Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

turbociv910

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The BOV could just be recirculated into the TIP - there is absolutely no downside to this, not like the HKS isn't loud anyways even fully recirculated. Recirc helps with transient response, it's the first thing I hate when driving a VTA car.
You're right, it does help, but Motec au is the only package that maintains the bov(and evap) solenoid operation. The bov won't open unless it meets programmed settings, similar to oem operation. But no negative effects since it will no longer use the maf for fueling calculations.🤙🏻

Fatherpain, the motec package is setup for speed density out of the box! You Can remove your maf like I did or keep it for datalogging.. the maf is calibrated so it will give you a true reading on air mass and turbo inlet temp





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fatherpain

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That is excellent Taylor, thank you for letting me know... Was unaware that is how it comes. All I knew was Motec was needed for the HKS BOV 😂

In that case, will try to tackle the Motec and HKS BOV next week.... Provided I survive Sunday’s return trip to Big Willow.
(Went off last time @95 mph on turn 2) :doh:

Apologies in advance, Taylor, if start spamming Motec related questions to your inbox. :bow:


Fatherpain, the motec package is setup for speed density out of the box! You Can remove your maf like I did or keep it for datalogging.. the maf is calibrated so it will give you a true reading on air mass and turbo inlet temp
 

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if this is not the most detailed and organized build thread I've ever seen I don't know what is... bravo! lots of useful info!
 
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fatherpain

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Huge thank you to Cory and C&R Racing for
getting a revised C&R/HKS replacement core in time for my next track day, just as they said. :headbang:

Won’t post a full install, as it’s the reverse of the removal which can be found here. If needed just scroll back.
;)

Instead, will share what was done to overcome some unexpected roadblocks, which made what should have been a (1) hour re-install into a (5) hour trial and error problem solving session. :bonk:.

But my inner OCD weirdo, jones for these situations... Especially when able to successful figure it out. Modding is a hobby after all :cool:

Please know this is not a criticism of C&R Racing. Their customer service has been stellar and this upgrade isn’t a mass produced item. Imagine it’s more of a fan service for a handful of hardcore Type R track drivers, so I am grateful this is even available. :bow:

Have found it’s not uncommon to need to make adjustments to get performance parts to fit the OEM locations. The C&R Racing HKS oil cooler replacement core was no different.


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To refresh, the first issue encountered were the end brackets where too wide and wouldn’t fit the HKS hardware, so C&R had me send it back.


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(1) week later, received a revised core, with brackets resized.


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Yes yes yes!! Core now fits the channel perfectly. :thumbsup:


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Thought it would be easy work after that... but ran into some weird fitment issues affecting these (3) connection points.

If any (2) lined up, the 3rd would be off. :banghead:


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Didn’t initially realize there was still a fitment issue and the first attempt resulted in the nutsert/rivnut cross threading. :doh:
Ran to Home Depot for a M6 tap and was able to save the threads. :headbang:


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Once it became apparent something was off, began the tedious process of uninstalling and reinstalling the core, bolts and all, to see where the hang up was.:what:


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Unsure why this top bracket was so out of whack...This was the closest I could get it to line up. 🥺

Didn’t have the luxury of time, to compare it with the original HKS core... Was in “GIT ER DONE MODE!” :flame:

Briefly considered cutting the vertical tab and asking a buddy to weld it back in the right location...Oh gawd.


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Instead, went with the “KISS” mantra... Keep it simple stupid! Pulled off the silver bracket instead, switched to longer M6x30mm bolts and added (6) washers to the bottom and (5) to the top to act as spacers.


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With the bracket pushed outwards, the tab now lined up. Brilliant! :yes:


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Was a little tricky to get these connections started... but patience and finesse paid off. Don’t forget there is a spacer washer on the backside of the lowest bolt that is circled.

The (2) bottom arrows are pointing to the rear bracket. Tried to fit the last (2) bolts but it wouldn’t go...


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Crawled under and looked up. A-ha! You rat bastard!


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For some odd reason, the backside of the core brackets and the HKS hardware had a little bit of mismatch. Reached up and marked it with a sharpie.


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This is the amount on the core that needed to be trimmed. Much easier to adjust soft aluminum on the C&R than SST on the HKS. Smarter not harder ;)


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A coarse round hand file worked well to enlarge the holes.


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Here is that backside C&R core bracket adjustment that did the trick.


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Heyyy now, brown cow!! Everything all lined up and secured! Don't forget the aluminum conical seals for each AN-10 fitting :p


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Wrapped up just past midnight. A big relief it’s in. More so, since I’m working all day Saturday... Leaving just enough time to refill the oil, slap the front bumper on, torque the last wheel, wash, then test drive the car and pack my gear for Big Willow Sunday.

