hose and install the new one. Used a paper towel to avoid marring the finish on the fittings.


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CCV hoses spread. Plenty of room to work now.


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Routed the new coolant hose this way. Pointed the spring clamp away from the CCV catch can hoses to avoid cutting them.


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Poured back coolant captured with the glass measuring cup. No funnel needed.


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Rotated the overflow vent fitting to the left, so any hot coolant discharge could be directed away from anything that could potentially be damaged. There is nothing where the hose is routed on the left. Radium’s instructions call for it to be pointed to the right.


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Radium Coolant Expansion Tank installed and looking great. A little disappointed the kit priced at $310 did not come with a Radium cap. Probably will order one. However I do like the quality of the tank and the level indicator is a nice touch.
 
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fatherpain

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Here are the weird messages that pop up after reconnecting your battery and starting the car if the battery has been totally disconnected. Totally freaked me out the first time it happened. Fortunately Boosted180sx let me know to drive the car a little bit then stop and restart the car and the error messages will clear... and it does ;)

Unfortunately, still seeing the intermittent high RPM spikes at idle. Will recheck for boost leaks one more time. If that doesn’t fix it then will consult my nephew to see if his cpu can pinpoint the problem and start replacing suspect components.

***update*** found very small leaks on the intercooler connections. Tightened the hose clamps and idle issue was resolved***
 
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