Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

turbociv910

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  • Install C&R core to HKS oil cooler
  • Install JRZ coilovers
  • Install RV6 suspension bits
  • Install HKS BOV
  • Install Motec
  • Buy a laptop
  • Get a tune
I approve of all the above!! Cant wait to read your posts!



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Jimmyjambo_fk8

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This post deserves two thumbs up. This will definitely be something, that I use and refer to for help.

On a side note.....We're very similar in that, I have a 1999 Toyota 4Runner which was used for the same purpose. I've had several Honda's along the way, as 2nd vehicle. My CTR isn't a daily, nor a track car. I just plan on keeping it forever, enjoy it for it's fun.

Thanks again for this info/link.

-Jimmy
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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This may be the final time my car is at stock height (or not) .. gearing up to install coilovers among some other suspension upgrades. 😋

Have some reservations about proceeding, however.. Car handles fantastic in stock form and don’t know what the effect of suspension mods will be. Never have had a coilovers or a lowered car for that matter.


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Remember reading a post about people adding the wrong component and ruining the drive ability of the car.

Messing with the OEM suspension...Especially one dialed in like the Type R, seems to have potential to become another “one mod too many” horror story :oops:

Was apprehensive about tackling the JRZ coilover mod, as have never installed a set of coilovers before... but then again, what the hell... why stop now? Have never have done any of this stuff before the Type R and have been ok so far (with patience and some much appreciated help along the way, of course) 😜

Was having difficulty understanding the JRZ instructions, as either:
  • It’s vaguely worded (to me)
  • Or intended for experienced installers (not me)
  • I’m a simp (bingo!)
As such, have been watching YouTube videos (mildly helpful), looking at other brand coilover instructions (helpful), messaging a JRZ owner from a local Type R meet (extremely helpful) and reached out to JRZ USA rep Chris Villasenor (super helpful)


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Going through the motions of installing the JRZ coilovers, however not 100% sure if will proceed at this moment or hold off and wait.

Measured the OEM left and right front wheel center to fender height = 14 inches


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The OEM left and right rear wheel center to fender height also was 14 inches.


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Additional reasons for hesitation:
  1. Need a nitrogen tank and this gauge/filler tool to refill the remote reservoirs. This tool would ship from the Netherlands, so might take awhile to arrive.
  2. A couple track buddies are wanting to do 10/11/20 Big Willow and 10/31/20 Streets of Willow...Which drastically cuts my window to perform this mod.
  3. Learned JRZ coilovers need to be removed and serviced by a JRZ authorized service center every (6) track events or 12k miles. Guessing this would be around $500 + shipping to and from, if there isn’t a center within driving distance. This means in addition to the high price tag, they will also be expensive to maintain annually 😭
  4. A track buddy suggests staying on the stock suspension for now and work on my driving skills as I’m nowhere close to hitting the current limits of the car and likely don’t have the track experience to fully appreciate the benefit of running the JRZs.
  5. Still researching what is entirely involved in the install and making preparations so it will go as smoothly as possible.

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JRZ coilovers front and rear with extended remote reservoirs and quick disconnects. Spring rate is 600F and 650R


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A buddy fabricated (2) of these nifty aluminum L brackets, that attach to Rennscot remote reservoir mounts.

These brackets will eventually be welded to the J’s Racing aluminum tower brace in the engine bay and secure the front JRZ coilover remote reservoir canisters. :thumbsup:


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Removed the wheels and raised the car. Regardless of whether the coils go on now or not, still need the wheels off to check brake rotors and pads. The downside of having nice wheel lugs, is need to remove them and install manually so not to mar the finish. No impact gun to make it quick and easy. After removing the wheels, I was basically done for the night. :rolleyes:


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Checked the thickness of the Gyrodisc front rotors which have seen approximately 20k miles and (5) track days. Plenty left at 31.95mm. The range is 32mm (new) to 30mm (replace). Additionally, the cooling vanes are also a telltale. When they are gone, it’s time for a new set of $600 rings. Fortunately it doesn’t look like that will be for a long time, unless switch to a more aggressive track pad. Really like the Gyrodisc SS street pads so doubtful will make the switch unless go all out for track use. The purple hat is reuseable.


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Rear original stock rotors measured 10.57mm. The Range is 11mm (new) to 9mm (replace) this is after 37k miles. I drive with VSA OFF.


