Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

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fatherpain

fatherpain

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HomieGohan, yes, please consider doing a build thread, that would be awesome stuff man. Your car looks great, would love to see it :thumbsup:

This thread started with a couple mods and no idea how it would be received. One post led to another and here we are. Documenting build progress has turned into a hobby in itself and has proven useful to refer back to.

The Aerocatch latches look really good on your car. Have been considering them, but worried they may not be compatible with the J’s/ICB “snorkel bump”


I need to take more detailed pictures or simply create my "Build Journal" and stop being intimidated of creating one... Anyway, here's my custom hood - we installed Aerocatch, took it to the track and there was no rattling. Regardless I love the look of the Aerocatch hood pins. We didn't install the OEM latch in the center so my hood is just relying on the hood pins but I feel safe about the install.

Aliens!! Hell yeah!! My wife won't sit and watch it with me ):





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fatherpain

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Hey there Fit2Hatch,

Have a track day on 8/22/20 at Streets of Willow, which is a low speed, turn heavy road course.

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Looks like it will be smoking hot out there in Rosamond, but looks like it's trending down and might cool off to 102F if I’m lucky. Higher if not. Will likely drive intermediate group, as it’s my 2nd time @SOW.

Unfortunately, I don’t have the means to monitor temperatures yet, so cannot provide meaningful feedback on the Acuity hoses. Acuity claims a 4 degree temperature drop, which may not sound much by itself...but every little bit helps.

Current cooling mods are:
  • Acuity reverse flow silicone hoses
  • PWR race radiator
  • J’s Racing vented hood
  • J’s Racing grill
  • HKS oil cooler
  • Wagner FMIC
Looking forward to seeing how it performs at the track in blistering heat and will report back :drive:

  • Adjust the Acuity reverse flow radiator hoses for proper air gap. Visited my buddy boosted180sx and he noticed the hoses were touching. Not sure how that happened... Could have sworn the fitment was correct :dunno:
Do you see significant change using the reverse flow radiator hoses?
 
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fatherpain

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Despite staying on top of maintenance items and keeping the exterior nice and washed... I’ve rarely taken time to clean the interior. :drool:

Bad habits from driving cars I don’t care about carried over to my type R.

Picked up numerous sodas at the drive thru (Coca Cola) and had them dribble onto the drivers seat due to being full.

The resulting stains are so embarrassing. Looks like I sharted in my seat...or need to invest in diapers. It’s totally ridiculous.


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Now that I’ve restored my 96 Honda and my wife’s 2004 RAV4.... The Type R’s interior is the dirtiest of the cars we own. A thorough cleaning of the interior (and maintaining it afterwards) is on the list of things to do.

First up, gonna tackle the seat stains with some Sonax alcantara/upholstery cleaner, a soft brush, microfiber towels, Tannin stain remover and some water. **be sure to read application instructions.. Tannin dilutes to 20:1


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Sprayed some foam directly on the seat. This may have been a little too much. Instructions said to apply evenly.


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Used the brush to gently work the Sonax into the seat, then let it sit for 5-10 minutes per the instructions.


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Then used a couple microfiber towels to gently wipe the seat and sop up the dirt.


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Could see the funk transferring to the towels. Kept wiping the soiled areas with the clean sides. When the towels stopped picking up, moistened them with clean water and did a final wipe down. Didn’t use the Tannin stain remover.


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This is the area freshly cleaned. Looks much better. Might hit it once more if it still looks dirty once it dries out. Going to go through the entire car and vacuum real well, so will take good bit of time :rolleyes:
 
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iLovePho

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Nice, I need to do the same with my front seats as well. Haven't really cleaned it that much but I am noticing that it's darker/not as vibrant as new.
 
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fatherpain

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Thanks iLovePho, it takes a bit of elbow grease.. but most of it did come off. Might try some of the Tannin if come across any pesky spots, but it will need to be diluted 20:1. Almost blew it and applied it full concentration which probably would have ate a hole in the seat :oops:. Good thing I took time to read the instructions, heh.

Have never been a fan of cloth seats. A real shame Honda didn’t provide a leather upgrade option :(


Nice, I need to do the same with my front seats as well. Haven't really cleaned it that much but I am noticing that it's darker/not as vibrant as new.
 
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fatherpain

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Some track day organizers require a fire extinguisher and it’s a good idea to have one in general.

Picked up the Bracketeer fire extinguisher holder and an H3R no residue extinguisher from Amazon.


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Was hoping it would go under the driver or passenger seat... however the Bracketeer can only be installed behind the passenger seat on the R...which is disappointing.


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Removed the plastic covers on both rails by popping out these plastic tabs.


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These covers will no longer be used, so set them aside.


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This is what the Bracketeer comes with the Bracketeer. A main bar, (2) brackets (Left) that connect the bar to the seat rails and (2) tabs (middle) that connect the extinguisher supplied mount to the bar.