The C&R Racing HKS replacement core is likely the final cooling mod for this car. The weather forecast for Rosamond is 85F and Big Willow is a high speed track so don’t anticipate any heat issues, whatsoever.

The ultimate test will be on a hot day when the car is finally tuned. Confident this core will provide the extra margin needed.
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Had a fun track day again at Big Willow. Alfa Romeo Club of Southern California put on a nice event, which included some classroom time. Even though it was my 3rd time on this track, still a novice of sorts and the instructor shared all kinds of wisdom how to attack the course and maintain speed:
  • Don’t worry about lap times
  • Focus on driving smooth
  • Focus on shifting smooth
  • Focus on braking smooth
  • Everything smooth!!
  • And here are the lines and apex’s to take.
Me: Sir yes sir!!! Got it boss!! :bow:


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Endowed with this track wisdom, proceeded to confidently go out... and have a couple scary, “Whoa, sure did that wrong” moments. Fortunately the RE71R tires grip never failed and I didn’t go off.

This of course, reminded me of “Iron” MIke Tyson’s famous quote above. :rolleyes:


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Fortunately, was able to settle in for the 2nd session and posted a personal best 1:38 in the intermediate/novice group. Passed lots of cars, so moved to the advanced group.

Thought I drove smoother and faster there for the 3rd session @1pm... but was surprised and a little disappointed my lap times dropped to the 1:41-1:42 range... though the RE71R’s began to feel greasy. :dunno:


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This was the condition of the RE71R’s at the beginning of the day.


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Same tire after (3) 15 lap sessions. Having driven them to the cords, my day was done, with (1) session remaining. :confused:

Will need to purchase a new set of tires and will try Yokohama A052’s next. Have heard they offer better track grip and last a bit longer.

Each session lasted (30) minutes. Good for (15) straight laps of hard fun driving, so didn’t come away disappointed. Was able to complete all (3) sessions with no issues.

Temperature gauge never moved off the normal reading and didn’t run the heater. Ambient temps reached a high of 83F and the Big Willow is a really fast track.

Believe the recent cooling mods are an improvement and looking to coming back Oct 31st to drive Streets of Willow :thumbsup:
 
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fatherpain

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Thank you RBrackett. My first (2) track days were at Big Willow and didn’t think much about it at first. Was interesting returning after a couple outings on the lower speed, turn heavy, canyon carving-like Streets of Willow.

The higher speed at Big Willow adds a significant element of APF (A-hole pucker factor), especially on turns 1, 3 and 9 (for me at least). :rolleyes:

Approached turn (1) at around 130mph then braked late and dropped speed down to 80-90mph.

Went into turn (3) around 105mph then dropped to 65mph and experienced understeer where had to let off the accelerator to let the traction catch up. Not sure I’m doing that portion of the track correctly.

Turn (9) is tricky, because the track goes from a smooth curve on (8) at about 115-120mph to a shaper turn on (9) at about 90
mph. Felt I took this fairly well all day.

Current brake setup is Girodisc front and OEM rear rotors. Girodisc SS street pads for the front and Gyrodisc Magic for the rear. Brake fluid is Motul RBF-660.

Was braking hardest on the 3rd and last session. Afterwards, noticed the driver’s side front rim had some rubber smoke rising, but couldn’t pinpoint where it was coming from. Tire was shredded pretty well. Will know to bring the car in s There was some slight indication of brake fluid leaking from the bleeder valve, but it had cooked off.

All in all, the brakes are confidence inspiring. Held speed longer than normal and the brakes did their job well. It’s scary heading into a sharp turn at 130mph hoping the brakes will slow you down enough not to understeer and fly straight off the track. :oops:

Anticipate fresh brake pads will be needed soon.

May consider Gyrodisc track pads at some point for increased stopping power, though they are noisier and will wear the rotors down quicker.


Glad you had a fun and safe track day!
How'd the brakes hold up?
 
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fatherpain

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Kefi yes. Moving at a turtle’s pace, but will attempt the Motec ECU install this week, time permitting.


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The FK8 AU kit comes with detailed step by step instructions, so should be pretty straight forward.

Reached out to Ben @Salasko Racing today. Verified I had everything needed and he confirmed availability to link this weekend to review and tweak the canned Motec tune. Once that’s done, will look into renting a dyno for Ben to remote tune the car.

@turbociv910 recommended Salasko Racing for the remote tune and it’s been great so far. Ben has been very responsive and patient answerIng questions whether email or over the phone.:thumbsup:

Of course, this time table is dependent on the HKS BOV and Motec being on the car, and new tires for when the car is on rollers.

Goal is to have this done by the next track day Oct 31st @Willow Springs

what was this I heard about a motec? :headbang:
 
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With a track day approaching, it was time to remove the center caps and switch back to hub centric rings... Also needed to bleed the brakes... Til now, have been doing the (2) person method, where someone needs to press the brake pedal while the other guy bleeds and refills the brake reservoir... What a pain.