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SoCal has cooled down significantly from the heatwave we experienced a couple weeks back. The ash from the wildfires also has gone away, so going to take advantage of the nice weather and work on the car outdoors. ;)
 
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Dave B

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At the risk of being a "Debbie Downer", the JRZ shocks will likely make the street experience less enjoyable and will likely not make the track experience more enjoyable until you are significantly more experienced. They will help get those last few tenths out of a lap but at this stage I would think improving your driving experience will get you seconds, not just tenths.

Personally I have driven competitively for over 20 years and still have lots to learn on some of the tracks I know very well. Out of the 4 drivers in our Champcar, there is always at least one driver faster than I am, so I obviously need to improve my driving skills quite significantly. Making small changes to the car can be helpful in remarkable ways but Honda has done such an excellent job with the basic CTR that the benefits of big changes may only be seen by expert drivers.
 

'19Sport6Man

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GREAT thread!

Just followed your example and replaced the amber front side markers with the Revi Motorwerks Depo blacked out ones off Amazon - thanks!
 

turbociv910

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I will make a suggestion. when i used to set up cars, i measure from the bottom lip of the rim to the fender bottom it takes the tire squish out of the equation and the measurements are all the same for 4 corners when trying to level the car.
 
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fatherpain

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Dave B thank you, greatly value your words of wisdom... which mirrors advice I received from a track buddy when discussing the upgrade with him. Makes a ton of sense :bow:

Likely will hold off installing the coilovers for now and continue to learn and enjoy the car on stock suspension... but will continue to investigate how to perform the install when (if?) my skills improve enough it warrants the switch.

[email protected] gushed about how good these coilovers are though, so it’s tempting to throw them on... And while he’s in sales/support, I’ve already taken the plunge so there was no need to push a sale. Instead, Chris spent over an hour answering questions and saying how impressive their coils are and how happy I’ll be when they are on. :oops:

Will also request a ride-along with the local FK8 owner that has JRZ’s to get a preview of what the suspension feels on the street.

Always drive in “R” mode so a stiffer ride shouldn’t bother me much.. but it would be good to know exactly how it would be. It is also tempting for the aesthetics, heh.

Will be continuing my driver mod:

10/11/20 @Big Willow
10/31/20 @Streets of Willow
11/21/20 @Chuckwalla

:drive:


At the risk of being a "Debbie Downer", the JRZ shocks will likely make the street experience less enjoyable and will likely not make the track experience more enjoyable............Honda has done such an excellent job with the basic CTR that the benefits of big changes may only be seen by expert drivers.
 
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fatherpain

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Thank you Taylor for the tip. Much appreciated sir. For clarification, which distance measurement are you referring to... red or blue? Did I mark the points correctly?


I will make a suggestion. when i used to set up cars, i measure from the bottom lip of the rim to the fender bottom it takes the tire squish out of the equation and the measurements are all the same for 4 corners when trying to level the car.
 

turbociv910

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6204F0A6-30A7-4080-8A02-DF959EB8C2E7.jpeg

Thank you Taylor for the tip. Much appreciated sir. For clarification, which distance measurement are you referring to... red or blue? Did I mark the points correctly?
I always did the bottom lip because it is a solid attachment on the tape measure, the top is also ok.. just maintain center line of the wheel with tape when measuring and youre good!
 
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fatherpain

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Thank you Jimmyjambo_fk8 for the props. Appreciate it and always nice to know this thread may be useful for others working on their Type Rs.

My memory is borderline craptastic :doh: so having a thread to record what has been done to car invaluable. Probably also the reason I’m still married... Don’t hold grudges for things I’ve forgotten :thumbsup:

It’s nice to have the information all in one place to quickly refer back to...which reminds me, I oughta print a hard copy to keep in a binder in the event this site ever goes away.

530+ posts are a lot to sift through, so my good pal Boosted180sx showed me how to create a working table of contents that has clickable hotlinks to each topic, which can be found at the bottom of the first post. Game changer :bow:


This post deserves two thumbs up. This will definitely be something, that I use and refer to for help.

On a side note.....We're very similar in that, I have a 1999 Toyota 4Runner which was used for the same purpose. I've had several Honda's along the way, as 2nd vehicle. My CTR isn't a daily, nor a track car. I just plan on keeping it forever, enjoy it for it's fun.