Bracketeer has a nice install video that was helpful:




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Threaded the supplied set screws into each seat rail bracket. Attached the double sided tape to the inside portion of the outer wall, however it wasn’t needed for the spot the Bracketeer was installed.


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Test fit the main bar and seat rail brackets.


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The seat rails have this convenient cut out where the side brackets fit perfectly. This is why tape wasn’t required. Snugged up the set screw on both ends to keep it in place. Slide the main bar all the way towards the driver’s side (blue arrow). Used the (2) left holes to obtain maximum travel.


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Applied blue Loctite to the threads. Placed a paper towel underneath to catch any drips.


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Tightened the (2) locking screws on the left and (2) on the right (not shown).


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Attached the H3R extinguisher mount to the (2) Bracketeer support tabs with supplied machine screws (yellow). To obtain maximum clearance from the floor, set the support tabs on top of the main bracket, then installed (2) screws from underneath (blue).


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Rather than fight it from underneath.... removed the entire assembly, tightened the tabs then reinstalled it. Smarter not harder ;)


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Verified all Bracketeer and H3R extinguisher mounting hardware tightened and ready.


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Bracketeer and H3R fire extinguisher installed. Extinguisher has (2) metal straps that secure it in place.


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Foot space in the with extinguisher installed. I’m a size 9 shoe. Will keep an Allen wrench in the glovebox in case the bracket needs to be removed if more room is needed, or if the front seat needs to be pushed all the way back for a taller passenger.


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Behind the rear seat is a good location though... Can turn, reach and unlatch the extinguisher from the driver’s seat position with minimal effort.
 
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HustedDrums

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Very inspiring. I hope to own one some day. Trying to limit the mods on the Si to save up money for the R.
 
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fatherpain

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  • #475
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Ordered (2) sets of these windshield washer nozzles and tubings to mechanically complete the J’s Racing vented hood install.


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Fished each nozzle and tubing in through the hood.


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Couldn’t get the nozzles to press in by hand, so used a pair of needle nosed pliers to squeeze the clips to get them started.


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Then they snapped right in. Bought new nozzles because it would have been a major pain to attempt to remove the old ones.


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New nozzles and tubing in place. Just need the connecting tubing


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Retrieved the missing tubing section from the OEM hood.


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One retaining clip opened easily, but (3) needed to be cut open :(


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Tubing ready to transfer to the new hood...In hindsight, probably should have just bought these pieces also.


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Connected the tubing to the windshield fluid source and the (2) nozzles.


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Finally, secured the tubing to the provided clip holders.

Windshield washer function restored :)
 
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fatherpain

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With a track day approaching, it was time to remove the center caps and switch back to hub centric rings... Also needed to bleed the brakes... Til now, have been doing the (2) person method, where someone needs to press the brake pedal while the other guy bleeds and refills the brake reservoir... What a pain.


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Have been looking for a good option to accomplish this task alone... Enter the “Speedi-Bleed“ pressure brake bleeder kit :bow:

Comes fully assembled with a brake system C900 adapter cap, fill bottle, regulator, an air fill line, tubing in between and a plastic storage box.

https://www.speedibleed.com/

The link has a nice video demonstrating it in use... And convinced me to give it a try.


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The cap adapter twists on in place of the OEM brake fill cap. Really like that it clears the J’s Racing strut bar with no issues. :headbang:


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Removed the cap from the fill bottle, which dropped in perfectly beside the ECU.


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Poured in (1) bottle of brake fluid.


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Then twisted the cap back on tightly. The fill bottle has a minimum level marked that needs to be maintained. (1) bottle of brake fluid put it well above that.


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Removed a cap from (1) of the tires to provide air pressure to power the Speedi-bleed.


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Connected this end of the Speedi-bleed to the tire, per instructions.


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set the regulator to 10-15 psi per the instructions.


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Removed the rubber bleeder caps and connected an old water bottle with clear tubing through the cap. Bled each brake in this sequence:

Driver side rear
Passenger side rear
Driver side front outer then inner
Passenger side front outer then inner

Tools needed:
10mm and 11mm flare nut wrenches
10mm combo wrench
Paper towels for any spills


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The Speedi-bleed maintained a uninterrupted supply of brake fluid throughout the bleeding process. Made sure to check the fill bottle towards the end to make sure it was still above the minimum.

Bled all (4) brakes in a matter of minutes. The tire supplying the air pressure dropped maybe 1 PSI.

Disconnected the Speedi-bleed and returned everything back to normal.

Wow. Very impressed with this brilliant tool. The Speedi-bleed is a game changer, how easy it makes brake bleeding, which until now, I didn’t like doing.


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As an added bonus, It stores nicely in the provided case, ready for next time. It will also bleed the clutch. Highly recommended :cool:
 
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fatherpain

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Heh Ryota, you are still overdue for a transmission fluid change! Bring it by and we’ll knock them both out brother :thumbsup:

Soooo I need my brakes bled. When will you do mine ;)
 

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