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Have been looking for a good option to accomplish this task alone... Enter the “Speedi-Bleed“ pressure brake bleeder kit :bow:

Comes fully assembled with a brake system C900 adapter cap, fill bottle, regulator, an air fill line, tubing in between and a plastic storage box.

https://www.speedibleed.com/

The link has a nice video demonstrating it in use... And convinced me to give it a try.


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The cap adapter twists on in place of the OEM brake fill cap. Really like that it clears the J’s Racing strut bar with no issues. :headbang:


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Removed the cap from the fill bottle, which dropped in perfectly beside the ECU.


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Poured in (1) bottle of brake fluid.


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Then twisted the cap back on tightly. The fill bottle has a minimum level marked that needs to be maintained. (1) bottle of brake fluid put it well above that.


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Removed a cap from (1) of the tires to provide air pressure to power the Speedi-bleed.


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Connected this end of the Speedi-bleed to the tire, per instructions.


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set the regulator to 10-15 psi per the instructions.


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Removed the rubber bleeder caps and connected an old water bottle with clear tubing through the cap. Bled each brake in this sequence:

Driver side rear
Passenger side rear
Driver side front outer then inner
Passenger side front outer then inner

Tools needed:
10mm and 11mm flare nut wrenches
10mm combo wrench
Paper towels for any spills


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The Speedi-bleed maintained a uninterrupted supply of brake fluid throughout the bleeding process. Made sure to check the fill bottle towards the end to make sure it was still above the minimum.

Bled all (4) brakes in a matter of minutes. The tire supplying the air pressure dropped maybe 1 PSI.

Disconnected the Speedi-bleed and returned everything back to normal.

Wow. Very impressed with this brilliant tool. The Speedi-bleed is a game changer, how easy it makes brake bleeding, which until now, I didn’t like doing.


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As an added bonus, It stores nicely in the provided case, ready for next time. It will also bleed the clutch. Highly recommended :cool:
How much air did you lose in the tire with the process? Really neat man! I've never bled my brakes on any car and have dreaded trying it.
 
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fatherpain

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Hey there Napalm,
I’d say about 1 psi is lost from the tire that supplies the Speedibleed with pressure. Can also use a spare tire ;)

The Speedibleed makes the process super easy, highly recommend it. :)

How much air did you lose in the tire with the process? Really neat man! I've never bled my brakes on any car and have dreaded trying it.
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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KYRGYZ, thank you, really appreciate the positive feedback. Welcome, glad you found us.

It’s been about (1) year since this build thread began. Didn’t know much about modding or working on cars at the start.

However the Type R has become a hobby...as has writing and sharing about what’s been encountered along the way..

OCD kicked in after a post or two, and here we are (38) pages later 😂


if this is not the most detailed and organized build thread I've ever seen I don't know what is... bravo! lots of useful info!
 
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fatherpain

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The HKS BOV (blow off valve)... Probably wouldn’t be a stretch to describe this as the single most divisive mod available for the FK8/Type R platform.

There has been numerous back and forth here on CivicX and elsewhere about potential damage running this on MAF tuned cars, as opposed to safely running it on speed density with MoTeC.

The sole purpose of the HKS BOV is to make cool whoosh noises. To my knowledge there are no performance gains to be had.

Still, I’ve wanted one ever since I’ve had the car. My good buddy boosted180sx can attest to this. And while there are plenty of folks rocking these with no apparent issues, I’ve held off until now to install simultaneously with MoTeC.

This is what is included in the SSQV HKS BOV Kit.

As I am running an Eventuri intake, the parts circled in purple will not be used. They are incompatible with the airbox.

Instead they will be replaced with the Evasive Motorsports Eventuri adapter kit In blue.

Evasive Motorsports posted a really good install video:


But for some reason, the narration stops at about the 16 minute mark where I needed it most :doh:
 
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turbociv910

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There has been numerous back and forth here on CivicX and elsewhere about potential damage running this on MAF tuned cars, as opposed to safely running it on speed density with MoTeC.
Cant wait to hear it!! Once i hear yours, ill be running to do the same. The stock recirc valve on the EFR turbo is pretty quiet, even with the intake.

Off Topic, but what ramps do you use?
 
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fatherpain

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Hey there Taylor, yes looking forward to getting the HKS BOV installed.

Started last night and am halfway through it. The next several posts will cover it along with some remedial topics like pulling the battery and airbox, needed to reach it.

The lift I’m using is the EZ Carlift. Screw jack based, made in USA. Has operated flawlessly and despite its appearance, is solid as a rock. Did a complete write up on it here if interested. :)


Cant wait to hear it!! Once i hear yours, ill be running to do the same. The stock recirc valve on the EFR turbo is pretty quiet, even with the intake.

Off Topic, but what ramps do you use?
 

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