Thanks again for this info/link.

-Jimmy
I
 

circuit.heart

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JRZ's are definitely a win-some lose-some proposition - I had an order for a set in 2018 and later canceled it due to the lag time of getting parts/support. They are amazing coilovers when set up correctly for the track, if you are not going to do much street driving where the wear and tear just isn't worth it.

How much front camber were you able to get from the car prior to this install?
 
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fatherpain

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Hey there circuit.heart, yes, the need to service the JRZ’s every (6) events or 12k miles (per the instructions) is probably the biggest reason I am hesitant to install them at this time.

The idea of having to pull them off once a year for service that probably isn’t cheap and may involve shipping if there isn’t an authorized JRZ center in SoCal is not appealing... especially if I’m not driver ready to take advantage of them at the track.

Hopefully I’ll be there at some point. Have (3) track days between now and November so that will put me at (8) events since starting in February.

Currently on stock suspension and ride height. Factory alignment, no camber I’m aware of. Would probably benefit from a proper alignment for the track.


JRZ's are definitely a win-some lose-some proposition - I had an order for a set in 2018 and later canceled it due to the lag time of getting parts/support. They are amazing coilovers when set up correctly for the track, if you are not going to do much street driving where the wear and tear just isn't worth it.

How much front camber were you able to get from the car prior to this install?
 

circuit.heart

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The idea of having to pull them off once a year for service that probably isn’t cheap and may involve shipping if there isn’t an authorized JRZ center in SoCal is not appealing...

Currently on stock suspension and ride height. Factory alignment, no camber I’m aware of. Would probably benefit from a proper alignment for the track.
I think there is a JRZ servicer in SoCal, would have to ask my buddy at Counterspace Garage for you. I know I wouldn't have placed the order in the first place if they couldn't be serviced quickly, I just don't remember where 😅

I've seen people do some awesome times on stock struts, Swift springs, front camber plates and some kind of rear sway bar upgrade. The stock R dampers are pretty freaking good from what I can tell - you just need lots of front camber.
 
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fatherpain

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With the JRZ coilover install on hold for the time being, turned towards the C&R Racing core upgrade for the HKS oil cooler.


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Turned the wheel towards the right to get maximum room to access the oil cooler.


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Undid the plastic clips from the wheel well and pulled back the plastic to expose the backside of the HKS oil cooler.


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Disconnected the battery, just in case.


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Removed the skid plate and drained the oil pan using the Fumoto drain valve. So quick, clean and easy.


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Cracked open the oil fill cap and pulled the front bumper while waiting for the oil to drain.


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Removing the oil filter without spills is always a challenge. A trick is to wrap a ziplock plastic bag around the filter while unscrewing so all oil is caught.

Note the port on the sandwich plate just below the bronze thingamajig. That is where an oil temperature or pressure sensor could connect to.. Definitely would like to add both at some point.


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With the oil filter out of the way, the oil cooler hose connections were easily accessible.


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Figured it would be a good idea to break the lines at the sandwich plate and drain, rather than deal with it at the oil cooler itself. Shoved some paper towels to absorb any spilt oil. Didn’t want to saturate and ruin the DEI insulation wraps.


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Draining was a breeze. Bent each hose down over the catch pan.


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Then moved to the cooler itself and broke the connections there.


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Voila! No oil. Was a good idea to drain both lines at the sandwich plate :thumbsup:


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Each AN fitting connector had these aluminum conical seals. These are reusable. Thought they had to be replaced. More on that later. :rolleyes1:
 
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fatherpain

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Time to remove the core. Removed the (4) nuts and bolts at this end using 10mm socket and combination wrench.


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Removed the nuts underneath this end.


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Undid these bolts


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Removed these (2) bolts holding this bracket. Had to finesse the top one so not to damage the upper one with the electrical grounds or whatever those are.


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And removed fasteners back here.


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Lifted this bracket up and out. Can see the gold nutsert that was installed.


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Removed these small screws across the top of the ducting using a small allen socket underneath and a crescent up top to back it up.


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Removed the upper retaining bracket.


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Then carefully lifted the core out to avoid spilling the oil still inside.


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Had the catch pan positioned to dump the oil into.


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HKS oil cooler core removed! :headbang:
 

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